






■WITH, 





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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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OFTHE 

GLOBE. 

ILLUSTRATED 

PENaS» B PEHCIL, 

INCLUDING 

EXPERIENCES, SIGHTS fiND IMPRESSIONS 

OF 

MEN AND THINGS, 

THROUGHOUT 

Gverxf §tate in the U nion > 

AND 

Twenty Different Countries, 

WITH AN INTRODUCTION 

By Rev. J. H. VINCENT, D.D., LLD. 



COPYRIGHTED 1887, BY PHILIP PHILLIPS. 

ALL RIGHTS SECURED. 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE PHILLIPS PUBLISHING CO. 

BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK. 



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DEDICATION. 

S^a .<!>. — -&— "4» ^ 



©0 fflY lOlFE, 

-*< ^Hu© • ip. • psirripg,]^- 

WHOSE CONSISTENT LIFE, TIMELY COUNSELS, UNSELFISH SPIRIT, UNWAVERING DEVOTION, 

AND AFFECTIONATE COMPANIONSHIP HAVE EVER MADE MY LIFE 

AS A SUMMER MORNING AT HOME. 



So uhe Sender Memories of 

CQy GliDest Son, @Iames, 

(now deceased,) 

WHOSE BOYISH CURIOSITY, FILIAL LOVE, AMBITION, AND READY SERVICES IN THE 

LONG JOURNEY CONDUCED TO ITS COURAGE BY THE WAY; 

AND 



So CQy yoUKGEST Son, Philip, 

NAMESAKE, AND PET OF THE PARTY, WHOSE CHILD-LIKE WAYS, WHOSE SONGS AND 

CRIES WERE ALIKE MUSIC TO US ALL, WHO SO OFTEN PUZZLED US IN THE BREAKING DAWN, BY 

ASKING, "PAPA, MAMMA, WHERE ARE WE NOW?" WHOSE PRATTLE AND 

PLAY GAVE US THE REAL HOME FEELING ABROAD. 




--^^^^^^^ 



PREFACE. 



Gentle reader, when you open 
Oft the pages of this volume, 
Full we trust 'twill be of interest, 
As a summer day of sunshine, 
Full of pleasure and instruction 
As the ocean is of billows. 
It will take you on a journey, 
On a rare and wondrous journey, 
From the shores of Columbia 
And the cities of New England, 
To the vast and great Niagara, 
Roaring loud and roaring louder, 
Till your ears are filled with thunder ; 
It will take you to the south land, 
View the cotton-fields and negroes, 
View the marvelous plantations, 
And the great Palmetto swamp lands ; 
It will take you to the wheat-fields, 
Through the rolling, verdant prairies; 
It will traverse to yon mountains — 
Mountains great and highlands mighty, 
Gardens wonderful 'twill show you, 
Many a deep and wooded valley, 
Many a fall of "Laughing Water;" 
And from off the shores of Freedom 
It will take you o'er the ocean — 
O'er the mild and calm Pacific, 
To the island land Australia, 
Through its gullies filled with fern-trees, 
Through its gold-fields and its cities, 
It will lead you ever onward 
Where the spicy breezes linger, 
Where the Devil-dancers worship; 
In Ceylon's all beauteous island, 
Where the temples of Benares 
Border on the sacred river, 

Dclaivare, Ohio, April 10, 1 887. 



Where the Taj-Tomb most majestic 

Fills the looker-on with wonder, 

It will take you in its journeys. 

Then from India's land of idols 

It will lead you up to Egypt, 

It will climb the lofty Pyramids, 

And will view the Nile on flowing ; 

Into Palestine 'twill bring you, 

Where the Savior lived and suffered, 

Glorious land of gospel history. 

Then to Italy, land of painters, 

Land of architects and sculptors ; 

And to France and mighty Paris, 

Past the vineyards all about you, 

It will onward take its journey, 

It will climb the Alpine glacier, 

It will sail the Rhine historic, 

It will view the dykes of Holland 

And old Briton's wondrous country. 

Think you then this trip worth taking? 

Would you see these marvels mighty, 

View the strange and curious customs ? 

If you would, then scan these pages, 

Give them thought and deep attention, 

And perhaps with pen and pencil 

I may paint the moaning forest, 

Paint the sad and heaving ocean, 

Paint the mountains high and hoary, 

And the rivers deep and mighty. 

With these kindly words of promise, 

Gentle reader, now I leave you, 

And I trust will make the pleasure 

Of the seeing and the viewing 

Of these wondrous scenes and marvels 

Yours, as much as books can make them. 

Philip Phillips, Jr. 



-t* INTRODUCTION. 






BY REV. J. H. VINCENT, D.D., LL.D. 

?BW)f"^ T T few words are necessary in introducing this volume to the "wide, wide world" 
||§J|: of general readers, and especially to that large part of it made up of persons who 
-IF '" have listened to the songs of the singer himself, Mr. Philip Phillips, a world- 

Twide traveler, who has compassed the globe, reaching, perhaps, a larger number of 
hearers than any other religious singer of our day. 

There is a realm of classic music in which success has been sought and achieved 
by gifted and ambitious singers. They have subjected their vocal powers to the severest 
training, under the great masters of voice-culture on two continents. They have been able 
to perform vocal feats rivaling in boldness and wonder the achievements of the athlete. They 
have studied for immediate effect. They have sought human applause, and have won it. 
The triumphs of a single concert have compensated them for years of patient toil and frequent 
failure. Amidst the ringing plaudits of enthusiastic auditors, they find reward for persist- 
ency, fatigue, expense, and patient waiting. 

Art, in its highest forms, is to be glorified. Art may indeed be of man, but jnan is of 
God; and true art is but the evolution, through human purpose, energy, and skill of the di- 
vine conception and ideal. It is legitimate and praiseworthy to seek the highest attainments 
in whatever line of life one has a peculiar aptitude, and to which he is by natural endow- 
ment called; for thus man may glorify his Creator. 

Men sometimes achieve success in specialties of thought and labor without protracted 
preparatory training. Native taste and tact sometimes produce the most delicate and power- 
ful effects of high art. This is true in oratory as in music. John Summerfield, without the 
training of the schools, held the multitudes who thronged to hear him, spell-bound by his 
matchless eloquence. An Everett might well have coveted the magnetic power and peculiar 
grace of that young Methodist orator. 

Bailey says in "Festus" that "love is the art of hearts, and the heart of arts." The 
burning eloquence of Summerfield, while resulting from natural power, was also dependent 
largely upon the intensity of the divine love which dwelt within him. 

Many of the early preachers of Methodism in England and in the far West and South 
of our own country, derived their success from this twofold endowment — inborn tact and 
divine impulse. Some of the finest oratory ever heard on this continent has been of this 
natural sort — developed entirely outside of the schools. 

In music we discover the same law. Culture exalts mediocrity. An ordinary voice well 
trained gives pleasure by its clearness, accuracy, and the perfect control in which it is held. 

(v) 



INTRODUCTION. 



Where genius enjoys culture the largest results are secured ; and where genius and a certain 
divine inspiration are combined — the inspiration of tender, genuine love — we find, even where 
culture may be lacking, the success already mentioned. 

The modern religious awakenings on both sides of the Atlantic, as well as the enthusiasm 
enkindled during our civil war, now happily lying in quite a remote past, were largely at- 
tributable to the power of song — the song of the individual singer or of great choruses or 
the thunder of song from the enraptured multitudes. Mr. Moody owes a large part of his 
success to Mr. Sankey. It is doubtful whether he could ever, by any powers which he pos- 
sesses, have achieved a tithe of his success but for the musical inspirations excited by his com- 
peer, and the immense choirs which he had the wise policy to organize. Among the human 
instrumentalities which God has so abundantly blessed in this great revival movement, the 
principal one is the inartistic, uncultivated, fervent singing of Sankey and his associates. In 
the honors to be awarded in the future by a grateful Republic, the writers and singers of 
our most popular war songs will receive a share of the glory once bestowed so lavishly — and 
none too lavishly — upon the war president and his successful generals. The old " Glory, glory, 
hallelujah ! " " Your mission," " Tramp, tramp, tramp," and others of our patriotic songs stirred 
the hearts of the people to their very depths, and rallied the masses of the people round the 
banner of the nation. 

In this department of naturally-endowed and inspired singing we must place the subject 
of the present volume. In the war time and its revival services, at Sunday-school conven- 
tions and elsewhere he has been a great blessing to the church and the nation. Untrained 
in the schools, as indifferent to the laws of high art in vocal performance as was John Sum- 
merfield, to the mere theory of elocution, Mr. Phillips has, perhaps, done more than any 
man of his time for the promotion of congregational singing in the churches — the kindling 
of fervor in public conventions. He has been criticised by foe and friend, but he has gone 
steadily forward singing his simple melodies, publishing books, crossing continents and oceans, 
and inciting many a heart to renewed consecration and holy service. 

From personal knowledge of Mr. Phlliips for more than twenty years, from intimate 
association with him in Sunday-school and church work, from long weeks of travel in his 
company on both sides of the continent, I am glad to be able to pay this willing tribute to 
his genuineness as a man, his earnestness, fidelity, and conscientiousness as a Christian, 
his simplicity and effectiveness as a singer for the cause of humanity and Christ. 



ipte* 




OUND the WORLD 



WllTH 



J)e^ei®iphi\/e ?k §oq^ 



flND 



-# Gem • Solos 






BY 



PHILIP PHILLIPS. 



(vii) 





Chapter I. — New York. 



HO will grudge me a moment to linger in contemplation of such a city? If I af- 
firm New York to be the finest city in the world, no American will dispute with 
i[p me, and no foreigner would wish to dim the native ardor of my pride. But I 
shall not say that; for I have visited the hundred mighty cities of the East, and 
have learned to know that no one city can claim pre-eminence in everything, and 
that each' has something which gives it a prior claim to fame. If New York has its 
Fifth Avenue and Central Park, it has not the romantic history of a thousand years 
which makes every stone of some older cities a monument of greatness passed away. 
But though I have walked the fashionable boulevards of Paris, the busy avenues of Berlin, 
and the densely populated thoroughfares of London, I know I shall be forgiven by my friends 
in each, if I give preference for my home city, New York. Before proceeding with New 
York, let me just say a word or two about myself, in order that both my book and work 
may be better understood. 

In starting upon my new departure, three objects impressed themselves upon me as the 
aim of my efforts, and I will here name them in the order of their importance : 
First, — To cheer and uplift Christians by the sweet Bible promises; 

Second, — To lure the erring or indifferent to Christ, by the charm of lofty sentiment and 
pleasing melody ; and, 

Third, — To provide an honest living for myself and family, in such a way as to be able 
to aid many Christian enterprises, without being a burden to any organization for my expenses. 
With these objects in my heart, I have continued singing until now. 

New York, as most people know, was originally a Dutch settlement; after which it came 
into the possession of the English, who gave the city its name, in honor of the Duke of York, 
to whom, at that time, it belonged. Two hundred years, however, have passed away since 
then, and little remains to perpetuate the story of its origin. 

Of my especial work in New York, 1 will give two illustrations, showing bright and dark 
sides of New York life. The first of these was the occasion of my singing at the anniversary 
of the Christian Commission, in the New York Academy of Music. I shall never forget the 
trepidation with which I anticipated this effort. The audience, I knew, would be a most 
brilliant one, and, to a great extent, it was an experiment to attempt their entertainment by 
simple gospel songs. The elite of the metropolis were present — an assemblage of over three 
thousand persons ; but soon the responses from the audience reassured me, and I felt that I 
was safe. The sentiments uttered in song found answers in many hearts, and the applause 
was frequent and hearty. Even the New York press ventured, on the following day, to speak 
in approving terms of this "new departure" in sacred song. The New York Tribune re- 
marked: "Since the days of the Wesleys there has probably been no man who has been so 
popular as a leader and singer of sacred song as Mr. Phillips." 

But to my other illustration: That which, to my own soul, is the most satisfactory work 

91 



NEW YORK. 



I have ever done, was singing in the slums of New York, in connection with Rev. William 
Booles' and Jerry McCauly's mission. Water Street is well known as one of the vilest quar- 
ters in New York. Here at this time, a plain mission-room stood, while a small band of 
noble workers were laboring to save the fallen. One Sunday evening the little mission hall 
was crowded with Magdalenes and others of the most vicious characters of the Fourth Ward. 
I was to sing for this strange audience. 

At the time for opening exercises, the famous Kit Burns, a notorious and desperate char- 
acter at that time, heading a band of about thirty "roughs," marched up the aisle and took 
a position immediately in front of me. 

I feared we should have trouble with him before the evening was over ; but, trusting in 
God, began the services as usual. For a time all went well. Kit and his companions list- 
ened with marked attention through several songs. Then some one called out from the door : 
"Kit, you're wanted." Rising at once in his seat, Kit sent back the ready answer: "Tell 

'em to go to ." Not noticing the interruption, I went on singing of Jesus and his love. 

Again the rough shouted from the door: "Kit, you're wanted outside." This time the burly 
leader stood up, and in his hoarse voice called back : ' ' Tell 'em this is the first Jesus meetin' 
I've ever been at, and I shall stay till it's out." This seemed to settle the matter, and we 
had no more trouble from outside. During the evening I gave a short exhortation, pleading 
with the unconverted to come to Christ, and begin a better life. So close was the crowd 
as they sat around me, that I could hear some of the women say: "We will do better! 
Yes, we will!" No doubt they were sincere in these promises; but only God and the poor 
chained soul can fully understand the galling bondage of habit. Many a woman there would 
weep with remorseful emotion over the tender allusions to "little baby fingers," and all the 
motherhood in her be aroused to pledge itself for her own darlings ; yet, when to-morrow- 
came, the bad associations drew so powerfully that the old neglect and sin went on. While 
I sang "Scatter seeds of kindness," it all seemed quite possible; but the to-morrow's test too 
often found them unequal to it. Sin had left its mark of irresolution upon them. Only by 
sovereign grace can such poor, weakened souls be held to a better purpose and life. 




TERRACE, CENTRAL PARK. 

A few days after this, one of the women who attended the meeting on this Sunday even- 
ing, was found drunk on the street. The Matron of the Mission, seeing her condition, man- 
aged to get her into the mission-room, that she might be saved from the idle gaze of the 
crowd until she came to herself. For some time she lay in a drunken stupor on the floor, 
and then the influence of her dram began to pass off. Raising herself on her elbow, she looked 
around, and, thinking she was in the "Tombs" or "lock-up," thus began to soliloquize: 
"Now, I'll have to stay here thirty days" — that being the penalty for drunkenness on the 
street — "my business will all go to sticks! I know the policeman, d — n him! When I get 
out I'll show him;" but just here, looking about more closely, she perceived her mistake, 
and muttered: "I ain't in the Tombs after all. Where am I?" Then, after a moment: 
"Oh, I'm in that place where they scatter seeds of kindness." She remembered the song 



new YORK. 



of the previous Sunday night. The Matron, overhearing her words, came to her and said : 
"Yes, I found you on the sidewalk, drunk, and I knew the policeman would soon get you 
into the Tombs ; so I brought you in here to rest. Now, won't you come with me, and 
have a good wash and a cup of tea?" "Oh, I am too dirty," was her reply, as she sur- 
veyed her bedraggled clothing and soiled hands. "No, come; it will do you good," still 
argued her new friend; and, by her winning kindness, the poor woman was persuaded to 
go in, wash herself, and have a cup of the good Matron's tea. While the abashed woman 
sat there, a few earnest Christians dropped in, and a short prayer-meeting ensued, in which 
she was hopefully converted to God. She held fast her profession of faith; and, after three 
months, died in the triumphs of the gospel. 




ELEVATED RAILROAD. 



Since singing at the Academy of Music, I have given upwards of two hundred evenings 
of song in New York City, besides conducting the music at numerous religious gatherings. 

New York is a very cosmopolitan city. There is about it all the busy aspect which has 
often been described. The Broadway is frequently dangerously crowded with traffic. Fifth 
Avenue is the finest fashionable street in America, and one of the handsomest in the world. 
Here the cream of New York society live, and the evidences of wealth on every hand are 
apparent. 

Central Park, however, is the greatest boast of New Yorkers, and they have reason to 
be proud of it. The ornamental gardening is one of the chief features, and it aids to make the 
park not only attractive but picturesque. Pleasure boats of various sizes are seen upon the 
numerous lakes in the summer time, and with their little flags and the awnings of the larger 
boats help to make a pretty and effective sight. From here we will take the Elevated Rail- 
road, or L road, as the railway is called. This is a novelty which no other city in the world 
presents. The line now almost encircles the city, the rails being on a level with the second 
floor windows of the houses and places of business, and in some streets higher than this. 



NEW YORK. 



The fare for any distance is five cents, and it is said that over 300,000 ride daily in these 
cars. Leaving the elevated at the Battery, we make our way to the harbor to get a glimpse 
of the colossal statue of Liberty erected on Bedloe's Island. 

This new wonder of the world is the largest statue ever produced. Liberty's torch 
towers three hundred and five feet six inches above the waters of the bay. The conception 
and execution of this vast work are due to the great French sculptor, M. Bartholdi, who 
devoted to it eight years of his life and most of his fortune, and whose generous impulses 
prompted him to make such a gift to the United States. 

From here we proceed to the Suspension Bridge over the East River from New York 
to the Brooklyn side. • 




BROOKLYN BRIDCE. 



This is a gigantic piece of engineering, and the largest suspension bridge in the world. 
The whole length of the bridge is five thousand nine hundred and eighty-nine feet. Its width 
is eighty-five feet, which includes a promenade for foot passengers, two railroad tracks on which 
run passenger cable cars, and roadways for vehicles. It usually takes about twenty minutes 
to pass over on foot to Brooklyn, the third largest city in the United States. The commer- 
cial growth of the city during the past forty years is a wonder even of American progress. 
The warehouses here comprise the largest granaries in the world. The main business thor- 
oughfare is Fulton Street, while Clinton Avenue is the handsomest street in the city, being 
embowered with trees and lined with fine residences, surrounded by ornamental grounds. 
Greenwood Cemetery should also be visited, being one of the finest burial places on the globe. 
Costly monuments abound on every hand, and, aided by rising ground, with lakes and shady 
groves, a very picturesque scene is made up. Brooklyn is said to be a city of churches. 
Here are the Tabernacle of Dr. Tallmage and the Plymouth Church of the late Henry 
Ward Beecher, both of which should be visited. 



Chapter II. — Up the Hudson. 

IKE the pebble thrown into the lake, which shows its influence by the ever-widen- 
ing circles, so I, proceeding to widen the area of my operations, re -cross the 
suspension bridge and proceed on my way up the beautiful Hudson, where may 
be seen some of the most charming scenery in America, stopping at Yonkers, a 
populous suburban town situated on villa-crowned slopes, and also at Tarry town, where 
Washington Irving resided. This name, he says, was given in former times by the 
housewives of the neighboring country in consequence of the inveterate propensity of 
their husbands to linger about the village taverns on market-days. Sing Sing, the 
State prison, is also near here. 

The next place of interest is Peekskill, and after leaving here the highlands of the Hud- 
son are entered. These present a continual change of rich scenery. 

West Point comes next. Here is the Military Academy, one of the first of its kind in 
America. The cadets' parade, morning and evening, is quite a sight. 

My next stop was at Newburg, a beautifully-situated city, and the scene of many inter- 
esting events during the Revolution. On the bluffs below it were Washington's headquarters, 
and other reminders are present of the struggle of a hundred years ago. 




UP THE HUDSON. 



13 



Fifteen miles further up on the east bank of the river is Poughkeepsie, built on an elevated 
plain, having several fine churches and no less than eight important educational institutions, 
including Vassar College, one of the leading female colleges of the world. The buildings 
occupy a commanding site, and are modeled after the Tuilleries. The college stands on its 
own grounds, which cover some two hundred acres. After leaving Poughkeepsie, the Catskill 
Mountains, which can be seen for a very long distance from the river, begin now to assume 
a nobler aspect, and form a striking background to the beautiful scenery stretched from them 
to the river side. 




VASSAR COLLEGE ON THE Ht'DSON. 



Catskill Station is the landing place for the mountains, and for those who desire to remain 
for a time in this delightful spot. Here there are always stage coaches waiting, which will 
convey the tourists through Sleepy Hollow, where Rip Van Winkel is fabled to have had his 
long, deep sleep. The journey from Catskill to Albany can either be performed by the boat 
or by rail. Albany is the State's capital; it is also known as the Knickerbocker city of 
America. It is very picturesquely situated, and contains many features of interest, among 
which may be mentioned the New State Capitol, with one exception the most splendid edifice 
in America. 

Troy is only eight miles from Albany, with a choice of reaching it by street car, omnibus 
or railway. 

Glen Falls and Saratoga Springs are well deserving of a visit. The latter is one of the 
most famous places of summer resort in the United States, and is frequented by Americans 
from all sections, and by foreign tourists from all parts of Europe. Another agreeable resort 
is Mount McGregor, lying one thousand feet higher than the Springs, where the late General 
Grant was taken during his sickness, and where he breathed his last. We now take rail for 
Utica, a handsome manufacturing city noted for its great State Lunatic Asylum. Leaving 
Utica, the train passes on to Rome, a flourishing city with several fine buildings, of which 
the handsomest is the seminary, thence to Auburn, the famous prison city, where the crim- 
inals of the western half of the State are confined. Syracuse is the next important city on 
the line of the road. It is famous for its salt springs, the most extensive in America. Next 
comes Rochester, the metropolis of central New York, where years before, in a large hall, 
at the age of eighteen, I made my debut as a singer. My next engagement was at Buffalo, 
the immense wheat granary of the lower lakes. Among the public and prominent buildings 
the following may be named: St. Paul's Cathedral (Episcopal), the State Arsenal, the State 
Armory, the General Hospital, Court House, and City Hall, St. Joseph's (Roman Catholic) 
Cathedral, and the State Asylum for the Insane, which the Buffalonites claim to be the largest 
in the States, if not in the world. The next point of interest is one which deserves a new 
chapter. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 




Chapter III. — Niagara Falls. 

@|0 write a comprehensive description 
of the Falls of Niagara is a task 
far beyond the power of pen. Many 
writers have essayed to give a de- 
scription of Niagara, but the best at- 
tempts have given but a mere idea 
of its stupendous might, its chang- 
ing color, its tremendous 
•j|? rush, its never-ceasing roar. 
The State of New York, 
on July 15, 1885, purchased 
-s'-- the land about the Falls, and 
opened it free to the world, 
and now no toll-gates con- 
front the tourists. 

The first place visited is 
generally Prospect Park,' as 
it is nearest the Falls. The 
grounds are kept in a neat 
and tidy condition, and the 
Reservation Police are ever 
on the alert to see that the 
regulations are enforced. 
Leaving the Park, the next 
point of interest is Goat Isl- 
and. From it may 
be obtained a fine 
-^.-r. view of the Amer- 

ican and Horse 
:,-- Shoe Falls. The 

v Cave of the Winds 

is also entered 
=. '."- from this island. 

The morning is 
.." the best time to 

visit Goat Island, 
as the sun is at 
your back, throw- 
ing a magnificent 
light on the scen- 
ery. It is a very 
general, but a 
true expression 
with regard to the 
Falls, that the im- 
pression on first 
glancing at them 
is one of keen 
disappointment. 
Simply a hasty 
glance does not, 
however, realize 
Niagara. It is 
requisite to stand 
there and drink in 
the scene gradual- 
ly, and then the 
first feeling of dis- 



CANADIAN PRO\ 'JNCES. 



'5 



appointment disappears, and gives place to an indescribable sensation ot awe at its grandeur. 
It is one of those things which must be seen and studied to be appreciated. An honest 
Hibernian, while he gazed upon it, being asked if it was not the most wonderful thing that 
he, had ever seen, replied: ''Never a bit, never a bit. Shure, it's no wonder at all that the 
water should fall down there, for I would like to know what could hinder it; but it's mighty 
quare. though, I'm thinking, how the mischief it ever got up." 

From Niagara we will make a brief visit to the Dominion of Canada. The examination 
of baggage as we cross the Canadian frontier is very rigid, and visitors will do well to in- 
clude only such articles as are strictly of necessary personal use. 

Canada is chiefly an agricultural country. It is practically an independent state, though 
it holds allegiance to the British Crown. Our first halt is at Hamilton, the Queen City 
of Canada, with its wealth of churches, colleges, and schools, abounding in the highest Chris- 
tian intelligence and culture. While here I visited the Branch Children's Home, originated 
by Rev. T. Bowman Stephenson, of London, heard the little ones sing sweet hymns of praise, 
and gave them a word of kind encouragement. 

I next visited Toronto, the capital of the province of Ontario. It is situated on a beau- 
tiful bay. The streets are regular, and, in general, well paved. "Toronto" means, in the 
language of the 
North American 
Indians, "the place 
of meeting." There 
are many commer- 
cial buildings of 
interest in the lead- 
ing thoroughfares 
of King and Yonge 
streets, while the 
beautiful Queens 
College and park 
are approached by 
one of the stateliest 
tree-lined avenues 
in the world. 
Some of the pret- 
tiest churches and 
chapels in the en- 
tire Dominion are 
to be found in To- 
ronto. Dr. Pun- 
shon's church, of 
which an engrav- 
ing is given, is a 
very handsome 
building. The 
Normal and Model 
schools, the Educa- 
tional Museum, 

Trinity College, General Hospital, and Crystal Palace are all objects of interest. The distance 
from Toronto to Montreal is three hundred and thirty-three miles by Grand Trunk Railway, 
or the whole distance can be made by steamer on Lake Ontario and River St. Lawrence, 
if the visitor has inclination and time, and the sail is a most enjoyable one. Montreal is 
the commercial metropolis of British North America, situated on an island of the St. Law- 
rence River. The houses are built of a grayish limestone from adjacent quarries, and with 
its tall spires and glittering roofs and domes, and the beautiful villas that stud its lofty back- 
ground, the city presents as picturesque a panorama as is to be seen on the entire continent. 
While here I found myself nicely and comfortably quartered as the guest of James S. Matthew- 
son, the great tea merchant, in a home which, though luxurious, is rendered doubly pleasant 
by the piety of its inmates. My services here commenced at the great St. James Street 
Church, where I was greeted by a large audience, which included the eloquent Dr. Morley 
Punshon. The next morning witnessed the opening of the Wesleyan Missionary Anniversary 
for a session of several days, at which Dr. O. H. Tiffany. Dr. Punshon, Dr. Douglass, and 




ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



16 



DOCTOR PUNSHON'S CHURCH. 






DR. I'L'NSHON S CHURCH. 



CANADIAN PROVINCES. 



»7 



Dr. Sutherland were the principal speakers, whose addresses I interspersed with Gospel songs. 
It was a season of great spiritual and intellectual Christian enjoyment, at which 1 sang for 
the first time some lines written for me by Dr. Punshon, and for which I had composed a 
new tune. As Dr. Punshon has since gone to his rest, it may be of interest to give the 
words he wrote for me on that occasion : 

THE PILGRIM'S MISSION. 



Listen ! the Master beseecheth, 

Calling each one by his name, 
His voice to each loving heart reacheth, 

Its cheerfulest service to claim. 
Go where the vineyard demandeth 

Vine-dresser's nurture and care ; 
Or go where the white harvest standeth, 

The joy oi the reaper to share. 

Work for the good that is nighest; 

Dream not of greatness afar; 
That glory is ever the highest 

Which shines upon men as they are. 
Work, though the world would defeat you ; 

Heed not its slander and scorn ; 
Nor weary till angels shall greet you 

With smiles through the gates of the morn. 



Work, though the enemies' laughter 

Over the valleys may sweep ; 
For God's patient workers hereafter 

Shall laugh when the enemies weep. 
Ever on Jesus reliant, 

Press on your chivalrous way; 
The mightiest Philistine giant 

His Davids are chartered to slay. 

Offer thy life on the altar: 

In the high purpose be strong, 
And if the tired spirit should falter, 

Then sweeten thy labor with song. 
What if the poor heart complaineth? 

Soon shall its wailing be o'er ; 
For there, in the rest that remaineth, 

It shall grieve and be weary no more. 



From Montreal I journeyed to St. John's, New Brunswick, the largest city in the province, 
situated on the St. John's River, at the point of its entrance into the Bay of Fundy. Here, 
owing to the good management of my friends, I was most successful. Proceeding thence to 
Halifax, the principal city and capital of Nova Scotia, situated on an inlet of the extreme 
south-eastern coast of the Atlantic Ocean, the principal naval and commercial station of the 
North American colonies, I gave my first service in the Brunswick Wesleyan Church, and 
met with equal success. I also received a hearty welcome at Pictou, Truro, Moncton, Wind- 
sor, Fredericton, Woodstock, and as far down as Charlottestown, the beautiful capital of Prince 
Edward's Island. 

The station of the Direct Cable Company, in Nova Scotia, situated at Webber's Cove, 
Torbay, one hundred and twenty miles east of Halifax, consists of a cable-house for testing 
purposes, two large houses in which are provided office accommodation for the telegraphic 
business, and comfortable quarters for the staff, stabling, boat-house, etc., and, notwithstanding 
the minor inconveniences, inseparable from comparative isolation — the nearest town being 
twenty-two miles away — is a pleasant place of abode. 

The system of land-lines and cables, four thousand three hundred miles in length, over 
which pass all messages sent "Via Direct" between London and New York, is entirely con- 
trolled by the Direct Company, and the employes are in its service. Telegrams from and for 
places beyond New York are collected and distributed by the Atlantic and Pacific and the 
Dominion Telegraph Companies, with which the Direct Company has special working arrange- 
ments. 

The cables are laid in two sections, between Ballinskelligs Bay, Ireland, and Torbay, 
Nova Scotia, and Torbay and Rye Beach, New Hampshire; the lengths of those sections 
being two thousand seven hundred and ninety miles, and six hundred and fifty miles, re- 
spectively. 

We must now go on to Quebec, the oldest and, after Montreal, the most important city 
in British North America. Quebec has been called the "Gibraltar of America," on account 
of the extensive fortifications of the "citadel," which occupy some forty acres, and are con- 
sidered to be impregnable. Dufferin Terrace here is an unequalled promenade, the outlook 
is one of the finest in the world, and is of itself worth a trip to Quebec. From the city 
several interesting excursions may be made. The Isle of Orleans, by ferry-boat, the Falls 
of Montmorenci, is only eight miles distant. 

Even a brief visit to the Dominion would, of course, be very incomplete if Ottawa, the 
seat of government, and where the Governor-General resides, were not seen. 

Ottawa is one of the most picturesque and attractive cities in Canada. Its public build- 
ings are particularly fine, while elegant private residences are numerous ; but it is the enchant- 
ing scenery of the locality which charms visitors. The Parliamentary Buildings includes the 



!8 LAKE SUPERIOR DISTRICT. 



Main Blocks, Departmental Blocks, and the Dominion Library. The Senate and Commons 
Chamber, where legislation is effected, are located in the main building, while in the Eastern 
Block is the Patent Office, where there are some twelve thousand models of inventions pat- 
ented, a museum of wonders in itself. Upon Parliament Hill the Supreme Court Building is 
located, and from the Hill a magnificent view can be obtained of the surrounding country, 
which is unexcelled for beauty and picturesqueness. The cost of the Government Buildings 
was some five million dollars. The large saw-mills of the Chaudiere are a source of much 
interest to the sight-seer. Nearly five hundred million feet of lumber are produced annually 
by the mills of this locality. Several of them are now lighted by electricity, and it is quite 
novel to see the men at work at night under the electric light. The Chandiere Falls should 
also be visited, as they have been placed second only to Niagara Falls in point of grandeur 
and beauty. 

After visiting Kingston and London (the latter city being laid out after the plan of its 
great namesake, having also its river Thames, and many streets named after those so famous 
in the mother-land), we pass over into Michigan, halting at Detriot, its principal city. This 
great central metropolis, with a population of one hundred thousand people, is of great com- 
mercial importance, being charmingly situated on the Detroit River, the great water avenue 
connecting the north-western lakes of Michigan, Huron, and Superior with that of Erie; and 
thence, by the Welland Canal, with Ontario, the St. Lawrence, and the Atlantic seaboard. 

I next visited Ann Arbor, situated on the Huron River, where my service was well at- 
tended and gave great satisfaction, being given almost within the shadow of the structures 
of the State University. Adrian, a young and rising city, was the next point reached. Here 
is the home of my old friend Major Cole, and his cheerful presence greatly helped me. 
Thence I proceeded to Jackson, where I sang in the Methodist Episcopal Church, being in- 
troduced to my large audience by Rev. J. S.. Smart, D. D., whose Christian worth and man- 
liness of character make him much more than an ordinary doctor of divinity. 

Lansing, the capital of the State, situated at the confluence of Grand and Cedar rivers, 
and Saginaw City, were the scenes of my next services, both being young cities of wonderful 
growth. I sang two evenings in the latter, in aid of the Methodist Church, which was then 
largely in debt, both services proving very successful under the management of Rev. Dr. J. 
H. McCarthy. While this excellent minister and his wife were listening to my songs, thieves 
entered the parsonage, stripping it of several hundred dollars' worth of clothing and furniture. 
But the misfortune was not long grieved over, for these good people had laid up their price- 
less treasures "where neither moth nor rust doth corrupt, and where thieves do not break 
through nor steal." 

I next gave services at Grand Rapids and Grand Haven, both places of great enterprise 
and natural beauty; and moving forward to Kalamazoo, to me the gem city of Michigan, I 
found the Methodist Episcopal Conference in session. After singing in Niles, Hillsdale, 
Jonesville, and other smaller towns, I started with my dear family on a trip to the Lake Su- 
perior districts, in the extreme north-western portion of the State. Through all these immense 
mining and lumbering sections, in which are the towns of Sheboygan, Marquette, Pere, 
Nagauna, and Ishpeming, I gave my services to most enthusiastic audiences; meeting many 
Cornish people, proverbial for their love of sacred song. From these regions I crossed over 
into the State of Wisconsin, to the west of Lake Michigan, and bounded by the great waters 
of Lake Superior on the north. I gave my first service in Milwaukee, which has two hun- 
dred thousand inhabitants, fully two-thirds of whom are Germans; and which, besides being 
the most populous city in the state, is one of the greatest primary wheat markets and ports 
in the Union. This beautiful metropolis is a favorite resort for both pleasure-seekers and 
invalids, on account of the purity of its atmosphere ; while its cream-colored brick, with which 
its public and business buildings and residences are mostly constructed, are of world-wide fame. 
These bricks are made in great quantities for exportation to all parts of the United States; 
being much sought after for the construction of the fronts of public edifices, business blocks, 
and elegant mansions. My evening of song was held in the Summerfield Methodist Epis- 
copal Church, which was crowded with attentive listeners, and which was so thoroughly 
pleasing as to ever afterward bespeak me a full house in visiting the city. 

Passing westward to Madison, the state's capital, one of the most beautiful cities within 
its borders, I found it planted on an isthmus between two charming inland lakes, for which 
isolated bodies of water Wisconsin is peculiarly famous. I sang here in a hall to a few 
people, who received my songs with unmistakable heartiness. Passing on, I gave very well- 
attended services at Janesville, Monroe, Racine, Kenosha, Green Bay, Menasha, Portage City, 
Appleton, Oshkosh, Eau Claire, Chippewa Falls, Baraboo, La Crosse, Waunakee, Waukesha, 



WESTERN STATES AXD NEW ENGLAND. 19 



Mineral Point, Brodhead, Plattville, Waupun, and other well-known towns. At Waupun I 
visited the State Penitentiary, where I gave a service of song in the presence of nearly a 
thousand convicts. Crossing the Mississippi, I entered the great wheat-field of the west, the 
State of Minnesota, whose principal cities are St. Paul and Minneapolis. Here one is thor- 
oughly impressed with western thrift and progress; and if he is accustomed only to small 
things, the enterprising people and fertile country at the head of the great waters of the Mis- 
sissippi will be sure to expand him. St. Paul is a finely built and located city, while Min- 
neapolis, with its great flour and lumber mills, and St. Anthony, with its unequaled water- 
power, teem with the hum of busy industry. Not forgetful of the Falls of Minnehaha, whose 
"laughing waters" have been so beautifully described in verse by Longfellow, I go thither to 
find them laughing still, as they playfully leap from that beautiful cascade. 

Fine hotels, good audiences, appreciative listeners, were mine to enjoy in this state, from 
whose centers I made several expeditions, giving services at Stillwater, Austin, Rochester, 
Fairibault, Northfield, Mankato, and other smaller towns. Taking steamer, I visited Red 
Wing and Winona, two charming localities on the Mississippi's banks, in both of which I 
met most hearty welcome. These upper waters of the great river are full of beauty and 
sublimity, bordered on both banks with many miles of high bluffs and rocks, through which 
the stream seems for ages to have been wearing down, and receding to its present channel. 
For immense distances these bluffs rise in unbroken and often precipitous front on both 
banks of the river, with great uniformity of height, shape, and feature, though often with 
great stretches of lowland, marsh, and prairie between them and the stream, to which they 
occasionally return, to frown at and overshadow with their grim battlements, again to recede 
to a distance of from one to five miles. 

Hurriedly passing through Iowa and Illinois, I came to Indiana. My first service in 
this State was at Indianapolis, the State capitol. I also visited Richmond, Vincennes, Mad- 
ison, Terre Haute, Greencastle (the Athens of Western Methodism), Muncie, Columbus, Fort 
Wayne, Lafayette, Warsaw, Logansport, Michigan City, and South Bend, the latter place 
the home of Hon. Schuyler Colfax, associated in the presidency with the lamented Lincoln, 
and whose public career so singularly terminated with that of his illustrious associate with 
whose inner life and thoughts no one in this land was so well acquainted. 

There is a noticeable contrast in many particulars between the Western and Eastern 
States. New England will ever have a special interest for the friends of religious liberty, in 
the freedom it gave to the Pilgrim fathers. Boston, the capitol city, bears the name of 
"Hub" from the original laying out of the streets in the form of a wheel, but now retaining 
the appellation because of its being the eastern entrepot for culture, wealth, and intelligence. 
It is the oldest portion, and the most familiar part of our country, and to give a description 
of the many interesting places and immense industries would require a volume of itself. As 
my space is limited I prefer to mention parts of the country less familiar, and refer the reader 
to the many well written books on New England. 

I will, therefore, only give a cursory mention of some of the places in which I have 
repeatedly visited and given my services, and generally with gratifying results.' New Haven, 
Hartford, Springfield, Worcester, Providence, Newport, New Bedford, Martha's Vineyard, 
Cape Cod country, Portland, Bangor, Augusta, Lewiston, Fitzburg, Pittsfield, Lawrence, 
Lowell, Charlestown, Concord, Manchester, Nashua, Rutland, Burlington^ Montpelier, and 
Brattlesboro. As the "star of empire is westward," we hasten on into Illinois, with its en- 
terprising and wide-awake population, and which the Chicago people will tell you is the 
banner state of both Hemispheres. 



IN THE WEST. 



Chapter IV. — Chicago. 

'HERE is no other town or city in the entire States which has been so much talked 
and written about as Chicago. Even San Francisco, with its Golden Gate and per- 
plexing Chinese problem, sinks into insignificance when compared with ' ' wonderful 
Chicago." In almost any way you may view it, it has not its equal on the face of 
the globe. It is the largest of its age, having a population of more than 700,000 ; it is 
the finest-built and truest American type of indomitable pluck and perseverance; it is 
the king grain depository and market of the world, and the greatest railroad center in 
the States, besides being the largest shipping port of cattle and swine known in any land. 

All will remember the great fire of 187 1 which destroyed some two hundred and nine 
million dollars worth of property. Even before the fire had exhausted itself, plans were made 





CHICAGO IN RUINS. 



for new streets and stores, and with all the vigor of modern American enterprise, the major 
part of the present vast city rose towering above the ruins, a monument to succeeding genera- 
tions of Western progress. Amusing reports were heard of the commercial announcements 
of some of the ruined tradesmen, who had to begin business over again. "Nothing left out 
of the fire but a five dollar bill, wife, and four children ; never say die," was not an uncom- 
mon appeal to the public. 

I have sung in Chicago many times, both in song service and religious convention, before 
the largest audiences, and always with eminent success; and, while it may properly be termed 
the wickedest city of America, it has been the home of some of the most earnest and faithful 
ministers of the gospel, Christian workers and evangelists known to both the eastern and west- 
ern continents. Here was the residence of D. L. Moody, and here he began his great Chris- 
tian work in earnest. Here lives B. F. Jacobs, the inventor of the uniform National Sunday- 
school Lessons. Here Dr. Edward Eggleston arose in might of mental strength and eloquence, 
and shot out like a new star into the evangelical firmament; and here our Dr. Vincent com- 
menced his great and successful mission in Sabbath-school work, by starting and publishing 
the National Sunday-school Teacher. Here, also, our good, true worker, S. A. Kean, com- 
menced his great missionary Sabbath-school, which has grown up into the full stature of a 
noble Church of Christ. This, too, is the city which gave the world the lamented song 
evangelist, P. P. Bliss, whose translated soul, with that of his dear wife, in one disastrous 
midwinter night, ascended to glory in a chariot of fire, but whose sweet songs go circling 
through and singing over the earth, while their author sings the praises of the redeemed 
standing among the harpers "around about the throne." Here, too, is the home of George 
F. Root, who always seemed to me to be the parent of our American song-poets, as also of 
the princely John V. Farwell, whose modest ways and unassuming charities have made him 
well known to the Christian world. 

Having so proud a record, even in its infancy, and having given so many good things 



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 



to the world, Chicago, or its suburbs, is a good place to hail from, be you in any portion 
of the Christianized or civilized globe. 

From Chicago we visit Springfield, the capital of the State, also known as the "Flower 
Citv " from the beauty of the place and its surroundings. The new State Capitol here is one 
of the finest buildings of the kind in America. Two miles north of the city is Oak Ridge 
Cemetery, where rest the remains of President Lincoln. 

The noble monument erected to his memory cost $215,000. My course now lies up the 
great Mississippi and on to Lake Pepin, an expansion of the river considered by many the 
most beautiful portion of the Mississippi. The forests reach to the river bank, and the water 
is so beautifully clear that fish may be seen many feet below the surface. 

St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota, is a beautiful city, built on both banks of the Missis- 
sippi. The principal public buildings are the State Capitol, occupying an entire block, and 
the United States Custom House, which also contains the post-office. In the winter an im- 
mense ice palace is erected, and a 
great skating carnival is held. 



There 
are some beautiful drives in and 
around St. Paul, a most charming 
one being along the boulevard past 
Fort Snelling to Minnehaha Falls, 
immortalized by Longfellow. No 
visitor to St. Paul should fail to 
visit Minneapolis, which overlooks 
the Falls of St. Anthony. This is 
the center of immense lumber and 
flouring interest, and has a popula- 
tion of 125,000. 

We now go into Dakota, a terri- 
tory twice as large as all the New 
England States. Bismarck is the 
capital. Fargo, Moorhead, and 
Miles City are all thriving towns. 
Through the whole of northern Da- 
kota the road passes through the 
finest wheat lands in the world, and 
there are many farms where thou- 
sands of acres are inclosed within 
one fence, and wheat-growing is fol- 
lowed on a gigantic scale. Leaving 
the immense farm lands we go on 
to the Wonderland of the United 
States, 

THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 

No language can do justice to the 

wonderful grandeur and beauty of 

this vast pleasure domain, which 

comprises an area of three thousand 

five hundred and seventy-five square 

miles, hemmed in by mountain ranges that rise to" a height of from ten to twelve thousand 

feet, and capped with perpetual snow. In the number and magnitude of its geysers and hot 

springs, the park surpasses all the rest of the world. Resuming our journey, we soon reach 

Helena, the capital of Montana Territory, noted for its rich mines of gold and silver and 

medicinal hot springs. 

Washington Territory and the State of Oregon are now known as the "New North-west," 
as it is only within a few years that the great capacities and attractions of this vast region 
have been realized by the world. Portland, Oregon's capital, is the commercial metropolis of 
the Pacific North-west. It lies in the very heart of a great producing country, and for which 
it must serve as a receiver and distributor of exports and imports. It is virtually a seaport, 
to which large vessels may come direct from any part of the world and find wharf accommo- 
dation. Here Dr. Vincent and myself conducted the first Sunday-school convention held in 
Oregon. Several very agreeable excursions may be made from Portland, the most attractive 




LINCOLN' MONUMENT, SPRINGFIELD, ILL. 



CALIFORNIA. 



is that up the Columbia River to the Dalles. The scenery all the way is grand and impressive. 
Another pleasant trip is to Puget Sound, one of the most picturesque bodies of water in the 
world. A little over fifty miles from Portland, and we reach Salem, the capital of Oregon, 
beautifully situated on the Willamette River, and surrounded by a fertile prairie. From Hal- 
sey, accompanied with Dr. Vincent, we took stage overland for California, riding for seven 
hundred miles over the worst roads or trails ever traversed with vehicle, being at the complete 
mercy of drunken drivers; and, on one occasion, being overturned in a roaring creek at mid- 
night, covered with mud and drenched with water, and so soaked and bedraggled as to be 
compelled to build a "tramp" fire to dry our clothing. Our vehicle be'ing unfit, from the 
results of this accident, for further present and probable future use, we were transferred, with 

our soiled baggage, to a lum- 
ber cart, in which sorry plight 
we made the balance of our 
journey, stopping at rough 
hovels for our meals, or 
" grub," as they term it here ; 
and learning, through both 
fear and hunger, to devour 
almost any thing, palatable or 
unpalatable, in the semblance 
of food which was set before 
us, knowing that if we at- 
tempted any criticism on our 
bill of fare, or made manifest 
any dislike at the preparation 
of our dishes, we should be 
violently ejected from the ta- 
ble-d'hcte, or be treated to a 
shower of profanity fully up 
to the powers of old Beelze- 
bub himself. Thus we rode 
forward for nine days and 
nights on the very worst trip 
I was ever called upon to 
experience ; and never were 
two travelers more glad to ex- 
change the mud- wagon for a 
railway carriage than were 
we, as we arrived at Redding. 
This was at a time when road- 
making was comparatively 
new in this region. From 
Redding we go to Chico, 
where resides the noble Gen- 
eral Bid well and his most 
charming wife, who enter- 
tained us for several days in 
their fine home, in the center 
of a giant farm of twenty-two 
thousand acres. But on we 
go over the Upper Sacra- 
mento Valley to Marysville, and thence in a southern direction. Following the Sacramento 
River, we soon arrive at Sacramento, the capital of California. Here a luxuriant growth of 
flowers and shrubs may be seen in the open air at all seasons of the year. The State capitol 
is a magnificent building, situated almost in the very heart of the city, the grounds covering 
eighteen blocks. Tourists who desire to visit the Calaveras Grove of Big Trees, en route from 
Sacramento to San Francisco, should take the old route via Stockton to Milton, and thence by 
stage. There are ninety-three trees of large size in the grove. The tallest is three hundred 
and twenty-five feet high, and forty-five feet in circumference. Their age is supposed to be 
one thousand five hundred years. 

But we resume our journey, and go on to Oakland, the Brooklyn of the Pacific coast, 




BIG TREES OF CALIFORNIA. 



CALIFORXI. 1. 23 



situated nearly opposite San Francisco, of which it is practically a suburb. Oakland is lux- 
uriantly shaded with oak trees, is remarkably well built, and has a delightful climate. From 
here we take ferry-boat for three miles to San Francisco, the chief city of California and com- 
mercial metropolis of the Pacific coast. 

It is hardly possible that there is any locality in the world where more radical changes 
take place in a short time than in California. Since a previous visit two years before, hy- 
draulic mining had torn down the mountains, and new rivers and streams had been provided 
with channels for the purpose of irrigation, which had caused the desert places to spring up 
and blossom like a rose. In fields where wild oats grew indigenously, stood beautiful wheat, 
producing seventy bushels to the acre, waiting the coming of the reapers, while the wild 
canons were becoming prolific vineyards and orchards of fruit, in one of which latter I was 
shown thirty-eight thousand cherry trees, all of which were in bearing. Towns were becoming 
cities, railroads taking the place of stage-routes, little Sabbath-school missions were becoming 
large and influential churches, and improvement in society was correspondingly advancing. 

Remaining in San Francisco for a period of five months, I gave services of song in the 
country each week, returning to sing every Sunday morning at the meetings held by the late 
Dr. Cunningham in the Presbyterian tabernacle, at the Sabbath-school service at noon, at the 
prayer-meetings in the afternoon, and also at the preaching services on Sabbath evenings. 
These meetings were truly blessed of God, and were the most happy in which I have par- 
ticipated in the course of my life-long services in sacred song. 

If I desired to make a home in any part of the world other than New York, my choice 
would certainly fall upon California with its even climate, delightful valleys, thrifty wheat fields, 
delicious fruits, beautiful flowers, wonderful vegetation, and its richness in minerals, surpassing, 
as it does in these and many other particulars, almost every other country in the world. 

One of the excursions most frequently recommended to the stranger in San Francisco 
is that of San Jose, noted for its educational institutions, and in the vicinity are some of the 
finest vineyards in the country. From here we can take horse cars to the picturesque village 
of Santa Clara. Another favorite excursion from San Francisco is to Calistoga, and about 
five miles from Calistoga is the Petrified Forest, which is justly regarded as one of the great 
natural wonders of California. From Calistoga we can take the stages to the famous Geyser 
Springs. Here hot and cold springs lie within a few feet of each other. They differ in color, 
smell, and taste. Los Angeles was the next important point visited. This is the largest city 
in Southern California, and the center of the orange growing business of the State. Still 
another favorite trip is a visit to the Yosemite Valley, calling at the Mariposa Grove of Big 
Trees en route. There are two of these groves ; the upper one contains three hundred and 
sixty-five trees, of which one hundred and fifty-four are over fifteen feet in diameter. The 
largest tree in the lower grove is ninety-four feet in circumference. We now enter the unsur- 
passed Yosemite Valley. This most wonderful valley is six miles in length, and looks like a 
vast flower garden. Plants, shrubs, and flowers of every color cover the ground until the eye 
is dazzled, and the air is heavy with the fragrance of a million blossoms. Trees of several 
centuries' growth raise their tall heads heavenward, yet in comparison with the vast perpendic- 
ular rocks, they look like daisies beside a tall pine. Cascades, cataracts, lakes, rivers, and 
some of the grandest waterfalls in the world are found here. Passing through the silver terri- 
tory of Arizona, we next enter New Mexico, visiting the ancient and interesting city of Santa 
Fe, the oldest town in the United States. It is mostly built of adobe, and its streets present 
a very picturesque commingling of Americans, Mexicans, and Indians. Passing into Texas 
we make a brief halt at San Antonio, the chief city of the western part of the State. The 
market-places and street scenes here will amuse the visitor as being more foreign and queer 
than those of any other American city. 

From San Antonio I started for Dallas, the central metropolis of Texas, and a city of 
considerable pentensions. Sherman is another thriving Texas city which demanded my atten- 
tion. Everybody one meets here seems to be in a hurry, yet most have that complaisant 
look upon their faces which makes one sure that they are successful in something or other. 
A happy state, truly! My next stop was at Waco, where just at this time the comic lecturer, 
Josh Billings, was setting the people wild with his drolleries. In going from here to Austin, 
the capital of Texas, we pass through the most fertile parts of the great State. I was shown 
fields where wheat, corn, and cotton would grow thriftily side by side. Young farmers would 
do well to consider Texas before settling down on a hill farm in crowded Eastern districts. 

Texas does a heavy trade in cattle; indeed, it is the chief interest. This has drawn a 
class of population to the State, which has given it the name of being somewhat lawless. 
There is not that strict regard for "the proprieties" which we find in States farther east. 



24 TEXAS. 

The herder and trader are "a law unto themselves," as they pursue their free life on the 
plains. 

But the cattle-trade is immense. Some men own as many as one hundred thousand head. 
There is an aristocracy in the trade, too, it seems. A society has been formed into which 
no one is allowed to enter as a member unless owning one thousand head of cattle at least. 
The members of this society brand their stock, and once a year they go among the flocks 
and claim their calves in proportion to the number they own. These animals are perfectly 
wild, and often quite vicious. In going among them, the herders ride on horses or mules 
for safety. These cattle roam over the wide, grassy plains, and are no more valuable to their 
owners as milch cows than a wild beast. Consequently, milk is almost as scarce in Texas as 
in Ceylon. The large drovers, or cattle-dealers, have a stuffed ox with broad horns mounted 
on the tops of their houses; so that when one sees this sign in passing through a Texas town, 
the conclusion may at once be arrived at that a cattle-dealer lives there. 

In going from Austin to Houston, 1 was induced to stop over at the thriving little town 
of Brenham, and give an hour of song in the afternoon. About thirty miles from this place 
my old Alabama friend, Dr. Pitts, came on board the train with some fifty of his young lady 
students from "Chapel Hill." This was quite flattering, I thought, and, as pious Frederick 
Faber would have said, " was the source of very profitable confusion to me." It did my soul 
good to see my friend's cheery face again, and to look into the dancing eyes of so many 
blooming girls. They were modest, intelligent, and well-behaved. The good doctor had 
given them a holiday, for the purpose of bringing them to hear me sing. Brenham is only 
a smart young town of three thousand, but had just erected a neat opera house. It was here 
that my service was held, at the solicitation of the Presbyterians of the community, who wor- 
shiped there temporarily. 

At Houston my meeting, despite its sacred nature, had some very comical features. It 
was held in Market Hall, which was kindly given by the people. I found a good old fruit- 
vender under the hall, who assisted me in carrying up my organ. So much done! Then, 
the next thing which filled me with dismay was the lack of a stool. What should I do for 
a stool? Nothing in that bare room sent me back any word of comfort. The matter began 
to look serious. All at once my odd new friend trotted from my side without a word, and 
disappeared by some mysterious door at the farther end of the hall. Soon I heard his un- 
certain steps descending the stairs. What now? My last friend had forsaken me! Had I 
said any thing, done any thing, to hurt the good soul's feelings? But just in the midst of 
these harrowing thoughts, the same step, with its little halt, is heard again on the stairs, and 
the old man comes triumphantly toward me with a great half-bushel measure in his arms ! Do 
not smile, gentle reader, but rejoice with me. That simple measure, if you would review its 
public career, may not have been, it is true, as innocent as it looks; but rest assured it did 
honest work as a seat for the Pilgrim that night at Market Hall. 

From Houston, via the Texas Central Railroad, I started for Galveston, about sixty miles 
distant. Galveston is a fine, growing city of about forty-five thousand inhabitants. It shares 
the fame peculiar to many of our larger Western cities — that of being very wicked. The class 
of emigration which has been drawn to these border towns explains at once how they have 
received this fame. The hope of large gains, with small outlay of labor, at first attracted 
many idle and adventurous persons to the West. Those who had the courage to break off 
from all old associations in the Eastern States, and try their fortunes in a new land, were 
certainly possessed of much spirit; and this same spirit finds outlet in a hundred different 
ways, when the country is new and all the restrictions of a home society are removed. No 
doubt they well deserve the name of "fast cities;" but there is an immense amount of mental 
activity and power wasted here, just because the missionary has not come along to turn it 
into better channels. A superabundant energy, either of brain or body, must expend itself 
upon something, and the object upon which it is spent proves it vicious or holy. So Chris- 
tians should bear into these Western cities such objects of public interest as will be pure and 
elevating, if they would not have them still "fast cities." 

Galveston is noted for its miles and miles of beautiful beach. A drive of eight miles 
along this surf-way was to me one of the grandest features of my Southern travels. The car- 
riage-drive winds along over the clean sand close by the water's edge. The salt spray sifts 
gently down into your face ; but the salt breezes fan it quickly away, and refresh you with 
their invigorating breath. The city is rather low, which is a great disadvantage. A very 
disastrous flood happened here a few years ago, doing much damage. The streets of Gal- 
veston are bordered with the most beautiful oleanders. In May these are all in full bloom, 
presenting a fairy-like picture. 



IN THE SOUTH. 25 



The attendance upon my services here was much lessened by the celebration known 
through the South as the "Mardi Gras." On this occasion of festivity the whole city seems 
to abandon itself to merriment, and to actually run mad in masquerade and public procession. 
I also visited the great cotton markets and presses here, where they squeeze a bale of cotton, 
five feet long by four feet deep and wide, down to four feet long and one foot deep, in less 
time than a minute. To a stranger this is very interesting. 

Going on board one of Morgan's line of splendid steamers, I left Galveston for New Or- 
leans. A delightful passage of twenty hours brought me to my place of destination. 



Chapter V. — New Orleans. 




j|E EW ORLEANS, the great Southern shipping port and metropolis, contains a population 
of about two hundred and thirty thousand, and is one of the most quaint and ancient- 
looking cities in our country. Every-where are evidences of its French and Spanish 
origin. The people themselves are not free from this foreign air, and, indeed, the 
old blood still courses in the veins of many. To go around the city slowly, in an open 
car or carriage, up and down its avenues of fragrant magnolias, is almost worth a trip 
South. Nearly every house is a study. There is a combination of the antique and 
and modern styles of architecture, often in the same building, which would verily set 
our good friend John Ruskin daft were he over here to see. The oddities jut out at every 
angle, and leer comically at you from the black, tumbling walls. You almost fancy they have 
some appreciation of the funniness of the old town; for, leaning so confidentially toward you 
as you pass, you laugh outright at their rows of mysterious-looking, little French eyes — win- 
dows. Yes, the old city is yet alive, and mocks the new for a time ; then sleeps again to dream. 

But I have wandered far away from my subject. In New Orleans I gave several services 
of song, and, in every case, to full houses. At the Union Colored Church I had arranged to 
give every one who purchased a full ticket a copy of my book. In this way several hundred 
were dispersed among the colored people. 

A Northerner, or one unused to our characteristic " darkey," can form but a poor esti- 
mate of the scene of that evening. The negro soul seems nine-tenths emotion, and nothing 
is so potent to arouse it as religious song. They actually bore me along on their own meas- 
ures; for feet, heads, and often books, were going at once, helping me keep time. Tears 
flowed, hands were clapped, and various pious ej-aculations could be continually heard in the 
crowd. It was extremely laughable at times ; but I could not but wish that all my white con- 
gregations would so readily catch and appreciate the religious tone of these services. The 
colored folks understand at once, and come to the service expecting to be made good. 

From New Orleans to Baton Rouge, "the coast," as it is called, is lined with planta- 
tions. Every spot seems to be transformed into beautiful gardens, containing specimens of 
all those choice flowers and fruits, which flourish only in tropical climes. The town, as seen 
from the water, rising regularly and beautifully from the banks with its singularly shaped 
French and Spanish houses, looks like a finely-painted landscape. From Baton Rouge we 
take the river steamer Natchez for Vicksburg, passing the beautiful little town of Natchez 
en route. I found the city of Vicksburg to be one of great natural beauty. It stands upon 
an eminence overlooking the grand "Father of Waters," and smiles in a wild luxuriance of 
tropical trees and flowers. Its commerce is very considerable, though it is quite modest in 
its pretensions, with New Orleans and Mobile close at hand. Here, wherever you turn, you 
are met by war memories. Old times flash up before the mind, and you seem to hear die 
tramp of soldiers just beside you. Buried scenes revive. You are again in Vicksburg with 
Grant or Pemberton, and it is 1863. 

Since those days of my pilgrimage through this Southern land, a scourge almost worse 
than war has fallen upon its cities, and well-nigh depopulated them. The yellow fever reign 
of 1878 will long be remembered as the most fatal and wide-spread known for many years. 
New Orleans, Memphis, Vicksburg, and many cities and villages of smaller size were utterly 
desolated for many months. The fever claimed its victims by the thousand, and made great 
charnel-houses of populous cities in a few days. The spirit of business was entirely quenched, 
and every one either sought refuge in some other place, or remained to minister to the sick 
and help to bury the dead. Such a calamity had rarely been known in our countrv. Nothing 
seemed to arrest its ravages from early summer until late in November. The North was eager 



26 



IN THE SOUTH. 




IN THE SOUTH. 27 



and bountiful in its expressions of sympathy and brotherhood, and sent its hundreds of helpful 
hands, and thousands of willing dollars, to aid the numberless sufferers. Old grudges were 
not so much thought of for the time; for, after all, our disputes are matters which usually 
arise in our heads, and leave our hearts true and united, as the Master begged His followers 
to be. "That they all may be one," you remember He said. And that summer's dire afflic- 
tion in the South brought much more of the spirit of real union to light than we ever dreamed 
could exist since the war. 

Moving on, I was soon at Jackson, the capital of Mississippi. My service was held in 
the Hall of Representatives, Capitol building. It was most adroitly managed by the State 
Secretary, James Lynch, Esq.. a man ever fearless of public opinion when great principles 
were at stake. He was an eloquent minister of the gospel, as well as a politician. I was 
told that this was the first time that a inixed audience had ever assembled under the same 
roof in the town. Here were all classes, waiting to listen to my singing. His Excellency, 
the Governor of Mississippi, was one of my hearers. I felt very much in the spirit of song 
that evening, and so enjoyed it. An excellent notice of the service appeared in the daily 
papers the following morning. From here I ticketed for Meridian, in the eastern part of 
Mississippi. I had heard and read much of the people of this little town, and was glad my 
pilgrimage happened to lead me through it. My service was held in the court-house, which, 
a few months before, was the scene of bloodshed and murder. Previous to my coming, the 
sheriff, and my good friend Mr. Brown, rearranged the hall so as to banish any unpleasant 
suggestions which might arise in the people's minds. I sang an hour and a half; and what 
a privilege it was! How the exultant notes of gospel joy must have contrasted in air with 
the mad shouts of an infuriated mob ! But we will not dwell on it here. 

My next appointment was at Macon. Here I was most heartily received, and sang at 
the Methodist Episcopal Church. Dr. Hicks, the pastor of the church, is a man of ability, 
and believes in "Christian progression," even in this life. The success of my service was 
greatly owing to his earnest efforts in exciting an interest in it. It seemed to do good. 

I next made tracks for Mobile, a fine commercial city of 40,000 inhabitants, situated on 
Mobile Bay, an arm of the Gulf of Mexico. Immense shipments of cotton are made from 
this place. Tobacco, rice, sugar, and sweet potatoes are also largely exported. From its 
communication with so many water-courses, Mobile has grown to be second only to New Or- 
leans in its commercial importance as a Southern seaport city. The weather seemed intensely 
warm to me, which is probably because I was unused to such extreme heat as they have 
down there; for others did not appear to suffer much. 

I next visited Montgomery, Alabama, a truly beautiful city. It was once proposed, during 
the late civil war, to make Montgomery the capital of the Confederate States; but, upon 
further consultation, the idea was abandoned. The city shows taste and refinement in its 
buildings, decorations, and streets. The State-house is so situated as to make a most imposing 
appearance. As Alabama is one of the great cotton-producing States, we give a characteristic 
scene in the cotton-fields. 

From Alabama I went to Florida, the land of flowers! What memories of old John Ponce 
de Leon linger here! I wondered why the grave looked so dark to him, and why he wished 
so much to prolong a life which had already become a burden! Ah! could he have indeed 
accepted the water of life, whose healing stream issues from Calvary, he would have sought 
no further for the fountain of perennial youth! But his heart was disappointed in its quest, 
and he went home only to tell of his failure, and of a land floating in perfumes, which he 
named Florida. Alas! poor Leon! Mark Twain also hails from Florida, describing as he 
does, far better than I can, experiences which both he and I have had when, in our pilgrim- 
ages, we have been "innocents abroad." 

Every mile of my travel now was through a delightfully green country, flooded with 
sunshine and the grateful odors of flowering trees. The pine, cedar, and live-oak forests send 
into the open car-windows most pungent and refreshing draughts as we whirl along on our 
way to Tallahassee, the capital of the State. It is a shady little city of about two thousand 
inhabitants. I arrived just in time to appear before my waiting audience, which was a good 
one. I was compelled to use the organ provided me, which had been elevated to the top 
of the pulpit, on a level with the sides of the galleries. Between me and the audience was 
a great, burly negro, with a lever, pumping away with all his might to give wind for the 
organ. It was a very comical sight, and my sense of the ridiculous nearly overmastered me 
several times. How could one be expected to do one's best, perched up in that style as if 
some strange specimen to be examined? and that white-eyed, tugging, sweating creature just 
before one! It would be unreasonable, certainly. 



28 



IN THE SOUTH. 



My next engagement in the State called me to Jacksonville, a beautiful city situated on 
the St. John's River. Here oranges hang temptingly above one's head on the trees in Jan- 
uary and February; flowers perfume the air, and birds circle about in the sunshine. This 
State is our Italy. 




PICKING COTTON IN THE SOUTH. 



I had the great pleasure of singing to a large number of invalids, who had come here 
in search of health. Oh, how many weary ones there are in this world who spend the larger 
part of their lives in "looking for a climate!" and yet where does the Great Healer dwell? 
Faith, more faith, is what our poor humanity needs. The Cxood Physician can cure us in 
our homes — can he not ? — if we will but believe for healing. At Jacksonville we embark for 
the West India Islands, making a thorough pilgrimage through Jamaica. 



WEST 1X1)1.1 ISLANDS. 



29 



In our circuit and detours of Jamaica, we have traveled nine hundred and twenty-five 
miles without an insult or accident. The things that most impressed us were the unbounded 
hospitality of the Jamaicans, the intelligence of the natives, the pleasant appearance and large- 
ness of the places of worship, the catholicity of spirit cherished by many Christian people, 
the excellence of the roads, the varieties of climate, and the surpassing natural beauty of the 
Island. Our first engagement called us to Kingston, and after a most cordial and delightful 
reception in this city we started with our horses and carriage for a three month's tour of the 
Island. The old Spanish capital next claimed our attention through the medium of the Wes- 
leyans, who gave us a hearty greeting. At Vere we were for the first time shown over the 
great sugar estates and factories, which I could not help contrasting with my boyhood expe- 
rience of making sugar from the sap of maple trees on a small scale. The famous "Bog 




STREET SCENE IN KINGSTON. 



Walk" treated us with its grandeur as we went on to sing at Linstead and Old Harbor. 
Leaving the flat lands of the Alley we journeyed to Porus and Mandeville. At the former 
place, by the kindness of the Rev. Thomas B. Black, we greatly enjoyed a two days' stop at 
their mission home overlooking a varied landscape, while at Mandeville we were the guests 
of Rev. Mr. Panton and his estimable family. At Wesley Mount we were made at home 
by the Rev. Mr. Bleby, who seems to be following the footsteps of his heroic father. Next 
came Mizpah and Fairfield, the Moravian headquarter, where we almost seemed to catch 
glimpses of Beulah Land. These good people seem to take to the hills, where they can let 
their light shine all over the surrounding country. Here we could see one of the mos't 
charming landscapes in the world. At our feet stretched broad savannahs of morass and 
cane, while beyond lay another range of hills with the blue background of the sea, revealing 
every outline of their summits and varied colored foliage, interspersed with coffee bush, and 
native flowers, and these all tinted by the shades of the fast setting sun, served to make as 
lovely a panorama of nature's beauty as can be imagined. By the kind introduction of his 



3° 



WEST INDIA ISLANDS. 



lordship — good Bishop Nuttall — and the hearty support of ministers of nearly every denom- 
ination, the churches and chapels have been open to us wherever we went; and such cour- 
tesies as we have experienced during our sojourn we can not forget, and the cordiality seems 
to have come from all classes. Our engagements having called us to almost every part of 
Jamaica, has caused us to put it down as one of the most pleasant places we have visited. 
Santa Cruz, Lacovia, Black River, Bethlehem, and Mountain Side gave us fine audiences 
and marked attention. The Black River malaria, of which we were warned, did not trouble 
us in the least. 

After spending a delightful Sabbath at the hospitable home of W. H. Allport, Esq., at 

Kepps, we visited Carmel, 
meeting another genial spirit, 
Rev. Jonathan Reinke. At 
Sav-la-Mar we were recipients 
of the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. 
Prior's hospitality. We were 
a little amused to see one 
hundred children swarming in 
and around the mission home 
with their mothers (not fa- 
thers) asking Mr. Prior to 
baptize them before leaving 
for his new field of labor. 
From Lucea, with its fine har- 
bor and surrounding cane- 
fields, we journeyed over thirty 
miles to Chichester, and after 
singing to a good audience at 
Mount Ward we reached 
Montego Bay, where, for six 
days, we greatly enjoyed our- 
selves. The Rev. Adam 
Thompson and his interesting 
daughters, by their kind hos- 
pitality, making us loth to 
leave. At Falmouth and 
Brown's Town we held four 
"Evenings" under the auspi- 
ces of the Baptists. At the 
latter place our first service 
was in the Rev. George Hen- 
derson's church, and as Mr. 
Henderson was educated at 
Hamilton University in my 
own State, we could hardly 
help feeling at home in his 
church and family. Our sec- 
ond service was in the Taber- 
nacle, which was splendidly 
decorated with flags, flowers, 
mottoes, even a bearing ba- 
nana tree, and filled with as 
appreciative and attentive an audience as we have sung to in Jamaica. 

Dry Harbor (though wet that night) and Beechamville came next on our program, the 
latter place being the home of the oldest Wesleyan missionary on the Island, Rev. H. B. 
Foster, who treated us with a kindness long to be remembered. Moneague, St. Anns Bay., 
and Port Maria were our next stops. En route we left our carriage in order to get a view 
of the thousand cascades of the clear waters of the Roaring River. 

The road from here to Ocho Rios we think the most charming coast road we have ever 
traveled over. Port Ontonio impressed us as a thriving little seaport, with its enterprise and 
thrifty inhabitants. Here the Wesleyans seem alive under the care of a Welchman. At 
Golden Grove we enjoyed seeing the cultivated plains of sugar-cane, tarrying for the night 




' BOG WALK. 



IN THE SOUTH. 31 



and for the first time at a planter's house, afterwards visiting Bath and Morant Bay. But 
before bringing these remarks to a close I can not help mentioning our appreciation of the 
kind patronage of his excellency Sir Anthony and Lady Musgrove, his lordship the Bishop 
of Jamaica and Royal Commissioners, and several Custodes, who gave their influence towards 
the success of our services. To sum up, we enjoyed our trip beyond all expectations. But 
we must bid farewell to Jamaica and its good people, and return to the United States, giving 
my next service in the great south-eastern cotton market, Savannah, the capital of Georgia, 
after which I went to Atlanta, where my old friend, Rev. George Standing, had charge of 
the church in which my service was conducted; and we had a most enjoyable evening. I 
was never in better voice and spirits, and my audience seemed well entertained. It was 
composed mostly of colored people, with several teachers and members of the "Clark School 
Institute." 

Leaving here quite early in the morning, I reached Opelika, a town of about three thou- 
sand inhabitants, "away down in Alabama." While walking from the depot to the hotel, I 
was met by a half-drunken fellow, who professed to be acquainted with me. It is probable 
that he had attended some of my meetings somewhere, but I did not recall his features. 
His good-nature was consummate. He insisted upon walking with me, and introducing me to 
almost every one we met. It was ludicrous in the extreme. Perhaps he was one of my con- 
verts. I should look for no better result if I did not depend upon God to do the converting 
in my work. After being presented to over a dozen persons by my jolly companion, we 
reached the hotel, and I managed to shake off the intruder. 

My singing had been well advertised, and an excursion party from Albany had come 
on, to be present at the service. Here I spent my first Sabbath in Alabama. In the after- 
noon I went to a large church — more like a barn with the windows out — to hear a young 
colored preacher give his first sermon. I could hear nothing but his text, and that only 
about once in fifteen minutes. He spoke all the other parts in such a high, unnatural key 
that I could make nothing of it. He frothed at the mouth and watered at the eyes with his 
efforts. When completely exhausted he let his voice sink down to an ordinary tone, and 
repeated what he gave as his text: "I tell 'e what it is, ye must fear God." He had a 
congregation of at least one thousand people. During the exercises two colored "mothers in 
Israel " were walking up and down through the audience, shouting, jumping, and clapping 
their hands. This evidenced religious joy, I suppose ; but it was the most ludicrous thing 
imaginable. The din was incessant. My ears were fairly ringing with the strain upon the 
tympanum. 

Selma, near the center of the State, was the next point I visited. I found it a beautiful 
Southern city. Through the excellent management of Mr. Hobbs I had a good audience 
and a pleasant time. Jefferson Davis, ex-President of the Confederate States, sat in the as- 
sembly before me. What thoughts stirred in my mind as I gazed upon his careworn face 
I shall not undertake to relate ; but how thankful I was that I from the North and he from 
the South had no more need of embarrassment in meeting, but could rejoice in sweet fellow- 
ship over a simple gospel song! 

My next journey was to Augusta, the third city of Georgia in population, and one of 
the most beautiful in the South; and from here to the chief commercial city of South Car- 
olina, Charleston. It was here that the first gun was fired during our civil war. In the 
month of January, 1861, the steamer Star of the West attempted to enter Charleston harbor 
with supplies for the garrison stationed at Fort Sumter. In doing so, however, the vessel 
was fired upon and driven back by batteries which the South Carolinians had erected on the 
adjacent shores. Thus began one of the most lamentable wars on record. And now it was 
here, after all those terrible years of bloodshed and national disintegration, that I was called 
in a time of peace to sing to an audience of frecdmcn! There before me, with their ebony 
faces all aglow with enthusiasm, was the grand result of that fearful struggle. Let us be 
thankful that it is over, and that we still have a united people in North and South ! My 
congregation was made up of colored people of all shades of complexion. There were many 
whose fairness made one doubt the taint of their blood; while others displayed the unmistak- 
able features of the full-born African. They were very extravagant in their demonstrations 
of appreciation, and seemed a refined class of their race. Since my visit to Charleston the 
city has almost been completely destroyed by a fearful earthquake. 

From this point I went to Columbia, the capital of South Carolina. This little State 
has long been noted as the first rice-growing State in the Union. The coast is skirted with 
fertile islands, which produce the Sea Island cotton. Among the pleasant things of my visit 
to Columbia, was the new acquaintance and Christian sympathy of J. W. Wightman, D. D., 



IN THE SOUTH. 



whose hospitable "manse" sheltered me for a few days. I spent a most delightful Sabbath 
with him, heard the gospel from his eloquent lips, and in the evening gave a song-sermon 
service to a large and intelligent congregation. I labored to some disadvantage, however, 
for lack of singing-books, twenty being all I had with me; yet, notwithstanding, the ready 
sympathy of the people enabled me to forget the embarrassment, and to have a very pleasant 
evening. At the close of the exercises a collection was taken up to help pay for the church, 
which was new. The former building had been burned by the Union soldiers during the 
late 'war under peculiar circumstances. It will be remembered that the first ordinance of 
secession during the War of the Rebellion was adopted in the Baptist church of that city. 
When the Federal soldiers passed through Columbia they mistook the Methodist Episcopal 
building for the Baptist, and in their patriotic zeal burned it to the ground. It was a. sad 
mistake which the church of the same name North should endeavor to rectify. The organiza- 
tion is poor, notwithstanding it has made noble self-denial, and has built again. A beautiful 
bouquet of Southern flowers, handed me just at leaving, reminded me for weary miles of the 
delightful Christian parsonage I had left. I sent them home — the beautiful messengers they 
ever are— as a January present to my dear wife in the North. 

But my arrangements made it necessary to push on until another long day's ride by train 
brought me to Goldsboro, and a journey the next day to Wilmington, North Carolina, the 
State from which we obtain much of our tar, pitch, and turpentine. Though on the sea-coast 
it has no commerce of its own on account of the shallow, unnavigable nature of its inlets, 
and the presence of numerous low islands and sand-bars along the shore. Its people, how- 
ever, are practical and persevering, and have developed various other resources in their State — 
mining, agriculture, lumbering, and commerce through other ports. 

At Norfolk I met a crowd of most attentive listeners. Many of the Southern brethren 
were present and extended to me the kindly hand of Christian greeting at the close. "Stay 
another night," they said, "or come again and we will give you a larger room than this, and 
fill it with people for you." 

From Norfolk to Raleigh was my next journey; but imagine my astonishment upon reach- 
ing the place to find that it was decided not to open the church for me. No previous notice 
had been given ; and there I was with my organ (which had been purposely ordered on from 
Boston, forty dollars of traveling expenses, two hundred miles out of my way, and no engage- 
ment! I managed to restrain my "righteous indignation," settle my bills, and then shake 
off the dust of their city against them. 

My next engagement was at Richmond, Virginia. The "Old Dominion" has the honor 
of being the birthplace of seven of o'ur Presidents. It is low and level toward the east, but 
gradually rises as the land grades westward into the Blue Ridge Mountains. The history of 
Virginia is one full of interest, as she took such active part in the early colonial struggles. 

No State in the Union has such universal reputation for whole-hearted hospitality as this 
one. Before the war "an old Virginia planter's home" was the Northern guest's paradise. 

Richmond is a very old city, comprising a population of some 70,000 inhabitants. It is 
beautifully situated on the James River. During our late civil war this city was rendered 
ever memorable by the horrors and cruelty practiced upon Union prisoners at Libby prison, 
which is located here. 

The fearful sufferings there endured by our patriotic braves have sickened the world's 
memory of Richmond; and one passes through her busy marts seeming to hear the cries of 
distress from those black walls, even when far away from them. Heaven only can atone to 
them for those tragic days at Libby Prison. While in Libby I thought of Chaplain McCabe, 
who, being a prisoner here during the war, managed to dig himself out, and bear to the 
outside world a true account of what was taking place inside these walls. Oh, how grandly 
he had sung the "Battle Hymn of the Republic" within its barriers to cheer up the despairing 
boys, and then let his brain and fingers contrive as grandly to find means for their escape 
or relief! No wonder now that people crowd houses to hear his story, sad as it is; for it 
has an heroic side which is always attractive to patriotic hearts. But Libby is no more ! 
The stranger may pass in and out of the dark building, which has been converted to a busi- 
ness use, and never gather more than the faintest hint within its precincts of that terrible time. 

Here I gave my first song sermon to a Southern audience, and my own soul told me 
that it was a profitable service. It was well received. Before leaving the city I gave three 
more "evenings of song" to rather small but appreciative houses. My next engagement was 
but twenty miles away, at Petersburg, a city numbering about twenty thousand in population. 
The chief commercial interest seems tq be tobacco. I visited the large factories, where the 
weed is manufactured into the various trade articles, and heard one thousand five hundred 



AV THE SOUTH. 



33 




BROAD STREET METHODIST CHURCH, RICHMOND, VA. 



34 



IN THE SOUTH. 



colored men sing together as they twisted the narcotic weed. Here I smelled, and smelled, 
and smelled, and smelled, until I felt like eschewing the abominable thing forever. The very 
air seemed contaminated with it. In this State is the grand "natural bridge," one of the 
world's great wonders, an incident in connection with which has been so graphically described 
by Elihu Burritt, in his sketch "One Niche the Highest." 

I sang in the Baptist church to a large audience. In this church the pulpit is baptized 
with the candidates. The pastor has but to touch a spring and the entire pulpit immediately 
immerses itself beneath the baptistry. This gives all in the congregation an opportunity of 
witnessing the baptismal scenes to better advantage. 

My next appointment was at Lynchburg, situated on the James River. This is a noted 
railroad center, and vast fields of coal and iron ore are found in the vicinity. From here 
I hurried on to Chattanooga, a city near the famous Lookout Mountain. The place is his- 
toric. Most of it has been built since the war of 1861. The National Soldiers Cemeteries 
are here, where over ten thousand are buried. Chattanooga impresses one as a very fast 
town. I was glad to sing in sight of Lookout Mountain. Knoxville was next my objective 
point. Near here is the model farm of Colonel Dickinson, which comprises over five hundred 
acres in the highest state of cultivation; and after this Greenville, the former home and now 
the burial-place of our ex-President Andrew Johnson. The place has little interest to the 
traveler but for this. The greater part of Eastern Tennessee is mountainous, and a fine grazing 
country. 

Nashville is very picturesquely situated on an eminence, which gives it a most imposing 
appearance. Indeed, the city rambles over the hills, and gives one a very delightful feeling 
of grace and freedom. Two institutions of learning, " Fisk University" and "Central Col- 
lege," add fame to the place, and bring in a class of cultured people, which nothing else would 
do so readily. 

The "Fisk University," it will be remembered, was built by the noted "Jubilee Singers," 
for the education of the colored class who aspired to a higher intellectual training and admis- 
sion to the professions. These "Jubilee Singers," a small company of gifted colored persons, 
. determined upon a musical tour to raise funds. They possessed remarkably fine, rich voices — 
as do almost all of their race. Their plan was to give religious concerts, using only the old plan- 
tation songs of their days of slavery. The attempt proving very successful in the United States, 
they were encouraged to go abroad, and here we have the result of their praiseworthy efforts. 
Here we find the true aristocracy of the State, both colored and white. "Central Col- 
lege" is also for this class, and attracts a good attendance. It is presided over by the faithful 
Dr. John Braden. It is worth a visit to Nashville to witness the "educated airs" which 
many of these people of color put on. They can not help feeling the improved difference ia 
their position, and this knowledge has and does elevate them. 

Memphis called me next. This is a city of sixty-five thousand inhabitants. It is situated 
on the Mississippi River, about one hundred miles below the point where the Ohio makes its- 
junction with the former. Memphis is, consequently, the greatest commercial city in Ten- 
nessee. The State produces wheat, cotton, corn, and tobacco, which, with hogs, mules, and 
cattle — largely raised in some counties — find a ready market at Memphis. This city also was 
sadly depopulated by the yellow fever scourge of 1878. 

When I reached Memphis it was nearly time for my singing. If any of my readers have 
been over the M. K. & L. R. R., or the best of those South-western lines, some idea can be 
formed of how I felt after that bouncing trip. But I was thankful to escape with unbroken, 
limbs, and hurried away to my appointment, doing as well as the circumstances would permit. 
My next stop was at Brownsville, somewhat of a rural town, with the old style forms and 
sentiments of the South. 

My next State was Arkansas, and I went directly to the capital city, Little Rock. This 
is a fine, healthy city, and is rapidly growing. Situated on the Arkansas River, which com- 
municates with the great Mississippi, somewhat farther down, it forms a popular shipping 
point for the agricultural arid the other productions of the interior. It adorns a State which 
has, thus far, not many attractions; for much of the Arkansas country is dreary in the extreme 
to the traveler, and not very promising to the politician. Cattle-raising, it is true, is a profit- 
able business in many parts; but the whole State has yet to be developed in its resources. 
Railroad trains vex you with their slowness and rough riding. You protest that you could 
make as* good time in walking, and have more comfort. Travelers are constitutional grum- 
blers, of course ; but there is much truth in what is said here. Time is going to do great 
things for Arkansas, and we must be patient. 

From here we went to Hot Springs, one of the most frequented health resorts in America. 



THE CENTRAL STATES. 



The springs are sixty-six in number, and vary in temperature from 93 to 160 Fahrenheit. 
Issuing from the slope of the mountain, they discharge about five hundred thousand gallons 
per day into the creek. The waters are taken both internally and externally, and have effected 
some marvelous cures of skin diseases. 

Cairo, Illinois, built at the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, was my next stopping 
place, and from here we journey to Louisville, stopping en route at Paducah and New Albany, 
the only important cities on the way. 




Chapter VI. — Louisville. 

||| OUISYILLE is the chief city of Kentucky. Its site is one of peculiar excellence. 
This great mart has a population of one hundred and thirty-five thousand, and is 
considered one of the most prosperous of Southern cities. It is situated on the 
Ohio River, and forms a great center of trade for the surrounding country. Ken- 
tucky is a State of mild and healthful climate, most of it being mountainous. Strangers 
find an unfailing attraction in the magnificent Mammoth Cave, near Green River, which 
has been worthily classed among the "seven wonders of the world." 

At one time the cave property embraced two hundred acres, and was valued at forty 
dollars. At present it embraces two thousand acres, and is valued at one hundred and fifty- 
thousand dollars. The Rotunda, Star Chamber, Giant's Coffin, Methodist Church, Gothic 
Chapel, Bridal Altar, should all be visited ; but as these things must be seen to be understood, 
I will not attempt to describe the wonders we saw during our wanderings underground. 

Lexington was the next to hear from me. It is, perhaps, the most aristocratic city in 
Kentucky. Here our noble Henry Clay declared that he would "rather be right than be 
President" — and he had his choice. In Lexington sacred song received a hearty welcome. I 
sang under the auspices of the Presbyterian Church ; then went forward to Frankfort, the cap- 
ital of Kentucky. Several smaller places in Kentucky called me to fill engagements — Paris, 
Cynthiana, and Maysville, one of the oldest towns in the State — in all of which I held my 
services, and found the people full of hospitality and kindly feeling. 

Still moving on, in due time I reached the fine old city of Covington. It does not seem 
like a Southern city, though accounted such. Situated on the southern bank of the Ohio 
River, just opposite Cincinnati, and with a population of thirty-two thousand people, it forms 
one of the most important of trade centers. It is now connected with the great city just over 
the river by two most substantial and attractive bridges. These bridges make the two cities 
one. Singing in Covington was by no means a new thing to me. I had sung here many 
times before, and always with good encouragement. This last service was not an exception 
to the rule. 

From Covington I journeyed to Charleston, West Virginia, celebrated as the scene of 
John Brown's execution. While in this vicinity the remarkable subterranean caverns of Luray 
should be visited. They offer a spectacle which, in vastness, variety, and beauty, are unsur- 
passed. We next visited the capital of West Virginia — Wheeling — a flourishing city of over 
thirty-five thousand inhabitants. I have always been greeted here with large audiences. From 
here I enter Ohio, a State rich in agricultural resources, and far ahead of many older States 
in manufactures and commerce. Columbus is the capital, with a population estimated at over 
seventy-five thousand. Twenty-four miles from here and we reach the neat little city of Del- 
aware. The Ohio Wesleyan University and the Ohio Wesleyan Female College are located 
here. It was at Marion, in this State, that I found my dear wife, whose devoted companion- 
ship and love have been the chief comfort and solace of my life. No wonder, therefore, that 
I associate with Ohio my happiest memories of the past. Cincinnati, the Queen City of the 
State, next to New York, claimed the greatest share of my attention. 

From Ohio we pass into Indiana, stopping at Richmond, the headquarters of the Western 
Quakers. Indianapolis, the State capital, in which there is a strong Methodist element, has 
ever received me heartily. The new State-house here is a magnificent building. We now 
take train for Terre Haute, beautifully situated on the banks of the Wabash River, and thence 
to Lafayette, situated at the head of navigation on the Wabash River, and from here to Fort 
Wayne, one of the chief cities of Indiana, with a population of about thirty thousand. 

The next important point is Toledo, situated on the Maumee River. Its commerce is 
very large and its manufactures are numerous and important. Leaving Toledo we next ticket 
for Cleveland, stopping on the way at Oberlin, the seat of Oberlin College, from which no 
one is excluded on account of sex or color. Cleveland is the second city in size and impor- 



36 THE CENTRAL STATES. 



tance in Ohio. It is laid out with great taste, the streets being remarkably wide and well 
paved. The abundance of shade-trees has given it the title of "Forest City." 

Going on to Pittsburgh, which Ave proudly designate the great metropolis of iron, the 
busy sounds to be a key-note of our transatlantic industry and enterprise. Yet after all this 
busy city is, as it were, a black forest of high smoking and flaming chimneys, reared upon 
and amid the grand old Alleghany Mountains, and whose wharves are washed by both the 
Monongahela and Alleghany rivers just as they merge their waters in the broad Ohio. Here 
was the home and field of labor of my friend, the late Dr. Alexander Clark; and since his 
decease I have felt that it can never be the same Pittsburgh to me. When there I may not 
hear his kindly voice, and look again upon his dear familiar face, although the city has itself 
most tenderly expressed its bereavement at his loss. 

My course from this point was on to Newcastle, to sing at the kind invitation of Ira D. 
Sankey, who has of late years been doing his own singing, and with blessed results, and who, 
in a recent letter to me, says: "I shall ever look upon you as one of the biggest factors in 
my life; for it was you who opened up to me the wondrous power there is in singing the 
blessed gospel of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ." At this time Mr. Sankey was engaged 
in the revenue department, and was the efficient superintendent of the Newcastle Methodist 
Sunday-school. Subsequently he became associated with me in singing and in a business 
capacity for a few years, and in this position came in contact with Mr. Moody, the dual services 
of whom, in sermon and in song, the Christian world to-day delights to honor. 

In the next stage of my journey I struck Oil City, the center and headquarters of the 
oil region. It is not particularly attractive to either the eye or the nose, but it will afford 
the best opportunity of witnessing the various operations of obtaining, refining, guaging, and 
shipping petroleum. 

The vast quantities of petroleum or kerosene oil, which were at first discovered and ob- 
tained by driving and drilling artesian wells into the earth, from which this wonderful fluid 
deposit flowed out for many months, and was afterward pumped by steam power, have become 
in a great measure exhausted, and the world is now supplied with three-fourths of all the oil 
consumed from the mountain basin in which the city of Bradford, in this same State, is sit- 
uated, which fields are immediately reached by narrow-gauge railroads, running up the steep 
grades of the hills, and crossing the great chasms between them, on skeleton bridges of timber 
and spiles. Four years ago this agricultural hamlet, nestling among these old hills, was almost 
isolated from the outer world by the huge battlements of nature, and barely contained one 
thousand inhabitants. But as if by magic wand it has sprung up into the proportions of a 
large city of thirteen thousand inhabitants by the discovery of its rich oil deposits ; and in 
an area of thirty miles in length by from two and one-half to seven miles in width, six thou- 
sand wells have been sunk, at an average cost of three thousand dollars each, whose skeleton 
derricks, upreared against the sky, dot all the hills and valleys like so many sentinels — even 
the streets, yards, and gardens of the city proper having these not strictly ornamental struct- 
ures planted therein, as thickly as shade-trees in many less fortunate but more aristocratic 
localities. 

The product or yield of these wells is conducted to vast wooden tanks, and from thence 
forced by steam power through several main lines of large iron pipe (which extend one hun- 
dred miles or more under ground), over hills, mountains, and plains, and through valleys, 
gorges, and rivers, to Olean, Williamsport, Salamanca, and other railroad centers, where the 
oil is conducted into huge oil-tanks built upon platform cars, and thence taken to the refin- 
eries in different sections of the country. These oil w'ells flow spontaneously for about two 
years, and are pumped for two more, by which time the supply is generally exhausted. The 
paying wells average a yield of two hundred and forty barrels every twenty-four hours, while 
the aggregate supply of petroleum from this great subterranean vat, or reservoir, at Bradford, 
is forty-five thousand barrels each day. Here are gathered speculative and money-seeking 
characters from not only all portions of my own, but from many foreign countries. 

This entire region has received a fresh boom by the finding of natural gas, which is likely 
to outrival the oil industry. Natural gas is being found in many parts of Pennsylvania and 
Ohio, notably in the vicinity of Pittsburgh and Findlay, Ohio. The gas is used for both heating 
and illuminating purposes, and I think it would be safe to predict that in the next few years all 
the principal cities in Ohio, Western Pennsylvania, and New York will be heated by natural 
gas. Many of the wells have a pressure of six hundred pounds. 

We next went to Washington, Pa., to have a look at the crematory, erected about a mile 
and a half from the town, and where a few bodies have been cremated; and I could not 
avoid contrasting this with a somewhat similar practice performed by the heathen on the 



AT THE CAPITAL. 



37 



banks of the Ganges 



We next visit Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania. The city is 
handsomely built, and is surrounded by beautiful scenery. From the dome of the State-house 
(which is situated on an eminence) a delightful view can be obtained. From here we visit 
Hagerstown. This was the scene of several severe conflicts during the civil war. Annapolis, 
the capital of Maryland, is deserving of a visit if the tourist has time. 



Chapter VII. — Washington. 



WASHINGTON, D. C, was my next rendezvous, America's Capital City, the center 
of the great Republican Government. It contains a population of about one hun- 
_Jj? dred and fifty thousand, and is much admired for its elegant buildings, tasteful 
WlHiP decorations, and wide, clean streets. My first singing here occurred some years 
before, in the Hall of Representatives, in the presence of the President, Abraham 
Lincoln, and his Cabinet. 

The simplicity of the melodies, combined with their lofty sentiment, touched these 
great minds, wearied with the tangled affairs of State, and for a time seemed to bring 
comfort and rest. Mr. Lincoln was particularly pleased with "Your Mission," and sent up 
a written request (which I now have in my possession, and regard as a rare relic) to have it 




UNITED STATES CAPITAL, WASHINGTON, L>. C. 



repeated. Among those present on that occasion may be mentioned Wm. H. Seward, Salmon 
P. Chase, Charles Sumner, Fessenden, Secretary of the Treasury; Stanton, Secretary of War; 
Wells, Schuyler Colfax, Washburne, Blaine. Dawes, Boutwell, W. S. Hancock, General James 
A. Garfield, and representatives of the highest social culture of the country adorned and 
graced the occasion. I have given many services in the capital since then, and have always 



3§ 



AT THE CAPITAL. 



had good audiences. I visited Washington in the winter of 1878, en route for Texas, on 
which occasion I paid my respects to President Hayes and his estimable lady at the White 
House. 




HALL OF REPRESENTATIVES, WASHINGTON. 

The most prominent object in the city is the Capitol building. The beholder is impressed 
with its noble proportions, its magnificent collonades, and its great dome. The United States 
Treasury, War and Navy Departments, Patent Office, new Pension Building, Smithsonian In- 
stitution, and Washington Monument should all be visited. 

Singing on in my course I soon found myself at Baltimore, the " Monumental City," and 
largest city of Maryland. This State lies directly west of Delaware, and is pierced by the 
Chesapeake Bay. -The area is about nine thousand three hundred square miles. The western 
part of the State is hilly, or mountainous, but as it slopes eastward it becomes level. 

The Bay forms a most excellent avenue of commerce, and furnishes the State with other 
important resources. Baltimore is famed as a beautiful city all over the world. It contains 
a population of about four hundred thousand souls. My first appearance here was at the 
anniversary of the Missionary Society of the Methodist Episcopal Church. My style of music 
was altogether new to Baltimoreans, and they seemed quite entranced with it. Some in the 
audience even fell to shouting over it. There is no city in America more Methodistic than 
Baltimore; nor scarcely another equal to it in hospitality to strangers. I went from church 
to church here, and sang to gathered crowds ; and over seven thousand children collected to 
listen to my songs, at the Market Hall. I stood on a stand and sang until I was tired and 
hoarse. Afterward I gave a service in one of the Baptist churches. The program of the 
evening was just about half finished when the Rev. Griffith Owen came to me, and asked 
if I would allow an interruption for a few moments. Of course I willingly consented, and 
seated myself to rest awhile. There was a slight rustle in the congregation, and in a moment 
a couple stood before the altar to be married. Why they had chosen this time for the beau- 
tiful ceremony, I do not know; but it seemed most appropriate to celebrate so glad a sacra- 
ment in the midst of joy and song. At the close of the ceremony I sang a nuptial hymn, 
and they went on their way rejoicing. It formed a very pleasant episode in our meeting, 
as one may imagine. 

From here I was invited to give about twenty-five services of song through the State 
under the auspices of the State Sunday-school Association. 

Dover is the capital of Delaware, and Wilmington its chief city. Here I held a service 
of song, as I did in all the larger cities and towns of the State, every-where finding the people 
hospitable and appreciative. 

From here I turned to the "Quaker city" of Philadelphia, a city of staid, quiet, God- 
fearing and law-abiding people, whose natural characteristics display themselves in the regu- 
larity and width of the streets, the cleanliness, wealth, and refinement evident every-where. 
It has a proud history, -having been the birth-place of American Independence. 



BALTIMORE. 



39 




MT. VERNON METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, BALTIMORE. 



40 



PHILADELPHIA, THE QUAKER CITY. 




INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR OF INDEPENDENCE HALL, PHILADELPHIA. 



PHILADELPHIA, THE QUAKER CITY. 



4i 



My audience here was four thousand strong. I was introduced to the assembly by George 
H. Stuart, who, in presenting me, said: "Although my friends tell me I have no taste 111 
music, yet I have eyes that could weep with President Lincoln, when Mr. Phillips sang his 
touching songs in Washington." While here I met Mr. R. Pearsall Smith, who has since 
scattered his notes on the "Rest of Faith" over our own land, Great Britain, and even up 
into the palace of the German king. It was after a '-service of song,'' held at the Ebenezer 
Church, that Mr. Smith called me aside and gave me some words of strong encouragement 
which have been a great blessing to me ever since. Shortly after this Mr. Smith wrote me 
a very urgent request to visit his father's house, and there sing some of my songs. He said : 
"My father is a good man; but although all his children are Christians, he has never made 
a profession. Now, Brother Phillips, I have faith to believe that if you will go there, and 
sing some of your hymns, he will give his heart to Christ." Such was the entreaty; so I 
fixed upon a date, and went. Most of the family were present, and nearly all in the somber 
garb of Quakers. Pearsall Smith had forethought to invite that saintly man, Rev. Alfred 
Cookman, to be present; he and myself were the only ones there besides the family. 

At Pearsall Smith's request I sang, the old man, with his white locks, listening attentively. 
After I had finished one piece he said to me: "Will you please sing that over again?" So 
I sang the hymn, "What hast Thou done for me?" again to please him — 

"1 spent long years for thee 

In weariness and woe, 
That one eternity 

Of joy thou mightest know! 
I spent long years for thee, for thee, 

Hast thou spent one for me?'' 

The father of seventy years was weeping as I closed. "Let us pray," said Alfred Cook- 
man. They all knelt, and he did pray for the old man's salvation ; and that prayer was heard 
above! Then and there the old man had born within him a hope of eternal life. He gave 
himself up to Christ, who had given His life for him, as the hymn said, and we all rejoiced 
together. Speaking aside to Pearsall Smith in the course of the evening, 1 said: "How 
strange this is!" "Why so?" he returned; "I expected it, just as I wrote you, for I felt that 
God would honor the means." This was one of the happiest evenings of my life, for it was 
one of soner and salvation. 




OCEAN GROVE, NEW JERSEY. 



From Philadelphia I made for Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, to sing at a reunion 
conference of Methodist ministers. This convention is associated in my recollection with very 
happy memories. I met with a most appreciative reception at the hands of both the confer- 
ence and the press ; but, better than this, my work was owned by Him whose divine approval 
far outvalues every earthly triumph. No less than three persons wrote to me after that con- 



42 



IN THE WEST. 



ference, dating their conversion to it, and ascribing their change of heart to the gospel of 
my songs. New Jersey is an old place for America; Fins, Swedes, and English being among 
its earlier settlers. From this mixed ancestry has developed that quaint character — a "Jersey- 
man " — who is famous every-where for his oddity. In the last century the State constitution 
of New Jersey provided for universal suffrage; white and black, male and female, sharing 
equally the privilege. This, however, has been considerably modified since. 

At Ocean Grove, this State, I conducted a song jubilee for a week. From this delightful 
place I proceeded to the coal-fields in the Juniata valley, receiving a hearty reception from 
the citizens of Altoona, which seems to be a mountain railroad center ; at Mauch Chunk, the 
Switzerland of America, where the railway cars are carried over the mountain by the force of 
gravity; at Scran ton, Wilkesbarre, Williamsport, and Pittston, in which latter place a mountain 
of coal has been burning for the last three years, and almost threatening to undermine the 
city itself. All these localities are the centers of immense coal interests, and beneath the soil 
on which they are built, and with which they are surrounded, lie great beds of anthracite 
coal, sufficient to furnish fuel for the whole world for centuries to come. Every-where in this 
section of the State my services were largely attended and well received. 

From thence I went on to Chambersburg, and then to Gettysburg, where the great and 
decisive battle of the Rebellion was successfully fought under General Meade. After a lengthy 
visit to the great battle-field, where so many of my countrymen yielded up their lives, I re- 
turned to the city and gave my evening's service of song ; but during its exercises I could 
almost imagine I heard, the sounds of the carnage which so lately filled the air where now I 
was singing the hymns of peace and love. 

Shortly after my visit to this great battle-ground, we started upon our tour around the 
world, and as the important points intervening between here and St. Louis have been already 
described, I must ask the attention of my readers to the metropolis of Missouri. 




ST. LOUIS BRIDGE OVER THE MISSOURI. 



Missouri can boast one of the largest, and, perhaps, for its size, one of the wealthiest cities 
in America, having a population of over 500,000 souls, and of vast commercial importance 
to the South-west and the world. St. Louis is finely situated on the west bank of the great 
Mississippi River; and had its citizens possessed the driving spirit of enterprise which char- 
acterizes those of Chicago, it could not have failed to become preeminently above all others 
the great commercial center of export and import for our Western world. Here the Missis- 
sippi is spanned by the longest and finest bridge in the United States, connecting the Illinois 
and Missouri shores, over which passes an almost constant stream of railway, passenger, and 
freight cars, as well as vehicles and foot passengers, while the city proper is so tunneled that 



/.V Till: HAS/: 



43 



passengers and freight pass under it in transit to and from the far West without change or 
transfer. 

From St. Louis we pass on to Jefferson City, the capital of the State of Missouri, and 
thence to Kansas City, which appears to be grandly struggling to become the gate city to 
the great South-west, whose high bluffs are gradually being leveled by the enterprising people 
of this fast-growing city. Thence I went on to Sedalia and St. Joseph, which latter is, per- 
haps, the wealthiest city in this portion of the State, and which is cpiite jealous of its rival, 
Kansas City. 






GARDEN OF THE GODS. 



My next stop was at Quincy, one of the liveliest cities in Illinois. We also visited Peoria, 
another thriving Illinois town. Rock Island is another flourishing city. Here is the Central 
United States Arsenal and Armory. Just opposite is the city of Davenport, the second city 
of Iowa; At the head of navigation, on the Des Moines River, is situated the city of Des 
Moines, the capital of Iowa. The next stop I made was at Council Bluffs. Here the great 
Missouri River bridge connects with Omaha, the largest city of Nebraska. It occupies a 



44 



THE PACIFIC COAST. 



beautiful plateau, rising gradually into bluffs, and has a population of over sixty thousand. 
Lincoln is the capital of Nebraska; and if I wanted to make any of our interior Western States 
my home, I would go to Lincoln. 



^W& 



Chapter VIII. — Colorado and the Pacific Coast. 



i^4> 




flllNCE more in motion, I di- 
rected my steps toward Col- 
^2 orado and the Pacific Coast; 
and, in doing so, had the 

great pleasure of traveling in 

the delightful reclining cars on 

the Union Pacific Railway with 

a number of Christian friends, 
which included my family, Dr. and 
Mrs. Vincent, and Mr. Moody. En- 
tering the State of Colorado, I visited 
Georgetown, Cheyenne, Greeley, and 
Denver. A short distance from here 
and we come to the Manitou Springs. 
The famous Pike's Peak, fourteen 
thousand three hundred feet high, 
commanding a view of many thousand 
square miles of mountain and plain, 
and into the Garden of the Gods, a 
tract of land about five hundred acres 
in extent, bordered by ravines which 
shut it in entirely from the plains. 
The rocks are upheaved into fantastic 
shapes, some of them rising in a per- 
pendicular position to a height of three 
hundred feet. 

Passing rapidly on to the territory of Utah, with its popualtion of over two hundred thou- 
sand, and Ogden, the half-way city on the overland route to the Golden Gate. Here Brother 
Moody, feeling a strong desire to preach to the Mormons of Salt Lake City, preceded us 




MORMON TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY. 



iSifiL 
M 




MORMON TABERNACLE, SALT LAKE CITY. 



thither to make arrangements, and secure the use of the old Mormon Tabernacle, the new 
one being refused for all Gentile purposes. Dr. Vincent and myself joined him on Saturday 



SALT LAKE CITY. 






evening; but, although the building had been secured, there seemed no possible way of 
advertising the occasion; but the Lord made all things easy in the following manner: On 
Sunday morning we three friends visited the Mormon schools, where we found one of my 
music-books in use; and, my presence being announced, I was asked to sing, which I prom- 
ised to do after Mr. Moody had spok- 
en. Going from thence we attended 
service in the new Tabernacle, where, 
after a two-hours' address by Orson 
Pratt, the Mormon apostle, one of the 
elders said: "Brother Pratt, you've 
preached long enough;" and the su- 
perintendent of the school we had just 
left added: "We've got Philip Phil- 
lips here, from New York, and many 
of us would like to hear him sing." 
Upon this I was invited forward; but 
there being no instrument I merely 
told the people that if they wanted to 
hear me they must attend the service 
that was to be held afterwards in the 
old Tabernacle. This was the only 
announcement that was possible; but 
as there were ten thousand people 
present, it was more than enough. 
Upon hearing the name of the old 
Tabernacle, several people called out: 
"Why not the new? the old one is 
too small ; " and it was immediately 
arranged that the service should be 
held in the very place that had been 
previously refused for it, and an audience of eight thousand was secured in the only possible 
way. Such was an early result of Mr. Moody's faith, which afterwards accomplished so much 
both in England and America. 

Again we seated ourselves in a comfortable parlor car, and went speeding over the broad 
plains, through the flickering light and darkness of the snow-sheds, erected to guard the line 
against destruction by snow-slides. These sheds are like tunnels, and interrupt the view of 
some of the most romantic scenery on the line. Through tunnels and gulches, and along 
the brow of ravines and precipices our iron pathway takes us until we reach San Francisco. 




SNOW-SHED, I'KION PACIFIC RAILROAD. 



Chapter IX. — Through the Golden Gate. 






!4p3flf!^'T was on tne eighth of March that we once more bade our California friends adieu; 
and, being nicely located on board the staunch steamer Cyphrenes, set sail for the 
largest island in the world — Australia; the we in the case being myself, my wife, 
and my two sons. From childhood a charm has been associated with the name 




of Australia. The word is from the Latin australis, signifying "southern." A strange- 
ness and far-offness has always lingered in the meaning of the word ; and no books 
on the subject, nor any of the occasional newspaper accounts — although I have latterly 
perused not a few> — have ever fully dispelled the sense of isolation and weirdness rep- 
resented by the musical syllables — Australia. 

The anchor weighed, the ropes cast from the moorings and hauled in, the gangway drawn 
which separates us from friends and native land, slowly we glide away from the wharf — 
past Alketras Island and Seal Rock, down through the Golden Gate ; while the waving hand- 
kerchiefs of our dear friends, growing fainter and fainter to our sight, now become as tiny 
white specks upon the horizon of our vision, and finally disappearing altogether, make us alive 
to the reality of crossing the great Pacific. 

Our steamer was a good, strong ship, built on the River Clyde for the Eastern tea trade, 
owned in Liverpool, and well manned by English sailors. Its captain, Mr. Wood, was an 
excellent mariner. Among the officers we may mention specially the chief engineer, who, 



4 6 



ADIEU TO NATIVE LAND. 



being a teetotaler, was a world of comfort to us during the entire passage on account of his 
freedom from a vice to which so many who follow the high seas are addicted. The ship's 
surgeon, however, was directly the opposite of this gentleman, being profane in language, 
prolific in abuse, brutal in habit; and had not the captain placed him under guard on sev- 
eral occasions during the voyage, serious troubles might have resulted in consequence* of his 
overbearing disposition. As to his medical skill, evidently some special providence gave little 
or no opportunity of putting it to the test. 

Imagine yourself and family confined within the narrow limits of a ship, on a thirty-eight- 
days' passage on the pathless ocean, bound for a far land of which you know but little, 
accompanied by twenty-six passengers from almost as many different nations, whose principal 
pastime is gambling and drinking, and you will appreciate my condition. 




THROUGH THE GOLDEN GATE, CALIFORNIA. 



There was a complete sense of isolation from mankind to me in this voyage, as with my 
dear little family I occupied my time in reading, conversation, playing at quoits, and other 
simple pastimes, which served to relieve the monotony of sea life. 

Our steamer, although of staunch build, was not noted for speed, its average being about 
two hundred miles in twenty-four hours. On pleasant days we spent much time upon the 
deck. Here we watched the hundreds of sea gulls that circled round and round the ship on 
graceful wing in quest of food that might be thrown to them, while they wildly screamed in 
their attempts to preserve their maritime rights, one against the other, in gaining possession 
of the same. But the sailors told us we were soon to lose sight of our aerial companions, 
as these birds would cease to follow us when our prow began to part the waters of mid-ocean. 

The habits of the flying fish also afforded us much amusement, as they suddenly started 
up from the waves in shoals, and alighted again about two hundred yards away. It is said 
that the larger fish chase them, and that the good Creator has bestowed upon them this won- 
derful power to escape from the pursuit of their implacable enemies. I would that humanity 
were possessed of such a gracious gift wherewith to baffle and fly away from the clutches of 
temptation ! These singular fish are from four to eight inches in length, and glisten like pieces 



CROSSING J III'. PACIFIC. 



■J 



of burnished silver as they dart through the air about ten feet above the water. It often 
happens that they fall upon the decks of vessels, and are accounted most delicious food. 

With beautiful moonlight nights and wooing breezes we began to feel the warmer breath 
of the tropics fanning our cheeks. The sea gull had been left behind; and that large brown 
bird, the albatross, measuring several feet from tip to tip of wing, had taken its place as ocean 
mendicant. On our first Sabbath on the Pacific, at eleven o'clock in the morning, the captain 
read the service on deck, but it seemed cold and heartless. How the Christian heart loves 
to whisper into the Infinite ear its almost infinite necessities, communing with the great Father 
in the warmth of child-like affection, unchilled by the fanaticism of stereotyped prayer; and 
how thankful were we on board this good ship that the "Ever-present" is also the "ever 
readv " to hear and bless his children ! 




HONOLULU, SANDWICH ISLANDS. 



After a smooth passage of ten days, at two o'clock in the morning, we were safely moored 
in the peaceful harbor of Honolulu. Late in the afternoon we had passed Maui to our ex- 
treme left, but were too far distant to behold her luxuriant tropical growth of fruit, flower. 
and foliage. Soon after we were passing through the Molokai Channel, but it was so late 
that we could only see the volcanic cliffs of Oahu, of which Honolulu is the capital, faintly 
outlined by the moonlight. Rounding Diamond Head at about midnight, rockets were sent 
up to signal pilots that they might come on board and take our ship safely through the hidden 
reefs and coral beds, so plentiful in the beautiful bay of the metropolis of this famous island 
group. 

Landing at the unseasonable hour of three o'clock in the morning, we proceeded to the 
only hotel on the island, and which is under the management of the government. Here we 
found every room occupied; but the clerk kindly vacated and prepared his own room for 
our accommodation that we might take a short rest ; and for about two hours our little family 
quartette lay crosswise on one bed and soundly slept. When we awakened in the early morn- 
ing, and looked out upon our surroundings, it seemed as though we had been suddenly 
transported into an earthly paradise of fresh fruits, beautiful flowers, and rare exotics. At 
six o'clock we were agreeably surprised by a visit from the good Dr. Damon, the seamen's 
friend, one of the oldest missionaries upon the island, and known the world over by the 
mariners as the spiritual father of the children of the seas. His gentle tap at the door and 
a response from his lips brought me quickly to my feet, and I found him all aglow with hos 



HONOLULU, OR HARBOR OF REST. 



pitality, and anxious for a service of song before I should reembark. Ascertaining that our 
ship would remain in port for twenty hours, a service was accordingly arranged and adver- 
tised for six o'clock that afternoon, to be held at the Congregational Church, of which Rev. 
Dr. Friers was pastor. 

Now for a full day of sight-seeing in and about Honolulu, which then seemed to us the 
most enchanting spot that our eyes had ever rested upon. But, first of all, we desired to see 
Mrs. Thurston and Mrs. Webb, the dear old missionaries of more than thirty years' residence 
on these islands — the latter a sister of Dr. Thomas Hastings, of New York. Dr. Damon 
placed himself and his carriage at our disposal, and a kind stranger lent a fine riding-horse 
for James to follow us from behind; but he followed us as most boys do, by going on before, 
and secured to himself an amount of exercise in the saddle which nearly incapacitated him 
from keeping his feet when he dismounted. Never did we spend a more enjoyable day than 
here on this pioneer American missionary ground. 

Honolulu is a city of about 10,000 inhabitants, 4,000 of whom are, for the most part, 
Americans, and the balance natives. The 'latter are a noble-looking, large, and well-propor- 
tioned people, of about the same complexion as the 
North American Indian, cleanly in habit, and well 
dressed. Very little of the African type is visible in 
their features. The women are of large build and 
good-looking, and wear long dresses, hanging loose 
from neck to feet. 

It has often been stated that the natives were 
once cannibals, but the more intelligent people here 
deny the charge, and assert that it is incapable of 
proof. It is true, however, that fifty years ago this 
people were uncivilized, and living in heathenish 
darkness ; and we can not but be grateful that God 
ever put it into the hearts of some of New England's 
sons and daughters to try to do them good, and that 
He has blessed their efforts so signally. 

During the forty years that the Hawaiian lan- 
guage has been written and printed, school-houses 
and churches have sprung up as plentifully, accord- 
ing to the population, as in the United States; and 
I have been informed that as large a proportion of 
the people can read and write as in either England 
or America. It is estimated that there are about 
sixty thousand inhabitants on all the islands of the 
group; but it is authoritatively stated that, for the 
last twenty years, the native population has steadily 
decreased. 

The principal product of these islands is sugar, 
and it is believed that in no part of the world can 
so large a crop be raised to the acre as here. Up 
to the time of my visit, the planters had labored under the great disadvantage of not having 
a market for this crop near home, the expense of transportation to distant parts leaving the 
grower but little profit, if any at all. In the year 1875 the king, Kalakaua, made an ex- 
tensive visit to the United States, and by his genial and winning manner and diplomatic skill 
so managed his suit as to induce our government to pass the Hawaiian sugars through our 
customs free — or nearly so — from duty. Now the islands are more prosperous than ever be- 
fore ; and this great triumph of the king, in the interests of his subjects, has made him ex- 
ceedingly popular. 

As we were driving past the king's palace, we observed a collection of natives in front 
of the main entrance, who, upon alighting from our carriage and going near, we learned were 
singing the king's welcome home again, he having returned only a day or two previous from 
his visit to America. Several hundred of them had also come bearing little tokens of regard 
to their king, such as eggs, potatoes, cabbage, money, and any thing by which they might 
express their loyalty to their sovereign, and their joy and gladness at his return. We were 
much interested in witnessing this devotion of the people to their ruler, and in gazing upon 
his great piles of vegetable gifts, as well as listening to the Hawaiian festivities, partaking so 
thoroughly of the aboriginal custom of celebrating this event." 




HAWAIIAN WOMEN. 



HONOLULU, OR HARBOR OF REST. 49 

The king, having observed us near his palace, came to the front door and invited us to 
•enter, which courtesy we gladly accepted. 1 had a very enjoyable chat with his majesty, in 
the course of which he expressed himself as having been very much pleased with every thing 
which came to his notice during his recent visit to America. He speaks the English lan- 
guage fluently, is a good conversationalist, and is seemingly as thoroughly polite and intelli- 
gent as any of our members of Congress. 

From the palace we went to the House of Parliament, a fine structure, whose walls were 
tastefully adorned with pictures, having for their subject the history of the island. We also 
visited one of the native churches, having seating capacity for at least twenty-five hundred 
people, where the gospel is preached in the Hawaiian language. Without doubt no field of 
labor has shown a greater success in answer to missionary effort than this, and all in the short 
space of forty years. 

The tropical fruits are of the finest quality and in great abundance; the oranges and 
bananas are luscious and beautiful. The chief food of the natives is poie. a vegetable some- 
what resembling our potato, which is prepared for "eating in the form of a batter, and sold 
in the public streets. The hospitality of the people is unbounded, and one of their most 
striking characteristics. It is not unusual for them to vacate their own apartments for the 
accommodation and entertainment of strangers. 

Some of the residences are equal in beauty and elegance to many found in Europe or 
America, and are embellished with fine grounds, adorned with flowers and shrubbery. Of 
these we particularly noticed the palatial homes of several wealthy Chinese merchants. We 
dined with Mr. H. M. Whitney, the editor and publisher of the daily newspaper, a large book- 
seller, and one of the most influential citizens of the island, from whom we gathered much 
information concerning the islands and their population. Perhaps Mr. John Waterhouse has 
the finest residence in Honolulu, to which we were invited after my service of song, and par- 
took of one of the most luxurious repasts ever spread for the refreshment of the body. Dur- 
ing the hour which we spent at his stable in the enjoyment of the good English cooking and 
rare delicacies of confection and fruit, he set his music boxes in play and his birds to singing, 
while he discoursed of religious works and enterprises with his soul full of evangelistic ardor. 

Evening came on apace, and had I not been so weary in body, I really should have 
felt myself in an earthly paradise, the people were so cordial, loving, and kind, while these 
fair islands looked as beautiful and peaceful as the gardens of the Lord. Then came to me 
an almost overmastering desire to rest for a time among the Sandwich Islanders, and sing 
the new song of our Savior- King to the curious inhabitants who had been transformed from 
paganism by the power of the gospel, and of sharing the joys of salvation with the missionaries 
and Christianized multitude. 

• At my only service of song at Honolulu was a large audience of English-speaking people, 
to whom I sang as well as I could for an hour, with the soft tropical breeze fanning my 
cheeks, and the distant roar of the waves of the old ocean falling upon my ears. The assem- 
blage listened to my songs with deep attention, one of the natives expressing himself con- 
cerning them as being "so restful." Never have I spent a more intensely interesting and 
enjoyable day than the one just closed upon this island, so memorable in connection with the 
murder of Captain Cook, the great sea explorer, but now filled with intelligence and gospel 
liberty, and perhaps the most quiet, peaceful spot on earth. 

Our ship berths brought us the sweetest repose after this eventful day; and next morning 
when we arose the lovely Oahu was out of sight. At the breakfast-table we missed four of 
our former fellow-passengers, but in their place had gained another — a fine-looking young 
man about twenty-six years of age, well dressed and of prepossessing appearance. So quiet 
and reticent in manner was this gentleman that for several days we thought that he might 
be a young clergyman seeking health, recreation, or knowledge by foreign travel. A few 
days after my wife said to me, "AVhy does our friend look so wild and singular, evidently 
seeking to avoid every one upon the deck?" This strangeness soon became so noticeable 
that we made inquiries of the captain as to its cause, and learned to our great sorrow that he 
had been indulging in intoxicating drink, and was suffering from an attack of delirium tremens, 
that fearful disease which is so sure to attack all who become a prey to the pernicious habit 
so fatal to the highest interests of humanity, both in this world and that which is to come. 
We further learned that this unfortunate young man was the only child of a wealthy Catholic 
widow, who had fitted him out for a voyage from San Francisco to Australia in order to sep- 
arate him from the evil companions with which he associated in the former city; that on account 
of his inebrieties he had been put ashore at Honolulu from the vessel in which he originally 
embarked, and that he had taken our boat to complete his trip. Alas! if that mother could 



5° 



NEW ZEALAND. 



have seen him then, battling with wild hallucinations and struggling to escape the clutches- 
of imaginary demons, all hope would have died in her heart. The evil conduct of the ship's- 
surgeon urging him to drink when orders had been given to withhold it from him, and thoughts 
of that poor mother who loved him, drew us toward this unfortunate man in kindly sympathy, 
for he had finally become so delirious that it was necessary to place a watch over him. 

One Sabbath evening as we were singing hymns in the cabin, he suddenly jumped up- 
from his - chair, and exclaiming, "I am not going down with this ship!" ran swiftly up the 
companion way and leaped overboard. The women shrieked and swooned with fear, the- 
great engines were brought to a standstill, the boat was lowered, and three sailors went out 
in the darkness of the night in search of him. In about thirty minutes, filled with anxious- 
suspense to those in waiting, he was discovered and brought on board in an insensible con- 
dition, and the greater part of the night was spent in resuscitating him and saving his life. 

When he came to his senses he said: "Well, I've been with the devil three months, and 
I did not like it, and so came back." The dangerous sea-bath had a good effect upon him, 
however; and he became more and more frightened at his narrow escape from drowning as- 
his mind grew clearer, and entreated us to watch over him, which we did until we reached 
Auckland, New Zealand. Since that time we have neither seen nor heard from him. How 
true it is that there is no bondage so galling and so degrading as that of intemperance, whose 
ways take hold on death ! 




AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND. 



The evenings on deck were lovely, and atoned, in part, for the heat and the severe- 
blowing of the trade winds during the day. The sea was very quiet as we sailed along with 
nothing to attract our attention but the appearance of a large white bird called the Boatswain. 
The day after crossing the equator we observed a little brown land-bird hovering about the- 
ship, which had evidently followed some vessel out to sea and become lost; like those human 
beings who have been lured from duty and home by some object, which to their blinded im- 
aginations promised profit and pleasure, but has proved the veriest will-o'-the-wisp, and left 
them homeless and shelterless on the ocean of life. 

We have felt often in our history that we had lost a day especially wherein we had failed 
to do some work for Jesus and our fellow-man. But now we have really experienced the loss 
of twenty-four hours out of the calendar of time. Yesterday was Friday, March 5th, when 
we crossed the one hundred and eightieth meridian; and to-day is not Saturday but Sunday, 
March 7th. We are half way round the world, and the chronometer at Greenwich marks 
eight o'clock at night, the very hour in which our clock marks the hour of eight in the 
morning. Practically we have lost but just half a day; but should we continue on to Green- 
wich, making the same discrepancy of time, we should lose the other half; and the scientific 
world has decided that one full day is totally blotted out on the one hundred and eightieth. 
meridian. 



AUSTRALIA, THE LAND OF GOLD. 51 

We are now sailing beneath new skies, having exchanged the North Star and the Big 
Dipper for what is to us a most beautiful constellation, the Southern Cross. It is composed 
of five fixed stars in the shape of a cross, four of which shine with wonderful brilliancy in 
the southern heavens, and by this the mariners steer their course. The nights are most en- 
chanting, the waters gleam with phosphorescent light in the wake of our ship, and the moon- 
light touches the dark waves as with pencils of light and glory. 

After seventeen days' voyaging we came in sight of New Zealand at three o'clock in 
the afternoon, and anchored at Auckland, an English-looking city of about twenty five thou- 
sand inhabitants. We were met at the wharf by Rev. Mr. Baker and two other prominent 
citizens; were shown the principal streets and buildings, and after we had spent a pleasant 
evening in song, prayer, and conversation, we again took ship at eleven o'clock the same 
evening. Just before the anchor was weighed a party of friends came on board bearing a 
large basket of peaches, figs, fresh butter, and other delicacies for our comfort and refresh- 
ment, gave me an earnest invitation to come and give them fifty evenings of song-service on 
my return homeward, and bade us good-bye. 

Sailing over the calm, hot waste of waters, where the sun quivers in direct beams upon 
the placid expanse, and where the air is sluggish in the oppressive noons, we slowly ap- 
proached the shores of the mysterious island-continent. Day by day the temperature changed 
until the mornings became delightful, the torrid heats receded behind us, and we had solved 
the mystery known as the "Sunny South." We had penetrated through the very pulsing 
heart of that problem. The southerly skies now indicated a cooler and pleasanter climate. 
The spirits of the weary voyagers took courage. Here and there along the level horizon 
appeared strange islands, rimmed with coral reefs and set in tufted palms. The color of the- 
sea assumed a deeper hue, the heavens arched in clearer and ampler grandeur as we ad- 
vanced, and at length our good steam-ship was anchored within sight of the long-expected 
haven. 




Chapter X.— Australia, the Land of Gold. 

PEsPIFm MEDIATELY upon landing w r e were most kindly met by Rev. J. C. Symons, ex- 
Mayor Crouch, and S. G. King, representatives of the committee under whose 
auspices I had undertaken this journey to the great far-off. Victoria, of which 
Melbourne is the capital, and which is the most southern of the Australian colonies, 
was discovered in 1802, by Lieutenant John Murray. Its geographical position gives 
it a much better title to the appellation of "South Australia," than its sister colony, 
which bears that title, hardly any portion of the latter being as far south as the most 
northerly portion of Victoria. 
Melbourne has a population of about three hundred thousand, and was named after Lord 
Melbourne, who was Premier of Great Britain when the city was founded some forty years 
ago. It is a monument of what wealth and enterprise can do in so short a space of time, 
abounding in costly public works and magnificent edifices, which rival those of the older 
capitals of Europe. Its principal thoroughfares are a mile in length by ninety-nine feet in 
width, and run at right angles, being intersected by smaller streets, which also bear the names 
of the larger with the prefix of "little." 

Elizabeth Street is laid out at the base of the two principal hills or eminences on which 
the city is built, and divides it into "East" and "West." This street is very low, and some- 
times in rainy weather becomes the bed of an angry torrent, and quite impassable to foot 
passengers. 

The city proper is situated on the banks of the Yarra-Yarra, or "ever-flowing" river, 
eight miles from the sea by water, and two and one-half by land. It is connected by rail- 
road with Sandridge, its seaport, which is at the head of Hobson's Bay, and where massive 
piers extend far out into the water, alongside of which vessels of almost any tonnage can lie 
with safety. The Yan-Yean Reservoir supplies the inhabitants with abundant water of an 
excellent quality. The Free Library contains over one hundred and fifty thousand volumes, 
and the Athenaeum twelve thousand three hundred and fifty-six. The most noteworthy 
structures are the Houses of Parliament, Government buildings, the Post-office, Town Hall, 
the Exchange, the University, the Young Men's Christian Association building, Wesleyan 
Church, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Independent Church, and Baptist Chapel. It has a branch 
of the Royal Mint, a Royal Theater, and Opera-house, well-appointed public markets, good 
hospitals and institutions for the care of the aged, infirm and unfortunate, many fine hotels, 



52 



AUSTRALIA, THE LAND OF GOLD. 



four daily newspapers, two religious weeklies — the Spectator and Southern Cross — and quite a 
number of secular weeklies and monthly magazines. 

Australia is the largest island in the world. In dimensions and resources it is almost a 
continent, its extent being from east to west two thousand five hundred and forty, and from 
north to south one thousand six hundred miles, compassing an area of two million nine hun- 
dred and seventy-five thousand square miles. This vast domain lay unknown in the bosom 
of the ocean, untouched by the foot of civilization, for more than two hundred years after 
Columbus landed upon an island of the New World; but like America it was a prize awarded 
to the perseverance of a Spanish navigator, for Louis Vaez Torrez, commanding an expedition 




[iOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE 



from Peru, was the original discoverer of Australia. He landed upon its coast in 1605, al- 
though the Dutch descried its northern borders from the ship Duyfcn early the next year. 

Australia is indeed a remarkable land. There are but few ocean indentures or bays; 
and for a thousand miles of its southern coast there is not one permanent river. The streams 
are swollen and muddy in the rainy season, and run dry the rest of the year, the winds raising 
clouds of dust from their sandy beds. The trees are scattered in the forests like the trees 
of an orchard or park, and such as bear leaves are evergreen. The foliage is leathery and 
less beautiful than that of our own country. There are but few tangled or compact forests, 
such as abound in North and South America, while springs of sparkling cold water are of 
rare occurrence. The plants are abundant, varied, and often magnificent in their array of 
blossoms. 



AUSTRALIA, THE LAND OF GOLD. 



53 



British convicts were sent to this remote frontier to serve their years of penalty for crime- 
in utter isolation and hardship. These outlaws were indeed rough pioneers to develop the 
possibilities of a new country; but Christian missionaries and teachers speedily followed the 
forced immigration, and were soon alongside of the criminals; and the gospel made conquests 
over the stubborn hearts of the convicts, as well as over the wandering and benighted souls 




INTERIOR OF PUBLIC LIL'RARY. MELBOURNE. 



of the natives. After groups of felons came colonies of honest settlers from Great Britain 
and from Holland. The cities of Sydney and Melbourne were planted; and now their splen- 
did streets stretch for miles along the once desolate wastes of a pagan wilderness, and the 
stranger meets as many evidences of enlightenment here as in the older communities on the 
Thames, the Tweed, or the Zuyder Zee. But the population of the towns is mostly British. 
The habits of the people are strikingly similar to those of England. Australia might be cabed 



54 



MELBOURNE. 



another New England with the characteristic Yankee left out. There is no disposition to rebel 
against the Crown, or to change any of the peculiarities which every-where in the British 
dominions stand for loyalty to the Queen. 

But I set foot upon this land as an evangelist of sacred song, and not as a tourist, stat- 
istician, speculator, or adventurer. While I enjoyed the scenery, studied the history and 
geography, and read the current events with real interest, still my mission was to sing. 

It was an anxious time for me, the commencement of my Australian campaign. The 
press had announced me in generous words ; and even the mayor of Melbourne had given 
me a formal welcome in the great Town Hall. The "committee of noble Christian men, under 
■whose auspices I came from the United States, were all full of excitement, wondering whether 
the novel experiment would prove a success, or whether they might be involved in consider- 
able pecuniary loss. It was but human nature to express anxiety under such circumstances. 
It was an hour of unusual concern to myself and family, as well as to the friends who had 
assumed the responsibility of introducing song-sermons into Australia. 

With an earnest prayer, and my heart beating rather irregular time, I ascended the plat- 
form of the Wesleyan Church at my first meeting, fronting as attractive an audience as ever 




WESLEVAN CHURCH, MELBOURNE. 



assembled anywhere. I felt something like a Botany Bay convict, gauging my own resources 
by the evident demands of the hour. And yet I knew that divine grace makes liberty for 
heart and tongue and pen whenever and wherever faith takes hold upon the promises. 

I was pleasantly introduced to the two thousand listeners by the Rev. John Harcourt, 
the President of the Wesleyan Conference, amid demonstrations of kindly greeting, which gave 
courage to deliver my message here as I had often tried to do in distant lands. 

Two of the morning papers — the Age and the Post — spoke very favorably of the meet- 
ing, and one pronounced emphatically against it as an unwarrantable innovation. 

My first ride in the country was a trip to Ballarat, one hundred miles by rail from Mel- 
bourne, although the distance in an air-line is but sixty-five miles. The route bears south- 
westward for half the distance, skirting the Bay of Port Philip, to Geelong on Corio Bay. 

It will be remembered that in 1857 near this place was found the great nugget of gold 
valued at fifty thousand dollars. A model of this rich treasure is on exhibition at the British 
Museum. No wonder such an attraction brought thousands of people from the cities to the 
Bush, as the Melbourne people call the country. 

The yield of gold is gradually decreasing, and the population of Ballarat is probably less 
at present than ten years ago, but it is still a busy, beautiful city of near sixty-five thousand 
souls. The once comely hills surrounding the place bear marks of the gold-diggers, being- 
grooved, broken, and yellow. The impetuous dash for money always mars the peaceful aspects 
of nature. 

The railroads of Australia are conducted after the English plan, and built in an equally 



VICTORIA. 



55 



substantial manner. There are no doubtful embankments, no flimsy trestles, nor any perilous 
curves. Science has had a voice, and genuine economy a hand in every mile of the system. 

At the station I was kindly met and escorted to the home of George Smith, Esq., across 
the Park Lake, a charming spot indeed. On my way to the hospitable mansion of this new- 
found friend, I was pointed out the beauties of the city, such as the Town Hall, Opera-house, 
Park Lake, and Botanical Gardens. The Australian gardens excel all others I have seen in 
luxuriant foliage, brilliant flowers, and varied forms. 1 will not except our New York Central 
Park, or the parks of London or Paris. This great island of the southern seas has a climate 
peculiarly prolific of vegetable perfections. Nowhere else have I ever beheld such exquisite 




GEELONG, AUSTRALIA. 



displays of the beautiful in form and hue and texture. I doubt whether the gardens of Sol- 
omon excelled these of the newest of the new worlds. The foliage of Tyre and Damascus 
in its prime could not have been more enchanting. Here were leaves in infinite variety — 
ovate, serrate, spiral, palmate, lobed, and cleft. Here were the finest interlacings of fiber and 
vein, living leaves, jeweled with diadems of dew, and armed with shining spears before the 
sun. Here were velvet and mossy leaves, gossamer and oval leaves, pendants and blades 
and spines, colored in emerald, in crimson, in purple, in white. Here were ferns in infinite 
variety, tendrils clinging to posts, curtain-leafed vines arching overhead, ground ivy, strange 
grasses — all seeming to live on air and dew and light. There was something almost spiritual 
in the magnificent array. The only thing lacking in the gardens was the odor; this being 
deficient in some degree even in the most beautiful flowers. 

The principal street in the city is very wide, with a long, narrow park in the middle, 



56 



MINING DISTRICTS OF A USTRALIA. 



and large, stately trees growing on each side with a pebbled high-way made double by the 
intervening and ornamental park. 

My next week was spent in the country; and I gave my first service in Geelong, a 
town of some thirty thousand inhabitants, which is beautifully situated on Corio Bay, forty- 
five miles distant from Melbourne by rail. It is noted for its fine public and private build- 
ings, excellent harbor, public baths, and woolen mills ; and the surrounding country is laid 
out in farms, vineyards, and orchards. Here the first woolen mill in Victoria was built, and 
received the government award of one thousand five hundred pounds. It was for some time- 
considered the second city in A'ictoria, but has been dispossessed of this preeminence by 
Ballarat. It is built on an inclined plane or smooth side hill, and presents a most picturesque 
appearance either from the bay or from the hills above. The botanical gardens and parks of 
this town are beautiful beyond description. The former are cultivated by a most experienced 
man and noble Christian, Mr. J. Radensburg, who presented Mrs. Phillips on our departure 
from the place, with a bouquet of rich exotic flowers, and a package containing many varie- 
ties of choice seeds. The botanical gardens of this island are undoubtedly the most luxuriant 
in the world, the climate being peculiarly adapted to their culture, while in most of them are 
to be found fine collections of animals. 




MINING DISTRICTS OF AUSTRALIA. 



My next visit was to Castlemaine and the old gold-fields. This town has about eighteen 
thousand inhabitants, and is the locality where gold was first discovered in Australia, and 
was for a long time its most important mining field. Its streets are well laid out, it is quite 
notable in public buildings, its water-works are fine and very costly, and it has a spacious: 
market building. The entire surface of the locality has been dug over and over again in 
search of the precious metal. The ground in the vicinity is a mixture of red earth and gravel. 
Vine-growing and wine-making are carried on to a considerable extent. Rev. Mr. Daniels, 
my polite host, pointed out to me many fine vineyards, but informed me that the district 
relied principally on its mining and agricultural resources for its prosperity. My services 
were held in the theater* The audience was very attentive to the service, and at its close 
many of them desired me to come again, and give them more information of America and 
my travels about the world. 

The people of Australia are more demonstrative than the English or the Americans. 
They are scarcely willing to desist from outward manifestations of approbation even when re- 
quested. 

My next service was at Sandhurst, where I was entertained in a princely manner by 
Captain Williams, a brother-in-law of the famous gold miner, John Watson. This genial host 
took me through and over the great quartz-mills, where the massive machinery ground the 
rock into a dust as fine as flour, from which other machinery extracted every particle of the 
muclvprized metal. 



.Y.! 77 / E . I ( SV A'. I /./.!. VS. 



57 



A stroll through the city markets with Captain Fletcher, who pointed out many objects 
of interest, amused me for awhile; but my observations did not aid me in the work of singing 
with the spirit. Noisy crowds and dram and gambling shops were on every hand, the rich 
and dazzling specimens shone in many windows, while every thing seemed to be wrapped in 
a blaze of gold and glitter. I was grateful when Sunday came, 

"Sweet clay, of all the week the best." 

From this point I reached the banks of the River Murray, the largest and longest of the 
few navigable rivers of Australia, the rarity of which is the greatest obstacle in the opening 




THE KIVEK MURRAY, AUSTRALIA. 



up of the country. This river is one thousand one hundred and twenty miles in length, but 
is only navigable for small boats and barges. It is a low, muddy, sluggish stream, the ap- 
proaches being infested with venomous serpents, and upon its banks in the interior live, in 
the rudest state, the aboriginal Australians. They are a swarthy race, quite distinct from the 
Malay and African types, with coarse, bushy hair, short, attenuated figures/ and, in their nat- 
ural state, low, degraded, weak, and miserable. They are certainly one of the meanest races 
on the face of the earth, a perfect description of whom would baffle even Darwin himself. 
Some of the tribes are cannibals. Even these, however, have been rescued by the power of 
the gospel, and here and there have begun the better life. But only by patient processes of 
education, by methods which shall attract and win and ultimately hold these heathen masses, 
can there be any hope of success. 

My next service was held just over the River Murray in Albury; and after a ride of 
one hundred and fifty miles I was kindly met at the station by Dr. H. B. Hutchinson. After 
quite a routine of examination in getting my organ through the customs, I was driven to 
my host's neat home, over which presided one of his prepossessing and intelligent daughters. 

The next morning I returned to Victoria, to visit what is termed the Ovens District, and 
after a ride of ten miles reached Beechworth, a town of four thousand population. Here I 
was guest of the Rev. and Mrs. Flockheart. 

I next visited a village which bears the name of Eldorado, and is inhabited by about one 
thousand people. It is located on the banks of Reed's Creek, and is the center of a large 
mining district, being the only place in Victoria where tin ore is found. In my ride thither I 
stopped several times to converse with the miners, many of whom were Chinese, and to look 
at the precious stones which were exhibited by them. I found Eldorado a very quiet, lonely 
place, which seemed to me almost out of the world. Here I stopped over a Sabbath, and, 
though desiring to be with my family. I kept occupied. After my service I slept soundly 
on my little couch, over which hung a picture of the Rev. William Taylor. Thoughts that 
after a'.l I was treading in the footsteps of so good a man acted as a soothing balm to my 
spirit. 



58 



MODEL SUNDAY-SCHOOL INSTITUTE. 



I also visited the agricultural town of Bunningyong, near the great gold-fields of Ballarat, 
with a population of three thousand. Here 1 was most cordially entertained by Mr. R. Allan, 
a Scotchman by birth. A few facts of his history are not unworthy of record here: Making 
his fortune in the earlier years of the island's settlement, he returned home to Scotland, with 
the intention of spending the remainder of his days in his native land. After spending some 
time in his old home, the spirit of Christian zeal began to light up his soul so brightly and 
fervidly that he again took ship for Australia, where he has ever since devoted his whole 
talent, time, and energy to Christian work. He has erected a model Sunday-school Institute, 
and, under his novel and successful methods of instruction, with a heart desperately in earnest, 
his labors have been and now are very fruitful. Nearly all o£ his flock have become Chris- 
tians, and a few among the number have been called to preach the glad tidings. He is 
known throughout the length and breadth of the colonies as the most devoted and successful 




NATIVE AUSTRALIANS. 



of Sunday-school teachers, and an earnest man of faith and good works. One of his school 
exercises is the writing of six questions upon a large slate in a plain, bold hand, and turning 
the same toward the school. Each scholar is also provided with a slate, upon which all write 
answers to these interrogations. Then the slates are gathered up, and each scholar's answers 
are drawn off into a book or report, for future reference. It will be seen at once that this 
exercise gives an interchange and expression of thought most interesting and instructive. 

From this point I returned to my dear ones at Melbourne, where I gave a song-sermon — 
the theme, "Sweetest Note of Praise," in the Rev. P. R. C. Usher's church. 

On Tuesday, June 22, I took the steamer Otway for Warnambool. On board this steamer 
I was pained to witness the terrible effects of strong drink on the part of a number of pas- 
sengers. One finely-dressed man became so thoroughly crazed under its influence as to com- 
pel his little son only eleven years of age to drink. One of the saddest sights I ever witnessed 
was the inebriated father forcing this drink upon the dear boy. 

The town of Warnambool, well built and cleanly, is a seaport, located on Lady Bay, and 
has a population of four thousand. Here I had a fine audience, who seemed to enjoy the 
service, and I was entertained by the Rev. Mr. Kings at the Wesleyan Home. From this 



CHASING KAXGAROOS. 



59 



place I was driven twelve miles in the rain and through the black mud to the little village of 
Karoit, where I remained for the night, having previously sung to a small but demonstrative 
audience. 

After a ride of five hours, rendered very unpleasant by the mud and rain, 1 came to 
the little town of McArthur, where 1 was invited to a splendid dinner prepared for me by 
Mr. Joseph Law, who, knowing I was to pass that way, gave me this most pleasant surprise. 




HEREFORDSHIRE CATTLE — AUSTRALIA. 



He said that he felt like an old acquaintance of mine, having known me a long time by my 
songs, many of which I found upon his piano. Going forward to Belfast I gave my next 
service to a large audience, but who I felt had but little sympathy for my peculiar role of song. 

A ride of fifty-two miles, in a sort of mud-barge stage, brought me to Hamilton, the 
metropolis of the western interior, and eminently an agricultural and grazing land. 

I shall never forget that ride. Coming as we did upon a flock of kangaroos, I was beset 
with the temptation to try and catch one of these nimble jumpers, and I ordered the stage 




FLOCK OF KANGAROOS. 



6o 



XEW SOUTH WALES. 



to halt, that 1 might try the experiment. Not until after the excitement was over did I 
realize the ridiculousness of the adventure. The whole flock were facing me when I entered 
upon the chase ; but the older members of the family soon put a hopeless distance between 
me and them by their immense leaps, which were imitated by their younger relations to such an 
extent as to completely baffle my hunter capabilities. One unsuspecting young kangaroo, how- 
ever, lingered behind, and seemed to be unmindful of my presence and intentions. Stealthily 
creeping upon him in the rear, I was about to clasp him in my arms as a captive, when, 
taking in my person and evident purpose, with long, swift bounds, he passed into the dis- 
tance like a fleeting cloud. Hunting the kangaroo is a sport engaged in by both men and 
women. They pursue them on horses at break-neck speed, riding over ditches and fences 
with impunity. 




Chapter XI. — Sydney. 

Y next detour from Melbourne was by steamer City of Adelaide for Sydney, the 

parent city of Australia and capital of the colony of New South Wales. We 

reached the beautiful harbor of Botany Bay (so-called from the numbers of new 

specimens of plants which were discovered there) at eleven o'clock, on the evening 

of the third day, and effected safe landing at Sydney. My first evening of song 

was given in the large Wesleyan Church, York Street, Rev. George Woolnough, M. A., 

pastor, as also chairman of the district and of my meeting. His remarks in introducing 

me were very apropos, making me feel at home and among friends, and I was enabled 




BIRD S-EYE VIEW OF SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA. 



to sing in excellent spirit and voice. As it was the Fourth of July, I took the liberty cf pre- 
suming somewhat on English delicacy by mentioning the fact. Three cheers were then pro- 
posed and given with hearty good will, and, with Hon. S. D. Hastings at my side, we closed 
the exercises, joined by the audience, with singing "God Save *"he Queen." The Sydney 



NEW SOUTH WALES. 



t>i 



Morning Herald, the oldest and leading paper in Australia, spoke of my service in detail, 
and in the most congratulatory terms. For several evenings following I sang in different 
portions of the city before large and enthusiastic audiences. 




YORK STREET CHURCH, SYDNEY. 



The staple industry of New South Wales seems to be sheep-raising. In some of the "sheep 
stations" from one to six million sheep may be found. The sheep are remarkable for quality, 
their wool being long and silky. 

In this far-off land we seem to experience a reverse of nature's laws, the hottest month 
being January, and the coldest July. In January hay is cut and wheat harvesting commences. 




SHEEP STATION, AUSTRALIA. 



On the morning of July 14th I set out for Bathurst, distant from Sydney one hundred 
and twenty miles, and twenty-five thousand feet above sea level. I had for my companion on 
this trip Rev. Dr. Kelynack — learned, eloquent, and devout, and considered by all who know 
him to be the Punshon of Australia. The journey was made on the most famous zigzag rail- 
road in the world, — over rocky wastes, steep canons, deep gorges, perpendicular crags, and 
wild hills. This route is one of the greatest triumphs of engineering science that has ever 



62 



NEW SOUTH WALES. 



been accomplished. With the great blue mountains in the distance, and the wonderful land- 
scape of earth and sky, it was the most delightful journey by rail that I experienced in the 
colonies. 

At length we reached the base of the hills, with which the lovely little town of Bathurst 
is surrounded, and saw it standing out in charming perspective upon a gently-sloping mountain 
plain. From the station I was driven to the delightful home of Hon. Mr. Webb, a member 
of the Provincial Parliament and mayor of the town. The grounds surrounding his res- 
idence are tastefully laid out with plots of shrubbery and flowering plants, fountains, and 
miniature lakes, in which latter beautiful black and white swans and other aquatic birds dis- 
ported. The kindness, thoughtfulness, and courtesy of this family, so thoroughly and effect- 
ively engaged in their several capacities in the forwarding of the Master's work, will never 
grow dim in my memory. Here I sang two evenings to large assemblies, and with good 
success, and took the return train to Sydney over the same picturesque route. 




SYDNEY HARBOR, AUSTRALIA. 



The next day an excursion was planned and carried out to show me Sydney harbor, which 
is regarded as the most picturesque in the world. Its deep, clear waters are studded with 
many charming little islands, which are covered with elegant villas, flower and fruit gardens. 
A trim little steamer had been chartered, and with the leading men of the AVesleyan Church 
and their wives on board, as also the mayor of the city, we moved off from the wharf, pro- 
vided with a bountiful and delicious supply of refreshments. We touched at several of the 
most beautiful of the islands, and at the Quarantine, at which latter a ship containing several 
hundred emigrants was just coming in from sea. Passing so near we threw on board oranges, 
cakes, and other dainties from our store ; and had it not been for the influence of an official 
in our behalf, we might have been quarantined with the newcomers, having scraped so close 
an acquaintance as to attract the attention of the governmental guardians of the health of the 
port. 

At length, amid good-byes and "God bless you" from the lips of many friends, and gifts 
of flowers and fruits from their hands, I departed for my steamer, preparatory to five hundred 



SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 



6j 



and sixty miles sail of sixty-three hours for Melbourne, greeted by a cloud of waving hand- 
kerchiefs, as I left the shore. Seven miles out what was my surprise and delight to see some 
friend come out upon the shore of a small island we were passing, and wave the stars and 
stripes in his good-bye, to remind me of my dear native land as the shore of this new land 
faded from my sight! 




POST-OFFICE, ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 



With smiling skies and favorable winds I was soon permitted to rejoin my family in Mel- 
bourne. On Monday, August 9, we took leave of our Melbourne home at Royal Terrace, 
and taking passage in the steamer Alhambra for Adelaide, in South Australia, moved off from 
the wharf at two o'clock, sailed up the river through St. Philip's Bay, and by nightfall were 
rockhig "in the cradle of the deep." The five hundred miles were accomplished after a 
oug'i passage of three days, and we were glad enough to reach harbor at Port Adelaide. 




BOTANICAL GARDENS, ADELAIDE. 



The city of Adelaide, the capital and seat of government of the colony, is built nearly 
in the form of a square, with its streets running at right angles, and is located on a large 
plain of the Mount Lofty range, which walls it on the eastern and southern sides. The entire 



64 



SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 



city is bordered by four grand terraces, sloping to the north, south, east, and west, which form 
a broad belt, or reservation of land, which entirely encompasses this beautiful metropolis. 
It is as it were a brilliant, wide ribbon of living greensward, surrounded with the finest of 
promenades, paths, and carriage-ways. This entire area is the property and under care of 




CLARENDON VINEYARD, NEAR ADELAIDE. 



the government, as are the beautiful paddocks and gardens lining each bank of the River 
Torrens, which runs between North and South Adelaide, and is crossed by two massive iron 
and two wooden bridges. No palatial edifices or great works of art could give the inviting 
effect of this intermarriage of civilization and nature, rendering the city's suburbs equally as 
charming and desirable as its centers, and giving its population health-laden breezes, quiet 
retreats from the noise and bustle of business, and recreation of soul and bod v. 




COLLINGROVE, NEAR ADELAIDE. 



The Botanical Gardens of Adelaide, arranged by their accomplished director, Dr. Richard 
Schomburgk, are admitted to be the finest in the Australian Colonies. When His Royal High- 
ness the Duke of Edinburgh was in Adelaide, he visited the gardens again and again, and 
always with increasing delight. 



./ MM; I'll-: S WELCOME. 



65 



Thousands of acres of vines have been planted in South Australia, and the manufacture 
of wine is now an established industry, though at first much prejudice was created against 
these wines because ill-made, immature, and unsound samples were sent home. 

Collingrove affords a fair specimen of a suburban residence in South Australia. Many 
of the suburban gardens are rich and beautiful, and vineyards and orangeries abound. When 
the fruit-trees are in bloom, or covered with the ripening fruit, they present a scene of rare 
beauty. 

Among the native birds of Australia may be mentioned the emu. It somewhat resembles 
the ostrich. When assailed it strikes obliquely backward with its foot with such force as to 
break a man's leg. The lyre bird is the most beautiful found in the Southern Hemisphere. 
The tail, which consists of sixteen feathers, is often ten feet long, and arranged in the shape 
of an ancient lyre. 

From Adelaide, with my son James, since deceased, I took stage for Kadina, one hun- 
dred miles distant — a fine little city of four thousand inhabitants, and noted for its rich mines 
of copper. My son and myself both enjoyed the style of staging, with two wheel-horses and 
three leaders, exchanging the horses for fresh ones every ten miles. Much of the country 
on the route was bushy and monotonous, although 
we often passed through large wheat-fields, some of 
which were one thousand acres in extent; and it is 
claimed that the best wheat in the world is grown 
in this locality. The gathering at my services was 
large, and seemed to be very satisfactory to the 
hardy, good people of this mining town. 

Another trip of one hundred and twelve miles 
brought us to Gawler, a pastoral and agricultural 
town, and the oldest established port in connection 
with the trade of the River Murray and its tribu- 
taries. Here we were entertained by Mr. Clem- 
ents, and sang to an audience of one thousand 
people. Thence we passed to Kapunda, noted for 
its copper mines and quarries of marble. Here 1 
was entertained by Hon. James Price and his ex- 
cellent family. 

A drive of forty miles, and I reached the neat 
little town of Clare, located among the hills and 
blue-gum trees, having a population of about three 
thousand, and famous for its cattle stations and 
stock-raising. As I was alighting from my carriage 
at the place appointed for me to sing, an Australian 
magpie suddenly struck up a distinct whistle to the 
exact tune of "Yankee Doodle's Come to Town," 
as if in welcome of my arrival. I afterward learned 
that an American resident had taught the singularly 

imitative little bird this popular air. I greatly enjoyed my next song-service at the famous 
Burra copper mines; as also my entertainment at the residence of Mr. E. Lipsett. 

On Wednesday forenoon, September 15th, we embarked at Melbourne for Tasmania in 
the steamer Dcrivent, and after sailing twenty-four hours reached the mouth of the river Tama 
at daybreak, and sailed up its waters seventy miles to its head at Launceston. The only in- 
cident of the voyage was the meeting of a small boat containing Captain Marshall and the 
almost starved crew of the shipwrecked sailing vessel City of Cambridge. These unfortunate 
men had nothing to eat but a scanty mess of salt pork, which they were cooking on a flat 
stone in the center of their little craft. We took them on board. 

Tasmania was discovered in 1642 by a Dutch navigator, Abel James Tasman, who was 
commissioned by Anthony Van Dieman, Governor-General of Batavia, to explore the conti- 
nent now called Australia, but then termed "the great unknown South Land," and who named 
it after his patron. Although known by several navigators, who had encounters with the 
hostile natives, it was not discovered to be separate from Australia until 1798, when Mr. Geo. 
Bass, a surgeon in the British Royal Navy, discovered the existence of a dividing channel. 
The first settlement was made at Hobart Town, and was followed by that at York Town and 
Launceston, and in 1813 its ports were opened to English commerce. The profits made on 
the first importations of English goods were enormous; and many men who have since counted 

5 




LYRE BIRDS OF SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 



66 TASMANIA, OR VAN DIEM AN' S LAND. 

their incomes by tens of thousands, and feasted royally at their own tables, made their first 
money by shouldering a peddler's pack. 

Tasmania is divided into eighteen counties, four of which are wholly unoccupied. The 
great Wellington range of mountains traverses the length of the island, and has been aptly 
termed the "backbone" of the colony. The loftiest eminence does not reach six thousand 
feet elevation. All portions of the country not occupied by primary ranges are generally 
hilly, the surface swelling into long and lofty ridges called "tiers," and viewed from an em- 
inence give to the landscape a very unequal and undulatory aspect. Where granite, quartz, 
and micaceous rock is found the soil is uniformly poor, while in the trap-rock districts, which 
cover many thousands of square miles, nearly all the best lands are found. Upon these lands- 
most of the population of the country is settled, and here alone agriculture flourishes and the 
live stock of the colony is supported. Passing from these, either east or west, settlements are 
few and far between, and the existence of man is hardly to be traced. The lands on which 
the forests stood — with musk, sassafras, silver wattle, laurel, palm, and massive gum-trees, to- 
gether with ferns and gorgeously beautiful flowering shrubs — are richest from the accumulated 
soil of ages of decaying vegetation. 

The city of Launceston has a population of about twelve thousand, and is at the head 
of the Tama River, and in the peninsula formed by the junction of the two rivers, the North 
and South Esk. Its appearance as seen on entering it riverward, with its profusely wooded 
background, its hills studded with pretty villas and majestic mountains in the distance, is ex- 
ceedingly picturesque. A pleasant feature is, that almost every residence, even in the heart 
of the town, has its well-stocked garden of fruits and flowers. In the spring white blossoms 
are so profuse as to give the impression that every thing is snow-clad, and they mingle their 
perfume with hawthorn and sweetbrier, which crop out over the fences in the highways and 
byways, while the sweet songs of migratory birds give a charming home aspect to the place. 
Launceston is supplied with abundance of water from St. Patrick River, flowing through an 
artificial tunnel to reservoirs on an eminence two miles above the city, being conveyed into 
the city by pipes. It has elegant public buildings and churches, a fine park, and its spacious 
botanical gardens are prettily laid out, adorned with fountains and conservatories, and filled 
with choice shrubbery and flowers. 

From Launceston we took the royal stage coach for Hobart Town, leaving at six o'clock 
in the morning, and arriving just after sunset. We were driven with great rapidity, and with 
frequent and fresh relays of horses, over a magnificent macadamized road-bed of one hundred 
and twenty miles in length, constructed by convicts in the earlier penal history of the colony, 
a few of whom are now living, and still bear evidence in their walk and movements of the 
galling ball and chain. This grand island avenue was literally bordered with the beautiful 
yellow blossoms of the wattle-tree, whose branches seemed alive with gay-plumaged paroquets- 
and other tropical tuneless and tuneful birds, while now and then an innocent pair of fawns 
would look out at us from the shrubbery with their almost human eyes. 

The population of Hobart Town is about twenty thousand. Approached by sea it pre- 
sents some of the finest coast scenery extant, with huge basaltic pillared cliffs in the foreground. 
The metropolis is built upon hilly and undulating land, back of which rises the often-clouded 
and snow-capped pinnacle of Mount Wellington in majestic grandeur. It is situated on the 
shores of a beautiful inlet called Sullivan's Cove, close to the mouth of the celebrated Der- 
went River, which derives its source from the Tasmanian lakes. The main streets of the 
city are of good width and finely macadamized, its public and business structures elegant and 
imposing, and its private residences seem to be built with an especial view to the good old 
English idea of comfort. The Houses of Parliament occupy a commanding position facing 
the harbor. The many fine churches, charitable institutions, and school buildings, together 
with the Tasmanian library, botanical gardens, and other motherland features, give the place 
quite the air of one of the older European cities. 

On Monday I gave my first evening of song at Wesley Church to a large, appreciative, 
and demonstrative audience, who oftentimes became so enthusiastic as to stop me with their 
applause between the verses of my songs, and to whom I had been handsomely introduced 
by my chairman, Hon. Mr. Moore, a member of the provincial Parliament. 

The following day, in company with Mr. Marsh's family, we were driven to that most 
romantic locality, the Fern-tree Valleys, clothed in deep verdure of brier, shrub, and vegeta- 
tion, and overarched by the sun-excluding, feathery fronds of great fern-trees, bending in 
palm-like grandeur, with every curve and leaflet instinct with lines of beauty and tints of 
color. Leaving our carriages at "Fern-tree Inn," we traversed a path of about one mile in 
length through Fern-tree Gully, where these mammoth ferns, some of them one hundred feet 



BACK TO MELBOURNE. 67 



high, and two feet through at the base, with their umbrella-shaped tops, vied with the eu- 
calyptus or blue gum-tree in preventing the sun from piercing the density of the shade. A 
bright, rapid streamlet came gurgling under the fringing ferns, dropping from the rocky 
margin, or leaping out into light, flinging its silvery waters in a glittering cascade over walls 
of perpendicular black rocks, clad in livid green of moss, lichen, and cryptogamous plants. 
Reaching the "Bower," a tent-like little nook, with a glorious canopy of fern-branches, and 
provided with comfortable seats for the relief of tired pilgrims to this beautiful shrine of nature, 
we were joined by my son James and Master Marsh, who had availed themselves of the early 
morning hours, and visited the summit of Mount Wellington, and were thus far on their way 
back bearing a snow-ball trophy in hand. 

Having entered the day spent in this ferny ravine among the "white ones in our calen- 
dar," we wended our way homeward. Among the grand views which we caught in descend- 
ing was that of Dervvent River, flashing in the sunlight like a long sheet of burnished silver, 
stretching far inland, while its broad bosom and highland' battlements reminded me of our 
own dear Hudson. 

But we must return to the Victoria metropolis once more, and after giving several serv- 
ices in aid of temperance, orphan, and other charitable institutions, and my farewell service 
of song in the great Lonsdale church, where I held my first service in the colonies, March 
30, having since my arrival conducted one hundred and one song-services, and given forty song- 
sermons, by the grace of God having been able to fill every engagement. This great edifice 
was again filled with people; and at the close of the exercises I was presented by Hon. Mr. 
Crouch, in behalf of the committee who invited me to Australia, a beautiful illuminated ad- 
dress, which read as follows : 

" Mr. Philip Phillips — Dear Sir: At the close of your services in Australia we, the 
committee, in connection with whom they have been given, desire to express our entire sat- 
isfaction with the manner in which they have been conducted. 

"The evenings of sacred song in various parts of Victoria, New South Wales, South 
Australia, and Tasmania have contributed to the pleasure and profit of many thousands, and 
will, we believe, have the effect of exciting an increased attention to singing as a handmaid 
to social, family, and public worship. 

"The song-sermons which you have given gratuitously on Sunday evenings have, under 
God, been the means of leading many to the Savior, and of awakening deeper religious feel- 
ing in the hearts of great numbers. 

"Your name as a composer and singer had of course become familiar to us, and we 
are glad to have the opportunity of personal acquaintance and intercourse. 

"We anticipate permanent and beneficial results from the solo singing as a part of public 
worship, of which you have afforded us illustrations, and believe that it will open up a form 
of presenting divine truth to the hearts and consciences, of which the church has not hitherto 
fully availed itself. 

"Our personal intercourse with you has been of a very happy and profitable kind; and 
we desire to bear testimony to the manner in which you have subordinated other consider- 
ations to the chief object of doing good by singing the gospel. 

"We wish you, Mrs. Phillips and your sons, every blessing from our kind heavenly 
Father; we shall cherish many pleasant memories of your visit and labors among us; we shall 
follow with interest your continued efforts of Christian song; we shall pray that you -and your 
family may be favored with a pleasant and safe voyage, by the will of God, to India and 
your native land; and trusting that you may be spared long to serve God and His church 
in the path which He has chosen for you, we are, dear sir, for the committee: 

"John Harcourt, President of Conference. 
John Cope, ex-President of Conference. 
John C. Lyman, Secretary of Conference. 
"S. G. King, J. P., 
J. P. Crouch, J. P., Joseph Dare, 

John G. Milliard, John Watsford, 

John Bee, Adam Nicols, 

James S. Waugh, Wm. C. Quick, 

James D. Dodgson, J. T. Harcourt, J. P." 

We spent our last evening in Melbourne, taking leave of the committee and private 
friends, and on the morning of October 7th were accompanied by a number of them to the 



68 



ON THE SEA. 



steamer Nubia, at Williamstown wharf. After a season of prayer on board the steamer, in 
which God's blessing was besought for our prosperous voyage to India, and upon our services 
there — a precious hour full of tenderest emotions — our farewells all spoken, the steamer moved 
oceanward; and from the deck we could see Dr. Dare, Brothers Simmons, Crouch, Marsh, 
and others, waving their handkerchiefs until the shore faded from our view. 

The Nubia was one of the largest and staunchest of the steamers of the Peninsular and 
Oriental line, but was not a fast boat. For the first few days the waters were smooth and 
calm, then suddenly it set in so stormy and rough that the captain was unable to leave the 
mails and passengers for South Australia at the usual port, and after lying to all night out- 
side the harbor, only succeeded in discharging them at a land-locked harbor at Kangaroo 
Island early the next afternoon. 

As we neared the waters of King George's Sound the extremely "nasty" weather, as 
the sailors termed it, culminated, one dark night, in a fearful storm. As it approached in 
its great strength, the whistling of the wind through the rigging of the staunch old vessel, 




STORM AT SEA. 



blended with the hoarse, melancholy moaning of the sea, struck upon the ear with terrible 
significance. Then the great winds shook our good ship, which was nothing but a feather 
in their giant grasp, tossing it mountains high or plunging it fathoms deep as if in wild wrath, 
engulfing it in the embrace of a crashing sea-wave, which filled the decks with Niagara rivers, 
penetrated the hatchways to the cabin, and drenched us to the skin, as if to show us how 
feeble and helpless we were as opposed to its mighty strength. I never passed a night on 
the ocean so full of terrible anxiety, and was never so thankful for the morning light, when 
Jesus said to these surging waters as to those of Galilee, "Peace, be still!" How forcibly 
this perilous night brought to mind the terror of the little sailor boy on such a night as this, 
whose feelings the poet has expressed in these lines: 



'O pilot, 'tis a fearful night, 

There's clanger on the deep ; 
I'll come and pace the deck with thee, 
I do not dare to sleep. 



'Go down,' the sailor cries, 'go down, 
This is no place for thee; 
Fear not, but trust in Providence 
Wherever thou may'st be.' " 



On the afternoon of October 16th we glided out of this treacherous sea among the little 
islands of King George's Sound, to Princess Royal Harbor, and came to a stand-still along- 



ABORIGINES OF AUSTRALIA. 



69 



side the town of Albany. No sooner had our anchor dropped than that good Wesleyan mis- 
sionary, Rev. T. C. Lawrence, boarded the vessel in search of myself and family, he having 
learned that I was about leaving Melbourne, thought I might be prevailed upon to give a 
service of song to the people of his town while the steamer was taking coal, which it could 
not accomplish before midnight. Accordingly, with my little family and my peripatetic organ 
we were rowed to shore in the little boat in which my brother came out. The church-bells 

were at once sounded to 
give the people notice of 
the service at eight o'clock 
that evening, and we were 
conducted to the parsonage, 
where we were so rested 
and refreshed after our rude 
jostling on the water that 
this missionary home has 
ever been a bright spot in 
our memory. It seemed 
then, and has always seemed 
since, that such a cup of tea 
as Mrs. Lawrence prepared 
for us never was matched 
in tealand itself, much less 
wherever in the wide world 
this wonderful leaf has been 
imported. 

After we had rested, our 

host took us out to see the 

sights in Albany, which is 

a pretty little hamlet, and a 

principal coaling station for 

the mail steamships. Here 

for the first time as we were landing we saw about 

fifteen men, women, and children who had come down 

to sell kangaroo, opossum, and wombat skins to the 

sailors. These proved to be the genuine aborigines 

of Australia, whom we had feared our curiosity would 

never be gratified in beholding, but which in the end 

was abundantly satisfied. 

Without doubt those people are of the lowest type 
of humanity, subsisting as they principally do upon 
roots and herbs, and many of them without other cov- 
ering or garment than the skins of animals, which they 
wear loosely hanging from their shoulders. Their 
skin is black, and to this feature is added an appear- 
ance of filth. They evidently never indulge in a wash 
or bath, which, taken in connection with their almost 
fleshless limbs, and the peculiar odor attending their 
presence, makes their vicinage any thing but agreeable 
to the Anglo-Saxon. Having often read of the famous 
"boomerang" and its dexterous management as a weapon of offense and defense, in the hand- 
ling of which these native Australians are superior to all others, our good missionary friend 
induced some of them to go out into a large open field and throw this instrument for our 
amusement, and we confess to never having been so thoroughly interested in a feat of dexterity. 
The boomerang resembles a huge ox rib in size and shape, being curved on an angle 
of one hundred to one hundred and forty degrees, and beveled sharp at each edge and end. 
It is made of iron-wood, which is hard enough to cut but not to batter or break. It is usually 
from twenty to thirty inches in length, and an inch and a half wide, and about one-half 
inch through the thickest part, and is thrown from the hand with a quick rotary motion ; 
describing very remarkable curves, it returns and drops at the owner's feet. In our presence 
they hurled it a distance of ten rods into the air, where, after spinning round and round, it 
returned to the thrower, and w r as picked up by the children and handed to him. Several 




-i^S ' " 



■jo THE ISLAND OF CEYLON. 



times they threw it so that it described a circle around a tree, coming back with force enough 
to kill a man if it had hit him. , So correct is the aim of the natives with this curious in- 
strument that it is in constant use for killing game and as a weapon of warfare. These 
natives also throw the spear with great accuracy of aim, which they fully proved to us by 
hitting three times in succession four shilling pieces, which we set up on the top of a split 
stick at a distance of five rods, relieving our pockets of an even dollar. 

Notwithstanding railroads, steamboats, and telegraphs have brought the lands and nations 
so near to each other, very queer ideas still linger in the minds of some of the people of 
every land concerning their far-off brethren. In my own country I have found many people 
who imagined that Australia was mostly populated by blacks, when the fact is we met with 
them as seldom as we see the Indian east of the Mississippi River; and others have talked 
of this great island as though nearly all its population were convicts who had been annually 
sent there from Great Britain, but who are now in fact about as scarce as the aboriginals 
themselves. On the other hand, I found a number of intelligent people in Australia who 
believe that the mass of the population of America are Indians, and were surprised that I was 
not versed in the vernacular of the wild Indians of the West. Imagine the feelings of a 
gentleman friend from Chicago, who was about to land at Bombay, on being asked by an 
Australian lady "if Chicago had any stores or shops, or if the goods were all sold in bazars 
kept by native Indians?" 

After the service of song, Mr. Lawrence took us off to the steamer in his little boat. 
Here he walked the deck with us in pleasant and profitable conversation until the signal gun 
was fired to announce the vessel's departure, when at midnight he bade us good-bye, giving 
me a beautiful cane in token of remembrance. 

After a passage of fourteen days, with a goodly company of passengers, and with but 
little to disturb the monotony, we came in sight of the palm-girded shores of the island of 
Ceylon just before nightfall, and were obliged to stop outside the harbor. 

The vessel, being unable to anchor, drifted back with the current, and when morning- 
dawned we found ourselves out of sight of the coveted haven. How wonderfully similar to 
our progress many times is the Christian life, in which the anchors of our faith loosen while 
gazing upon the very turrets of the heavenly city, leaving us in darkness and doubt, to struggle 
back to the haven of our hopes, from which we have so unconsciously drifted in our fancied 
security ! 




Chapter XII. — The Island of Ceylon. 

T noon, however, we were safely anchored in the exquisite bay off Point de Galle, 
which is encircled by wooded hills of lovely tropical growth, chief among them the 
beautiful palm-trees that, inclining toward the sea, bend their crowns above the water. 
I shall never forget my first impressions as I gazed upon the scenes which were here 
spread before me. Every thing was so intensely fascinating and interesting, and so 
thoroughly unlike what I had pictured in my imagination, that I was hardly able to 
believe my own eyes. Almost the moment the Nubia came to anchor it was surrounded by 
native boats, and boarded by scores of dark and yellow-visaged natives, looking like so many 
pieces of bronzed statuary, who came swarming over the bulwarks, eager to sell their carved 
curiosities of ebony, ivory, and tortoise-shell, and many of them so persistent in entreating 
passengers to go ashore in their little crafts as to oblige the ship's officers to drive them away 
with a whip. 

We were kindly met on board by a native minister, Rev. William Willemburg, who, 
after seeing our luggage safe, guided us in his queer little boat through crowds of the Tamil 
and Cingalese safely to shore, where he had a carriage, or "bandy," in waiting. In this 
vehicle he took us along the banks of a rill bordered with palm-trees, and through streets 
and groves fairly alive with bustling, clattering, wriggling natives— a locality crowded with 
confusion and the wrestling noises of a strange humanity— to the "Wesleyan Home" on 
"Richmond Hill." Here lives Rev. George Baugh, the superintendent of missions, in a 
quiet and charming residence, situated in the center of an elevated compound of several 
acres. From this point we could look down upon sloping, green-canopied grove-tops of the 
magnificent cocoanut palm, catching now and then bright glimpses of the waters of the bay, 
while through the tropic air we could almost hear the poetical strains of Heber, which ever 
breathe so softly o'er Ceylon's isle. 

The beautiful twilight soon arrived, but sooner passed away, for darkness comes here 



THE ISLAND OF CE Yl.oX. 



7i 




72 



THE ISLAND OF CEYLON. 




COUNTRY SCENE IN CEYLON. 



immediately after the sun sets, as though a thick mantle were suddenly cast over the face 
of the earth. Through the darkness strange murmurings and noises saluted our ears from, 
all sides, while lights were seen flashing and disappearing in every direction below and around 
us. The wild chattering of the mischievous monkeys in the jungles and groves was amusing 

to the unpracticed ear; and thoughts of the venom- 
ous reptiles crawling upon the roof, and likely to 
enter oar room from the open crevices beneath the 
eaves, and the rustling footsteps of the brown liz- 
ards promenading the matted floor were any thing 
but soothing to our nerves, somewhat startled as 
they had been by the good missionary's story of a 
deadly cobra snake which had crawled into an ad-' 
joining room but a few months before, and which 
relation he ended with the timely suggestion: "It 
is always well to look under your pillows to dislodge 
poisonous reptiles before lying down." Adding to 
these mental anti-anaesthetics came the weird noise- 
of the poor heathen's "tomtom," vainly trying to 
wake up his inanimate idols — a sound sad and pit- 
iful to the sense of those who worship that true and 
living God "whose eye never slumbers nor sleeps." 
We retired to our beds and slept soundly and 
sweetly, however, until the morning dawned, when, 
as I lifted my coat from the wall and was about 
putting it on my wife discovered what she thought 
an enormous spider on the sleeve, but calling our 
hostess's attention to it was told that it was a ven- 
omous scorpion. 

The second day after my arrival I gave my first 
service in the Wesleyan Church at Point de Galle, 
Cingalese. before an audience of three hundred people, but 

most of whom spoke the English language, and 
gave every evidence of appreciation of the* exercises. The day following I took stage for 
Matura, some twenty-eight miles distant, situated on the extreme southern coast of the island. 
The most of its population is native. The drive along the coast through groves of palm- 
trees, meeting at every turn the nicely-shaved and beautifully-combed Cingalese, with Japanese 




THE ISLAND OF CEYLOX. 



73 



umbrellas spread above them, the priests with long yellow gowns, smoothly-shaved heads, 
and always carrying a palm-leaf fan, together with the hundreds of native population in all 
styles of native dress and undress, was novel and strange. 

M Matura I was made most welcome by Rev. Mr. Nicholson and his estimable lady, 
whose kind hospitality and society I had greatly enjoyed four years before while in Paris. 
Preparations which had been made by these good missionaries for my comfort and pleasure 
seemed to greet me on every hand, and every preliminary had been arranged by them for 
my evening of song. After 
a refreshing nap at mid- 
day I was awakened for a 
delightful dinner with sev- 
eral of Mr. Nicholson's 
workers, who had come 
in from their respective 
fields of missionary labor 
to hear me sing hymns of 
"Jesus and his love." 
The little church was dec- 
orated with beautiful flow- 
ers, the perfume of the 
little blossom called the 
"temple flower" filling 
the room with a fragrance 
which outvied the "spicy 
breezes" themselves. Here 
were gathered a goodly 
number of attentive list- 
eners, upon whose ears 
my songs seemed to fall 
like old acquaintances, as 
many of them had been 
translated into the Tamil 
and Cingalese language; 
and they listened with the 
deepest attention and in- 
terest. 

We also visited the 
heathen city of the gods 
and " Dondra," said to be 
the oldest Buddhish temple 
in Ceylon. 

Some of the inscrip- 
tions upon the tablets and 
pillars are readily deciph- 
ered. Here idols are seen 
at every turn. The Tem- 
ple is on the summit of a 
steep eminence, and in- 
closes a colossal statue of idols. 
Buddha in a reclining 

posture. It is built of brick and gorgeously painted. In front of the statue is a table con- 
taining floral offerings, prominent among which was the temple flower, a beautiful white and 
wonderfully fragrant blossom, somewhat resembling our cape jasmine. We paid a visit to a 
wealthy native, "whose residence is on a point of land extending into the sea. and who has 
given the Rev. Mr. Nicholson ground on which to build his new school. Here we had a 
fine view of the sea, with its huge breakers rolling up against the rocks, and splashing their 
briny foam at our feet. Cocoanut, banana, bread-fruit, and palm-trees were on every hand, 
the latter inclining their tufted heads toward the water, as if in grateful obeisance to that 
prolific element of their life and growth. 

After a very pleasant forenoon we were invited to lunch with the Presbyterian minister, 
and went home with our friends to dinner at six o'clock, returning next morning to our 




74 



THE ISLAND OF CEYLON. 



pleasant quarters at "Richmond Hill." After a noonday nap and "tiffin," we seated our- 
selves on the wide, pleasant veranda, which encircled the whole house, and whose overhang- 
ing roof formed a comforting shade. While we were looking at some coffee bushes, one of 
the native servants climbed a cocoanut-tree for our amusement. He fastened the rope made 

of cocoanut fiber around 

s 



his waist and the trunk 
of the tree, and after 
looking that it was se- 
cure, he planted his feet 
firmly against the body 
of the tree, carrying the 
rope strap upwards with 
his hands at every step, 
ascending it as easy as 
a squirrel and as nimbly 
as a frog, throwing the 
greatly-prized fruit at 
our feet. The floors of 
the English houses are 
covered with a carpet 
or matting woven from 
the cocoa-bark; the na- 
tive vehicles are cov- 
ered with its leaves, and 
the houses of the natives 
thatched with them; co- 
coa-oil is burned in their 
lamps; curry is com- 
bined with the flesh of 
the nut, making a most 
palatable dish ; and its 
milk is considered a 
great luxury. 

We saw the Areca 
palm growing in every 
native garden, being 
planted near the walls 
or water-courses, with its 
thin, polished stem and 
crown of green leaves, 
often running to the 
height of forty feet. 
Just beneath its leaves 
are the nuts, which the 
natives prepare, with a 
lime made from calcined 
shells and the leaf of the 
betal pepper for the pur- 
pose of chewing. If 
possible, it is more of- 
climbing palm-trees in cevlon. fensive than American 

tobacco, as the com- 
bined articles color the saliva so deep a red that the lips and teeth look as though they were 
bathed in blood. 

After a pleasant day in this angel land, but not land of angels, we gave our second 
song-service in Point de Galle to a large audience, and I greatly enjoyed the sweet Christian 
spirit which pervaded all present. Here I was deeply impressed with the truth that the lan- 
guage of Christ and his religion is the same the wide world over; and the name of Jesus has 
every-where the same sweet sound and significance. 

The next morning, as the regular stage had overlooked our order, we were assisted by 
Brothers Baugh and Willemburg in hiring a special one to take us to Columbo. We started 




11'//// THE CHILDREN OF COLUMBO. 



75 



about eleven o'clock with a driver and a boy to blow the stage-horn as we advanced to give 
the natives warning to get out of the way and avoid being run over. 

About seven miles out I was pleasantly surprised by a good native brother — an attendant 
at my service the evening before — who brought to the coach presents of choice tropical fruits 
of several kinds, cakes and sweetmeats, and with many expressions of pleasure and good-will, 
wished us "God-speed." I am sorry I have forgotten his name, but I shall never forget his 
kindly countenance as he handed me these tokens of his friendship and love in this far-off 
land.' Our entire drive — a distance of seventy-four miles — lay along the sea through avenues 
of palm-trees, native houses and villages being scattered thickly all the way. We met and 
passed such cnwds of humanity all the time that it seemed to us like a great fair or parade 
day. We changed horses several times, and stopped once at a government house, called 
"house of rest," for lunch or '-tiffin.'' It was very odd to see these black people standing 
in the waters of the brooks and little inlets, pouring water upon their heads from little earthen 
cups, called "chatties," their bodies being previously anointed with cocoanut-oil. 




CART, CEYLON. 



During this journey we saw several scaffolds erected by the roadside upon which the 
famous Devil Dancers were performing. Hundreds of the poor deluded natives will bring 
their sick for miles through the burning sun in order that these miserable creatures may 
dance around them, believing that by so doing their diseases will leave them. It is a piti- 
able sight, enough to fire the heart of any Christian man or woman. 

We arrived at Columbo at eight o'clock in the evening thoroughly fatigued, and with 
keenly whetted appetites. We were at once made at home at the residence of Rev. John 
Scott, the superintendent of the Wesleyan Mission, where, with delicious soup, curry and rice, 
tender roast beef, etc., our cravings were speedily satisfied. This home is pleasantly situated 
near the water, its compound extending to the sea-beach. The grateful breezes from the 
water and the lullaby of the surf, as it beat upon the pebbly shore, soon brought us the 
sweetest and most refreshing slumber. 

We arose greatly invigorated on the following morning, and the day proved to us a 
memorable Sabbath. Early in the dav we attended a Sabbath-school session, or Bible-class, 



76 



SIGHT-SEEING IN AND ABOUT CO I. UMBO. 



conducted by Miss Scott, a lady of rare mental gifts, and cheerful and loving in her work. 
The chapel was in the same compound as the home, and here we heard our American Sun- 
day-school songs sung by the children of Ceylon. The season was most precious and re- 
freshing, and we all worshiped with the same books and the same songs the same Savior. 

In the evening we listened to an excellent sermon by Rev. I. Landon, previous to which, 
just as the twilight was falling, I gave my song-sermon, "About Jesus our Savior." My little 
slips had been well distributed, and many who came were unable to gain admission on ac- 
count of the chapel having been filled a few minutes after the door was opened. So new 
was the character of the exercises, and so eager and attentive were the people present,— 
the children being especially attentive and participative, — that all seemed loth to leave the 
edifice, while I gained new confidence that through the voice of song the gospel truths would 
eventually reach the hearts of the heathen of every land and clime. 




DEVIL DANCE, CEYLON. 



We spent some time on Monday in looking at the sights in and about Columbo, which has 
a population of one hundred thousand, is the capital of Ceylon, and is its principal seaport. 
One portion of the town is open, while the other is fortified. The interior has some appear- 
ance of an English town. Its harbor, which is small, is defended by several forts. 

In the afternoon, taking my eldest son, we loaded my organ on a wagon in order to visit 
Mortura and give my first evening of song in that city. On the road we encountered a 
religious procession, composed of several hundred natives, making loud and most discordant 
sounds on all sorts of rude instruments, which evidently seemed to them to emit the grandest 
music. I could not help thinking that this was a strange prelude to my singing ; but it fired 



CINNAMON GROVES, 



77 



my heart to sing with new ardor the sweet old story of God's love. Passing by a number 
of cinnamon groves, our curiosity led us to stop at one of them, where we peeled oil the 
green bark from one of the shrubs, and took it away as a curiosity. The soil where this 
shrub grows most luxuriantly, has a white appearance, reminding one of the famous alkaline 
beds which we see in crossing our own continent. 



. 



I 



V 



mm 







PEELING CINNAMO\-liARK, CEYLON. 



On Thursday, November nth, we took train for Kandy, the ancient capital of Ceylon, 
accomplishing the ride of seventy miles in four hours and a half. The scenery on this trip 
was most enchanting, combining the grandeur of the Alpine view with the splendor of trop- 
ical vegetation. It was a perfect panorama, hill, valley, plain, gorge, ravine, and cascade, 
of foliage, fruit, and flower, with great "paddi," or rice-fields and coffee-bush plantations on 
every hand, in which were to be seen the natives at their accustomed toil. The resident 
missionary, the Rev. Mr. Tebb, was waiting at the station, and escorted us to his home. 

On Friday morning our kind host took us to the public gardens, which overlook the 



7« 



COFFEE EST A TES. 




river on three sides, and, though not remarkable for their display of flowers or artificial 
beauty, were grand in their wealth of stately tropical trees, planted on an area of one hun- 
dred and fifty acres. We entered the grounds through an avenue of India rubber, or caout- 
chouc, trees whose formidable array of red roots above ground looked like brick piled up in 

many fanciful and grotesque shapes. 
On every hand were the Taliput, the 
Palmyra, the Katool, and the slender 
Arica palm-trees, and the famous 
Travelers' tree of Madagascar, which, 
in many instances, grew fifty feet in 
height. We were also much inter- 
ested with the display of flowering, 
creeping vines, and the "jungle- 
rope," whose strong vegetable sinews 
spread from trunk to trunk, and 
clasp them together in serpent-like 
coils. 

Our hostess kindly took us in a 
"bandy" some three miles distance, 
to the large coffee estates of her 
brother. After winding round and 
round the hills, and stopping to gaze 
from terrace to terrace in our ascent, 
here and there catching charming 
glimpses of the little lake, park, and 
town at our feet, and the peak of old 
Mount Adams in the distance, we 
approached the pleasantest little spot 
imaginable, located on a tree-em- 
bowered terrace, with delightful ris- 
ing grounds in the rear, and gemmed 
with flowering shrubs and plants. 
In this charming spot stood the residence of our host, its roof and sides completely covered 
with three varieties of creeping roses in full bloom, from which the estate had evidently re- 
ceived its pretty name. 

Here we took tiffin with I. L. Dewer, Esq., a courteous and wealthy gentleman, who both 
owns and manages his extensive estates, and the richest and rarest food and fruit of the 
tropics were set before us. We were then shown the coffee in its different stages of growth 
and preparation for the market, and looked with interest upon the dark-green foliage of this 
evergreen tree or shrub. Its gray-barked trunk is generally from two to four feet high, and 
its long branches are covered with beautiful leaves and white blossoms in thick clusters — 
nature's process of budding, flowering, and ripening going on upon the same branches and 
at all seasons of the year. Returning to the veranda of the house, we passed a pleasant hour, 
which was only disturbed by an occasional thumping upon the roof, which excited my curi- 
osity to the extent of venturing an inquiry as to its cause, when I was very quietly and un- 
concernedly informed that it was a snake. Verily, "there is no rose without a thorn," even 
in such a delightful spot as this. 

The following morning, by special invitation, Ave breakfasted with Mr. and Mrs. Spaar, 
and a novel meal it was to us on account of the addition of "hoppers" to the customary 
breakfast — a delicious cake, made of cocoanut and rice, and served with sugar or syrup. On 
this occasion one variety was made of pounded rice and grated cocoanut and a little arrak ; 
another of the cocoanut shredded; another with an egg broken and dropped in the center of 
the cake, and each baked in a chatty — a small earthen cup. 

We reached our old quarters at "Richmond Hill" in the evening, glad to avail ourselves 
of an early hour for rest and sleep. 

The next day we dined with a number of Wesleyan native ministers, and in the evening 
I gave my farewell song-sermon to a large gathering of people, who manifested intense in- 
terest from the opening to the close. Then taking our luggage we repaired to a hotel near 
the steamboat landing for an early start for India the following morning. 

Along came the grand old ship Mirzapore, the great steamer of the Peninsula and Oriental 
line, under the command of Commodore Parish, a thorough and skillful seaman, and an 



Rl'BBER-TREE, CEYLON. 



INDIA -CALCUTTA. 



earnest Christian, who held prayers in the saloons as regularly as the striking of the morning 
bells. Never did we more enjoy a ride than on the ocean steamship Mirzapore, with its 
noble captain, pleasant passengers, refreshing punkas, spacious saloons, airy and pleasant (alt- 
ins, and inviting tables. Greatly adding to the pleasures of the voyage was our meeting with 
Hon. I. M. Francis, United States Minister to Greece, as well as the veteran editor of the 
Troy Daily Times, and his wife, of my own native State (New York), together with two 
other American ladies, who were traveling with them en route from China. 




Chapter XIII. — India — Calcutta. 

HREE days' sail after leaving Ceylon brought us alongside Madras, where our ship 
dropped anchor, and remained eight hours. On approaching the city we were 
alarmed at seeing our dear country's flag at half-mast over the office of the resident 
consul there, and soon learned from the papers brought on board of the death Vice- 
President Henry Wilson. Hardly had our steamer's engines ceased when swarms of 
the Tamil men came shouting over the high surfs, in their frail bark canoes, and clam- 
bered on board our vessel, eager and anxious to dispose of their wares, consisting of 




OLD COURT-HOUSE STREET, DALHOUSIE SQUARE, CALCUTTA. 

embroideries, sandal-wood fans, carved images of animals, and various articles, for all of which 
we soon learned that the purchaser sets the correct price upon them, and not the vender. 
A number of native jugglers came on board, and performed wonderful feats of jugglery, which 
almost led us tc repudiate the laws of nature and those which govern the human body, and 
which would, I am sure, put to shame all the feeble attempts at the supernatural practiced by 
the so-called spiritual mediums of my own country. Not only would they eat knives, take 
out their eyes, grow plants, swallow snakes, but they would drink water mingled with three 
different colors of paint, and spit the decoction from their mouths into three separate piles 
of colored dry sand. 

Madras was a very cheerless looking city from the deck of our steamer, and it seems 
strange that it should have been built down so closely to the shores of the sea without a harbor 



8o 



INDIA— CAL CUTTA. 



of any kind. Reserving my visit to Madras until a later period, we did not disembark; and 
the good ship having taken on board a supply of ice and fruits, we sailed away up the Bay 
of Bengal, with slight head-winds, at the rate of nine knots an hour; and on the following 
day we find recorded in our journal "the most pleasant day we ever spent on the ocean 
wave." Awnings were spread over the entire deck, and, hanging half way down the ship's 
sides, protected us from the fearful rays and glare of the burning sun; and the cool, grateful 
ripples of air, produced by the noiseless waving of the punkas, with an atmosphere of velvet 
softness, and a calm, still sea, in whose waters were prismed all the colors of light, there is 
no adjective in our store of language to adequately describe the beauty, comfort, and tran- 
quility of these hours. 

Another lovely day, and a blessed one, followed, for it was the holy Sabbath. In the 
morning the entire ship's crew, except those required on duty at the time, came on deck in 
full nautical dress, and stood in file for review, each one raising his right hand, and bowing 
to the captain as he marched down in front of them. The native sailors were dressed in 
loose white gowns, each carrying a bright pocket-handkerchief in his hand. Divine service 
was held both morning and evening. We found it a real pleasure to use the piano on board 
this ship; for, unlike most instruments at sea, it was a good one, and in tune; a rare circum- 
stance, as any one can testify who has tried one of them. 




DIAMOND HARBOR, OR MOUTH OF THE GANGES. 



Early on the morning of November 29th we were in sight of the light-houses and island 
at the mouth of the Hoogly, or Ganges, of which so much has been written by missionaries 
and tourists. But owing to the absence of flood-tide we were obliged to anchor between the 
oapes which guard the river's entrance into the Bay of Bengal until eight o'clock the next 
morning, when we had a charming sail up the stream, the scenery upon the banks, though 
not particularly tropical, being very pretty. 

As we neared Calcutta, the city of palaces, floating thither upon the Ganges, held in such 
sacred veneration by pagans for centuries, and in whose waters so many lives have been 
sacrificed to superstition in idolatrous worship, we found the river to resemble in depth and 
width our Hudson as it appears above West Point. Landing in boats at the wharf amid a 
babel of chattering, unknown tongues, and a din of noise entirely new and novel to our 
ears, we were met by Rev. J. M. Thoburn, D. D., bearing to us from the ladies of the 
"Union Missionary American Home" the very kind invitation to make their home ours while 
in Calcutta. 

Dr. Thoburn kindly escorted us thither, where the first to greet us was Miss Josie Kim- 
ball, whom we had often seen at home in New York, and who is now engaged as a missionary 



THE SrjRIT OF CAS'l E. 



81 



teacher, doing efficient work for the Master. Here we were soon domiciled in spacious and 
•comfortable apartments, furnished after both the American and Oriental style. This home, 
under the supervision of "The Woman's Union Mission Society of America for Heathen 
Lands," was established thirteen years previous to our visit by Miss Brittan, its present pres- 
ident or manager, who has associated with her twelve American ladies as teachers. They 
have already instructed seventy native women, who have become assistant teachers, thus 
bringing into operation a practical plan for the restoration of woman here in India to her 
lawful sphere. My good wife was often invited by Miss Brittan and her associates to ac- 
company them to the "zenanas" or homes of the wealthy Baboos, as well as the dwellings 
of those of inferior caste, and had thereby a rare opportunity of gaining some knowledge of 
the details of this zenana mission work. 

First, these teachers gain access to the families of households by teaching embroidery, 
fancy needle-work, and elementary lessons. These families are often quite large from the fact 




GOVERNOR-GENERAL'S PALACE, CALCUTTA. 



that the betrothed of the sons live with the intended step-mother from childhood up to and 
after marriage; and in many cases fifty persons, consisting of the Baboo and wife, the married 
sons and their wives and children, their unmarried sons and their betrothed wives, the widows 
and children of deceased sons are to be found living under one roof; the female portion of 
this household is secluded from the outside world by bars and veils. In the course of needle 
instruction, the teacher, having previously mastered the language, seeks to impress upon the 
women that industry is preferable to idleness, that knowledge is a gift as necessary to them as 
to their husbands, sons, and brothers, and that such acquirements will make them happier and 
better, as well as thoroughly useful in whatever sphere of life they may be placed. Mrs. Phil- 
lips was kindly received in these homes in company with the teachers, and freely conversed 
with the occupants, and heard their simple instruction by interpretation. The women seemed 
pleased to show her their toilets and jewels, but in no case was she allowed to handle them, 
6 



82 REVIVAL SERVICES. 



as the touch of a Christian is considered to so pollute these articles as to necessitate a thorough 
cleansing, if not their destruction. 

The sad fate of the widows of these people called out her deep sympathy. They are 
consigned to an almost solitary life, in the most wretched apartments of the father-in-law's- 
home, and are not allowed to wear jewels, so evidently one of the greatest privileges of the 
women of Hindostan. The mothers consider themselves very unfortunate in the birth of a 
daughter, who, however strong their affection, is taken from them and affianced when but a 
few years old; and, on the other hand, they are greatly rejoiced in giving birth to a son, for 
he can remain with them during life. 

While the missionaries of India are well housed, and have no difficulty in obtaining food, 
and have it prepared for them without any trouble of their own, their efforts to overcome 
caste, and to find means of approach to the hearts of the people, wherein to sow the precious 
seed of the gospel, are full of anxious care and great trial and perplexity. 

At an early hour each morning we were awakened by our soft-footed waiter, who tapped 
gently on the lattice-door of our room, bringing to us our "chotohazra," or early breakfast, 
consisting of tea, toast, oranges, and bananas, which we were supposed to eat sitting in our 
beds, after which we arose and took our baths, and after completing our toilets were ready to 
receive the early morning call which is so common in India. We breakfasted at eleven o'clock, 
dined at five, and had tea at seven, served in the drawing-room or verandas, and supper 
at ten. 

The next morning Mr. William Meyers called to take us to visit the market-house — a long 
and commodious structure, one-half of which was occupied by native venders, and the other 
half by European. My wife and little son rode home therefrom in a palanquin, carried on the 
shoulders of four natives. The same day we visited some English stores for articles which we 
needed; also, purchasing "sun topeys," a sort of cork hat for protecting the head from the 
fierce rays of the sun, to which it is never safe to expose that portion of the body. 

In company with Dr. Thoburn, Miss Brittan, and a party of twelve, we sailed down the 
Hoogly six miles, in a boat chartered for the purpose, to the garden which is called Eden, 
named after an accomplished sister of a former governor-general, and not after paradise. It is 
a great resort for promenade by European and native citizens alike. On entering the garden 
we saw a live cobra de capello, whose bite is deadly poison. Dr. Thoburn pinned it to the 
ground with the point of his umbrella until we all had an opportunity of seeing its distended 
hood, and then he dispatched it, not being able to call on certain Hindoo servants to kill 
this reptile, as they think the spirits of their deceased relatives dwell in animals, reptiles, and 
insects, and they might in this act be slaying their fathers or grandfathers. The five servants 
who accompanied us spread our luncheon beneath a banyan-tree, which covered over an acre 
of ground, presenting, with its huge parent trunk and myriad tree-column-supported branches, 
one of the most curious sights we ever gazed upon. That evening in company with Dr. 
Thoburn I took dinner with Sir Richard Muir, a government officer in British India. 

Our first Sabbath in this city we attended morning service at the Methodist Episcopal 
Church in Dhuremtollah Street, and listened to a deeply interesting and spiritual sermon by 
Rev. Dr. J. M. Thoburn, who is the superintendent of American missions in Calcutta, and 
who is eminently successful in carrying out the work which was inaugurated by the world's 
evangelist, Rev. William Taylor, now bishop of Africa. 

In the evening I gave my first song-sermon in this church, which was attended by an 
immense audience, and at which four persons rose for prayers. I felt quite anxious to know 
how many of my hearers were professed Christians, and having requested such to rise, great 
was my astonishment to see the entire assembly stand up. Not till then did I learn that 
their idea of a Christian was any one who wears European clothing or garments. 

My friends thinking my singing the songs of Jesus in this old city of heathen temples 
and idolatry seemed to warrant a special effort, it was concluded to commence holding two 
meetings a day, one in the morning at seven o'clock, and the other in the evening. These 
were all held in the Methodist Episcopal Chapel, which seats six hundred people. It has no 
ceilings, but an overhanging roof, beneath the eaves of which ventilation is given the structure 
on all sides, and being without glass windows, but with latticed blinds, it is as free to the 
birds of the air as to the people. For awhile but few of the natives attended these services, 
at which Dr. Thoburn preached and I sang, while the English people seemed to manifest that 
indifference peculiar to large centers, in which it is so difficult to reach the masses with the 
preached word. Yet greatly aided by Christian workers, we persevered until the interest began 
to increase, and many expressed a desire for the prayers of God's people. These meetings 
in Calcutta did not compare with those held in the cities of our own land, but taking the sur- 



R El 7 /•.//. SERVICES. 



83 



mm 







-^^t 



NATIVE LIFE IN INDIA. 



roundings and influences into consideration, they seemed to result even more successfully than 
many held in our more civilized and highly favored land. 

After one of the morning services a native came to me and asked for a Bible, which I 
gave him, with an earnest prayer that it might open up to him the way of salvation. On 
taking it into his hands he manifested the greatest delight, and moved off looking at it as 
gratified as a lad with his first top. 

One morning after 
service, with a party 
of "workers" from 
the "home," we vis- 
ited the Kali Ghaut, 
where poor deluded 
souls were bowing 
down to inanimate 
images of wood and 
stone. We were un- 
der the guidance of 
Rev. Mr. Muckagee, 
a converted Brahmin. 
Once this excellent 
preacher of the gos- 
pel, a man of great 
faith and piety, mut- 
tered the same pray- 
ers and bowed down 
at the same shrines to 
which we now saw his 
countrymen so de- 
voted ; and it was 
most pitiful to witness 

his sadness as we together looked upon them in these acts of idolatrous worship, for the 
abandonment of which and acceptance of the Saviour he had been forsaken by his parents 
and kindred. Here we saw the natives bathing in the waters of the supposed sacred Ganges, 
and dipping in or sprinkling with its waters the young kids and other offerings they were 
about to lay at the feet of their different idols. Here animals were being slain, flowers borne, 
beads counted, and/self-infliction made upon the body. Here, too, we came upon a wretched 
fakir, sitting motionless over a slow fire, all covered with ashes from the burning embers be- 
neath him, receiving 
their smoke in his" 
eyes until the tears 
had worn channels 
down his wan and 
sunken cheeks. We 
talked with the poor 
misguided creature, 
and learned that for 
some sixteen years he 
had repaired to this 
place for his daily tor- 
ture. In this misera- 
ble locality, where 
crowds were kneeling 
before their shrines, 
and offering up sacri- 
fices and gifts to their 
idols, we were impor- 
tuned by wretched 
beggars, many of 
them fearfully de- 
formed, and uttering 
the most pitiful cries 




NATIVES BATHING IN THE GANGES. 



84 THE HEATHEN GODS. 



for help. The following description of some of the principal idols worshiped in India was 
given me by Brother Muckagee: 

' ' The idol Juggemauth, by whose huge car worshipers consider it a great merit to be 
run over and crushed to death, and which has been suppressed by British laws, is represented 
by the dark-faced figure of Juggernauth on the right, with his green-faced brother on the left, 
and yellow-faced sister between them, with ornamental bands or collars of crimson, yellow, 
and green hanging from their necks. The heathen god Kishna is represented standing upon 
the red-hooded head of the blue serpent Kaligua in upright coil. Two forms on either side 
of this god, with female heads, breasts, and arms attached to serpent tails, are the wives of 
Kaligua, whom Kishna is said to have destroyed. There is much that is mysterious con- 
nected with Hindoo mythology, and the representation of the incarnate Kishna standing upon 
the head of a huge serpent, and totally destroying it, reminds one of the 'old serpent' having 
his head bruised by the seed of the woman. Yet the Hindoos themselves know nothing of 
the typical meaning which seems to be attached to some of their idols, but worship them 
blindly without being able to give any explanation or reason therefor. 

"Doorga, the ten-handed goddess, much worshiped in Bengal in September and October, 
is represented with her hands full of warlike weapons, among which the bow and spear are 
prominent, and as standing with one foot upon the back of a lion, with the other resting upon 
the shoulder of the giant Azoor, whose breast the raging lion is rending with his teeth and 
claws. Doorga is also worshiped with her elephant-headed son, Ganesh, seated in her lap, 
with his arms clasped about her body, which son the devotee is commanded to invoke be- 
fore the mother, lest he be despised on account of his deformity and uncouth appearance. 

"The goddess Kali is the wife of Mohedena, the third person in the Hindoo idol triad, 
and is so generally worshiped throughout India that her image is to be seen in almost every 
Hindoo home, except among the devotees of Kishna. She assumes different forms on dif- 
ferent occasions, is exceedingly bloodthirsty, and is represented in one form with a great knife 
in the left hand, with a crimson clot of blood upon her right hand and foot, while with the 
toes of the left foot she holds a severed human head suspended by the hair. The most re- 
volting human sacrifices were formerly offered to her, but the cruel practice has been discon- 
tinued by an edict of the British government. Thieves and robbers always invoke this 
goddess before going out on their predatory excursions. 

" S/iarasnati, the goddess of learning, is represented as sitting among the leaves of a lotus- 
tree and playing upon a guitar, while one of her feet rests upon an expanded flower. Young 
Hindoo students worship her at certain seasons of the year, she being pictured out on their 
desks, ink-stands, and pens. But those who commence the study of the English language 
soon discontinue doing her reverence, finding in industry and perseverance a surer and a 
better way of acquiring knowledge. 

"Mohedena, or the great god, is represented in a sitting posture, clothed in tiger skins, 
and intoxicated with the fumes of burning hemp, the smoke of which is curling about his 
head. He is worshiped in several other forms, however, and much that is revolting and in- 
decent is connected with these rites. 

"The monkey god is worshiped because when his devotion and loyalty to his master 
was questioned he tore open his breast and showed his heart, in which the idols Rama and 
his wife were to be seen enthroned. In honor of this proof of devoted service to Rama, all 
monkeys are held sacred by the Hindoos, who suffer them to commit all kinds of depreda- 
tions upon their property without molestation or retaliation. 

"Garoier, a horrid-looking, yellow-bodied, green-winged old bird with web feet, an old 
friend of Rama and his father, who imprisoned Laban the king of Lanka, or Ceylon, together 
with his chariot and horses, in his monstrous beak as he was kidnaping Sista, the wife of 
Rama, and who had to be slain before that king was rescued, is also an object of devout 
worship. 

"Jagatdhata, who is believed to support or hold up the earth, is a four-armed goddess, 
and is represented as. seated upon the back of a human-faced tiger, who in turn is standing 
upon the head of an elephant. She is another form of Shera's wife, and is accredited as 
having slain a giant who was a terror to men and gods alike. 

"Other Hindoo idols are a representation of Mohedena begging rice from his wife, who 
had assumed a form known and worshiped as Annapurna, signifying full of rice and alms. 
Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, and Saraswati, the goddess of learning, both the reputed 
daughters of Mohedena and Doorga, standing together on blossoms of the lotus-tree, as also 
Krishna and his wife, Radhika, who are pictured out in the act of dancing beneath the 
branches of a palm." 



VISIT BY THE PRINCE OF WALES. 



S? 



After leaving these pagan sights behind we visited the China and Borrough bazars, where 
in little, narrow streets the natives display their merchandise, sitting about like so many tailors 
on their benches, and where, among other trifles, we purchased several pictures representing 
their heathen deities. 

The next afternoon we went to the inclosure where the natives burn their dead on the 
funeral pyre, and saw several bodies thus publicly cremated. One husband was in the act of 
burning the body of his wife, which had been laid upon the pyre, and covered with sandal- 
wood, her beautiful long hair depending from the ghastly pile. He muttered over some rite, 
and, placing rice upon her mouth, ignited a sort of bamboo broom, touched the flaming torch 
to her hair, and ran swiftly around the fiercely burning mound three times. He then turned 
to me and said: " My duty is done. Can you tell me any better way? She was a good 
woman," etc. I was so filled with horror that I could make no reply, and stood there in 
silence. My wife not desiring to look any longer upon the scene, we turned away. 




LOW CASTE HINDOOS. 



But India is the land of superstition and fanatical enthusiasm. Among the curious and 
remarkable religious devotees of this land may be mentioned the Fakirs. In the illustration on 
next page one of them is represented as standing upon one foot. In this position they stand 
for hours or days and even for weeks. Others swing their bodies in the air by being sus- 
pended from hooks fastened in their flesh. But the facts are horrible to contemplate, and we 
leave them to the imagination of the reader, thankful that in our own beloved land religious 
enthusiasm and devotional zeal takes more agreeable and less harmful forms. 

During our stay in Calcutta the Prince of Wales made his famous visit to India, and as 
the time for the arrival of the Prince, the future Emperor of India, was at hand, the city was 
thoroughly aglow with expectancy, and all other matters were set aside in order to do be- 
coming "honor to the king." The preparations which had been and were being made were 
on the most gigantic scale. Triumphal arches of great width and many feet in height had 
been reared at the entrances of the most prominent streets, grand displays were upon every 
street corner, while miles on miles of "public and private buildings were festooned, garlanded, 
and decorated with the richest magnificence. The Hoogly River was crowded for a long 



RECEPTION OF THE PRINCE OF WALES. 



distance above and below the city with greater and lesser ships, whose sides and rigging were 
literally clothed with bunting, and the flags of all nations flying from their masts. 

In due time the great British man-of-war Serapis came to anchor with the Prince on board, 
and preparations for his landing commenced. The wharves and streets were cloSely packed 
with at least one hundred thousand people of all nations, lands, and climes, and, mingled 
with the gayly dressed natives from every part of India, turband with the brightest colors, 
presented a strange and novel spectacle. The maharajahs and rajahs, native kings and princes, 
clad in rich velvet and satin vestments, broidered with silver and gold, and sparkling from 
head to foot with glittering gems, sat proudly upon their finely-caparisoned steeds in front 




FAKIR, INDIA. 



of their bronze-faced retinues. These were also richly dressed; the finest feathers were pinned 
to their turbans with diamonds, which gleamed in the throng like so many resplendent stars. 
The reception committee had strewn with the rarest tropical flowers the walk on which 
the Prince was to pass from the landing to his carriage; while a bower of evergreen, gar- 
landed with beautiful scarlet blossoms, was to shield his royal person from the rays of the 
sun. The moment had come when his feet first pressed the soil of India, and the cannon 
from a hundred ships and the naval fortifications welcomed him with hoarse-throated thun- 
ders, which caused the earth to quake, and filled the air with trembling, while great, hot col- 
umns of smoke rolled into the skv from land and sea. The occasion and its attendant pcmp 



RECEPTION OF THE PRINCE OF WALES. 



87 



and circumstance were replete with exhibitions of human power and grandeur, and were 
greatly enhanced by the presence of the native royalty in force, with their numerous bands 
of bronze-faced soldiery, clad in gorgeous robes and uniforms of every color of the prism, 
while their piercing black eyes gleamed with brilliant intensity as they stood in serried ranks, 
headed by the tawny-eyed prince and potentate of this famed Eastern Empire. 

The Bishop of Calcut- 
ta, accompanied by Lord 
Northcote, the Viceroy 
of India, and a large ret- 
inue of prominent offi- 
cials and native kings 
and princes, was the first 
to greet the Prince. The 
bishop read to him the 
address of welcome, 
which precious docu- 
ment, inclosed in a box 
of gold, and reposing 
iipon a velvet cushion, 
was borne in the proces- 
sion by a sentinel. After 
the address came the in- 
troductions and hand- 
shaking, while the bands 
made the air resonant 
with the national anthem, 
"God save the Queen." 
The great assemblage 
then formed in proces- 
sion, and moved through 
the principal streets, pass- 
ing under the triumphal 
arches and their loyal in- 
scriptions, with the Prince 
at the front, who was re- 
ceived with the waving 
of flags, banners, and 
handkerchiefs, while the 
air was filled with the 
music and cheers. The 
Prince appeared in the 
uniform of an English 
soldier, having on his 
head a helmet surmount- 
ed with his three-feather- 
ed plume. His carriage 
was immediately followed 
by the English and native 
regiments of the line, and 
by the respective com- 
mands of the maharajahs 
and rajahs, it being drawn 
by four beautiful white 
horses. 

The exercises and fes- 
tivities of the evening 

were even more grand and imposing ihan those of the day, the whole city being illuminated 
with a blaze of splendor, to accomplish which every device for turning darkness into light 
was brought into use. Mile after mile of streets glowed with streams of fire. The buildings 
were fairly wreathed with millions of Chinese lanterns of variegated colors, while great ban- 
ners lettered in flame bore the inscriptions "God bless the noble Prince," "God keep the 







ss 



NIGHT TRA VELING IN INDIA. 



absent Princess," "God bless our future King." It was altogether a day and a night never 
to be forgotten by the people of the Indian Empire; and as I looked upon its pageantry, and 
heard the multitude hail their future monarch, I could not help thinking what a day that will 
be, when the great Ruler of the universe, the Prince of Peace, shall come to claim His own. 
Finally, tired in limb and weary in brain, we repaired to our beds, but far too much excited 
by the day's proceedings to enjoy quiet sleep, although the next day was to witness our de- 
parture for the up-country. 

At ir o'clock on the evening of December 29th, after bidding the ladies at the "Home" 
good-bye, and taking leave of a number of friends who had assembled at the depot, we took 
the train for Benares, seven hundred and sixty miles distant, this being our first railroad ride 
in India. I give here an illustration of Indian traveling as it was ; and I must confess that,. 




TRAVELING IN INDIA AS IT WAS. 



although Indian traveling as it is, is not the most enjoyable, it is at least not subject to incon- 
veniences such as those portrayed in our sketch, and is, therefore, much to be preferred to 
the older mode. Most of the people avail themselves of night travel in this country, it being 
hot and dusty in the day; so with pillows, blankets, lunch-baskets, and my dear ones at my 
side, we took our compartments in the English-built, first-class car, and soon were speeding 
on our way, tired enough to go to sleep without being rocked or lullabied. The scenery along 
the route was, for the most part, quite monotonous. Indeed, had it not been for the mud- 
houses and the ox-carts with their many yokes of toiling cattle, their bronze-faced drivers, and 
the immense fields of the castor-bean, we could have imagined ourselves in some portions of 
Illinois. 

From our compartments we also had a view of the awkward implements still used by the 
Hindoos for cultivating and irrigating the soil, for gathering and grinding grain, for cutting 
and sawing timber, for spinning and weaving cotton, silk, and wool, so thoroughly simple as 
never to have taxed inventive genius, and never improved since first brought into use a thou- 
sand years ago. These additional evidences of a half civilized country completely scattered 
our morning fancies of being in the great railway arteries of industry in our own great West. 

At eight o'clock the evening following our departure from Calcutta, we came in sight of 
the tall spires, stately domes, and myriad pagodas and minarets of the famed city of pagan 
temples. 

Benares is considered the most holy city by the Hindoos, who call it the Lotus of the 
world, and insist that it is perched upon one of the prongs of the idol Shiva's trident. To 
bathe here in the sacred Ganges will, they believe, bring blessing and purification almost in- 
conceivable; and the town teems with Brahmin priests and mendicant fakirs, who subsist upon 



MOIIURRUM FEAST. 



the gifts of the faithful. This idolatrous stream, which is sixteen hundred miles from its 
source to its mouth at the bay of Bengal, is worshiped by millions of Hindoos, and thou- 
sands die in or have their ashes strewn upon its waters annually, expecting to obtain eternal 
life through their efficacy. A bath or dip in the stream is supposed to heal the sick, com- 
fort the dying, and cleanse from sin however black and heinous, while thoughts of it from 
afar will remove the foul effects of sin. 

In company with our good missionary friend, the Rev. Dr. Richardson, we visited sev- 
eral of the Hindoo temples, and saw the sacred oxen and peafowls, and the natives bowing 
to them. 

Now that the English control the government, no money can be had to build new heathen 
temples, or even to repair the old ones, the consequence of which is that many of these struct- 
ures are rapidly going to decay. The ground floors of some of them are sunken several feet 
under water. The Ganges is the river of the Almighty God, and its ebb and flow and flood, 
so silently and rapidly undermining and causing the destruction of those ancient monuments 
aid shrines of heathenism, brings forcibly to mind the Scriptural passage, "And the idols 
He shall utterly abolish.'' 




FEAST OF THE MOHURRUM. 



Close by these temples to false gods, but further removed from old Ganges' waves, stands 
a Christian church, where the gospel is preached every Sabbath, and where the white_ and 
black alike, whose faith is founded on the rock of Christ Jesus instead of upon imaginary 
spirits dwelling in idols and temples builded on the sand, meet to praise and glorify His name. 
To my service of song that evening there was a goodly gathering, and the two hours seemed 
to give those attending thorough pleasure. 

The next day we walked through several of the narrow streets, darkened by the tall build- 
ings and witnessed many curious sights, among which was a native funeral procession, the 
wails of the women falling sadly upon our ears. 

While here the Mohammedan festival, called the Mohurrum, took place. This is an an- 
nual feast and lasts three days. In the gorgeous pageant men may be seen bearing upon their 
shoulders pagoda-like structures supposed to represent the tombs of the martyrs. They are 
covered with 'gilt and tinsel, some of them being thirty feet in height. While the soft strains 



9 o 



SIGHT-SEEING IN INDIA. 



of miuij were wafted in the air, indeed the surging mass, with the many-colored robes and 
great turbans, seemed like fairy creations. And the desire to behold an oriental scene was 
fully satisfied. 

Our next journey was to Allahabad. On our arrival we were met by the Rev. J. H. 
Anderson, a Baptist missionary, and escorted to the American Zenana home, to which place 
we had been previously invited. We were kindly received, and found delightful quiet. The 
house was large and the compound spacious, the latter being irrigated with water drawn by 




SIGHT-SEEING IN INDIA. 



oxen from wells. Natives with the skins of goats filled with water, and carried under their 
left arms, sprinkled the flowers and gardens, which are ten inches below the raised avenues 
or paths leading through the grounds. 

At the close of my evening service in this city an English officer invited myself and family 
to ride about the city next day. Judge of our surprise on being called out at an early hour 
next morning to take a seat upon a large and gorgeously caparisoned elephant, from which 
elevation we took in the sights of Allahabad. 

This was formerly a Mohammedan town, and called by them the city of God; but it 
has relapsed from the old faith into that of Brahma. It is located on the banks of the River 
Jumma, just before its entrance into the Ganges, — is the junction of the Bombay and Calcutta 
lines of railway with those of Northern India, and the capital of the north-western provinces. 



TAJ MAHAL. 



9> 



Through its streets we passed on a level with its second-story windows, our native driver guid- 
ing the mammoth and intelligent king of the larger beasts by touching his ears with an iron 
hook. We rode through the native portion of the city, with its clay walls — which seemed 
strong enough in dry weather, but which crumble and fall in wet seasons — and passed the old 
fort, and the blood-tree, which many of the Hindoos worship. Then we were jostled on the 
back of this great servant of mankind through the English portion of the place, which appeared 
to much advantage, and in which the trees gave refreshing shade. 

After giving an evening of song here, we took train for Agra at midnight, the richness 
and architecture of whose tombs excel those of any other land or clime. On the wide seats 
of the cars we spread our comforts and pillows, awakening in the early morning to enjoy a 
view of an interesting country as far as natural beauty is concerned, but more intensely inter- 
esting on account of the appearance of the people, and the agricultural employments in which 
they were indolently engaged, aided by the use of the rudest implements for tilling and irriga- 




ENTRAXCE TO TAJ MAHAL. 



ting the soil. Here we saw vast wheat-fields watered from hundreds of wells, from which the 
water was drawn by ox-power and caught in leather bags or buckets, and thus conducted 
over the grounds ; here were large, purple-hued plantations of the castor-bean, from which 
the oil is expressed, and which "is also planted and harvested with the most ancient of tools 
and appliances. We were much amused at the methods used by the natives in making ex- 
cavations in the soil or clay, carrying away all debris in baskets on their heads, while small 
columns of earth were left standing beside the wells or holes to indicate their depth, the 
excavators being so dishonest that their employers compel them to keep this kind of "double 
entry" of depth in order to ascertain the exact amount due for their labor, and to prevent 
cheating in their work. 

Arriving at the city about noon we were met at the station by Mr. T. Bailey, and con- 
veyed to his pleasant home, where we found every thing most charmingly arranged for health 
and comfort in this tropical climate, and where we were most hospitably entertained by this 
Christian banker and his wife and daughters. After a refreshing night's rest, our host gave 



92 



TAJ MAHAL. 



us a splendid morning drive about the city. We visited the fort, a circular wall of massive 
red sandstone, one mile and a half in circumference, seventy feet in height, and once the 
residence of an ancient Indian king. Within the fort we came upon the crumbling ruins of 
some of the finest architecture extant; but only the imperial palace and Pearl Mosque remain 
in a sufficient state of preservation to give one an idea of the past regal grandeur and mag- 
nificence of the buildings. 

The following morning we made our visit to the Taj Mahal, the grandest monument of 
the spiritual love of man for woman, built from the materials of earth, and adorned with the 
highest intelligence of human skill and craft. It was Shah Jehan, a grandson of the mighty 
king Akbar, the Cassar of India, who extended the Mogul Empire from Indus to the Bay of 
Bengal, and who not only built the fort of Agra, the great and massive tomb Futtehpore 
Sikra, to Sheik Selim Christi, his religious monitor, but also his own imposing and wonderful 
tomb at Secundra. He outrivaled his great ancestor, and both the ancient and the modern 
world, in the erection of this beautiful tomb-palace over the ashes of his sultana, Bunoo Begum, 
whom in life and death he loved with a surpassing love. 




TAJ MAHAL. 



Tradition has it that this beloved and loving woman exacted a promise from Shah Jehan 
at her death that he would build her the most beautiful tomb on earth, and also that he would 
not marry again. But those most familiar with the emotions of the human heart reject this 
latter request as improbable from a woman who could inspire in her lifetime the lasting affec- 
tion and fidelity exhibited by her bereaved lord after she had passed away in her loveliness 
and devotedness from the earth and his sight. 

Taj Mahal rises in solemn grandeur and beauty in the center of finely terraced grounds, 
on a slight eminence on the west bank of the Jumma, about three miles from the city, and 
is surrounded with twenty-five acres of land, laid out in immense gardens of indescribable 
richness and magnificence. Within its groves carol all the sweetest songsters of the air, 
springing fountains and silver streams leap up murmuringly on every hand, and the choicest 



TAJ MAHAL. 93 

and most beautiful flowers fill the atmosphere with the rare fragrance of perfume which only 
Oriental climes can boast. The grounds are surrounded by high, massive walls of brown 
stone, not unlike those used in the fronts of many of our Fifth Avenue residences, the en- 
trance being through a grand gateway of immense proportions, overhung by an arch eighty 
feet in height, composed of the same stone, and adorned with panelings of white marble. 
These panels are covered with texts from the Koran; the letters are most skillfully inlaid with 
black marble ; each tablet or panel is surmounted with a delicate white marble minaret, and 
the massiveness of the arch and its architectural embellishments is calculated to impress the 
beholder with astonishment. Such exhibitions of man's creative faculty in the rearing of ma- 
jestic buildings, composed of giant blocks of stone, arranged in the most beautiful shapes, 
inspire the mind with awe. 

We passed beneath this mighty arch and trod the paved walks of variegated marbles, 
bordered with stone water-trenches, along which ran curbing of richly carved marble, bor- 
dered with the rarest and loveliest flowers. Through the vista of waving cypress-trees inter- 
sected with fountains, we beheld the Taj, situated on an elevated square of thirty feet in 
height, which is paved with white and colored marble blocks, with a beautifully proportioned 
but slender white marble minaret rising at each corner of the platen full two hundred and 
seventy-five feet into the air. In the center of this square, which is supported on its four 
sides by foundation walls of solid granite, stands the Taj, an octagonal structure of polished 
white marble, one hundred and fifty feet long at each point of the compass, and surmounted 
by a huge dome seventy feet in diameter, which glistens in the sun like a burnished castle 
of silver, and tapers from a globular into a spiral shape, terminating with a golden crescent. 
Four smaller domes of the same beautiful form crown the center of the facades, which rise 
two-thirds the height of the edifice over the four entrances or porches entering the tomb, a 
series of lesser arches being built in below them and extending inwards, upon and about which 
the entire chapters of the Koran are lettered in delicately inlaid black marble. The Taj, or 
tomb-palace, is two hundred and forty-five feet in height, while the distance from the tessel- 
ated pavement to the golden crescent is two hundred and seventy-five feet. 

But if we find the majesty of the outward view of this wonderful structure to baffle de- 
scription, how can we hope to depict its matchless wealth of loveliness within, which rests 
lather than wearies our sight with grand visions, filling our souls with longing anticipations 
for the "house of many mansions, whose Maker and builder is God" — a home of everlasting 
life instead of a mausoleum of the dead ? Through the great kindnes*s of the superintendent, 
Mr. Smith, we were permitted to see the exterior of the tomb by moonlight and the interior 
by lamp-light, both of which sights filled us with wonder and admiration, and left an impres- 
sion upon our minds never to be effaced. 

Upon entering the tomb, beneath you in the very center of the structure, in a sunken 
circular chamber in the main floor, you behold the sarcophagi of Bunoo Begum and Shah 
Jehan. That of the empress is in the center of the chamber, and that of the emperor just 
by its side, both being constructed of spotless marble as white as the falling snow. But the 
glory of the building is embodied in its matchless dome of purest white marble glittering with 
precious stones, through which a single delicate stream of light falls with mellowed softness 
on the tombs below. ' ' The floor of this dome-vaulted chamber is of polished marble and 
jasper, ornamented with wainscoting of sculptured marble tablets, inlaid with flowers formed 
of precious stones. Around are windows of screens of marble filigree, richly wrought in va- 
rious patterns, which admit a faint and delicate illumination into the gorgeous apartment, all 
of which is of purest marble, so pierced and carved as to look like a high curtain of most 
exquisite lace-work, but is even far more refining, for everywhere along the panels are wreaths 
of flowers composed of lapis lazuli, jasper, chalcedony, carnelian, and other gems, so that to 
make one of the hundreds of these boquets a hundred different stones are required." 

All this magnificence was executed for the empress, while Shah Jehan contemplated build- 
ing a tomb as beautiful for himself on the other side of the river Jumma, designing to connect 
the two with a bridge of ivory. But giving up the latter project he decided to occupy the 
Taj with his empress, and consequently applied the purest marble and richest gems to the 
construction of her sarcophagus. The Rev. Dr. William Butler, who has the great honor of 
being the founder of Methodism of India, in his very interesting book entitled, "The Land 
of the Veda," thus describes her tomb: "But her tomb, how beautiful! The snow-white 
marble is inlaid with flowers of precious stones, so delicately formed that they look like em- 
broidery on white satin, so exquisitely executed in mosaic with carnelian, blood-stone, agate, 
jasper, turquoise, lapis lazuli, and other gem-stones!" On one side of her tomb, recorded in 
Arabic, the sacred language of the Mohammedans, each letter formed of gems, is the name 



94 



TAJ MAHAL. 



of the empress, the date of her death, and a tribute to her virtuous qualities. The tomb of 
the emperor, though not so costly, has his name and the date of his death inscribed upon it, 
and is ornamented with flower-work in brilliant gems. 

The great dome which rises above their last resting-place is so constructed as to produce 
an echo, which is unrivaled for its purity and sweetness. Seated on the marble floor beneath 
this great structure with my dear family at my side, Superintendent Smith said, "Sing some- 




I-AI.ACH OF DELHI. 



thing." Accordingly, my son James struck up to the hymn of the "Better Land, ; ' whose soft 
cadences were repeated by the echo with overpowering and sublime sweetness. The melody, 
passing from earth to heaven, seemed to be caught up by choir after choir in the ascent, and 
re-uttered by millions of unseen vocalists of the air, and could only be compared to that which 
we all some time hope to hear when the angel convoy of glory shall descend to earth to 
bear our ransomed spirits home. 

Says a brilliant author in speaking of this most singular phenomenon: "It is the very 
element of which sweet dreams are builded. It is the melancholy echo of the past, and the 



SIGHTS (>/■ OLD DELHI. 



95 



bright, delicate harping of the future. It is the atmosphere breathed by Ariel, and playing 
about the fountains of Chindori. It is the spirit of Taj, the voice of the inspired love which 
called into being the peerless wonder of the world, and elaborated its symmetry, and composed 
its harmony, and 
eddying around its 
grand minarets and 
domes, blended 
them without a line 
in the azure of im- 
mensity." 

Leaving Agra 
we came to the an- 
cient sites and pres- 
ent city of Delhi, 
which is the most 
eminently historic 
in all India, and 
which as it now 
stands was com- 
menced to be built 
in 1647. It is en- 
circled by a mass- 
ive wall of five and 
one-half miles in 
length, which is 
pierced with ten 
gates, the principal 
ones in use by the 
Europeans being 
the Cashmere, Ca- 
bul, and Mora. 
The ruins of the 
former cities of 
that name which 
surround the pres- 
ent Delhi cover a 
territory of not less 
than forty-five sq. 
miles. Here, it is 
asserted, fully a 
dozen proud cities 
have been built by 
Persian, Moham- 
medan, and Brah- 
min, and con- 
quered and razed 
in their turn. Fol- 
lowing the lead of 
Sultan Mahmoud 
in the eleventh 
century, who com- 
menced the subju- 
gation of Northern 
India, Tamerlane 
in 1398 advanced 
on Delhi, which 

he occupied and where he established the great Mogul Empire, which Great Britain only suc- 
ceeded in entirely suppressing in the period extending from 1803 to 1857. 

Towering two hundred and thirty-eight feet in the air and overlooking all these miles of 
ruins is the famous Kootal Minor, which is claimed to be the highest pillar in the world, a 
massive circular column of fluted red sandstone and marble, rising in five sections, or stories, 




THE JL'.MMA ML'SJID, DELHI. 



9 6 



INDIA'S PALACES. 



the base of each story being ornamented with a landing and balustrade, and all wonderfully 
graduated from the base to the apex. Upon this pillar are carved texts from the Koran in 
Arabic letters, while a circular iron staircase rises from the earth to its summit. For what 
purpose or by whom this time-defying work of centuries, now thought to be fully three thou- 
sand old, was built, is not known. A cylindrical iron shaft, sixteen feet thick and sixty feet 
in length, and thought to weigh seventeen tons, which stands upright in the earth quite near 
the pillar, is, if any thing, of still greater antiquity. Here, too, is seen the tomb of Huma- 
yuan, more massive and imposing than those of Agra, with its great dome of white marble 
resting on arcades of red sandstone inlaid with richly carved ornaments of the former material. 
We took advantage of the charming weather to visit several other places of interest, among 
which was the Jumma Musjid, the most famous as well as magnificent mosque on the earth. 
This wonderful structure is built on a rocky eminence, within the inclosure of the city walls, 
and extends from the Cashmere to the Delhi gate. It has three massive gateways of red sand- 




ONE OF INDIA'S PALACES. 



SCENES ABOUT LUC KNOW. 



97 



stone, approached by three magnificent flights of steps composed of the same material, all of 
which led into an immense quadrangular court, occupied in the center by a spacious reservoir 
of water. On the west side of this court stands the mosque, two hundred and twenty feet 
long by twenty feet in width, which is surmounted with marble cupolas and gilded spires. At 
each end of the structure are two beautiful minarets, composed of white and black marble, 
each rising to a height of one hundred and thirty feet. Here we saw the Mohammedans at 




jftw^t-WWA/tasoM- /worn- re 



HINDOO WOMAN. 



their devotions. After washing at the basin, they removed their sandals and knelt on the 
white marble squares with which their mosque was paved. Each block or square is designed 
for the use of a single worshiper, the entire floor being surrounded with an inlaid border of 
black and white marble. 

We next visited the crumbling and thoroughly stripped palace of Shah Jehan, from which 

the British soldiers were driven in the great mutiny of 1857; as also the heights which those 

brave men afterward occupied and fortified, withstanding a six months' siege, and from whence, 

being reinforced, they descended and retook both the palace and the city. After inspecting 

7 



9 8 



SCENES ABOUT LUC KNOW. 



these historic spots we made our way to our hospitable quarters. Here, too, the people were 
full of bustle and anxious preparation, looking forward to the coming of the Prince, whom 
they were to entertain with a mock battle, firing blank cartridges, in which twenty thousand 




MONKEY TEMPLE, LUCKNOW. 



soldiers were to take part, and which was to be illustrative of the retaking of Delhi from the 
mutineers. Therefore, bidding this locality, so full of ancient and modern interest, adieu, we 
took the night train for Lucknow, the capital of Oude. 

Arriving at the famous capital of the ancient Indian kingdom of Oude, which has be- 
come a sort of Methodist center in this empire, we were driven to the American Mission 



l.UCKNOW TO CAWNPORE. 99 



Home, presided over by Miss Thoburn, assisted by a noble band of lady associates, who are 
doing a great and good work. My three services were held in the Methodist Episcopal 
Church, which is undoubtedly the largest edifice of the denomination in Northern India, and 
all of them were well attended and seemed to be generally appreciated. In addition to other 
branches of our denominational work in this city, is a sort of Methodist book-house, and also 
a newspaper, established by Rev. J. M. Thoburn, and now edited by Rev. J. M. Mudge, 
entitled The Lucknou< Witness. The advantage and influence of this paper is felt not only in 
the city and vicinity, but throughout all Northern India. 

Lucknow is built on the south side of the Goomitee River, which is navigable downward 
through its whole course to its confluence with the Ganges. It contains nearly half a million 
inhabitants, and is divided into three distinct quarters, the first being the old native city, or 
"Chowk," spreading over considerable territory, but meanly built, and very dirty; the second 
being the site of the palaces of the native king and the residences of his court, and the third 
consisting of palaces, religious edifices, and European residences. 

The great mutiny broke out at Lucknow, May 30, 1857, and continued until September 
25th of the same year. During this period the English kept up a constant siege, commencing 
the cannonade at daybreak, which continued for three hours, giving themselves a rest through 
the heat uf midday, and again commencing the fire in the afternoon. With the fall of this 
city and the victory of the British troops under the command of General Havelock, the back- 
bone of this fearful rebellion was broken, and the distracted province was restored to peace. 

Among our pleasant experiences here was a ride on an elephant, kindly sent us by a 
rajah for a day's enjoyment. In our seats upon the back of the huge animal we were photo- 
graphed by an accommodating artist, a Urasian gentleman, who was in our company. Riding 
through the native portion of the city we were enabled from our commanding position to 
obtain a fine view; but the panorama of strange sights, and the babel of strange sounds which 
came to our eyes and ears as we threaded the narrow avenues, crowded with native bazars, 
baffles all power of description. 

We could not depart from this famous locality without driving some four miles in a 
gharry in company with Mrs. Waugh, one of the noble ladies of the American Home, who 
kindly acted as our "friend, philosopher, and guide" to several places of interest. Prominent 
among these was the Residency, which was nearly rendered a mass of ruins in the Sepoy 
mutiny, and in the attack upon and siege of which by the insurgents the English residents 
and soldiery endured such horrible sufferings. Almost within the shadow of these ruins we 
came upon the quiet and peaceful spot where repose the remains of the gallant Christian 
soldier, Sir Henry Havelock, whose life proved to be the ransom paid for the great victory 
gained in 1857. His simple grave and monument are overshadowed by a large and beautiful 
tamarind tree, from which we plucked some dark green leaves in token of our visit, and bade 
a sad and reverential farewell to the silent sleeper beneath it. 

After a glance at the home of Dr. Butler, while he was resident here, and a visit to the 
magnificent tomb of one of the ancient kings of the province, we came to a monkey temple. 
The grounds and surroundings, as well as the interior of this building, fairly swarmed with 
troops of these curious and cunning animals, which are here held in sacred veneration. As 
at the temple at Benares, they were left to wander where they pleased, and some of them 
jumped into our- vehicle, mounted the backs of our horses, and indulged in other humorous 
familiarities. 

From Lucknow we went to Cawnpore to attend a session of the North India Conference. 
Here we were delightfully entertained at the splendid home of Arnold Beers, Esq., a prom- 
inent German citizen. This home seemed to be a sort of head-quarters for missionaries and 
good people coming to the town, for it must be remembered that there are no hotels in the 
smaller towns in India, these being found only in the populous centers. In such localities, 
therefore, strangers and visitors are entertained and cared for by the missionaries and their 
associate Christians, who seem to take delight in ministering to the temporal wants of Amer- 
ican and European travelers, as well as caring for the souls of men. It was a privilege to 
me to attend a Methodist Conference in a heathen land, and note the rapid progress of the 
Church during the few short years since it had been planted here by Dr. William Butler, 
as also to hear the sixty ministers and their working companions devising methods and plans 
to give the gospel to the famishing millions of that far-off land. 

Before leaving Cawnpore we visited the site of one of the most intensely horrible scenes 
of the mutiny of 1857, where some two hundred women and children were ruthlessly butch- 
ered by the Sepoys, cast shrieking into a great well, and there left to die — an act of barbarity 



INDIA. 



without parallel in the annals of history. Over this well the government has built a magnifi- 
cent monument, with an appropriate inscription recording the event. 

A very pleasant incident during our stay here was our attendance upon a charming 
"tiffin," or garden party, which was held on very pleasant grounds some five miles distant 
from the town, a large number of the members of the conference with their wives being 
present. 




MEMORIAL WELL, CAWNPORE. 



Here I was handed by Rev. B. H. Badley, the secretary of the India Methodist Epis- 
copal Conference, a copy of a resolution adopted by that body extending to me a most cordial 
welcome. 

The next morning we again took the train to revisit Allahabad, and after a pleasant 
journey, soon found ourselves among the rank and file of the followers of the Lamb and sol- 
diers of the Cross in the salvation army of the Indian provinces. Here at this time took 
place two gatherings of worshipers of the widest distinction. Supplied with horse, bullock, 



BOMBAY— THE PA USEES. 



and elephant conveyance, we went with a party of Christian ladies and gentlemen to look 
upon one of the great heathen fetes of the Hindoos called "Mela," which is held annually 
at the mouth of the river Jumma, where it enters the Ganges. This is considered by the 
Hindoos to be the holiest spot on the sacred river, and hither the poor heathen make annual 
pilgrimage from hundreds of miles around to bathe and make offerings, occupying temporary 
huts or booths in which they offer their wares and trinkets to purchasers. Here we saw a 
perfect army of blind, disfigured, and disabled men and women asking alms, and hundreds of 
fakirs, or holy men as they are called, their faces begrimed with smoke, their bodies sprinkled 
with dirt and ashes, and their hair singed and matted, all busy with their idolatrous and 
blasphemous rites. So much heathenism in its vilest and most disgusting forms made our 
souls sick and our hearts ache. 

We returned to the city to attend another gathering, which was that of the first India 
Sunday-school Convention, to which I had come by special invitation to sing the songs of 
Zion, and where were gathered the leading Sunday-school workers of India. 

Oh, what a contrast was here as we lifted our hearts to Jesus and counseled how we could 
best make known and glorify His name to the pitiable scenes being enacted upon the banks 
of the Ganges by poor, deluded, and misguided men and women ! We were housed and 
dined with the delegates to the convention in a large bungalo, which was our first experience 
in a native residence, and the occasion and the circumstances will never be forgotten. 

Taking the night train we arrived the following afternoon at Bombay, having been greatly 
interested on the route by the miles and miles of cobcactus with which the railway was for- 
midably and securely fenced in. Bombay is one of the greatest commercial centers, has the 
finest and most spacious harbor, and is really the golden gate of India. It is built on Bombay 
Island, which is connected with the island of Salsette, as also with the main land, by extensive 
causeways. It has a mixed population of all nations, tongues, and kindred. Its most dis- 
tinguished, prosperous, intelligent, and public-spirited citizens are the Parsees, descendants 
from the ancient Persian worshipers of fire, who are also noted for their commercial and busi- 
ness qualifications and for their great wealth, and are in charge of most of the government 
works of the city. 

We took up our quarters for a few days at the Esplanade Hotel, a massive structure, 
seven stories in height. In fact, most of the government and mercantile buildings of this great 
city are noteworthy, spacious, and imposing. Then, too, unlike other Indian cities, the streets 
and dwellings more exclusively occupied by the English are with difficulty designated from 
those of the natives, as all are of quite modest and modern construction, and embowered in 
the shade of the favorite cocoanut-palm, planted in the streets, yards, and gardens by the 
thousand. 

Here also, as in Calcutta, are miles on miles of native bazars, in which all castes, sects, 
and colors sell their fruits and wares. As the crowds pass along the streets, the eye is re- 
lieved, not only by the appearance of those clad in garments of European fashion and fabric, 
but by the awkward funnel-shaped hats worn by the Parsee men, as also by the bright colored 
silk dresses and turbans of their wives and daughters. 

I gave several of my services, and in no city of the East did I receive a more hearty 
reception than in Bombay, for not only was I warmly welcomed by the Baptist, Methodist, 
Presbyterian, and Wesleyan Missions, but the Church of England people met me with great 
cordiality. Here I met the Rev. George Bowen, editor of the Bombay Gua?'dian, and Mr. 
Henry Conder, one of the managers of the great India Railway. While singing here, the 
Bombay Gazette did me the great honor of publishing a sketch of my life, speaking in 
highest compliment and with much enthusiasm of my singing services, for all of which I 
felt thankful for the sake of the cause in which I was engaged as well as for myself. I also 
attended a large tea-meeting, held by the city merchants, where I met a number of distin- 
guished Parsees. 

The Parsees are of Persian origin, and are disciples of Zoroaster, who is supposed to have 
brought his sacred fire from heaven. That portion of the race which wandered from Persia 
to India after they had been conquered by the Mohammedans, and who were taken under 
protection by the Rajah of Guzerat, claim to have brought hither with them this sacred fire, 
which has never been extinguished, and which their priests keep burning in their temples, 
feeding it with the choicest woods and spices. They recognize one omnipresent, omnipotent, 
and invisible God without form, the creator, ruler, and preserver of the universe, and the last 
judge, whom they call Ormazd. They believe in astrology, and that the stars have a benef- 
icent influence upon the affairs of men, and, to those who understand them, can reveal the 
secrets of the future. While they abominate idols, they reverence fire and the sun as emblems 



102 INDIA. 

of the supreme deity, the sun being recognized as the eye of Ormazd, their God. Their re- 
ligion enjoins prayer, obedience, industry, honesty, hospitality, charity, chastity, and truthful- 
ness; -while envy, hatred, anger, revenge, and polygamy are strictly forbidden. They have 
borrowed somewhat the fashion of priesthood and caste from the Hindoos, and their funeral 
rites and the disposal of their dead are very strange. Their cemeteries are erected on a 
high eminence, and are in the form of a circle, being smoothly paved with stone and sur- 
rounded with high walls, which rise even above the tops of tall trees within the inclosure. 
Upon the summit of a lofty stone tower, built in the center of the inclosure, is an open iron 
grating upon which they lay the naked bodies of their dead to be stripped of flesh by birds of 
prey. The bones, falling through the grating into a pit or common receptacle beneath, are 
in due time secretly removed through subterranean passages. The males have worn the same 
ungainly and peculiar shaped hat for ages. The number of Parsees resident in India and 
its adjacent islands is estimated at about one hundred and twenty-five thousand. 

Completing my arrangements for a trip to Madras on an absence of two weeks, I accepted 
the kind invitation of Miss Butts to leave my family at the Church of England Mission Home, 
located in Byculla, a charming little suburb of Bombay. While there my dear wife gained 
additional insight into the methods of this most important branch of the India mission work, 
which is so vitally aided by the English and American lady physicians. The skill of these 
ladies is so greatly prized by the native idolaters of all castes that they soon gain access into 
their homes to attend to the medical wants of the women and children, and in so doing often 
pave the way for the admittance of the Zenana teachers. 

A few of the pupils at this church home boarded there, and were instructed in the En- 
glish and Mahratti languages by both English and native pundits. My wife in company with 
Miss Butts visited the Alexandria Institute, presided over by a Parsee gentleman. The school 
was composed of the daughters of well-to-do Parsees, who were here taught drawing, em- 
broidery, and the elementary branches of study. There were about fifty in attendance, all 
wearing bright little turbans handsomely embroidered on silk with beads and precious stones. 
They were robed in the brightest colored silk trowsers, with silk or lace tunics, all of which 
were beautifully embroidered. Their shoes, which were cut high, seemed to represent the 
hues of the rainbow. 

Accompanying Miss Butts, they called upon a Hindoo lady of high caste, who spoke 
English and seemed much inclined to our religion. In another family, where she was teach- 
ing the children embroidery and needle-work, it was very interesting to see the little, eager, 
dark-faced group gathered about her. Here she had recently gained admission, and must 
not force or urge her religious ideas upon the children, but first gain their attention by teach- 
ing them some bright picture, or telling some interesting story. She commenced this day by 
asking these little ones if they ever knew any little boy who never did any thing wrong, never 
told lies, never struck his little friends, and always loved and minded his parents. Of course, 
they replied, they never knew one so good, and she said she would tell them of one such 
good boy. Then gradually she told them in simple, earnest words about the childhood of 
Jesus, never mentioning his name in the connection, but reserving it for future lessons, when, 
as she gains their full love and confidence, she will gradually unfold "the old, old story." 

Taking the train for Madras, seven hundred miles distant, I made my first halt at Poonah, 
where I met our good brother, the Rev. D. O. Fox, working for the Master. I sang in the 
Scotch Presbyterian Church to a great audience, who seemed to be in closest sympathy with 
my work. 

From Poonah I went forward to Secunderbad, in the Decan district, where, in connection 
with the Rev. J. E. Robinson, I held several excellently attended services, which were blessed 
of God to the salvation of many present. Mr. Robinson is a thoroughly active Christian, an 
excellent singer and Sunday-school worker, as well as preacher, and, possessing the love and 
respect of all with whom he comes in contact, is, as a consequence, doing a great and go'od 
work in his locality. Presenting his people with several hundred singing-books, I bade them 
good-bye, even as they were voicing hymns of praise. 

Stopping at Shahabad, I sang my songs to a few who had gathered at the railroad depot 
in a room without chairs or benches, and continued on my journey to Bellary, where I was 
joined by the Rev. C. P. Hard. Here I held a service in a large government school-house, 
which was filled with people. They were so enthusiastic that at the close several contributed 
very liberally towards building a new Methodist chapel, an amount thus being raised nearly 
sufficient to complete the structure. The chapel was subsequently built, and the gospel is 
now preached there. I also gave one other service at this town, which seemed to be a kind 
of military station or government barracks, and where we were kindly cared for by a man 



INDIA. 



103 



of authority among men, who reminded me of the centurion of old. At the close of this 
service Mr. Hard and myself took an all-night's ride by rail, and arrived at Madras, his field 
of labor, in the early morning. 

My first appointments in Madras were in connection with Rev. James Gelling, a most 
successful Wesleyan missionary, who has been stationed here for many years; and, although 
my first service was not largely attended, 1 never felt more thoroughly the presence of the 
Holy Spirit. My second service was to the children, and some four hundred being present 
we had a most delightful and refreshing meeting, which fully repaid me for the discomforts 
of the journey hither. 

Madras borders the open sea-coast for a distance of several miles, and is especially noted 
as the first place where the English began the subjugation of India. It is a beautiful city, 
its spacious districts being separated by fine groves and gardens, while its principal objects 
of interest are its magnificent government buildings and the great Fort of St. George, whose 
esplanade is protected from the sea by a great wall of heavy masonry. 




PANDAL (NATIVE MEETING HOUSE), MADRAS. 



On Sabbath evening I sang in Mr. Hard's church to a large congregation. At the close 
of the service over two thousand rupees were contributed towards building a new chapel, 
which has since been completed and dedicated. On Monday morning at eight o'clock I sang 
to a fine gathering in the large Pandal, and in the afternoon before Dr. Duff's Scottish school, 
composed of four hundred young native students of all ranks aand castes. That evening I 
gave my farewell service before another excellent house in the large Memorial Hall and Bible 
Depository of the East. On coming out of the hall into the street my eyes rested upon the 
curious procession of Mohammedans, called the Marhovrim, a company of nude men be- 
smeared with filth and mud, who were marching to the beat of native drums. 

The next morning, after two weeks of intense and interesting labor, I took the train 
towards Bombay, making my first halt at Bangalore, where, in company with Brothers Hard 
and Newland, I gave a service of an hour and a half in length to a very appreciative audi- 
ence. We all stopped for the night with the Rev. James Shaw, the resident missionary, where 
I dined on the only strawberries and raspberries which I saw while in India. 

I was of course delighted to get back to Bombay and to my dear ones, and found that 
an evening of song in the large parlors of the Missionary Home had been planned for me, 
but being somewhat fatigued I fear I did not sing with my usual freedom. The next morn- 
ing I awoke quite rested and refreshed, and gave my last and farewell song-service in India 
at the great hall, where I was greeted with a fine audience of English-speaking people. 

At my song-sermon in the hall of the Methodist Episcopal Church the same evening 
there was a large attendance, and at the close of the exercises many came forward for pray- 
ers. Being much fatigued, Brother George Bowen said to me, '"You rest, and I will pray 
for these mourners;" and thus I left him on his knees, pouring out his soul to God for the 
salvation and redemption of these poor sinners. Thus ended my ever-to-be-cherished song- 
labors among the Christian and pagan people of the great Eastern Empire. 



104 



THE HOL Y LAND. 



Chapter XIV. — En Route for Palestine. 

^/jiij&NDIA detained us but one night more, and early the next day, accompanied by a few 
IjsK. friends, we boarded a vessel bearing the name of the great empire we were leaving; 
aSKf so that, although we left India, India went with us. 
?('$$>' ^ e ^ad for fellow-passengers the Rev. Mr. Burton and family of Madras, and 

the Rev. Mr. Clark, of Punjab, and Miss Le Fevre, an American lady who was re- 
turning home from her mission work in Burmah. The eight days' passage to Aden, 
the celebrated ostrich-feather seaport, was calm, and we passed the time in conversa- 
tion and reading, and in looking upon the Arabian Sea and its wonders. The waters 
were so clear that we could see the reflection of our steamer, the prow looking like some 
great alligator, or other living monster, moving along with us; and as we came nearer shore 
we could see hundreds of jelly-fish — pretty little pink creatures, with their soft little umbrellas 
spread. At night these waters were beautifully illuminated with phosphorescent light. 

On entering the Red Sea through the straits from the Gulf of Aden, we encountered 
headwinds, which continued almost the entire passage up its long and narrow channel. In 
six days more we entered the Gulf of Suez, with Egypt on the one hand and Arabia on the 

other, and were able to discern the 
Mount Sinai range in the distance. 
As we were gazing for the first 
time upon these scenes, rendered 
so interesting because of Bible 
history, my little son Philip crept 
into my lap with this inquiry: 
' ' Papa, why is not the water of 
this sea red?" I tried to explain, 
and this led to many other ques- 
tions in regard to Bible countries, 
and he seemed astonished to hear 
that scenes of Bible stories took 
place upon our earth instead, as 
he had imagined, in some far-off 
country, of which we had no def- 
inite or particular knowledge. 
This little incident, so character- 
istic of childhood inquiry, seemed 
to say to me, Do not we Christians and Sunday-school teachers mystify and darken the minds 
of our youth by speaking of Biblical scenes and events as so long gone by, and so far away, 
while even as we teach and exhort, the crucified and risen Savior, with the marks of the 
thorns and spears of Judea, is ever present with us? for has he not said emphatically, "Where 
two or three are gathered together in my name, there am I in the midst of them"? 

Going up to Suez, a lonely place situated near the sea on the sand, we entered the 
famous Suez Canal just before sunset, and our steamer was tied up to posts like an ox for 
the night. It was a strange sensation that crept over us here, with a wilderness of desert 
on each side; for we could hear no sound of living or animate thing except that produced 
by ourselves and companions; even the noise of the sea would have been music to our ears 
in this solitude of solitudes. The Suez Canal, as every one knows, is a channel cut from 
Suez to Port Said, connecting the Arabian and Red Sea with the Mediterranean, and is one 
hundred miles in length and three hundred feet in width. No vessel is allowed to enter either 
of its mouths after sunset or before sunrise; and all vessels sailing therein are compelled to 
stop and tie up to posts on the banks during the night, in order to prevent accident from 
collision. There is a telegraph station every five miles along its banks, which regulates the 
passage of vessels as trains are regulated by the same method on railroads. At each of these 
stations can be seen a bit of green sward, all the rest of the land through which this great 
thoroughfare is constructed being a barren stretch of desert sand. 

At six o'clock in the morning the steamer left her mooring, passing Ishmalia about three 
hours later, where we discharged several passengers, reaching Port Said, on the Mediterranean 
Sea, the location of the great electric light-house of the canal, at four o'clock in the after- 
noon. On coming to anchor we were at once surrounded with little crafts most prettily cush- 
ioned with bright chintz, whose pilots were clamorous to take passengers ashore. Coolies 




SUEi CANAL. 



KAMHI.ES IX PALESTIXE. 



105 



swarmed the banks, some of whom took our luggage on their backs and heads to the "Hotel 
de France," they being accustomed to bear the heaviest burdens in this manner; and of such 
strength and muscle were they that we did not so much wonder after all that the pyramids 
reared their massive forms in this land. 

It is always a relief to get on land after a long sea voyage, even if it be the miserable 
land of the Arabs. We remained at Port Said for two days waiting for a steamer, during 
which time it rained incessantly. On Saturday, wet and dripping, we boarded from a little 
boat the steamer Aurora, bound for Joppa and the Holy Land. After we were on board the 
vessel, the storm continued with such violence that we did not move out of the harbor until 
Monday morning, as passengers could not be landed at Joppa in such a boisterous sea. We 
found on board the steamer several Americans, who were bound for Palestine ; and, although 
they were strangers, we were glad to meet our countrymen. There was a large company of 
pilgrims going to "Mecca," and a crowd of the most filthy and hideous-looking second-class 
passengers we ever looked upon. There were twenty-six nationalities represented on our pas- 




JOPPA. 



senger-list. Notwithstanding the storm and delay, we had a service on board the steamer 
in which I sang, and the Rev. Mr. Clark preached a most affecting discourse from the words: 
"And they crucified Him." 

Anchoring off Joppa on Tuesday morning, a distance of one mile from shore, we took 
a small boat and sailed in between the huge old rocks lining the dangerous channel. Our 
landing was effected safely, but not without considerable fear on our part. Oh, what emo- 
tions fill the soul at the first sight of Palestine as caught from the hill of Joppa, "the watch- 
tower of joy and beauty!" At last we beheld the Christ land with our own eyes; but how 
sad it seemed as we touched the sacred soil, to look upon the filth and squalor on every 
side ! At the wharf we were met by a dragoman, who took us through the queer, old, narrow, 
and muddy streets, to the "Jerusalem Hotel," situated in the German quarter of the city. 

After visiting the house of Simon the tanner, we called at the mission and one of its 
schools ; soon after we took horses for Jerusalem and made our first stay at Ramleh. Near 
Joppa we were greatly attracted by the large orchards of orange-trees literally loaded down 
with luscious, seedless fruit, which at this season of the year was at its prime. But as the 
soil is not cultivated to any extent, except in the immediate vicinity of the towns and cities 
of Palestine, we gladly left these scenes behind us, and, after twelve miles ride, came to the 
quiet old city of Ramleh, situated in a fertile valley. Having ridden with my little Phillie 
in front, I was glad to dismount from my hard Arabian saddle, and rest. We stopped for 



t 

1 06 



JEK U SALEM. 



the night at a curiously constructed old Latin convent, where we were hospitably entertained; 
our stone-paved bed-rooms, opening into a large court, were lighted from the top instead of 
sides. Amid the ruins of old towers, walls, and vaults, we slept soundly on this our first 
night in the Holy Land. 

We resumed our journey in the early morning, and passing over the plains of Esdrselon, 
we came into a mountainous country abounding in wooded ravines, flowers of various hues 
adorning the way. The view became more and more interesting as we ascended the hills lead- 
ing up to Jerusalem. Some five miles from the city we were met by our good consul, Dr. De 
Hass, who was mounted on a fine white horse, and who escorted us thither, pointing out the 
many places of interest on the way, among which were the tomb of Samuel, Mount Olivet, 
Mount Moriah, and Mount Zion. 




JERUSALEM AND GETHSEMANE. 



We entered the Joppa gate into the city, and took up our quarters in the Mediterranean 
Hotel. Though thoroughly fatigued, such had been our emotions at the sight of so many 
scenes and objects with which our Bible had made us familiar, that it was long before sleep 
visited us, situated as we were with the window of our apartments looking out upon the pool 
of Hezekiah. We could hardly understand the next morning that we had come into the real- 
ization of our hopes, and were indeed beholding the sun rise in the land of the prophets. 

After breakfast we took a stroll in the narrow, ill-paved streets, which were dark and 
filthy, and crowded with a motley assemblage 'of people, and purchased some souvenirs of 
our visit. During the forenoon we changed our quarters to the Cazenovia or Latin Convent, 
where we found pleasant apartments, and after a call at the consul's in the afternoon with a 
small party, we visited the Mosque of Omar, built over the ruins of King Solomon's temple, 
and inclosing the ground where God tested the faith of Abraham to the point of offering his 
only son for sacrifice. The mosque is a beautiful structure, and with its grounds occupies 
nearly one-fifth the area of the city ; but its intense interest to us was because of its hallowed 
associations. Near the golden gate we mounted the walls of the city, from which we could 
see more prominently that Jerusalem was situated on an elevation, with the higher peaks of 



RAMBLES IN PALESTINE. 



107 




THE MOSQUE OF OMAR. 

Judea rising in the distance; but we fixed our earnest gaze down the valley of Jehoshaphat 
to the garden of Gethsemane, a small patch of ground covering perhaps half an acre enclosed 
by a stone wall eight or ten feet high. Some of the olive-trees here are supposed to be one 
thousand years old, and some claim them to be the identical trees which grew here in the 
time of our Savior. 

The olive-tree 
often perpetuates it- 
self by sending up 
shoots from the dy- 
ing parent stem, 
which in time forms 
a new tree. It may, 
therefore, be possi- 
ble that some of 
these trees sprang 
up from the very 
ones under which 
Jesus and his dis- 
ciples reclined. 

When viewing 
old Jerusalem from 
these turreted bat- 
tlements, the old 
hymn came whis- 
pering to me breath- 
ing of the New Je- 
rusalem, a city not 
made with hands, 
eternal in the heav- 
ens: GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 




WG^Sv 



io8 



RAMBLES IN PALESTINE. 



" Jerusalem, my happy home, 
ame ever dear to me, 

shall my labors have an end 
joy and peace in thee." 

the course of the day 
was introduced to the 
Reverend Bishop Bogart, 
who kindly invited me 
to give one of my serv- 
ices in Saint Paul's 
Church. I was glad 
to have the way thus 
opened to sing in the 
city of David, him- 
self the sweet singer 
of Israel. I had a 
good attendance on 
this occasion, and at 
its close one of the 
audience, a very 
intelligent looking 
young German resi- 
dent, said that my 
singing had been the 
means of bringing 
him to Christ; this 
filled my heart with 
rejoicing as I left the 
edifice. 

The next day 
our party went out- 
side the city walls, 
leaving by the Da- 
mascus gate, to visit, 
the quarries from 
which the immense 
stones used in the 
erection of Solo- 
mon's temple were 
obtained. Return- 
ing, we stopped at 
the' Church of the 
Holy Sepulcher, cer- 
tain parts of which 
are common proper- 
ty, all sects — Latin, 
Greek, Armenian, 
and Coptic — having 
free access to them. 
The principal 
part of the building 
is the rotunda, which 

has a dome open at the top, like the Pantheon. Beneath the dome stands the Holy Sepul- 
cher, a little structure like a church in miniature, encased in white stone profusely orna- 
mented, and surmounted by a crown-shaped cupola. It contains two small chambers — the 
first called the "Chapel of the Angel," and said to be the place where the angel sat after 
he had rolled away the stone from the door of the sepulcher. 
The stone itself is there too! 

Through this we pass and enter the Sepulcher by a very low door. It is a vault meas- 
uring six feet by seven. The tomb — a raised couch covered with a slab of white marble — 




CHURCH OF THE HOI.Y SEPULCHER. 



MOUNT OF O LIVES. 



109 




THE JORDAN VALLEY. 



occupies the whole of the 
right side. Over it hang 
forty lamps of gold and sil- 
ver kept constantly burn- 
ing. 

I lingered long here — 
solemnized, almost awe- 
stricken — looking at pil- 
grim after pilgrim in end- 
less succession, crawling in 
on bended knees, putting 
lips, forehead, and cheeks 
to the cold marble, bathing 
it with tears, then dragging 
himself away backwards, 
still in the attitude of devo- 
tion, until the threshold is 
again crossed. 

It was a sad sight to 
see this locality, hallowed 
by the death and presence 
of our Saviour, under guard 
of the Mohammedan sol- 
diers and police to prevent 
pilgrims of rival beliefs 
from fighting for the first 
opportunity to put their 
lips to the cold rocks and 
stones, and even with these precautions to witness the exchange of blows and angry epithets. 
Of course as we looked upon the reputed relics of the presence of Jesus upon this spot, 
being shown the stone of unction, Golgotha, and many other objects which these poor pil- 
grims worship instead of the true and living God, we felt no inclination either to accept or 
reject' them in a literal sense, satisfied as we were to breathe the air of Jerusalem and Judea, 
made sacred by His presence, to gaze 'upon the hills over which His footsteps had fallen, 
and to feel the same sunshine upon our faces which bathed Him in its glory from the in- 
ception at Bethlehem to the transfiguration on the mount. 

Thence we proceeded to the inhabited part of the old city, to the Jews' "wailing place," 
where every Friday these poor creatures assemble to bewail because of the long catalogue 
of woes that have fallen upon Jerusalem, chanting the prophetic words of their own Psalmist: 
"O God, the heathen are come into thine inheritance; thy holy temple they have defiled." 

Having engaged a dragoman, and completed our arrangements on Saturday for a trip to 
the River Jordan on Monday, we tried our horses in a short excursion through Damascus 
Gate, around the city, across the valley of Jehoshaphat, and up the Mount of Olives, where 
we drank in the grand view over Judea. Some twenty-five miles away to the east we beheld 

the mountains of Moab and the 
Dead Sea, while we could trace 
the winding course of the Jordan 
by the deeper green of the ver- 
dure along its banks. Below us 
stood the sacred city, encircled 
with its belt of walls and its high 
domes, minarets, and towers, 
imposing even in their decay. 
To the north lay the wilderness 
of Judea, and to the south we 
saw the hills which surround 
Bethlehem. Here, too, we 
looked down upon the pathways 
that lead from Jerusalem to the 
solitudes of Bethany, to Jericho, 
lomons pools. to Gethsemane — paths that have 




BETHLEHEM. 



been trodden by Him "who lived as never man lived, and spake as never man spake." Re- 
turning to Jerusalem, we attended the English church on the Sabbath, where Rev. Mr. Wal- 
ton gave an excellent discourse from the text, " I am the light of the world." 

Leaving Jerusalem at an early hour through the Joppa gate, we rode past the tomb of 
Rachel, to the pools of Solomon, partly excavated from the rock and partly constructed of 
masonry. There are three of these reservoirs, placed one above the other on the slope, but 
not in a direct line. They are so arranged that the bottom of the second is higher than the 
surface of the lowest, and that of the third higher than the surface of the second. Flights 
of steps lead down to the water. Taken altogether they are about thirteen hundred feet long 
and two hundred and fifty feet wide, and it is said the supply of water is from a concealed 
fountain. The gardens of Solomon are supposed to be near here, which he so often fre- 
quented, and where he wrote the beautiful and soul-inspiring "Proverbs." 




BETHLEHEM. 



Passing over the plains where David fed his sheep, where Ruth gleaned, where the shep- 
herds were watching their flocks when they saw the "Star in the East," onward we went to 
Bethlehem, which lies about ten miles nearly south of Jerusalem. It ranks among the holiest 
places of earth, and, excepting Jerusalem, contains more attraction to the Christian traveler 
than any spot on the globe. Here we visited the Church of the Nativity, alleged to be built 
over the spot where the Savior was born. In the interior the visitor is led to a place called 
the "Grotto of the Nativity," a semi-circular space covered with marble, adorned in the 
center by a silver star, over which sixteen lamps are kept burning night and day. Around 
the star is the Latin inscription: "'Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary." We 
descended into the cave by a dark flight of stone steps to the reputed manger. Finding an 
old harmonium in a niche of the wall as we approached, I opened it and sang, "I will sing 
for Jesus." Remembering that it was assuredly somewhere near this spot Christ was born. 
Who could fail to utter praises, both in song and in prayer, in such a place, exalted above 
all the earth as the birth-place of our Savior King? 



JERICHO. 




MARSALiA. 



In the afternoon we visited one of the 

wildest, most remote and silent spots in all 

Palestine. Here the grim old convent of 

Marsaba is located in a lonely gorge. The 

assistants of our dragoman, guard, guide, 

and commissary had preceded us, and as 

we came in sight of its walls we saw our 

tents all pitched in the valley below, with 

the American flag furled in front, and on 

our arrival found our dinner awaiting us. 

After a night of sweet, refreshing sleep, un- 
disturbed by hardly a sound from nature or 

beast or bird, we were in our saddles at 

sunrise, and soon emerged from a wild 

mass of rock and ravine into the cheerless 

desert or plain, occasionally catching sight 

of a solitary Bedouin, with striped blanket 

dependent from the shoulder and a mur- 
derous looking gun in his hand. 

Coming to the Dead Sea about noon 

we dismounted, and a few of our party 

tried a bath, coming out of the heavy wa- 
ters refreshed, salted, undryable, and with 

tongues agonized with bitterness. They 

tested the fact that the human body will 

not sink in its waters owing to its specific 

gravity, composed as it is of twenty-six parts 

salt, while ordinary sea-water is but four. 

They were also fully satisfied that only the 

lowest species of animal life can exist therein, and that the Dead Sea is both a physical and 

historical wonder. 

Taking our departure from this famous locality, we passed over great alkaline beds or 

deposits, until we came to the Jordan, with its muddy stream, swift current, and willowy 

banks, stopping at the point where the \vaters were so miraculously parted for the safe pass- 
age of God's 
people, and 
where the dove 
descended up- 
on the head of 
Jesus as He was 
baptized. Af- 
ter washing our 
faces in this his- 
toric stream, 
bottling some 
of its water for 
keepsakes, and 
lunching upon 
its banks, we 
passed on to- 
ward Jericho, 
and found this 
once renowned 
ancient Israel- 
itish city, a col- 
lection of mis- 
erable huts, 
roofed with the 
stalks of plants 
and thorn-bush- 
es ; and close 




-V -r 




DEAD SEA. 



CAIRO. 



by a mound of ruins, among which a tower rises, reputed to be a portion of the house in 
which Zaccheus lived. The inhabitants are a poor, dirty, profligate-looking class of people. 
In the evening our pleasant little party assembled in one tent, and together read of the early 
history of this place, ranking as it does among the most profound in the Bible ; for it is the 
wonders which God wrought which awes one here ! After thanking God for the privilege of 
seeing this land and for the Bible, which gives us its history, we sought our couches for 
needed rest. After an early breakfast we left our tents and repaired to a fountain near the 
town, said to be the "pool of Elisha," and drank of its pure, sweet waters, near the source 
of which I cut me a staff of thorn. Again mounting our horses, we rode along, twice cross- 
ing the "brook Cherith," where Elisha was fed by the ravens. The gorge of the brook 
Cherith is very magnificent. 

On Monday morning, March 20th, we turned our faces seaward and our backs upon 
these sacred places, making our exit through the Joppa gate ; and when about three miles 
away from the old city we turned our eyes once more toward " Olivet," bidding a long "good 








"'.''■>. 111 :' : ^Blk' 



■cscs? 



WILDERNESS OF JUDEA. 



bye" to the locality so dear to us because once the home of Him who did so much for 
mankind. As we stood and cast one lingering look at the old city and its walls, surrounded 
by valleys and hills, with their many sacred associations, and reflected that we were leaving 
this sacred place, the history of the ages past, when kings and prophets and apostles and 
the Son of God walked the streets of this wonderful city, came crowding into my mind, and 
I stood absorbed in deepest meditation. We arrived at Ramleh just in the evening, and 
found the convent full of tourists. 

Resuming our journey at day-break, we reached Joppa in time to take passage for Egypt. 
A pleasant sail and we were at Alexandria on the 22c! of March; and after going through 
the ordeal of the customs, and being besieged by boatmen, we reached the Hotel Europe, 
situated on a large and pleasant square, and found the city, contrary to our expectations, to 
be very fine and spacious. 

The next morning we took the cars for Cairo, arriving in the afternoon, and taking up 
our quarters at the Hotel d'Orento. The route thither was through a beautiful green valley 
along the banks of the Nile ; but the mud-huts of the natives resembled those of Syria, and 
the children who surrounded us at the stations were filthily clad, sore-eyed, and covered with 
flies, of which they did not make the least effort to rid themselves. 



rYA'.l.V/DS AND XI I.E. 



>'3 




STREET SCENE. CAIRO. 



Visiting the bazars and walking the streets, we found the Egyptians to be a very common- 
looking, in fact homely, people, as far as the males are concerned. The faces of the women 
being concealed, excepting their eyes, we were not able to decide upon their beauty. Nearly 
every male, great and small, rich or poor, is clad in Turkish trousers and vest, and wears 
upon his head the red fez or felt cap, to which depends a black tassel; and if he is not 
afflicted with ophthalmia, or sore eyes, the fact is an exception to the general rule. In the 
streets we observed that the mothers carried their infants astride the left shoulder. Donkeys 
are for hire on every corner, and have been called the "omnibus of Egypt." The boy at- 
tendant runs beside the animal, and assists you to embark or disembark with great convenience. 

We visited among points of interest the mosque of alabaster marble, in which repose the 
remains of Mahomet Ali. We were driven seven miles thither, through a lovely green val- 
ley, over a fine road planted on either side with acacia-trees, bordering great stretches of 
magnificent fields of white and red clover in full bloom. On the way we met great numbers 
of camels and donkeys loaded with bales of this sweet red clover, the blossoms hanging from 



ii 4 



PYRAMIDS AND THE NILE. 




THE PYRAMIDS AND THE NILE. 



both sides of their panniers, making an exceedingly pretty sight. Little bunches of clover 
are always to be seen in the front of vehicles, the drivers feeding their horses from it with 

their hands when making a 
halt or while waiting for 
their passengers. 

The approach to the 
pyramids is truly calculated 
to strike the beholder with 
awe, rising as they do ter- 
race above terrace in massive 
limestone block against the 
eastern heavens. With two 
dirty Arabs to pull or lift on 
your arms, and one to push 
or hoist from behind, after 
several rests we reached the 
summit, and were more 
than compensated for our 
trouble by the fine view we 
obtained from the lofty em- 
inence. Standing here as 
they have for thousands of 
years, probably from these 
same massive monuments 
Abraham and Moses and 
Joseph have looked out 
over the fertile valley of 
the ancient Nile, but pos- 
sibly unlike us with the 
knowledge of how these 
great rocks were piled on 
high, and what great ma- 
chinery or power had been 
impressed by the Egyptian 
architect and builder to 
rear them as a wonder for 




WHIRLING DERVISHES. 



AT.EXAXDRIA. 



'»5 



ages to come, perhaps not to crumble or fall until that time when the earth shall be con- 
sumed with fervent heat, and the heavens rolled together like a scroll. Descending, we stood 
before the great Sphinx with its stony, far-off gaze, which seems to pierce the veil of the In- 
finite, and fills the soul with mingled awe and wonder. To us this wonderful creation of 
unknown conception 
and workmanship is a 
symbol of the grave, 
the unknown country 
of the dead from which 
"no traveler returns." 

The day following 
we went over to old 
Cairo, the very nest of 
paganism, where we 
saw the howling and 
whirling dervishes in 
their disgusting devo- 
tions. 

The "howlers," 
sitting in a circle, 
would simultaneously 
bow their faces to the 
floor, each uttering a 
fearful groan, then ris- 
ing to their feet, they 
would sway 'their bod- 
ies backward and for- 
ward, their long hair 
sweeping over their 
faces at each move- 
ment, at the same time 
uttering a most doleful 
guttural sound which 
gradually increased in 
violence to a prolonged 
howl. The "whirl- 
were habited in 



ers 

mud-colored, high 
peaked felt hats, with 
gored skirts, having 
weights in the hem for 
ballast, and in their 
dance accompanied by 
a dull sound, would 
whirl round and round, 
with their hands and 
heads in one position, 
while, by the celerity 
of the movement, their 
skirts would expand 
and remain in the shape 
of a bell. The sum to- 
tal of the "religion" of these enthusiasts is to endeavor to propitiate divine favor by their 
antics, and to make their "piety" so wonderfully prominent as to lead the ignorant to pay 
them bountifully for their pretended intercessions with Deity. Superstition has its quack pud- 
dings as well as Bartholomew's fair, and this is one of them. 

On Monday morning we returned to Alexandria, where I was booked for three services 
in connection with the noble missionary, Rev. Dr. Yule. Judge Barring, an English judge, 
took much interest in these services, which were held in the large Scotch Presbyterian Church, 
which had recently been built, and where the exercises were received with even more than 
Usual interest. 




EGYPTIAN MAN, WOMAN, AND CHILD. 



n6 



THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE. 



In the older portions of the city the streets are very dingy and narrow, but in the newer 
part the houses are very good, the streets nicely paved, while there are large avenues studded 
with fine commercial structures, which under gas-light give one a sort of reminiscence of 
Paris. A. visit to Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle, the Khedive's palace, and other points 
of interest, terminated our stay in this old city, which by the hand of man and the process 
of irrigation has been built upon the desert sands. 



Chapter XV. — The Continent of Europe. 



yfla 



Wk 



£N the afternoon of April 7th we found ourselves again on board the steamer India 

bound for Italy. We remained on deck for a long time as the Egyptian shores 

jjjpiip receded, and until only a long white line of sandy shore was visible, and after rather 

Ip^ a stormy voyage anchored off Messina, on the Island of Sicily, at midnight, having 

before sunset caught a glimpse of Mount Etna and the island mountain ranges. 

In the morning the air was fragrant with the perfume of orange-blossoms, helio- 
trope, and other flowers. After purchasing a basket of strawberries, my wife and 
1 myself, with Miss Le Fevre and a few others, disembarked to visit some places of 
interest, among which was a beautiful cathedral. 




CATHEDRAL OF PALERMO. 



Leaving at noon, we sailed up through the straits of Messina, with Sicily on the one 
side and Italy on the other, passing Mount Stromboli, whose rocky cone rises sheer out of 
the sea, and now being in a state of eruption, was belching forth great clouds of fire and 
smoke. 

The next morning from the quarter-deck we caught our first view of the charming Bay 
of Naples and its surroundings. To the left was the famed Mount Vesuvius, so different 
from the ideal treasured up in my mind from school-day hours to the very moment my vision 
rested upon it. On the right nestled the Island of Capri, surrounded by others of equal size 



POMPEII. 



"7 



and beauty, bathed in the beams of the rising sun, while seaward the resplendent waters of 
the bay shone like burnished silver. Turning thence our. eyes were filled with delight as we 
looked on the palaces and villas of this exquisite city, resting on its half-amphitheater stone- 
front, with its hill slopes in the back ground, rendered so famous to the world by the pen 
of the historian and tourist, as well as by minstrel and poet in song and verse. My expe- 
rience in getting my baggage through the customs was quite humorous. My organ seemed 




CITY AND HARBOR 1 1 h NAPLES. 



to be the perplexing mystery to the officials, who were only convinced of its non-warlike and 
inoffensive character by my opening it and playing a tune; after which, laughing at the ridic- 
ulousness of the affair, they permitted us to seek our quarters at the Hotel Washington. 

After a visit to the museum, where were gathered many Egyptian curiosities, relics from 
Pompeii, paintings by ancient and modern masters, statuary, and bronzes, and after a call at 
the aquarium, which proved to be very interesting, and where we witnessed the feeding of 
a huge devil-fish, we took carriage the morning following in company with several friends, 
and were driven to the excavations at Pompeii. It had always seemed to me that in order 
to visit the ruins of this buried city, it would be necessary to descend below the surface of 
the earth with torches in hand, as into a cave, and I was surprised to find a large portion 
of it thoroughly exhumed, and surrounded by an inclosure, to gain admission to which we 



n8 



ROME. 




POMPEII — STREET SCF1NE 



were charged one franc each, 
which sum also furnished us 
with a guide. About one-half 
of the city still remains in sep- 
ulcher, while the exhumed por- 
tion consists of long rows of 
hundreds of solidly built but 
roofless houses, bordering a 
tangled maze of narrow streets, 
in the intricate windings and 
crossings of which without a 
monitor it would be an easy 
matter to become lost. 

Here we looked in upon 
temples, halls, baths, bake- 
shops, theaters, and amphi- 
theaters, as also at some mo- 
saics, which were just as bright 
as when that fearful night of 
destruction swept down upon 
and drowned this city in a 
lake of liquid mud and ashes 
full eighteen hundred years ago. One is continually wondering amid these ruins how old 
the city could have been before it met with its terrible fate. The curiosity is heightened at 
the sight of doorsteps, full two feet in thickness, almost worn through in the center by the 
feet of its luckless inhabitants, as also by the deep ruts or lines worn in the solid stone pave- 
ments by vehicles. Gathering some flowers and maiden's-hair fern, which were growing on 
the ruins, we partook of our luncheon near the entrance, and then drove to Herculaneum, 
a part of which can only be viewed by descending beneath the surface with torches in hand; 
for, though as suddenly entombed as Pompeii, it was swallowed up in a molten sea of scoria. 

A few mornings afterwards our party drove four miles to the city's boundary, riding in 
carriages up and beyond the cultivated side of Vesuvius to and over the black, gnarled old 
lava-flow — an inky ocean tumbled into a thousand fantastic shapes. Reaching the Hermitage, 
some eighteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, we there left our conveyance. From 
this point the journey to the summit is conducted on foot, and any number of guides with 
climbing-stock in hand are ready to assist you. Myself and wife, not desiring to go higher, 
walked leisurely on until we reached the base of the principal cone, and here had a fine 
opportunity of studying the panoramic natural picture presented to our view. At our feet 
upon one side lay the clear blue sea, with its charming island clusters; on the other, or land 
side, a carpet of living green verdure stretched far away into the distance, while at our front 
the old city of Naples nestled 
quietly and peacefully at the 
foot of the headlands of its 
beautiful bay. Others of our 
party, however, including my 
son James, reached the sides 
of the crater, and looked 
down into the seething, sul- 
phurous cauldron; but their 
view outward from these vol- 
canic heights was much cur- 
tailed by mingled cloud and 
smoke, which enveloped the 
summit as with a thick man- 
tle. According to previous 
arrangement we left Naples 
on the following Friday for 
Rome, the Eternal City, 
where we were kindly met at 
the depot by our old friend, 
Rev. Dr. L. M. Vernon, and 




POMPEII — RUINS OF A TEMPLE. 



THE CITY OF THE SEVEN HILLS. 



119 



took up our quarters at the Hotel d' Europe. By previous appointment, I gave two services 
in our Methodist Episcopal Church, Dr. Vernon's Italian mission exclusively, as also two in 
the American Union Church. On these occasions I sang my songs in my native tongue, 
which were faithfully translated to the audience by the Rev. Dr. Leuna; and thus they re- 
ceived the gospel of song through the instrumentality of a converted Italian priest of much 
more than ordinary ability. 

On Sunday we attended the American chapel, and listened to a good sermon by Rev. 
Mr. Langley from the words, "And they were all with one accord in one place." The re- 
mainder of the day we spent with Dr. Vernon and his wife, talking of his mission work, in 




BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF ROME. 



which we felt a lively interest. He had just completed a neat little Methodist Episcopal 
church, which was situated in a pleasant locality in the very center of the city. In the serv- 
ices at. this place his amiable wife led the singing in Italian, having thoroughly mastered the 
language in their four years' residence at Rome. 

In our rambles about the city we visited St. Paul's Church, a modern' built edifice, most 
elegantly constructed; its delicately stained windows producing a rich and softening effect 
upon its interior, where we were shown some fine malachite altars and twelve pillars, which 
are said to have been brought from Solomon's temple. Thence we repaired to the Pantheon, 
entering it on a level from the ground, though recent excavations have brought to light the 
fact that its portico, the bronze on whose pillars has been taken to cover the high altar at St. 
Peter's, was once reached by a colossal flight of broad steps. Here among many other objects 



ROME. 



of interest we looked upon the tomb of Raphael, with his last "sketch"' inscribed above it 
upon a tablet. After a short visit to the old Roman Forum, we repaired to the ruins of the 
palace of the Caesars, and wandered wonderingly among its old vine-covered walls and decay- 
ing, crumbling arches and apartments. A short distance further on we came upon the ruins 
of the mighty Coliseum, so symbolic of the power and grandeur of the ancient Roman Em- 
pire, and picking our way downward into its magnificent amphiteater, could hear nothing to 
break the awful silence except the twittering of a few birds that circled above our heads; and 
this all that remained of the vast temple where once the proud shouts of thousands on thou- 
sands, assembled to witness the most terrible scenes of barbarity, which in those days rang out 

and were echoed and reech- 
oed by its massive walls. 

On Monday, with Dr. 
Vernon as our chaperon, we 
visited St. Peter's, the largest 
church in the world, looking 
with especial curiosity upon 
its magnificent altars and its 
rich pictures in mosaic, the 
pieces in some of these be- 
ing so diminutive as to be 
hardly discernible with the 
naked eye. Here we saw 
the reputed tomb and the 
chair of St. Peter, whose 
disciple life has such pecu- 
liar interest to the Christian 
believer as delineated in the 
sacred page. From thence 
we proceeded to the Vati- 
can hall of statuary, where 
we were greatly interested 
in the representation in mar- 
ble of the "Dying Gladia- 
tor," with Raphael's paint- 
ings of the " Madonna," 
the "Transfiguration," and 
Jerome's "Last Commun- 
ion." 

From Rome we de- 
parted for Florence, the city 
of art, where we put up at 
Hotel de Paix, situated on 
the banks of the Arno, the 
falling waters from a great 
dam just opposite reminding 
me of one other night in 
which I tried in vain to 
sleep in the vicinity of the great cataract of the Niagara. I gave three services here, two 
of which were in connection with the church of Rev. Dr. Kittredge, and one with the Scotch 
Presbyterian Church, all being most cordially received. 

Our route to Florence was through a most highly cultivated country, its broad and fertile 
fields being as choicely kept as a flower-garden. Those accustomed only to seeing our farms 
in America can have but a faint idea from the description of any pen of its transcendent 
natural and agricultural beauty. While in Florence we paid a visit to the famous church, Santa 
Maria Novello, the pride of the great artist, architect, and builder, Michael Angelo, and which 
he called "his bride." From here we went to the National Museum, where among the thou- 
sands of rich and rare curiosities, we noticed a great collection of ancient weapons and armor, 
furniture manufactured in the year 1600, majolicas from the famed manufactories of Urbino and 
Grabbio, as also "The Mask of a Satyr," the first work of Michael Angelo, when but fifteen 
years of age. During our stay in Florence we also visited the celebrated Uffizi galleries, 




ST. PAULS METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHl'RCH, ROME. 



Ro.irr.. 



containing without doubt the richest and most celebrated collection of paintings and stannary 
in either hemisphere, among which are the "Venus de Medici" and other works of Raphael, 
besides thirty-seven original drawings by this great master, and twenty-one by Michael Angelo. 
In this attractive gallery we wandered for hours, feasting our eyes on the sublime achieve- 
ments of the pencil, brush, and chisel, and amid a perfect mine of bronzes and engraved 
precious stones and gems, feeling our inability to fix upon the memory even a tithe of the 
rare and beautiful objects which met our vision. 




INTERIOR OF ST. PETER'S AT ROME. 



Our last afternoon in this entrancing city was spent in visiting the church of Santa Croce, 
in which are the tombs of Dante, Galileo, and Michael Angelo ; San Lorenzo, where the 
Medici are entombed in the wonderful sacristy erected by Michael Angelo, and within whose 
walls are the famous statues of Day and Night ; ending by a call on an Italian Methodist 
minister, who wedded a wife in Delaware, Ohio, and in whose company we visited a cem- 
etery adjacent or near his residence, where we looked upon the silent mounds that cover the 
remains of Mrs. E. B. Browning, Hiram Powers, and Theodore Parker. 

Climbing the Apennines by rail, we passed through the gloomy cavern of the Mont Cenis 
tunnel, to find ourselves in the charming city of Turin, the capital of Piedmont, which is 
situated on the left bank of the River Po in full view of Monte Rosa and the Alps. Here 
we spent the Sabbath, and on the following evening I gave a song-service, in connection with 
one of Dr. Vernon's ministers, to a fine audience. 

Taking the train we passed on to Genoa, the tall city of marble, and which I call the 



MILAN. 



"step-stone" city of all Europe, it being one of the chief ports of Italy. The ground on 
which Genoa it built is rolling and uneven; a noble succession of large and ancient-looking 
white marble palaces are situated upon its three principal streets, and beautiful villas and gar- 
dens cover the hills in its background, presenting an inspiring sight from the sea. 

During my stay in Genoa I visited its famous cemetery, about two miles from the city, 
which, with its carved cloisters and sculptured tombs, embraces an area of nearly four acres. 




CITY OF MILAN, ITALY. 



As I passed its gates it seemed to me that I was entering a hall of exquisite statuary rather 
than a silent city of the dead. On every hand finely executed human forms in stone rose 
before me, on pedestal after pedestal, to mark the resting-place of the silent sleepers. In the 
center was a circular plot, or area, in which the poorer people were interred. I also visited 
the celebrated cathedral of San Lorenzo, which both in exterior and interior is one of the 
most gorgeous buildings in the world, its chapel of St. John being literally decked with gold 
and precious stones. 

Arriving in the city of Milan, we visited the Domo Cathedral. This is considered the 



J'AA'/.S. 



second largest structure of its character in Europe, and the greatest work of Michael Angelo. 
It is built entirely of white marble, and is of the richest and most massive architecture. 
From its roof rises into the air a forest of domes or spires to the number of one hundred and 
thirty-five; its facades and eaves are decorated with nineteen hundred and twenty-three, and 
its interior with six hundred and seventy-nine marble statues. The massiveness of this great 
building without is fully equaled by the richness of its ornamentation and decoration within, 
the Virgin's Chapel being most beautifully constructed and adorned, while its stained windows 
are said to surpass all similar workmanship on either continent. 



Vfa^ 



Chapter XVI. — Paris and Switzerland. 

£UR visit to Paris was an occasion of great gratification and delight; an indescribable 
sensation of pleasure pervaded our minds on finding ourselves in the very cradle 
p of courtesy, gentility and politeness ; the palace city of the genius of artifice, taste, 
and fashion; the Mecca of the painter, novelist, and sculptor; the great caravansary 
of the amusement-loving, pleasure-seeking, and fashionable world. Paris as a city is 
the crowning glory of the earth; it is beauty, brilliancy, grandeur, and splendor all 
harmoniously combined, in adoration of which the whole civilized world may be truly 
said to bend the knee. In order to see Paris thoroughly it is necessary to take a 
twelve-mile sail up and down the waters of the River Seine, spanned with its twenty-seven 
bridges of stone, iron, and wire, many of which are of the most elaborate construction and 
architecture, and ornamented with a richness to which no pen can do justice in description. 
From these bridges can be seen nearly the entire river front, with its massive granite quays, 





I'M. ACE l)E l.'KTOILE. 



124 



PARIS. 



a large part of the most interesting portion of the city, long, richly-shaded boulevards and 
extensive gardens, with palaces and world-famed structures beside and in the midst of them, 
presenting a spectacle of metropolitan beauty and attractiveness not to be found in any other 
city in either hemisphere. 

The thousands and thousands upon pleasure bent, to be seen during pleasant afternoons 
on the famous boulevards, the Champs Elysees, and the Gardens of the Tuilleries, riding in 
gay equipages, mounted on beautiful steeds, or on the promenade, was a novel experience 
to our eyes, only to be excelled in splendor and pageantry by Paris at night, blazing in a 
perfect sea of illumination from myriad gas-jets, dependent from curbs to facade, hanging over 
river, garden, and grove like wizard fires, flooding palaces and stately edifices in liquid light, 
and crowning and encircling lofty monuments of granite, marble, and bronze with wreaths 
of translucent flame. 

• Studded- with dazzling lights and lamps as thickly as skies of Bethlehem plain with stars, 
gay, careless, giddy Paris at night on mirth, fashion, and revelry bent, yet gave us a sweet 
and peaceful and restful thought of the great city of our God in which it is written, "There 
shall be no night." 

; Among other places of historic and national interest we visited the Tuilleries and Louvre, 
which afford to the beholder the finest architectural view on earth. The palaces and build- 




WALKS ALONG THE SEINE. 



ings inclose the Place du Carrousal, in whose grounds is located the celebrated Arc de 
Triumphe du Carrousal, a monument erected by the First Napoleon, commemorative of the 
celebrated battle of the First -Empire. 

The renowned Cathedral of Notre Dame next claimed our attention, which, though so ; 
often rudely attacked and injured by armies in change of dynasty, and so often sacked, rifled, 
and disfigured by the mobs of many a revolution, — so often the scene of royal triumph and 
coronation and kingly humiliation and dethronement, — still stands forth grand, inspiring, and 
beautiful, the peer of all the Gothic monuments of France, if not of the world. 

Thence we took our way to the Hotel des Invalides, whose buildings and grounds oc- 
cupy sixteen charming acres, and which is the noble asylum for the disabled and invalid 
veterans of the French army. Here directly beneath a massive church dome the great warrior 
of France and the world, Napoleon I., sleeps the last sleep of earth. At the head of the 
sarcophagus is his life-like statue in marble; near by is his victorious sword; and here hang 
the standards taken by his victorious armies in the ,great battles which made the whole civ- 
ilized world tremble. 

Next in order was our visit to the Bourse, the great money and stock exchange,, which 
structure is pronounced the finest specimen of classical architecture in the city, the main or 
central building being surrounded with a colonnade of sixty-six massive Corinthian pillars, 
standing boldly out like a grim patrol of granite sentinels. 

Thence we proceeded to the famed palace at Versailles, that historic and stupendous pile 



VI.! MB IXC THE ALPS. 



of palaces, so renowned as the home retreat of the French kings and emperors and their royal 
families in the golden epoch of her monarchy until the nation at last emerged from the storm 
of succession of rival kingly factions, and threw off the clutch of ambitious rulers, and en- 
tered upon the full realization of its dreams and hopes of a century- — a republican form of 
government. 

The Palais Royal, the Cemetery, the Morgue, and the National Library— the latter the 
largest in the world — also claimed a large portion of our time and attention, after which we 
passed several delicious and long-to-be-remebered hours on the Champs Elysees, or Elysian 
Fields, the finest promenade in France, and a most enjoyable day in the Bois de Boulogne, 
whose park embraces an area of two thousand five hundred acres. 

We did not turn our faces from Paris, and pass out from the soft and soothing sunshine 
of France without throwing many backward glances upon its magnificence metropolis, richness 
of landscape, and grape-crowned vineyards, — glances in which the artist memory etched, in 
ineffaceable tracery upon the tablets of our mind, remembrances not to be obliterated until the 
golden cord shall be loosened and the 'pitcher lies broken at the fountain of our earthly ex- 
istence. 




PALACE OF THE TL'ILLERIES. 



In a few hours, accompanied by our dear friends the Rev. Dr. L. M. Vernon and the 
Rev. Dr. C. S. Robinson, we pressed our feet upon the soil of the first-born republic of the 
Old World, SAvitzerland, so famed in both ancient and modern times in history, in song, and 
in story. 

Arriving at Chamounix, we secured guides and mules and departed on an Alpine trip, 
taking our way to Martigny. The snowy peaks of the Alps, the famed Mont Blanc, the ice- 
fed Rhone, the glaciers, the ravines, the canons and cantons, the torrents, the hospices, the 
chalets, the precipice walled villages have all been too often described to warrant our entering 
upon any thing of a minute description of our journey, more replete with novel sights and 
experiences than our wildest imagination had pictured as in the range of possibility. 

Ours was an odd-looking procession. My little son Phillie occupying my saddle in co- 
partnership, James clinging to the waist of our good friend Dr. A'ernon (who, being over six 
feet in height, in order to keep his feet from the ground, was forced to keep his legs bent 
akimbo), while Dr. Robinson and my dear wife presented quite as laughable an appearance as 
they guided their ungainly steeds, not without fear of possible accidents and mishaps along the 
narrow roadways, bordering on deep chasms or fenced in with beetling and abrupt cliffs. 

At Martigny we visited the ruins of the Castle of La Bathia on the summit of a precip- 
itous rock, the priory of St. Bernard, and other points of interest; and at our evening meal 



126 



SWITZERLAND. 




switzer's crags and peaks. 



GENEVA, FREIBURG, AM) BERNE. 



partook of the celebrated Martigny honey, which is considered the best in Switzerland. Thence 
we journeyed on to Geneva, one of the oldest fortified cities of Europe, beautifully situated 
on Lake Geneva, through which flows the River Rhone, and which has played a very im- 
portant and stirring part in the history of the mother hemisphere. Here we visited many 
ancient churches and military buildings, universities, etc., and enjoyed the great beauty of 
the fine promenades, from which we could command extensive views of the Jura, the Vouache, 
Mont Sion, the Alps of Savoy, the Grand and Petit Saleve, the Voirons, and the hills of 
Coligny and Boissy, overhanging the lake which is situated between the Alps and the Jura, 
and which is a trifle over eighteen leagues in length and about three leagues and a quarter in 
breadth. 

From Geneva we journeyed on to Freiburg, mostly built on the summit of a toppling 
precipice, the principal depository of the celebrated Gruyeres cheese. The place has an old 
castle and a handsome church, in which is said to be the largest organ in the world, built 
by the famous Moser, of Freiburg, and which was played for our benefit by a master hand. 
Thence we proceeded to the quaint old fortified city of Berne, the Swiss seat of government, 
whose principal streets are watered by a canal of running water, which supplies numerous 
fountains surrounded with figures of sacred or heroic personages, among which is one of 
Moses smiting the rock with his staff; another of a Switzer woman grasping a plump of 
spears; and another of Saturn, represented as an ogre devouring little children; while in their 
vicinity is an old tower called the Goliaththorn, which is surmounted with a figure represent- 
ing little David and his sling. Berne was founded as far back as 1191. It is inclosed with 
ramparts, walls, and tombs, in one of the latter of which a den of large bears is constantly 
maintained. The bear is the emblem of Berne, and the city is said to have derived its name 
from the great frequency of this animal in its environs. The city is also famous for its towers, 
among the most conspicuous being the Cage Tower, or Tour des Prisons, and the Clock Tower, 
which contains a clock of curious mechanism, a procession of armed bears and small figures 
announcing the striking of the hours, after which a steel-clad warrior in full armor strikes the 
hours upon a huge bell with a heavy club tipped with metal. The cathedral is another point 
of interest, whose building was commenced in 1421, and which was completed in 1502. Over 
its gate is a curious piece of sculpture representing the last judgment, and within its walls 
are many vestments and relics of antiquity, and two conspicuous monuments of the founder 
of the city, and one of its earliest chief magistrates. In the public library are thirty thou- 
sand volumes, and one thousand five hundred manuscripts relating to Swiss history. Here 
also is to be seen the stuffed skin of the dog Barry, long a faithful agent of the monks of 
the great St. Bernard, in whose service he saved the lives of no less than fifteen persons, 
while in the arsenal near by is a figure of William Tell, the Swiss Washington, in the act of 
shooting the apple from the head of his son. From the Terrosse, a handsome promenade 
adjoining the cathedral, shaded with beautiful alleys of walnut-trees, and elevated over one 
hundred feet above the River Aar, we obtained a magnificent view of the Bernese Alps and 
its glaciers. 

From Berne we departed for Interlaken (signifying between the lakes), and in the journey 
had a pleasurable sail on a little steamer over Lake Thun. By way of Brienz and its beau- 
tiful lake, thence to Alpnach-Gustad by diligence, and thence by steamer on Lake Lucerne, 
we pass through a wilderness of wild and romantic scenery to the city of Lucerne. With 
a passing glance at the Black Forest and the Jura, we reach Basle, and leave Switzerland by 
one of its principal mountain and lake-locked entrances for Heidelberg. 

The Castle of Heidelberg is a combined fortress and palace, showing the styles of arch- 
itecture of many centuries, and presents to view the most magnificent and imposing ruin in 
the world. It stands on a high hill overlooking the town and the River Neckar ; and, though 
bombarded, sacked, and mutilated by many a hostile army, and riddled by the lightning bolts 
of heaven, it yet is rich in its magnificence of ruin, and that which speaks of its past beauty, 
strength, and grandeur. 

After a short delay at Frankfort, renowned for being the wealthiest city on the globe, 
and also for being the birthplace of the great German banker, Rothschild, we proceeded to 
sail down the Rhine, bristling with impregnable fortifications, to Baden-Baden, so famous for 
its ' baths, gambling, and gayety, and thence passed on to Cologne, and visited its famous 
cathedral and the Church of St. Ursula, with its curious catacombs of nearly three thousand 
skulls and bones of saints and virgins, and other interesting sights. 

Our train whirled over the great drawbridge and through the huge fortifications into a 
long and treeless prairie; through the coal and iron-laden hills of Liege, with its wealth of 
furnaces and manufactories; onward to Aix-la-Chapelle, so famous as the birth and burial-place 



1^8 



LEIPSIC. 



of the great Emperor Charlemagne ; past the renowned watering-place of Spa, and the level 
garden land of Belgium, one hundred and forty miles to Brussels. 

This brilliant, splendid, and sparkling city, with its wide streets, fine pavements, charming 
boulevards, promenades, fountains, and squares, is rightly called the miniature Paris. At 
Brussels is located the French House of Parliament and many public edifices and famous 
palaces of rich historical interest in the record of this portion of the former kingdom and 
empire, but present republic. 

It is situated on the River Seine, some fifty miles from the sea, is beautifully shaded 
with linden-trees, has seventy bridges upon which is lavished the purest architectural adorn- 
ment, and is a veritable bee-hive of industry, its principal business being the manufacture of 
carpets, laces, hosiery, linen, and many other articles in which the French people are so pre- 
eminently skillful. 

From Italy I went forward to Vienna, the capital of Austria, with a population of over 
one million one hundred thousand, and many places of interest to amuse the traveler. During 
my stay at the Hotel Imperial, which was once the palace of the Duke of Wurtemburg, I 

went out to view the Prater, 
or Hyde Park of the city, 
containing four English square 
miles, and beautifully studded 
with lime and chestnut-trees, 
in which was held the Inter- 
national Exhibition of 1873, 
as also the Stadtpark, or Im- 
perial Garden, besides visiting 
the Cathedral of St. Stephens, 
the churches of St. Augustine 
and the Capuchine, with their 
celebrated tombs in which so 
many royal dead are sepul- 
chered. 

My next stop was at the 
quaint old city of Prague, 
where my service had already 
been arranged by that most 
energetic missionary brother, 
Rev. Andrew Moody, who 
kindly met me at the railway 
station, and escorted me to 
my delightful lodgings. Here 
I received a most hearty wel- 
come from a fine audience, 
who manifested much enthusiasm over my service, and I was sorry that my visit had to be 
curtailed because of previous arrangements. 

The population of this ancient city is about two hundred thousand, of whom full two- 
thirds are Jews. It was the seat of learning in the Austrian Empire until the foundation of 
the Universities at Heidelberg, Leipsic, and Cracow. From Prague I proceeded to Dresden, 
the tourist's paradise. 

At Dresden I spent several days, including the Sabbath. This is a most delightful city, 
and is much admired by both English and American tourists, who are consequently to be 
found assembled here in large numbers, being especially delighted with its cheap living, ex- 
cellent music, and rare works of art. Here the eye is delighted with beautiful paintings, 
sculpture, and rare china and other wares, and the ear is entranced by the grand music of the 
brass bands in their open-air concerts. I gave my first service of song on the evening of my 
arrival to a large audience, composed mostly of English and American visitors, who seemed 
much pleased with the songs of homeland; and a song-sermon the Sabbath evening following 
in Rev. Mr. Fogo's church, in which the spirit of the Master was truly manifest, and from 
which the audience seemed to depart reluctantly. 

My next visit was to Leipsic, the publishing city and musical center of the empire. Here, 
also, is the great German Booksellers' Exchange, the city having over three hundred book- 
sellers and publishers, one hundred steam and two hundred hand-presses, constantly engaged 
in printing works in all languages, it being the great metropolis of the German book-trade. 




DRESDEN. 



HAMBURG. 



i- J 



Through the kindness of the London Sunday-school Union, I was next received at the 
citv of Berlin, the capital of the Prussian and German Empire, which has fully one million in- 
habitants, is finely situated on the River Spree, has five hundred streets and fifty-eight squares, 
is twelve miles in circumference, and is one of the largest and handsomest cities of the Old 
"World. Here are to be found some of the very finest hotels on the Continent, with many 
public and private structures of great magnificence, charming zoological and botanical gar- 
dens, and many fine equestrian and other statues in marble and bronze. The old and new 
museums are filled with the finest paintings and bronzes, while the royal library of seven hun- 
dred thousand volumes and fifteen manuscripts contains the Gutenberg Bible, the first book 
printed from movable types. I also visited several other localities of much interest; and 
while passing the Royal Palace caught a glimpse of Emperor William sitting at one of the 
windows. 

From Berlin I journeyed on to the beautiful city of Hamburg, which, in my estimation, 
outside of Paris, is the handsomest city in Europe. 





HAMBURG. 



Hamburg with its environs has a population of 300,000 souls, and is situtaed on the north 
bank of the river Elbe, and about seventy miles from its mouth. A magnificent view of the 
■city and its suburbs was obtained by me from the tower of St. Michael's Church, which rises 
four hundred and fifty-six feet into the air. The botanical and zoological gardens, which are 
very extensive, claimed much of my attention. This city being the chief commercial port of 
the transit trade of Germany, of course it bustled with business; and a glance at its mer- 
chants assembled in their spacious exchange gave me a thought of the busy throngs in my 
own home city of New York. 

The next stage of our journey brought me to Amsterdam in old Holland; and in no sec- 
tion of Europe did I find myself better known, or was I welcomed with such heartiness as by 
the good old Knickerbocker Dutch. Here Pasteur Adama von Scheltama for a number of 
years had been engaged in translating sermons and songs into the Holland Dutch, and had 
completed my entire Song Ministry in that language. 

There are nearly 300,000 inhabitants in this famous old city, which is fully nine miles 

in circumference. Its foundations are reared upon spiles driven into the shifting sands upon 

land snatched from the embrace of the sea, the city proper being ribboned with a perfect 

network of canals which are crossed by more than three hundred bridges. Here I gave 

8 



13° 



DENMARK AND SWEDEN. 



fifty consecutive services in the same building with an average audience of eight hundred 
people. 

From Amsterdam I proceeded in company with Pasteur von Scheltama, to The Hague, 
or capital of Holland, where we were kindly entertained by a good baron, a grand type of 
Dutch nobility and hospitality. The Hague, having nearly 100,000 population, is the resi- 
dence of the Court and the seat of government ; it is fourteen miles from Rotterdam and 
five from the sea. Bronze statues of William, Prince of Orange, and William, King of the 
Netherlands, adorn the grounds of the Parliament House and the Museum, in which latter is- 
a fine collection of paintings by the old Dutch masters, including Rembrandt's "Anatomical 
Lesson" and Vandyck's portrait of "Simon the Painter." 

This city had further interest to me from the fact of its being the birthplace of Huygens, 
the inventor of the pendulum clock, now in use in every portion of the habitable globe. I 
next visited the city of Rotterdam, the second in size and importance in Holland, situated on 
the river Maas, which though twenty miles distant from the sea, greatly resembles at this point 
an arm thereof. The city has a population of one hundred and thirty thousand, and is 
threaded with canals, spanned by many bridges, and bordered with luxuriant shade-trees. It 
is a port of great commercial wealth and importance, the home of opulent and thriving mer- 
chants and ship owners, the largest steamers and sail-vessels landing passengers and the prod- 
ucts of all countries upon its massive quays. 



pnmmtjiiiuMtttiti 



.__:^,_ :v.^m'i^L^ 




GOTTENBURG. 



My excursions from here to Denmark and Sweden were full of pleasant experiences, for 
although I was only able to spend a few days in each country, I was in both long enough to 
form some very happy associations, and store my mind with very pleasant memories. 

On our arrival at Copenhagen, the busy Danish capital, we sought accommodation at the 
Hotel d'Angleterre. Copenhagen is a very interesting old city, rich in fine collections of 
statuary and other objects of interest. 

The hospitality of the Danes we have never seen exceeded except, perhaps, in the San- 
wich Islands. Crossing the borders of Sweden, Melmo was our first stop. Sea-bathing is 
very popular here, and indeed as we looked upon the water it seemed as though the whole- 
population were enjoying its cool refreshment. 

After singing at Helsinborg we traveled through some uninteresting country to Jonkop- 
ing, where we had an audience of two thousand people in a large state church — cathedral- 
like in its loftiness, and though loth to leave, we were compelled to pass on to Norkoping, 
the Manchester of Sweden, where we sang under the presidency of a chairman who did not 



ENGLAND LOXDOX. 



'.5' 



speak English. From Norkoping we proceeded to Stockholm, where we were kindly enter- 
tained by E. F. Larsson, Esq. 

The home life which we experienced during the month of our stay in Sweden impressed 
us as much as those of any country we have ever traveled in. Richly furnished parlors, 
with a profusion of mirrors, but minus a carpet, seemed a decided novety; also the huge 
stoves, which much resembled some monument transported from a neighboring grave-yard; 
the well-laden tables at which we helped ourselves, standing or sitting, as we liked ; these 
strange things and customs, together with the kind hospitality with which we were greeted, 
stamps the remembrance of our sojourn among the Swedes indelibly and pleasantly on our 
memories. 

Gaefle, Upsula (the university city of Sweden), Orebro, and Gottenburg, followed in quick 
succession. From Gottenburg we sailed to the port of Hull for an extended tour through 
the United Kingdom, first visiting the world's metropolis, Old London, where we received 
that hearty welcome which Englishmen so well know how to give. 



Chapter XVII. — England — London. 




^Sa^Sf! 



\ HOEVER the visitor may be, and from whatever part he may hail, he can not but 



be impressed with the vastness and commerce of London. We are accustomed at 
home to look upon our own fine city of New York as a wonderful spot; but when 
we find upon referring to statistics that London is three times as populous, it is 
difficult to credit the fact. London contains more people than the whole of Scot- 
land, more Scotch than Edinburgh, more Irish than Dublin, more Roman Catholics 
than Rome itself, and more Jews than in all Palestine. Its commerce is enormous, 
its wealth beyond calculation, its munificence princely, and its charity unparalleled. 
Every five minutes a child is born within its boundaries, and every eight minutes a soul 
ascends to its last account. A thousand ships are always in its port, and two hundred and 
fifty millions of letters pass through its post-office yearly. Among its inhabitants it numbers 




132 



ENGLA \ T D—L OND OX. 



one hundred and twenty thousand habitual criminals, by whom one-third of the crime of the 
whole country is committed. Forty thousand coster-mongers may be numbered among its 
tradesmen; and these pursue their avocations in streets which, if placed end to end, would 
reach seven thousand miles. 

But if some of these statistics throw a shadow on the picture, there are others which en- 
circle it with light. There is no city in the world which has one-half its charities, while its 
religious institutions are as numerous as.they are diverse. But it is not by size nor by quantity 
that London must be judged, though in these particulars she is far ahead of all the cities of the 
earth. Other cities may in process of time become larger, but two thousand years must pass 
over the head of a new city ere it can become encrusted with the traditions and associations by 
which nearly every stone in London is covered. Think of London as it was before the Roman 
sway, when a temple of Diana stood where now stands the Cathedral of St. Paul's, where 
the lawless hunters, who chased their prey in the surrounding forests, offered sacrifice to the 




WESTMINSTER ABBEY (SIDE VIEW). 

heathen deity; and think of it now, where for every tree that once witnessed the bounding 
deer flying the huntsman's clutches or gamboling in sportive play, there stands a house, the 
scene of honest labor or the home of civilized life, while the temple of Diana is supplanted 
by the largest Christian church in the world;, and then think of the wonderful story that 
connects the two scenes, extending over century after century for more than two thousand 
years. There is scarcely a street in London where some great man has not lived, or some 
great event transpired ; and almost every spot is surrounded with associations of historic in- 
terest which perpetuate the memory of the social and political conflicts from which less favored 
nations may learn the way to liberty and light. 

Westminster Abbey, around which so many sacred memories cluster, occupies the site of 
Apollo's Temple. Here lie England's illustrious dead — crowned heads, philosophers, sages, 
poets, artists, and warriors — whose monuments have been dimmed by the mould of ages. It 
was here Queen Victoria's great jubilee was held to celebrate the fiftieth year of her reign. 
The kings, queens, and rulers of nearly every country were present, and the scene was one 
of the most imposing ever witnessed within the grand old cathedral. 



ENGLAND— LONDON. 



"33 



Of my efforts in London I need not speak in detail, though some of the occasions may 
not be unworthy of record. The largest place in which I ever sang, and the largest audi- 
ence I ever had was at the Crystal Palace, London, when some fifty thousand persons must 
have been present. 

This wonderful building deserves a great deal more than passing mention, and is one 
of the sights which no American should fail to see before leaving England. Situated in the 
midst of a beautiful park, and upon an elevation which renders it conspicuous for many 
miles, it impresses the eye of the beholder as a building of great beauty, the graceful curves 
of its nave and transepts forming an outline, of which bright-blue painted iron-work and 
transparent glass panels form the detail. Some idea of its outside may be gleaned from our 
illustration, which gives a view of the building as seen from the immediate fore-front. The 




CRYSTAL PALACE, LONDON. 



inside is no less beautiful. The view, as seen by a person standing at the end of the nave, 
is most delightful, the whole palace presenting the appearance of some vast conservatory with 
all its attendant beauty of fountains and foliage. The nave, before the fire which consumed 
one end of it, measured something like a thousand feet; and the scene it presents, with its 
tastefully arranged beds of rare and flowering plants, and with its hanging baskets of vari- 
egated creepers, is that of a lovely arcade of vernal beauty. 

Next to that of the Crystal Palace, my largest congregation in London was that of the 
Metropolitan Tabernacle, the world-renowned building, which is the home of the church min- 
istered to by God's honored servant, Rev. C. H. Spurgeon. I believe he has disclaimed the 
reverend, and allows himself to be advertised only as Mr. C. H. Spurgeon. 

The Metropolitan Tabernacle is a handsome building of solid and massive appearance. 
It is one hundred and forty-six feet in length, eighty-one feet in breadth, and sixty-two feet 
in height. There are actual sittings for five thousand five hundred people, but six thousand 
can easily be accommodated without much crowding. It fs almost needless to say that this 
building is crowded every Sunday with an enthusiastic and working people, or to add that 



134 



ENGLAND— L OND ON. 



the enthusiasm and the work are part of a contagion which spreads with the warmth and 
rapidity of fire from the platform to the pew. 

While in London I also had the pleasure of standing in the pulpit of City Road Chapel, 
and from the same place where the immortal John Wesley swayed the multitude by his elo- 
quence I sang of that wonderful Savior he had extolled years before. 




C. H. SPURGEON S TABERNACLE, LONDON. 



My farewell service in the world's metropolis was given at the City Temple with its 
pastor, the Rev. Dr. Joseph Parker, in the chair. It was a meeting long to be remembered, 
and one which I number among the pleasantest experiences of my life. 

Among the principal places of interest we visited while here may be mentioned the 
British Museum, one of the largest libraries in the world. It contains more than one and a 
half million volumes. St. Paul's Cathedral, the most imposing and magnificent specimen of 
architecture in the city, containing numerous marble statues of England's heroes. The clock 
on the Tower goes eight days and strikes a bell which can be heard twenty miles away. The 
Tower of London, on the banks of the Thames, should also be visited. This fortress was 
the residence of the sovereigns of England until the time of Elizabeth. In the Jewel Tower 
here we saw the crown jewels and regalia, valued at twenty million dollars. The houses of 
Parliament, Bank of England, and Underground Railway are all worthy a visit. 

Scarcely stopping to do more than take breath in London, I was off again, and this time 
to the royal borough of Windsor. 

Windsor abounds in interest, both on account of historic associations and natural beauty. 
It is situated on the banks of the Thames, in the county of Berkshire. The great park here 
comprises ten thousand acres, and is well stocked with deer. Besides this there is Windsor 
Forest, which is fifty-six miles in circumference. 

The castle (of which we give a river view) was erected by William the Conqueror in 
the eleventh century, and has been beautified and extended by almost all of the illustrious 
tenants who have, from time to time, inhabited its ancient halls. It covers twelve acres of 
ground; and as it has been the principal residence of the kings of England for nearly eight 
hundred years, it is rich in historic associations as well as architectural beauty. As may be 
imagined, the works of art and other treasures here are of immense value. The state apart- 
ments, which are on exhibition at certain times, are well worthy of inspection. 

St. George's Chapel, which is one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical buildings in the 
world, covers the ashes of many illustrious dead — kings and courtiers sharing alike the quiet 
resting-place beneath its shade. 



ENGLAND— LONDON. 



^35 




WINDSOR CASTLE. 



136 



ENGLAND— L OND ON. 



Across the Thames is the beautiful Eton College. Here are educated the sons of En- 
gland's nobility, and many a name famous in history first won its honors in these college 
halls. Mr. Gladstone, the modern Demosthenes and prime minister of England, commenced 
his studies here. Adjacent to London and easily and quickly reached are numerous places 
of interest to all travelers. A score of one-day trips can be made which bring the tourist 
to his London hotel every evening, while the places of note within the old city are almost 
without number, one of which we must mention here, the burial place of the renowned Bun- 

yan. The place is called 
"Bunhill Fields." 

Bunyan's monument con- 
sists of a white marble figure 
upon a high tomb, and is al- 
most in the centre of the 
cemetery. Dr. Watts, the au- 
thor of so many well known 
hymns, is also buried in this- 
place. Near to the ceme- 
tery is the house of John 
Wesley, the founder of Meth- 
odism. But we must hasten 
on to the manufacturing me- 
tropolis of England, Man- 
chester, the chief consumer 
of American and other cot- 
tons. It has a large num- 
ber of public buildings, in- 
cluding magnificent public 
halls, exchanges, infirmaries, 
libraries, and colleges, as well 
as a cathedral and numerous 
churches and chapels. It is 
surrounded on every side 
with vast factories, and its 
spacious streets are the scenes 
of that continued bustle and 
noise incident to the prose- 
cution of great commercial undertakings. From Manchester I went to Nottingham, the cen- 
ter of the great lace industries of England. On the outskirts of Nottingham is Sherwood 
forest, celebrated for its connection with the bold outlaw, of whom the song says: 




JOHN BUNYAN S TOMB. 



"Bold Robin Hood 
Was a forester good 
As ever drew bow in the merry green-wood." 

Many an old legend is still extant among the local peasantry concerning this wonderful indi- 
vidual. Next came Derby, a town in which the first English silk-mill was erected, and where 
Spa and marble ornaments are largely manufactured. From Derby I passed to Loughbor- 
ough, and from thence to Leicester, one of the oldest and most flourishing towns in England. 

My next engagement was at Birmingham, the center of the hardware manufactures of 
England, as well as having an extensive trade in cheap jewelry. Bristol was my next stop- 
ping-place; and Bristol is associated in my recollection with very pleasant thoughts. It was 
prior to my service here that I paid a visit to that monument to faith and prayer, the or- 
phanage, erected by Mr. Muller, at Ashley Down. This institution is, perhaps, the most 
wonderful in the world. Here are fed, clothed, and educated at the present time no less 
than two thousand and fifty orphans, the whole of the funds for the support of which are 
sought and obtained wholly by faith and prayer. 

The next morning I started early for the South Coast, having undertaken to sing at Ryde 
and Newport, in the Isle of Wight. As I had to wait two hours at Salisbury, when changing 
trains, I took the opportunity to visit its cathedral, which is said to have the most beautiful 
spire in the world, with other very attractive features. 

After this I visited Carlisle, an old historic town on the borders of Scotland, and subse- 



IN ENGLAND. 



i37 



quently the town of Hawley, in Staffordshire, and in the midst of the world's famed potteries 
of England. Torquay is a 'charming spot and has become one of the most popular places in 
England for a winter residence. 

On Monday, August 6th, I was due to sing at Plymouth, which is, in many respects, 
the most important town on England's southern coast; the extent of its anchorage marking 
it out from an early period as the chief station of the British navy. 

Perhaps, however, the most remarkable feature of Plymouth is the breakwater, which is 
certainly the greatest artificial sea-wall ever built. It is upwards of a mile in length, and 
cost nearly eight million dollars. In width, at the top, it is forty-five feet; its depth varies 
from fifty-six to eighty, and the total weight of stone deposited to form this gigantic structure 
exceeds four millions of tons. 
Inside this barrier is anchor- 
age for hundreds of ships, safe 
from the tempests of the wild 
Atlantic. It was from here 
that the "Mayflower" started 
across the bounding ocean with 
its faithful band of voluntary 
exiles, who sought a free soil 
whereon to worship God. 

My next service was at 
Devonport, which is so con- 
tiguous to Plymouth as to 
seem, in company with Stone- 
house, to be but a subdivision 
of one large and populous 
whole. On the day following, 
I crossed the borders of the 
country, and passed into Som- 
ersetshire to visit the town of 
Frome, and to go from thence 
to Stoke. Both of these towns 
are quiet country places, com- 
pared with some of the cities 
I afterward had occasion to 
visit. 

My next engagement was 
at Tunbridge Wells, at one 
time one of the most fashion- 
able resorts of aristocratic 
London, a spot celebrated for 
its mineral wells. From thence 
I went to Brighton, at the 
present time the most fashion- 
able of southern watering- 
places. At Brighton I sang 
at the Royal Pavilion, built by 
George the Fourth as a coun- 
try residence. This is a splen- 
did pile of buildings ; and the 
dome room in which I sang is 
frequently used for high-class 
concerts. Here I was the 
guest of the late Mr. Alder- 
man Ireland, a man to whom 
Brighton is much indebted. 

From Brighton I went on to Hastings and from Hastings to Portsea and Southampton, 
which latter place is celebrated from two widely different circumstances: First, on account 
of its maritime importance; and, second, on account of its having been the birthplace of 
Isaac Watts, the "sweet singer" of England. I had the pleasure of singing in the church 
with which he was connected, and in the vestry of which hangs a fine oil-painting of him. 




ENGLISH LANDSCAPE. 



138 



IN ENGLAND. 



On Monday, August 12, I found myself once more in Devonshire, and this time for the 
purpose of visiting its chief city, Exeter ; and, although I had not much time to spare for sight- 
seeing, I could not but spend an hour in its magnificent cathedral. 

Passing from Exeter, I was soon on my way to another cathedral town, of scarcely less 
interesting character; for, on the evening following my appearance at Exeter, I was to sing 
in the ancient city of Bath. 

It is not always easy to discern a reason for the name given to a place one visits; but 
the reason is not far to seek in Bath. The city is rich in the possession of some remarkable 
medicinal springs, which have been used many centuries for drinking and bathing purposes. 




At the present day Bath is one of the handsomest cities in the country ; and, apparently, 
throughout its history has enjoyed a large share of public patronage as a fashionable watering- 
place. Taking a last look at Bath from the railway station — from which, by the way, an excel- 
lent view of the city may be had — I passed on to the next scene of my labors, Yeovil. This 
is as picturesque a country town as any one could wish to see ; but, like all country towns and 
villages of England, it is different from the outlying townships of America. There is no ap- 
pearance of the wild, uncultivated luxuriance so familiar on the outskirts of American cities. 
All here bears the unmistakable impress of careful husbandry and scientific farming, in which 



IN ENGLAND. 



139 




VIEWS IN CHESTER 



I40 



IN ENGLAND. 



the utmost use seems to be made of even the smalleset plots of ground. From Yeovil I 
proceeded to Swansea, and in so doing entered the principality of Wales. It is a matter of 
curious interest to the traveler to note the diversities of dialect, habit, and fashion, which 
may be seen in the different quarters of this "United Kingdom." I suppose it would be 
impossible to find within so small an area elsewhere races as distinct as those of England, 
Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. The vernacular of the Welsh people — which, however, is only 
by the poorer classes in the country districts — is, though somewhat musical of sound, most 
strange of appearance in manuscript or print, the double f's, y's, and w's, which abound in 
its etymology, making the words appear peculiar in the extreme. The appearance of the old 
market women, too, who speak this language, and who wear short skirts and high-crowned 
hats, with enormous broad brims, like great extinguishers, is very novel to eyes accustomed 
to "the latest fashion." 

My next engagement was at Kidderminster, a manufacturing town of considerable im- 
portance, and where the best English carpets are made. 

After visiting Stafford I went on to Chester. Chester abounds with antiquities, having 
once been a Roman station. Its ancient walls are still standing, and are about two miles 
in circumference, and form a delightful promenade. The older houses are singularly con- 
structed. They have porticoes running along the front, affording a covered walk to pedes- 




LTNCOI.N CATHEDRAL. 



IN ENGLAND. 



141 




SCENES IN THE LIFE OF JOHN BUNYAN. 



142 



IN ENGLAND. 



trians. Beneath these are shops and warehouses on a level with the street. For the next 
three days I moved amidst the vast manufacturing centers of England, giving my songs in all 
these places to large audiences, first going to Oldham, where the largest machine works of 
England are situated ; passing thence to Dewsbury, an interesting spot, being one of the 
earliest places to receive Christianity in England. 

I can not attempt to take my reader over the route of all my tours in England, which 
comprise over five hundred different cities and towns I have visited and conducted my services, 
nor describe all that is really grand and interesting, for my space forbids. I must, therefore, 
content myself with a few brief notes. 

South Shields, New Castle-upon-Tyne, Scarborough, the fashionable watering-place. Hull, 
the busiest of ports and the abiding place of trade and work. Lincoln, the city of the fa- 
mous Cathedral, which, situated on the summit of a hill, may be seen for many miles around. 
I must not neglect to mention my visit to Bedford, as few towns that I have ever visited 
afforded me greater pleasure — the scene of Bunyan's inimitable dream. I could not help 
being intensely interested in all that could be seen in any way connected with the author of 
the "Pilgrim's Progress;" and I can well remember the thrill of pleasure I experienced when 
standing up to commence my evening of song in "Bunyan's Meeting House." I realized 
that it was in connection with this same church that the glorious "dreamer" ministered and 
suffered persecution. Of course there are many spots in and around Bedford connected 
closely with the history of Bunyan's remarkable career. The old prison consecrated by his 
incarceration has given place to a modern and more commodious building, but the spot still 
remains to prove that the greatest achievements may be sometimes accomplished by the humb- 
lest means, and under circumstances of the utmost disadvantage. 

From the city of the unlettered preacher I turned my steps towards the ecclesiastical and 
university city of Cambridge. As it is interesting to stand at the source of mighty rivers, 

and contemplate 
the influences and 
uses of the many 
streams that flow 
toward the sea, so 
is it interesting to 
stand in a city like 
Cambridge, a no- 
ble seat of learn- 
ing, and think of 
the vast influence 
it has exercised 
upon the world, 
century after cen- 
tury, for a thou- 
sand years. While 
here it may be 
convenient to re- 
fer to the sister 
University of Ox- 
ford. 

The Univer- 
sity of Oxford con- 
sists of twenty col- 
leges and five 
halls. I must not 
pass from Oxford 
without referring 
to the celebrated, 
and, indeed, un- 
paralleled, Bod- 
lean library. This 
marvelous library 
contains three 
hundred and fifty- 
oxford college. six thousand vol- 




f.Y ENGLAND. 



'43 



umes, and twenty-five thousand manuscripts, many of them of the greatest rarity and value. 
Publishers are compelled by law to give to this library, as well as to the library of the British 
Museum in London, a copy of every book published in England. In addition to this, mu- 
seums, institutions, observatories, scientific and learned societies abound in the city, and alto- 
gether it is a city of prodigious knowledge. 

One other object of interest I must mention before I pass on, and that is the spot made 
sacred by the blood of the saints — Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley — who were burned here in 
the days of so-called religious intolerance. 

During a subsequent visit to England, I revisited most of the old spots, and renewed 
many friendships of which 1 had cherished such fond recollection, in addition to which I 
visited at least a hundred towns I had never seen before, in connection with each of which 




EARLY HOME OF THE WASHINGTON'S. 



some special interest seemed to exist. Most of these, however, I must pass by with the merest 
mention. Colchester, Beccles, Bury St. Edmund's Kettering, and Duventry headed the list. 
The county (Northampton) contains a house which should be of great interest to every 
American. The engraving represents the former abode of Lawrence Washington, whose son 
John emigrated to America in 1657, and became the great-grandfather of the illustrious 
president. Over the door is the following inscription: "The Lord gave, and the Lord taketh 
away, blessed be the name of the Lord," supposed to be an allusion to the death of a child 
in the year the house was built. It is situated in the village of Little Brighton, Northamp- 
tonshire, and it is a remarkable fact that in the church are the arms of the family exhibiting 
the "stars and stripes," since embodied in the American national flag. 

Northampton, the county town, next claimed my attention, now the place from which 
hails one of the most blasphemous infidels. This town was once the home of the good Dr. 
Doddridge, of whose house I here give an illustration. In Doddridge's time this was one 
house, though now it is divided into several tenements. Few better illustrations could be 
given of the good which may be effected by a good book than the striking results which at- 
tended the publication of Doddridge's "Rise and Progress of Religion in the Soul." It was 
the thoughtful perusal of this work which led to the conversion of the great Wilberforce, who 
afterwards became the eloquent opponent of slavery, who fought out the battles of emancipa- 
tion in the British House of Commons, and liberated every slave then living under British rule. 



144 



IN ENGLAND. 



My visit to Gloucester deserves 
more than a passing mention, a town 
in which commenced an institution 
which has grown to such mighty 
proportions as should be of interest 
to the whole Christian community. 
The story of the origin of the Sun- 
day-schools has been so often told 
that it scarcely needs a repetition 
here; and yet, as it is ever interest- 
ing to trace how "great events from 
little causes spring," it may be worth 
while to give explanation of our il- 
lustration. It appears that Robert 
Raikes, the editor and proprietor of 
the Gloucester Journal, was once vis- 
iting the poorer parts of the town, 
when he was struck with the pro- 
fanity and lawlessness which there 
prevailed among the young. Upon 
inquiry of a woman if such things 
always were, he was told that on 
Sundays things were even worse. 
His heart was touched, and he de- 
termined to open a school for the gathering of children on Sunday. It was in the house of 
a Mr. King, in St. Catherine's Street, at Gloucester, that the first Sunday-school was opened 
in the month of July, 1780, and Mrs. King was engaged as the first teacher, at a salary of 
one shilling per day. Contrast this with the Sunday-schools of the present time, and I think 
we can not do better than quote Dr. J. H. Vincent's remarks on the Sunday-school of to- 
day. He says : 

"It is a product of the church. 

It is a part of the church. 

It is the primitive method of the church. 

It should be controlled and supported by the church. 

It should be responsible to the church. 




DR. DODDRIDGE S HOUSE, SHEEP STREET, NORTH AMI'TON. 




THE ORIGIN OF THE SUNDAY-SCHOOL. 



/.V ENGLAND. 



'45 



It should cooperate with the entire part of the church. 

It should promote the unity of the church. 

It should be the Bible-school for the church." 

Cheltenham, Taunton, Barnstable, and Guildford followed Gloucester in quick succession. 
I also visited York, where stands the old Cathedral, acknowledged by many to be the most 
beautiful in the kingdom. From the quiet which always seems more or less to reign in 
cathedral towns, I passed the next morning to the noise of furnace-burning, hammer-wielding, 
scissor-grinding Sheffield. 

From the time of Chaucer, Sheffield has'been celebrated for its cutlery; and now its hun- 
dreds of factories turn out, week by week, enormous quantities of cutlery of various kinds. 
It is here that many of the guns are cast, which are at all times ready to pour their tons 
of missiles upon the foes of Britain, or to engage in the more peaceful, and happily the more 
frequent, occupation of firing a royal salute. 

Subsequently to this I visited many of the principal towns in Cornwall, including Pen- 
zance, Falmouth, etc., finding among the Cornish miners responsive hearts, and sympathies 
quite open to the acceptance of sacred song. 

But I must not bid farewell to Great Britain without a few words concerning the spot 
which is the first, and usually the last, seen by the American traveler, — I mean Liverpool, 
the great shipping metropolis of Mother England. 




ST. GEORGE S HALL, LIVERPOOL. 



Though irregularly laid out, it has many broad, straight, and handsome thoroughfares. 
Its docks and shipping accommodations are, however, its most remarkable features. Along 
the shores of the Mersey there is' a line of docks and basins over nine miles in length, having 
an aggregate water area of three hundred acres, and a quay space of twenty miles in extent, 
reclaimed from the river. About twenty-five hundred vessels belong to the port, and upwards 
of fifteen thousand enter it annually, besides numerous crafts engaged in the fisheries. Im- 
mense warehouses surround the docks to accommodate the cargoes of this commercial fleet; 
and these, as may be supposed, are fitted with hydraulic lifts and suitable appliances for the 
removal and storage of goods. The town abounds in churches, chapels, hospitals, and other 
charities, and with Manchester ranks next to London in commercial importance. 

St. George's Hall, which is used for large meetings and concerts, is another fine build- 
ing. It is built in the Corinthian style, and has apartments in which the assize courts are 
held. There is a magnificent organ in the concert room. From Liverpool we make a short 
visit to the land o' cakes. 

10 



THE LAND O' CAKES. 



Chapter XVIII.— The Land O' Cakes. 

§?-N passing rapidly from one country to another, few things strike the traveler as more 
curious than the short time it takes him, in these days of express locomotion, to 
pass from one community to another of totally different national characteristics. 
I suppose there is scarcely a land in all the earth with which the feet of Scotch- 
men are unfamiliar. Every one knows how a brave son of Scotland, Dr. Livingstone, 
labored for the civilization of Africa ; and how our American Stanley ministered to him 
in the trackless region where he found him; and this is no more a solitary instance 
of Scotch devotion than an isolated case of American enterprise. Born in a country 
calculated to develop hardihood of character, the natives of Scotland have shown themselves 
capable of great endurance, perseverance, and enterprise in almost every quarter of the earth. 





PRINCE S STREET, EDINBURGH. 



In literature, law, and learning they have filled the foremost ranks ; while in other branches 
of enterprise they have attained a distinction of which their -country may well be proud. 

Our first stop in Scotland is in the beautiful city of Edinburgh. It is difficult to say for 
which Edinburgh is the most famous : its historic associations, its literary annals, or its nat- 
ural beauty. The crumbling walls of Holyrood remind us of the unhappy Mary Queen of 
Scots, and the palmy days of the kings of Scotland ; the castle in the center of the old town, 
of the birth of James the First, under whose dynasty the kingdom of Scotland became united 
with that of England, and to whom the authorized version of the English Bible was dedicated. 

The beautiful memorial, peeping out from its surroundings of shrubs and flowers, reminds 
us of the great Scotch novelist, Sir Walter Scott, whose works produced such a profound sen- 
sation fifty years ago; while the position of the town reminds us of that passage in Sacred 
Scripture which speaks of a city that is set upon a hill, and which can not be hid. 

John Knox lived and died here in a house which still stands; besides whom Dr. Chal- 



EDINBURGH. 



'47 



mers, Dr. Livingstone, Dr. Guthrie, and many others continue to live in the hearts of their 
countrymen. 

Many days might be spent in visiting the spots of interest in and adjacent to this beau- 
tiful city, and many hours be profitably employed in reading the lessons of the lives of Edin- 
burgh's illustrious dead and living. 




ABERDEEN. 



No one should leave Edinburgh without having climbed the Castle Hill to look down 
upon the city beneath; nor the Castle Hill without viewing it from end to end. One would 
fain linger in thought, as well as in reality, among these scenes of beauty and romance. 
Here my services were held in the famous Free Assembly Hall, at which Dr. H. Bonar, the 
poet, presided. But a pilgrim who is circling the globe must not linger anywhere; and when 
he has circled he must not weary his friends with descriptions of places which must be seen 
to be appreciated. 

From Edinburgh I went to the busiest city in Scotland, Glasgow. It has a population 
of some six hundred thousand or seven hundred thousand people, who supply the motive 
power to its many enterprises. The city is divided by the River Clyde, which is spanned 
by several handsome bridges. It was in this town that Watt commenced his improvements 
on the steam engine, and it was on the Clyde that the Comet, the first steamboat, was launched 
in 1 812. Extensive trade is done here in iron shipbuilding, as well as in many other branches 
of commercial enterprise. Thomas Campbell, the poet, was born here, as was also Sir John 
Moore, the great soldier, and Lord Clyde, the great statesman. After visiting Glasgow I 
gave evenings of song at a number of different places in Scotland, enjoying the wild Scotch 
scenery as much as the hospitality of the people. 

Aberdeen is a very fine city, built of granite, and it is said of it, "The more it rains 
the cleaner it is." However this may be, there can be no doubt that the material of which 
the city is built gives it a very massive and cleanly appearance. Aberdeen is an exceedingly 
interesting city, having its university and other public buildings. It is on the sea coast, and 



148 IRELAND. 



has a fine harbor and a granite pier two thousand feet long. It has many manufactories, 
and does a considerable trade with London. 

Journeying sometimes in one direction and sometimes in another, I visited Arbroath, 
Inverness, Dundee, Forfar, Elgin, and Paisley, from whence we have the far-famed Paisley 
shawls. Perth, also, came in for a share of my attention, a city of many attractions; Stir- 
ling, too, with its beautiful castle and picturesque scenery, besides Tain and Wick, in the 
northernmost point of Scotland, where the inhabitants have hardly two hours of night, it 
being in my memory while in this locality that I was able to read without lamp, candle, or 
gas at midnight, and to have risen at two o'clock in the morning, it then being early dawn. 
Dumfries also detained me one evening, in the church-yard of which town lie the remains 
of Robert Burns, the Scotch poet. 

In all of these old Scotch towns and cities my services were gratifyingly received; and 
such was the charming scenery in these grand old Highlands, and the hospitality of its people, 
that I sincerely regretted that my stay was necessarily so short. July is the most delightful 
of all the months for a visit to these noble northern hills, with their bracing and healthful 
breezes, their beautiful heather, dancing cascades, and pure atmosphere, upon which even the 
Scotch mists conspire with the rest to make the change from the lowlands sweet in present 
enjoyment and dear to after memory. 

A short journey across the channel from Glasgow to Londonderry brings the traveler upon 
Irish soil, and into connection with a singular and interesting people. American readers may 
think that they do not need to be introduced to the typical Irish character, as they have met 
with many Irishmen in New York and other parts of the United States; but I am able to 
say that but scant justice will be done to the Irish character if it is judged by that with 
which we are generally familiar at home. 



Chapter XIX. — Ireland. 




I \ O the admirers of the beautiful and picturesque no country in the world possesses 
greater attractions than Ireland. From the Giant's Causeway in the north to the 
unrivalled lakes of Killarney in the south, the "Green Isle" presents a vast par- 
terre, abounding with \ the most sublime scenery, while the sweet melodies of the 
ancient bards blend with and lend an additional charm to almost every locality. Ire- 
land is indeed a country of rare and exquisite beauty, viewed under whatever aspect 
we may. It is surrounded by one hundred and ninety-six islands like satellites, many 
of them of considerable size, and all of them invested with legends that impart to each a 
peculiar and unique interest. It is astonishing to find so many places distinguished by monu- 
ments of the remote past. Cromlech's caves, cairns, pillars, raths, forts, towers, sculptured 
crosses, churches, castles, etc. , all implying the existence of a race of intelligent people. Lon- 
donderry (where we landed from Glasgow) is built upon a ridge on the river Fayle, and is 
memorable in history as having outlived a siege in the time of James II. Macaulay gives 
a brilliant description of this siege in his " History of England," and the tale of heroism and 
hardship is cherished by the townsmen to this day. We Americans sometimes twit our trans- 
atlantic neighbors on their habit of dwelling upon the past, it being rather our custom to glory 
in the future; but after all the nation that has a history may be pardoned for dwelling upon 
the triumphs of the past; for even we are guilty of this on the Fourth of July. 

Coleraine was the next Irish town visited. The place is celebrated for the manufacture 
of Irish whisky, but it is not on this account that I mention it, but simply because it was 
from here that I visited that marvelous natural formation, the Giant's Causeway. 

The Giant's Causeway is situated at the northern extremity of the County of Antrim, a 
short distance from Port Rush and the ruins of Dunluce Castle. It consists of hosts of basilic 
pillars, varying in shape from a pentagon to an octagon, and in length from ten to eighty feet, 
the whole being so closely stacked together that it would be difficult to insert a knife-blade 
between them. In the entire Causeway it is computed there are from thirty to forty thou- 
sand pillars. These are strangely arranged in groups, and have received such fantastic names 
as the Giant's Chair, his Loom, his Theater, his Bagpipes, while scattered around lie countless 
rocks and columns seemingly flung from their original position, resembling an immense fabric 
hurled into desolation by some terrible convulsion of nature. Visitors to the Giant's Cause- 
way on their arrival are sure to be accosted by a host of guides, who proffer their services 



IN IRELA.XD. 



149 




IN IRELAND. 



and at the same time offer for sale small boxes of "specimens/' These are very neatly 
made, and the price asked is generally about half a crown, but as the day advances, and 
sales become less frequent, the price is proportionally reduced. 

After visiting Ballymena and Carrickfergus (the latter town chiefly interesting for the 
romance of its history and an old castle, which is still kept fortified), we proceeded to Bel- 
fast, the capital city of the north. 

Few towns that I have visited present a cleaner and more thrifty appearance than Belfast. 
It possesses the busy appearance of Manchester and Glasgow without the dirt and smoke of 
either. Its buildings are good, and many of its streets regular and wide. 

Situated within two hundred miles of both Glasgow and Manchester, and with ready 
means of communication with both, a large trade has sprung up, of which Irish linen forms 
the most prominent part. 

On one occasion, while in Belfast, an amusing incident occurred about which my friends 
are very fond of joking me. I was invited to visit one of the prisons, and accepting the invita- 
tion found that the warden had made quite elaborate preparations for receiving me. Mottoes 
of welcome were hung about the prison walls'; and as I entered the corridors I was greeted by 
a sort of welcome salute from a number of the inmates to whom I was introduced, and in- 
vited to make a speech. Feeling thoroughly embarrassed, but realizing that I must say some- 
thing, I stammered out: "Gentlemen, I'm glad to see so many of you here." At this point 
my wife whispered: "This is a prison, and not a Sabbath-school." Of course I realized my 
situation, curtailed my eloquence, and escaped from my dilemma by singing a song. 




ATLANTIC STEAMSHIP. 



I also gave my entertainments at Portadown and Lurgan, and then went on to Ireland's 
capital, Dublin. Dublin is a fine city. The Liffey, a considerable river, intersects the town, 
and is crossed by six stone and three iron bridges, and bordered on each side by granite 
quays two and a half miles in length. Sackville street is one of the great thoroughfares and 
fashionable promenades of Ireland's metropolis, and is undoubtedly one of the finest streets 
in Europe. The bridge and city perspective at the lower end, the noble pillar of Lord Nelson 
in the center, and the rich and extensive facade of the general post-office at the middle of 
its west side, combine with its remarkable spaciousness to produce a very pleasing effect. 
The principal buildings are the castle, in which are the general offices, as also armories, ar- 
senals, and police barracks, adjoining which are the law courts and military barracks, and the 
college and the Bank of Ireland, which was formerly the Parliament House. There are also 
medical schools and two cathedrals, namely, those of Christ Church and St. Patrick's, of which 
latter cathedral Dean Swift, the author of "Gulliver's Travels," was dean. Dean Swift is 
brried here, a simple marble slab indicating his last resting-place. 

The Phoenix Park is the Hyde Park of Dublin. It comprises an area of one thousand 
seven hundred and fifty acres, and is well covered with timber. The vice-regal Lodge is in 
the park, where the Lord Lieutenant resides. 

The scenery near Dublin is very beautiful, the Wicklow Mountains affording attractions 
which the tourist can not ignore, and which afforded the inspiration which Moore so beauti- 
fully turned to account in his Irish melodies. From here we hasten to get a glimpse of the 



WELCOME HOME. 151 



far-famed lakes of Killarney. Neither the pen of the historian, nor the eloquence of the 
orator, nor the pencil of the artist, nor the hand of the engraver could render adequate justice 
to the exceeding beauty of these lakes, so difficult is it to convey a notion of their numerous 
and wonderful attractions. There are twenty-two of these lakes; some of them are very small, 
but the three principal are the Upper, Middle, and Sore, which are unrivalled for their bold 
and romantic scenery. But we can not tarry here, as we are impatient to reach Queenstown, 
where we take steamer for our own beloved land, and after a voyage of about eight days we 
find ourselves entering New York harbor. 

Any port is welcome after miles and miles of sea; and to one who is so bad a sailor as 
myself, a sight of one's destination after days of nausea and nights of sleeplessness, is a sen- 
sation that wellnigh compensates for the discomforts of an Atlantic passage. Upon landing we 
•were met by our dear friends and driven away to our quarters at the St. Dennis Hotel, where, 
after a few days' rest, we departed for our own Chautauqua, which place we left three years 
before. Here the great Sunday-school Assembly, headed by that princely worker, Rev. J. H. 
Vincent, D. D., was in session, and as I appeared in front of the platform, he exclaimed: 
"I now have the privilege of introducing and welcoming home again Philip Phillips, who has 
just returned from his singing tour around the world. Since he left this assembly three years 
ago he has sung five hundred and seventy four nights in the countries he has successfully 
passed through. Let us give him a right hearty welcome 'home again,' after which he will 
sing you a song.''' Thousands of hands came together as one at the close of this announce- 
ment; and as the echoes of applause died away they were succeeded by the strains of music 
of his well-known song begining — 

"Come, and hear the grand old story, 

Story of the ages past, 
All earth's annals far surpassing, 

Story that will ever last." 



€IST*OMLLUSTRflTIONSJ 



PAGE 

Aberdeen .... 147 

Adelaide, South Australia 63 

" Botanical gardens 63 

" Vineyard 64 

Auckland, New Zealand 5° 

Australian mining districts 56 

" Natives 5^ 

" River Murray 57 

" Cattle 59 

" Sheep station 61 

" Kangaroo chase 59 

Baltimore, Md., Mount Vernon M. E. Church . . 39 

Boomerang throwing, Australia 69 

Bethlehem 1 10 

Bunyan, John, scenes in his life 141 

" His tomb ' 136 

California, big trees 22 

Calcutta, Old Court-house Street 79 

" Governor-General's Palace 81 

Ceylon, Point de Galle 71 

" Devil dance 76 

" Country scene 72 

" Peeling cinnamon bark 77 

" Climbing palm trees 74 

" Rubber trees 78 

" Cart 75 

" Idols 73 

Chicago in ruins 20 

Cotton picking in the South 28 

Collingrove, near Adelaide 64 

Cingalese 7 2 

Cawnpore Memorial Well 100 

Church of the Holy Sepulchre 108 

Cairo, street scene 113 

Chester, views in 139 

Delhi Palace 94 

" The Jumma Musjid 95 

Dead Sea ill 

Doctor Doddridge's house 144 

Dresden 128 

Dublin 149 

Edinburgh, Princess street 146 

Egyptian man, woman, and child 115 

English landscape 137 

Exeter Cathedral 138 

Feast of the Mohurrum 89 

France, Paris, place de L'etoile 123 

" " Walks along the Seine 124 

" " Palace of the Tuilleries 125 

Garden of the Gods 43 

Geelong, Australia 55 

Ganges, the 80 

li Bathing scene 83 

Gethsemane 107 

Gottenburg 130 

Gun-boats on Mississippi 36 

Hamburg 129 

Hawaiian women 48 

Hindoos, low caste gc 

Honolulu a j 

Independence Hall 40 

India, fakir g6 

" Social life g^ 

" Elephant riding 00 

" Agra, entrance to Taj Mahal 91 

(152) 



PAGE 

India, Taj Mahal, front view 92 

" Palace 96 

" Hindoo woman 97 

" Lucknow Monkey Temple 9g 

" Madras Pandal 103 

Jerusalem 106 

Joppa. • • • • 105 

Jordan Valley 109 

Kingston, Jamaica 29 

' ' Bog Walk 30 

London, England 131 

" Westminster Abbey 132 

" Crystal Palace , 133 

" C. H. Spurgeon's Tabernacle 134 

Lincoln Cathedral 140 

Lincoln's Tomb 21 

Liverpool, St. George's Hall 145 

Lyre bird 65 

Marsaba Convent in 

Maraharajah 87 

Melbourne, Australia, Bourke Street 52 

" Interior of Library 53 

" Wesleyan Church 54 

Milan 122 

Mormon tabernacle, exterior and interior 44 

Mosque of Omar 107 

New York 9 

" Brooklyn Bridge 12 

" Terrace, Central Park 10 

" Elevated Railway 11 

Naples, city and harbor 117 

Niagara Falls 14 

Ocean Grove 41 

Origin of the Sunday School , 144 

Oxford College 142 

Pyramids and Nile 114 

Palermo Cathedral 116 

Pompeii, street scene 118 

" Ruins of a temple 118 

Richmond, Va., Broad St. Church 33 

Rome, bird's-eye view 119 

" St. Paul's M. E. Church 120 

" St. Peter's, interior 121 

San Francisco and Golden Gate 46 

St. Louis, Mo., Bridge over Mississippi 42 

Sydney, Australia 60 

" York St. Church 61 

" Harbor 62 

Storm at Sea 68 

Suez Canal 104 

Switzer's crags and peaks 126 

St. Lawrence river 15 

Snow sheds 45 

Solomon's Pools 109 

Traveling in India as it was SH 

Toronto, Dr. Punshon's Church 16 

Vassar College 13 

Vineyard near Adelaide 64 

Washington, D. C, Capitol 37 

" Hall of Representatives 38 

Washingtons, early home of the 143 

Wilderness of Judea 1 1 2 

Whirling Dervishes 1 14 

Windsor Castle '35 



INDEX. 



A 

Page 

Aberdeen, Scotland, the granite city 147 

Aborigines of Australia, characteristics, low- 
est type of humanity 69 

Adelaide, South Australia, capital city, de- 
scription, industries, botanical gardens, or- 
ange groves, vineyard, etc 64, 65 

Adrian, Mich., a rising city 18 

Agra, India, tombs, agricultural methods, 

etc 91, 92 

Alexandria, Egypt, fine and spacious city, re- 
turn visit 112, 115 

Albany, New York, capital city 13 

Allan, Robert, history, Christian work 58 

Allahabad, India, reception, viewing the city 

from an elephant's back 90 

Altoona, Pa., mountain railroad center 42 

Amsterdam, Holland, some accounts of the 

city 129 

Ann Arbor, Mich., location of State University. 18 

Annapolis, capital of Maryland 37 

Ashley Down 136 

Atlanta, Georgia, enjoyable meeting 31 

Auburn, N. Y 13 

Augusta, Ga 31 

Austin, capital of Texas 23 

Auckland, New Zealand 50, 51 

Australian mining 56 

cattle 59 

sheep-raising 61 

lyrebird 65 

B 

Bartholdi statue, the new wonder of the world.. 1 2 

Ballarat, Australia, oldest gold field 54 



Page 

Ballymena, Ireland 150 

Bangalore, India 103 

Baraboo 18 

Baton Rouge 25 

Bathurst, Australia 62 

Bath, England 138 

Baugh, Rev. George, Ceylon 70 

Baltimore, Md., Monumental City 38 

Bay of Naples and its surroundings 116 

Bedford, England, scene of Bunyan's dream. 142 

Belfast, Ireland, attractive city 150 

Bellary 102 

Benaries, India 88 

Beechworth, Australia 57 

Berlin, an attractive city 129 

Berne, the Swiss seat of government 127 

Bethlehem, church of nativity 110 

Bidwell, Gen., of Chico, Cal., his giant farm... 22 

Billings, Josh, at Waco, Texas 23 

Birmingham, England, hardware and cheap 

jewelry 136 

Bismark, Dak 21 

Big trees of California 22 

Black, Rev. Thos. B 29 

Bleby, Rev. J. W 29 

Bliss, P. P., song evangelist 20 

Bonar, Horatius, Rev 147 

Bombay, India, location, inhabitants, etc 101 

Bog Walk 30 

Boomerang, Australian weapon 69 

Brown; John, martyr 35 

Boston, the Hub 19 

Brenham, Texas 24 

Brooklyn, N. Y., the city of churches ; its won- 
ders 12 

(■53 ) 



154 



INDEX. 



Page 

British Museum 1 34 

Bristol, England , 136 

Brussels, manufactures 128 

Brighton, England , 137 

Buffalo, N. Y 13 

Bunningyong, Australia 58 

Butler, Rev. Dr. Wm 93 

Bunyan, John, author of "Pilgrim's Prog- 
ress" 136, 141, 142 

C 

Cairo, Egypt 112, 113 

Cairo, Ills 35 

Calcutta, city of palaces 79, 80, 81 

California, the Golden Gate 22 

Catskill Mountains 13 

Cambridge 142 

Cawnpore, India 99, 100 

Carlisle 136 

Calistoga 23 

Carrickfergus, Ireland: romantic history 150 

Ceylon, Island of, sights and sounds 70-78 

Charleston, South Carolina 31 

Chattanooga, Tenn 34 

Charlottestown ... \j 

Chautauqua 151 

Charleston, W. Va 35 

Chester, England, curious old houses 139, 140 

Chicago, Ills., largest city of its age on the 

globe 19, 20 

Chico, Cal 22 

Cincinnati, the metropolis of Ohio 35 

Cingalese 72 

City Temple, London 134 

Clark, Dr. Alex., Pittsburg 36 

Clay, Henry 35 

Cleveland, Ohio 35 

Clare, Australia 65 

Cole, Major, Adrian, Mich 18 

Colfax, Hon. Schuyler 19 

Coleraine, Ireland 148 

Collingrove, South Australia 64, 65 

Columbia, capital of S. C 31 

Columbo, capital of Ceylon 75 

Columbus, Ohio 35 

Columbia River 22 



Page 

Copenhagen 130 

Coal-fields, Pa 42 

Council Bluffs, Iowa 43 

Cotton Picking 28 

Crematory at Washington, Pa 36 

Covington, Ky 35 

Crown Jewels 134 

Crystal Palace 132 

D 

Dallas, Texas, enterprising city 23 

Damon, Dr., Honolulu 47 

Dakota wheat lands 21 

Dalles, the 22 

Davis, Jefferson 31 

Davenport, Iowa 43 

Dead Sea m 

De Hass, Dr 106 

Delaware, Ohio 35 

Delhi, historic city of India 94, 95 

Des Moines, Iowa 43 

Devil Dancers 75, 76 

Dewsbury, England 142 

Derby, England 136 

Dickinson, Col 34 

Detroit, Mich 18 

Doddridge, Dr., his house ,. 144 

Dover, Del 38 

Dresden 128 

Dublin, capital of Ireland 149, 150 

Dumfries, the tomb of Burns 148 

E 

Edinburgh 146 

Eggleston, Dr. Edward 20 

Egyptian man, woman, and child 115 

Eldorado, Australia 57 

English landscape 137 

Eton college 136 

Evansville, Ind 19 

Exeter in Devonshire, England 138 

F 

Fargo, Dak 21 

Farwell, John V., Chicago 20 

Fairibault, Minn 19 



INDEX. 



'55 



Page 

Fairfield -9 

Fern-tree Cully 66 

Fisk University 34 

Florence, Italy 120 

Florida, the land of flowers 27 

Flying rish 46 

Fort Wayne 19, 35 

Frankfort 127 

Fredericton 17 

Freiburg, Switzerland 127 

G 

Gaifle 131 

Galveston, Texas 24 

Ganges, sacred river of India 80-83 

Garden of Gethsemane 107 

Garden of the gods (.3, 44 

Gawler, South Australia 65 

Geelong, Australia 55, 56 

Geneva, Switzerland 127 

Genoa, chief port of Italy 121 

Gettysburg battle-field 42 

Geyser Springs, California 23 

Giant's Causeway, Ireland 148 

Gladstone, Mr 136 

Glasgow, Scotland 147 

Gloucester, England 144 

Glen Falls 13 

Grand Rapids, Mich.... 18 

Golden Gate 45, 46 

Gottenburg 1 30, 131 

Grand Haven 18 

Grant, General 13 

Green Bay 18 

Green ville 34 

Greencastle, Ind 19 

H 

Hague, the capital of Holland 130 

Halifax, capital of Nova Scotia 17 

Hall of Representatives, Washington 38 

Hamburg, "handsomest city in Europe" 129 

Hamilton, Queen city of Canada 15 

Hamilton, Australia 50 

Hartford, capital of Connecticut 19 

Hagerstown 37 



Pace 

Harrisburg, Pa . 37 

Hastings 137 

Havelock, Sir Henry 99 

I [awaiian women 48 

Hawley, Staffordshire 137 

H elsin borg 1 30 

Hobart Town, Tasmania 66 

Honolulu, Sandwich Islands 47, 48 

Helena, M. T 21 

Hillsdale, Mich 18 

Hindoos, low caste 85 

Hindoo woman 97 

Hoogly river 82 

Holy Sepulchre 108 

Hood, Robin, the bold outlaw of Sherwood 

forest 136 

House of Parliament 134 

Hot Springs, Ark 34 

Houston, Texas 24 

Hudson river 12 

Hull, England, the busiest of ports 143 

I 

Idols of India 73, 84 

India, social life, fakirs, sight-seeing, palaces, 

etc 80, 97 

Independence Hall, Philadelphia 40 

Indianapolis, Ind 19, 35 

Ireland, characteristics of the people 148 

Irving, Washington 12 

Ishpenning 18 

J 

Jackson, capital of Mississippi ... 27 

Jacksonville, Florida 28 

Jamaica, W. 1 29 

Jacobs, B. F., inventor of uniform S. S. les- 
sons 20 

Jericho ll1 

Jerusalem, arrival, stroll on the streets, emo- 
tions 106 

Jews' wailing place 109 

Jefferson City, Mo 43 

Joppa, first view of Christ Land 105 

Jordan Valley 109 

Jonesville 18 

Jumma Musjid 96 



*5& 



INDEX. 



K 

Page 

Kadina, Australia..,. 65 

Kalamazoo, Mich 18 

Kandy, ancient capital of Ceylon 77, 78 

Kapunda, South Australia 65 

Kangaroos 59 

Kansas City, Mo 43 

Kelynack, Rev. Dr., the Punshon of Australia. 61 

Kean, S. A 20 

Kenosha... 18 

/ Kidderminster 140 

Kingston, Jamaica 29 

Kit Burns, New York "rough" 10 

Knox, John 146 

Knoxville, Ky 34 

Kootal Minor, great pillar at Delhi 95 

Killarney lakes, Ireland 151 

L 

La Crosse 18 

Lafayette ...19, 35 

Lansing, capital of Mich 18 

Launceston 66 

Lawrence, Mass 19 

Leipsic, publishing city 128 

Leister 136 

Lexington, Ky., aristocratic city 35 

Libby prison 32 

Lincoln, Abraham 37 

Lincoln tomb 21 

Lincoln Cathedral, England 140 

Lincoln, Nebraska. 44 

Little Rock, Arkansas 34 

Liverpool, city of docks 145 

Livingston, Dr 146 

Logansport 19 

London, Canada 18 

Londonderry, Ireland, "the maiden city" 148 

London, the world's metropolis 131 

Los Angeles 23 

Lookout Mountain 34 

Loughborough 136 

Louisville, Kentucky 35 

Lucknow, capital of Oude 99 

Lynchburg 34 

Lynch, James 27 



M 

Page 

McCabe, Chaplain , 32 

McCauley, Jerry, mission. 10 

McArthur 59 

Madras, India 79, 103 

Madison, capital of Wisconsin 18 

Magpie, Australian, whistles "Yankee Doo- 
dle" 65 

Maharajah of India 87 

Mammoth Cave, Kentucky 35 

Manchester, England 136 

Marion, Ohio 35 

Marriage ceremony, a pleasant interruption... 38 

Matthewson, James S 15 

Matura, Island of Ceylon 73 

Mandeville 29 

Mauch Chunk, Pennsylvania 42 

Marquette 18 

Mankato 19 

Marysville 22 

Macon 27 

Mayflower, the 137 

Madison, Indiana 19 

Manitou Springs 44. 

Madras, Pandal 103 

Marsaba Convent in 

Martigny 125 

Melbourne, Australia, public library, Wesley- 

an church, etc 51, 54. 

Meade, General 42 

Memphis, Tenn., great commercial city 45 

Meridian 27 

Melmo 130 

Metropolitan Tabernacle 133, 134. 

Milan, Italy 122 

Niles City, Dakota 21 

Michigan City 19 

Milwaukee, Wis., great wheat market 18 

Mizpah 29 

Minneapolis, Minnesota 19 

Minnehaha Falls 19 

Mormon Tabernacle 44 

Mississippi river gunboats 19 

Moody, D. L .....20, 44 

Moorehead, Dakota 21 

Mobile, Alabama 27 

Mohurrum Feast So 



INDEX. 



•57 



Page 

Montgomery, Ala 27 

Montreal, Canada 15 

Musgrave, Sir Anthony and Lady 31 

Mount McGregor 13 

Mohammedan devotions 97 

Mortura 76 

Mosque of Omar 106, 107 

Monkey Temple 98 

N 

Naples city and harbor 1 16, 117 

Nashville, Tenn 34 

Natchez 25 

Natural gas wells 36 

Native Australians 58 

Nagauna 18 

Newburg, N. Y 12 

New Albany, Ind 19 

New Castle-upon-Tync 142 

New Haven 19 

New Orleans 25 

New Port (Isle of Wight) 136 

New York, Broadway, 5th av. park, elevated 

railroad, etc ' 9-12 

Niagara Falls 14 

Niles, Mich 18 

Norfolk, N. C 32 

Norkoopin 130 

Nottingham.. 1 36 

Nuttall, Bishop 30 

Newcastle, Penn. (Sankey's home) 36 

Northampton, England 143 



O 



Oakland 22 

Oberlin, Ohio 35 

Ocean Grove 4.1, 42 

Oldham, England 142 

Oil City, Penn 36 

Omaha, Neb 43 

Opelika, Ala 31 

Origin of Sunday-school 144 

Oskosh 18 

Ottawa, capital of Ontario 17 

Oxford University 142 



Page 

Paisley, Scotland 148 

Parliament House, London 134 

Palermo Cathedral 116 

Paris, France, bridges, boulevards, gardens, 

palaces, etc 123, 125 

Parker, Rev. Joseph 134 

Parsees 101 

Panton.Rev. Mr 29 

Peekskill 12 

Pere 18 

Perth, Scotland 148 

Petrified forest 23 

Petersburg 32 

Peeling cinnamon bark 77 

Phillips, Mrs 35 

Philadelphia, Pa 38 

Picton 17 

Pittsburg, Pa., described 36 

Pitts, Dr 24 

Pike's Peak 44 

Poughkeepsie 13 

Pompeii, the buried city 117, 118 

Portage City 18 

Portland, Oregon 21 

Purus 29 

Poonah 101 

Port Said, Suez canal 104, 105 

Portsea 137 

Point deGalle 74 

Plattsville 19 

Prince of Wales in India 85, 87 

Prague, city of. 128 

Provinence, R. 1 19 

Plymouth, England 137 

Punshon, Dr. Morley 15, J 7 

Puget Sound 22 

Pyramids of Egypt and Nile 114 

O 

Quebec, quaint old city 17 

Ouincy, Ills 43 

Oueenstown, Ireland 151 



Racine 18 

Raikes, Robert M4 



i 5 8 



INDEX. 



Page 

Raleigh, N. C 32 

Ramleh, first night in the Holy Land 105 

Red Wing 19 

Redding 22 

Rip Van Winkel 13 

Richmond, Ind 19, 35 

Richmond, Va - 32 

River Murray 57 

Rome, N. Y 13 

Rome, " the Eternal City " 119, 121 

Rochester, N. Y 13 

Rock Island 43 

Root, George F ..... 20 

Rotterdam, a flourishing Dutch city 130 

Rubber-tree, Ceylon 78 

S 

Sacramento, capital of California 22 

Salem 22 

San Antonio, Texas 23 

Sandhurst, Mining town of Victoria 56 

San Francisco, Cal 23, 45 

Saratoga, N. Y 13 

San Jose, Cal 23 

Santa Clara 23 

Santa Fe 23 

Savannah, capital of Georgia 31 

Sankey, Ira D 36 

Scarborough, England 142 

Selma, Ala 31 

Sedalia, Mo 43 

Salisbury 1 36 

Sheboygan 18 

Sherman, Texas 23 

Sing Sing, the famous prison city 12 

Sherwood Forest 136 

Sight-seeing in India 89, 90 

Shahabad, India 102 

Sheffield, England, the great city of cutlery 

and guns 145 

Sleepy Hollow 13 

Salt Lake City 44 

St. Johns, New Brunswick 17 

St. George's Chapel 134 

St. Joseph, Mo 43 

Snow sheds 45 

St. Lawrence river 15 



Page 

St. Paul, Minn 19, 21 

St. Louis, Mo., commercial importance 42 

St. Paul's Cathedral, London 134 

St. Peter's, Rome 121 

Solomon's Pools 109, no 

South Shields, England 142 

Stillwater, Minn 19 

Smith, R. Pearsall 41 

Southampton 137 

Spurgeon, C. H.: his work 133 

Springfield, Ills., state capital 21 

Staging in California 22 

Storm at sea 68 

Stockholm 131 

Stafford.... 140 

Stuart, George H 41 

Suez canal 104 

Sugar estate, Jamaica 29 

Swansea 140 

Switzerland 125, 126 

Syracuse, N. Y 13 

Sydney, Australia 60, 62 



Taj Mahal, the wonderful tomb 91 

Tallahassee, capital of Florida 

Taylor, Rev. Wm 

Tasmania 65 

Tarrytown, N. Y 

Terre Haute, Ind 

Texas cattle trade 

Thoburn, Rev. D. D., missionary at Calcutta- 
Toronto, Canada: Dr. Punchon's church 

Toledo, Ohio 

Torquay, southern coast of England 

Tower of London 

Troy, N. Y 

Truro 

Trenton, N. J 

Traveling in India 

Tunbridge Wells, England: mineral wells 

Turin 



• 93 
27 
57 

, 66 
12 

35 
24 
80 
15 
35 
137 
134 
13 
17 
4i 
88 

137 
131 



U 

Utica, N.Y 13 

Upsula „...„ iji 



INDEX. 



'59 



Y 

Page 

Vassar College 13 

Vere 29 

Vesuvius, Italy 118 

Yincennes, Ind 19 

Yincent, Dr. J. H 20, 21, 44, 151 

Vienna, capital of Austria 128 

Vicksburg, Miss 25 

W 

Waco, Texas 23 

Watts, Isaac, "sweet singer of England" 137 

Warsaw 19 

Washington, D. C 37 

Washingtons, early home of the 143 

Washington's headquarters on the Hudson.... 12 

Warnambool, Australia 58 

West Point on the Hudson 12 



Page 

Westminster Abbey 132 

Wesley, John 136 

Webb, Hon. J. W 62 

Wesley, Mount 29 

Whirling Dervishes 114, 115 

Windsor, England, the abode of loyalty... 134, 135 

Wightman, J. W., D. D 31 

Wilmington, Del 38 

Wilderness of Judca 112 

Woodstock, Canada 17 

Windsor, Canada 17 

Y 

Yellowstone National Park 21 

Yonkers, N. Y 12 

Yosemite valley 23 

Yeovil, England, country scene 138 

York, England 145 




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AND 

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PUBLISHED BY 

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PfflEMPS PUBLISHING G6. 



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BIBLE HOUSE,NEW YORK. 



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COPYRIGHTED 1887 



BY PHILIP PHILLIPS. 



PREFACE. 



If, when on your pilgrim journey, 
Dark may be the path and tearful, 
Dread the storm that rages near you 
Like a light upon the pathway — 
Like the sun behind a cloud-rift — 
Music comes to soothe and gladden, 
Though your heart be faint and weary, 
Though your steps be weak and faltering. 
Light your journey will it render 
Till your sorrow turn to gladness. 
Open then this unsung volume, 
Prove the beauties of its song-work, 
Then may you in it discover 
Strength for weakness, joy for sorrow; 
Rich the song that heartfelt rises 
Though its melody be simple 
And its harmony unskillful. 
Sing your cares away as darkness 
Flees before the dawn of morning, 
So the clouds of trouble vanish 
When the cheering song arises. 
If this volume you will open 
You will find in it a treasure, 

Delaware, Ohio, April 10, 1887. 



Not of gay and heartless music, 

But of song whose deep devotion 

Thrills the heart of true believers; 

Faith can breathe its sweetest whisper 

Through a melody celestial; 

Prayer can rise on fleetest pinions 

On the wings of heavenly music; 

Peace can find its softest echo 

In the notes of heartfelt singing. 

Worship then the heavenly Master, 

Not with heart alone and silent, 

But with voice attuned and songful. 

Though your song be weak and wavering,. 

If the heart be true and faithful 

It can tune the poorest singing, 

Till when up to heaven it reaches 

It becomes the sweetest music. 

Read and ponder well this lesson, 

Use the talent God has given you, 

And if by the songs you find here 

You are led to sweeter favor 

In the eyes of the Redeemer, 

Then my earnest prayer is answered. 

Philip Phillips, Jr.. 




" some on boards and some on broken pieces of the ship, and so it came to pass they escaped all safe to land." 

Philip Phillips 




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1. A ship was on the mighty deep, With all her sails un - furled, Tho' scarce a 

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v All drank the cup that pleas-ure held, But gave no thought to him, Their heavenly 



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state - ly ves-sel lay, Then spread her can-vas to the breeze, And proud-ly sailed a - way. 
sky is still se-rene ; As "if a storm could nev-er change The beau - ty of the scene. 
fad- ing to his rest, That bank of clouds por-ten-tous rise A - cross the gold-en west! 
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'AND I BEHELD, AND I HEARD AN ANGEL I LYING THKOUGH THE MIDST OF HEAVEN, 



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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips, 



If I were a voice — a consoling voice, 

I'd fly on the wings of the air; 
The homes of sorrow and guilt I'd 

seek, 
And calm and truthful words I'd 
speak 
To save them from despair. 
I would fly, I would fly o'er the 

crowded town, 
And drop like the happy sunlight 

down 
Into the hearts of suffering men, 
And teach them to look up again. 
I would fly, I would fly, &c. 
I would fly o'er the crowded town. 



If I were a voice — a convincing 
voice, 
I'd travel with the wind ; 
And where'er I saw the Nations torn 
By warfare, jealousy, spite or scorn, 

Or hatred of their kind — 
I would fly, I would fly on the 

thunder crash, 
And into their blinded bosoms flash, 
Then, with their evil thoughts sub- 
dued, 
I'd teach them Christian brother- 
hood. 
I would fly, I would fly, &c. 
I would flv on the thunder crash. 



If I were a voice — an immortal voice, 

I would fly the earth around; 
And wherever man to his idols 

bowed, 
I'd publish in notes, both long and 
loud, 
The Gospel's joyful sound. 
I would fly, I would fly on the 

wings of day, 
Proclaiming peace on my world- 
wide way, 
Bidding the saddened earth rejoice. 
If I were a voice — an immortal voice, 
I would fly. I would fly, &c. 
I would fly on the wings of day. 








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"LYING LIPS ARE ABOMINATION TO THE LuKD. 

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8 



POWER OF TRUTH. Continued. 

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last fond look of home. 
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POWER OF TRUTH. Concluded. 




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Note. — During a voyage, some time since, the mate of an English vessel discovered a little boy stowed away in the hold of the 
ship. Upon inquiry, the boy declared that his father placed him there ; but this the mate did not believe, thinking that he proba- 
bly belonged to one of the crew. The mate, therefore, brought the boy on deck, and told him that he had only two minutes to live, 
and that if he did not tell the truth he should be hung up to the yard-arm. The boy still protested that he had spoken the truth, 
and asked leave to spend the two minutes in prayer. Leave granted, the child knelt down in the midst of a crowd of passengers and 
offered up a simple, heartfelt prayer. His supplication soon convinced all of his truthfulness, and the mate's threat was not carried out. 

11 




Mrs. Ellen H. Gates 



"NOT SLOTHFUL IN BUSINESS, FERVENT IN SPIRIT! SERVING THE LORD." 

S. J. Vail and Philip Phillips. 



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Copyrighted by Fluhp Fhillif 18! 
12 



YOUR MISSIO.Y. Concluded. 



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a hand to help them, As they launch their boat a - way. 




2 If you are too weak to journey 
Up the mountain, steep and high, 

You can stand within the valley, 
While the multitudes go by : 

You can chant in happy measures, 
As they slowly pass along, 

Though they may forget the singer, 
They will not forget the song. 

3 If you have not gold and silver 
Ever ready to command, 

If you can not t'wards the needy 
Reach an ever open hand, 

You can visit the afflicted, 

O'er the erring you can weep ; 



You can be a true disciple, 
Sitting at the Savior's feet. 

4 If you cannot in the harvest 
Gather up the richest sheaves, 

Many a grain both ripe and golden 
Will the careless reapers leave ; 

Go and glean among the briars, 
Growing rank against the wall, 

For it may be that their shadow 
Hides the heaviest wheat of all. 

5 If you can not in the conflict 
Prove yourself a soldier true, 



If, where fire and smoke are thickest, 
There's no work for you to co, 

When the battle-field is silent, 
You can go with careful tread; 

You can bear away the wounded, 
You can cover up the dead. 

6 Do not, then, stand idly waiting, 

For some greater work to do; 
Fortune is a lazy goddess, 

She will never come to you. 
Go and toil in any vineyard, 

Do not fear to do or dare, 
If you want a field of labor, 

You can find it anywhere. 



At the Anniversary of the United States Christian Commission, held in the 
Hall of Representatives, Washington, D. C, 1865, the following written request 
was handed to Geo. H. Stuart, Esq. (President of the Commission) and read by 
the Chairman of the Meeting, Hon. Wm. H. Seward : 



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13 



JEHOVAH IS MARCHING ALONG. 



"CAN ye not discern the signs of the times." 



Philip Phillips. 




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2 Men of business, awake to the signs of the times; 

Be true, and to others be just; 
Give your wealth to the Lord, for to him it belongs, 
He lent it to you as a trust. 

Chorus — Then wake, let us stand, &c. 

3 Let the women awake to the signs of the times ; 

God calls you — the cross nobly to bear ; 
You can light up the heart with the pages of life, 
And triumph with God through your prayer. 
Chorus — Then wake, let us stand, &c. 



4 Let the young men awake to the signs of the times; 

God calls you because you are strong ; 
You can work in the vineyard, with ardour and zeal, 
For him who is marching along. 

Chorus — Then wake, let us stand, &c. 

5 Careless sinner, awake to the signs of the times ; 

Give Jesus your heart while you may; 
O be washed in his blood — he will make you his child,. 
And take your transgressions away. 
Chorus — Then wake, let us stand, &c. 



Copyright, 1887, by Philip Phillips. 

14 




V o i <•«■ 



"LET Hi.M RETURN INTO THE LORD 

Slow and distinct. K»rt. 



HE WILL ABUNDANTLY PARDON. 



Philii' PHILLIPS. 



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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song Ministry," 1873. 
15 



THE PARDOX. Continued. 



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He must meet a convict's doom. Soon for him will dawn the morrow, Veil'd in clonds*of'awful gloom, Growing deeper,Growing 

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Drawn the black cap o'er hi* head. "Loose the prisoner!" All is silent. With his head erect and proud 

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( And his n - der, and his n-der Waves his hands and cries a-loud, J ' ' J 



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Mer-cy pleading, mercy pleading, Shines a sun-beam o'er the gloom; Love, eter-nal love enfolds him. 

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OFT IN THE STILLY NIGHT. 



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Mrs. Elle.v H. Gate? 



" THERE KEMAINETH A REST TO THE PEOPLE OK GOD. 



Phii.ii' Phillips. 



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Oh, that home of the soul, in my visions and dreams 

Its bright jasper walls I can see! 
Till I fancy but thinly the vale intervenes 

Between the fair city and me. 

There the great tree of life in its beauty doth grow, 

And the river of life floweth by; 
For no death ever enters that city, you know, 

And nothing that maketh a lie. 



4 That unchangeable home is for you and for me, 

Where Jesus of Nazareth stands; 
The King of all kingdoms for ever is he, 
And he holdeth our crowns in his hands. 

5 Oh, how sweet it will be in that beautiful land, 

So free from all sorrow and pain ! 
With songs on our lips, and with harps in our hands, 
To meet one another again. 



Arranged and copyrighted by Philip Phillips in "Singing Pilgrim," 1865. 
19 




SET THOU HERE IN A GOOD PLACE; AND SAY TO THE POOR, STAND THOU THERE. 



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Well, wife, I 've fou nd the mod-el church, And worship'd there to- 



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meet-ing-house was fi - ner built Than they were years a - go, But then I found, when 

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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in "Song Ministry," 1873. 
20 



THE MODEL CHLRCII. Concluded. 



The sexton did not sit me down. 

Away back by the door ; 
He knew that 1 was old and deaf. 

And saw that I was poor. 
He must have been a Christian man, 

He led me boldly through 
The long isle of that crowded church, 

To find a pleasant pew. 



1 wish you'd heard the singing, wife, 

It had the old-time ring; 
The preacher said, with trumpet voice, 

Let all the people sing : 
"Old Coronation'' was the tune, 

The music upward rolled 
Till I thought I heard the angel choir 

Strike all their harps of gold. 



My deafness seemed to melt away, 
My spirit caught the fire; 

I joined my feeble trembling voice, 
With that melodious choir; 

And sang, as in my youthful days. 
"Let angels prostrate fall; 



5 
I lell you, wife, it did me good 

To sing that hymn once more; 
I felt like some wrecked mariner 

Who gets a glimpse of shore. 
I almost want to lay aside 

This weather-beaten form, 
And anchor in the blessed pert, 

For ever from the storm. 

6 
'Twas not a flowery sermon, wife, 

But simple gospel truth ; 
It tilted humble men like me; 

It suited hopeful youth. 
To win immortal souls to Christ, 

The earnest preacher tried ; 
He talked not of himself, or creed, 

Hut Jesus crucified. 

7 
Dear wife, the toil will soon be o'er, 

The victory soon be won ; 
The shining land is just ahead, 

Our race is nearly run. 
We're nearing Canaan's happy shore. 

Our home is hright and fair; 
Thank God we'll never sin again: 




There'll 



row there. 



AN OLD MAN IN A STYLISH CHURCH. 

(Tune — " Model Church.'') 



Well, wife, I've been to church to-day; 

It was a stylish one; 
And since you can not go from home, 

I'll tell you what was done. 
You would have been surprised to see 

The things I saw to-day ; 
The sisters all were dressed so fine, 

They hardly knelt to pray. 

2 

My clothes were coarse, and so they knew 

At once that I was poor ; 
They led the old man to a seat, 

Uncushioned, by the door. 
A stranger came, a man of wealth, 

In costly robes arrayed ; 
Gold rings he wore, and room for him 

Was near the altar made. 



I could not help but think it wrong 

That he should sit so near: 
For he was young, and I was old, 

And very hard to hear. 
But then I thought, in yonder world, 

So pure and free from sin. 
How riches at the gate would beg, 

While poverty goes in. 

4 
Too far to catch the preacher's voice, 

I prayed for those about; 
That God would make them pure within, 

As they were clean without. 
'Tis true, I'm old and childish now; 

But then I love to see 
A Christian wear the simple garb 

Of meek humility. 



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Oh, why should man look down on man 

How many a noble breast 
May wake sweet music, though it throb 

Beneath a faded vest. 
Our Saviour loved and blessed the poor; 

And when to him we rise, 
The rich and poor will share alike 

His temple in the skies. 
21 



John H. Yates. 



TWENTY YEARS AGO. 



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2 The grass is just as green, dear- Tom, bare-footed boys at play 
Were sporting there, as we did then, with spirits just as gay; 
But the master sleeps upon the hill, which, coated o'er with snow, 
Afforded us a sliding place, just twenty years ago. 

3 The spring that bubbled 'neath the hill, close by the spreading beech, 
Is very low, 'twas once so high that we could almost reach ; 

And kneeling down to get a drink, dear Tom, I started so ! 
To find that I had changed so much, since twenty years ago. 

4 Down by the spring, upon an elm, you know I cut your name, 
Your sweetheart's just beneath it, Tom, and you did mine the same; 
Some heartless wretch has peeled the bark, 'twas dying sure, but slow, 
Just as the one whose name was cut, died twenty years ago. 

5 My lids have long been dry, dear Tom, but tears came to my eyes, 
I thought of those we loved so well, those early broken ties; 

I visited the old church-yard, and took some flowers to strew 
Upon the graves of those we loved some twenty years ago. 

6 Some are in the church-yard laid, some sleep beneath the sea, 
But few are left of our old class, excepting you and me; 

And when our time shall come, dear Tom, and we are called to go, 
I hope they'll lay us where we played, just twenty years ago. 

22 




"the eyes of the lord are in every place, beholding the evil and the good. 



Philip Phillits. 



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2 Art thou oppressed, and poor, nnd heavy-hearted, 

The heavens above thee in thick clouds arrayed, 
And well-nigh crushed, no earthly strength imparted, 
No friendly voice to say " Be not afraid ? " 

God knows it all! 

3 Art thou a mourner, are thy tear-drops flowing 

For one so early lost to earth and thee — 
The depth of grief, no human spirit knowing, 
Which mourns in secret, like the moaning sea? 

God knows it all! 



4 Dost thou look back upon a life of sinning? 

Forward, and tremble for thy future lot; 
There's One who sees the end from the beginning ; 
The penitential tear is unforgot. 

God knows it all ! 

5 Then go to God, put out your heart before him ; 

There is no grief your Father can not feel; 

And let your grateful songs of praise adore him, 

To save, forgive, and every wound to heal. 

God knows it all! 



Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in "Song Ministry," iS:3. 
23 



HE LEADS US ON. 



"HE LEADETH ME IN PATHS OF RIGHTEOUSNESS FOR HIS NAME'S SAKE." 

Words and music by Philip Phillips. 



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Past all our dreamland hopes, and doubts and fears; 
lie guides our steps through all the tangled maze, 
In paths of peace and wisdom's pleasant ways. 
Refrain — But when, etc. 



3 And he, at last, after the weary strife, 
Will lead us home to everlasting life ; 
No parting there, or pain, on that bright shore ; 
We'll meet dear friends, and sing for evermore. 
Refrain — But when, etc. 



Arranged and copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Standard Singer," 1873. 



KILLARNEY. 



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KILLARNEY. Concluded. 




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winding bays, Mountain paths and woodland dells, Mem'ry ev - er fond - ly strays: 





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Innisfallen's ruined shrine 

May suggest a passing sigh ; 
But man's faith can ne'er decline 

Such God's wonders floating by ; 
Castle Lough and Glena bay, 

Mountains Tore and Eagle's nest, 
Still at mucross you must pray, 

Though the monks are now at rest. 
Angels wonder not that man 

There would fain prolong life's span, 
Beauty's home, Killarney, 

Ever fair Killarney. 



No place else can charm the eye 

With such bright and varied tints: 
Every rock that you pass by, 

Verdure broiders or besprints; 
Virgin there the the green grass grows. 

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Bright-hued berries daff the snows, 

Smiling winter's frown away. 
Angels often pausing there, 

Doubt if Eden were more fair, 
Beauty's home. Killarney, 

Ever fair Killarney. 
25 



Music there for echo dwells, 

Makes each sound a harmony; 
Many voiced the chorus swells, 

Till it faints in ecstasy; 
With the charmful tints below, 

Seems the Heaven above to vie; 
All rich colors that we know, 

Tinge the cloud-wreaths in that sky. 
Wings of angels so might shine, 

Glancing back soft light divine, 
Beauty's home, Killarney, 

Ever fair Killarney. 



JOHN ANDERSON, MY JO. 



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2 John Anderson, my Jo, John, ye were my first conceit ; 

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They say ye're turning auld, John, and what tho' it be so? 
Ye're ay the same kind man to me, John Anderson, my Jo. 

3 John Anderson, my Jo, John, when we were first acquaint, 
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4 John Anderson, my To, John, we clamb the hill thegither, 
And mony a canty day, John, we've had wi' ane anither; 
Now we maun totter down, John, but hand in hand we'll go 
And sleep thegither at the foot, John Anderson, my Jo. 

26 




" LET EVERY 6NE OF US PLEASE HIS NEIGHBOUR FOR HIS GOOD TO EDIFICATION' 

j/'Voiee. Con spirito. n Vres. 



Philip Phillips. 



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dark and clouded sky ; And where cru-el thorns are growing, We can scat-ter smiles and flow'rs, If we 




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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song Ministry, No. 2," 1876. 
27 



LET US TRY TO MAKE LIFE PLEASANT. Concluded. 



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2 Let us try to make life pleasant 

While the days go swiftly past ; 
And our genial hearts o'erflowing, 

Make them happy while they last. 
Let our words of Christian kindness 

Like the summer dew-drops fall ; 
Give our hands to works of mercy, 

And our loving hearts to all ! Chorus 



3 Let us try to make life pleasant 

Thro' the weeks and months that glide 
Like an eagle on its pinions, 

Or a vessel o'er the tide. 
Though the harp-strings may be silent, 

We can wake its gentle strain; 
Though its tones may be discordant, 

We can make them sweet again ! Chorus. 



4 Let us try to make life pleasant 

While the years roll on apace; 
Every worker for the Master 

Has a welcome and a place. 
Let us try to make life pleasant, 

And be loving, warm and true; 
Make the world around us better 

For the good that we can do. Chorus. 



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From tl Jubilee Songs," by f>cr. 
28 



THE CHILDREN'S HOME. 

Molto motlcrato. inf 



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chil-dren of high degree; Outside the gates the beggars, Pass'd on in their mis-er - y ; But 

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there was one of the children Who could not join the play, And a lit -tie beggar maid-en 

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MY DAILY WANTS. 




"NOT THAT AS THOUGH ( HAD ALREADY ATTAINED OR WERE ALREADY PERFECT.' 

Voice. Affettnoso. 



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1. I want the adorning di - vine, Thou only, my God, canst bestow; I want in those beau-ti - ful 

2. I want — oh! I want to attain Some likeness, my Savior, to thee, That longed-for resemblance once 





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garments to shine Which distinguish thy peo-ple be - low, I want ev'ry moment to feel That thy 
more to regain — Thy com - li - ness put up - on me! I want to be marked for thine own, Thy seal 



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spirit resides in my heart, That his power is present to cleanse and to heal, And newness of life to impart, 
on my forehead to wear; To receive that ''new name" on the mystic white stone, Which none but thyself can declare. 




3 I want so in thee to abide, 

As to bring forth some fruit to thy praise; 
The branch which thou prunest, tho' feeble and dried 
May languish, but never decays. 
I want thine own hand to unbind 
Each tie to terrestrial things — 
Too tenderly cherished, too closely entwined, 
Where my heart too tenaciously clings 

From " Voice oj Song," published by S. S 
31 



4 I want, as a traveler, to haste 

Straight onward, nor pause on my way; 
Nor forethought, nor anxious contrivance to waste 

On the tent only pitched for a day, 
I want — and this sums up my prayer — 

To glorify thee till I die; 
Then calmly to yield up my soul to thy care, 

And breathe out, in faith, my last sigh! 



( 



Copyright by H. R. Palmer. 



THE ROSE OF SHARON. 

* Words and Music by H. R. Palmer. By per. 




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2 Long ago, in the valley so fair, friend. 

Far away by the beautiful sea, 
This pure Rose in its beauty first bloomed, friend, 
And it blooms still for you and for me. Refrain. 

3 All in vain did they crush this fair Flower, friend, 

All in vain did they shatter the tree ; 
For its roots, deeply bedded, sprang forth, friend, 
And it blooms still for you and for me. Refrain. 

'Written by the author on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. 

32 




1 U[LL ARISE AND GO TO MY FATHER." 



Philip Phillii 









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Par from home, yes, far from home, In sin and rags I sad - ly roam ; No ten - der love 

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2 Far from home and far from God, 
I feel the chastening of His rod, 
In feeding here among the swine, 
Refusing peace and love divine. 

Come home, &c. 

3 Far from home and far from Christ, 
His love so free and without price; 



13 



Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song Ministry, No. 2," 1876. 
33 



While here in wretchedness I roam, 
Far from God, and Christ, and home. 
Come home, &c. 
4 Quick to the banquet house repair, 
Thy Father stands to greet thee there; 
Come, now, behold His smiling face, 
He'll kiss thee with His pardoning grace. 
Come home, &c. 



ROBIN ADAIR. 



KlNGSLEY. 



Andante. 




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What made th' assembly shine ? 

Robin Adair! 
What made the ball so fine? 

Robin was there. 
What, when the play was o'er, 
What made my heart so sore? 

Oh! it was parting with 

Robin Adair. 



But now thou'rt cold to me, 

Robin Adair! 
But now thou'rt cold to me, 

Robin Adair. 
Yet him I loved so well, 
Still in my heart shall dwell, 

Oh ! I can ne'er forget 

Robin Adair. 



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NEARER, MY GOD, TO THEE. 



Dr. L. Mason. 



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NEARER, MY GOD, THEE. Concluded. 



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Though like the wanderer, 

The sun goes down, 
Darkness be over me, 

My rest a stone ; 
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Nearer, my God, to Thee, 

Nearer to Thee. 



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3 There let the way appear 
Steps unto heaven; 
All that Thou send'st to me, 

In mercy given ; 
Angels to beckon me 
Nearer, my God, to Thee, 
Nearer to Thee. 



4 Or if on joyful wing 
Cleaving the sky, 
Sun, moon, and stars forgot, 

Upward I fly, 
Still all my song shall be, 
Nearer, my God, to Thee, 
Nearer to Thee. 



These verses are very effective if sting as a solo to the tune Robin Adair. 



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STILL I AM SINGING. 

"HE will joy over thee with singing." 



Philip Phillips. 



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I. Still I am singing, Jesus, of Thee; Blessed Re-deem - er, so precious to me; Toiling in 



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Lifting the spirit, cheering the heart. 



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Blessed Redeemer, Hosanna to thee: 
Grant in Thy kingdom all may unite, 
Singing with rapture songs of delight. 



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LAY HOLD ON ETERNAL LIFE. 



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ETERNAL LIFE, MY CRY. 

D ON ETERNAL LIFE." 



Philip Phillips. 



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Oh, tell me how ! Oh, tell me where ! 
The way I long have sought to know; 
But fear the guilt and sin I bear 
Will sink me in the depths of woe. 

Evangelist. 

God's word will guide thee : dost thou see 
A light from yonder distant hill? 
On, Pilgrim, on! it shines for thee; 
With steady course pursue it still. Chorus. 

Copyrighted by Philip Phil 



ips in 
36 



Pilgrim. 

God's word will guide me : yes, I see 
A light from yonder distant hill; 
Oh, tell me, does it shine for me ? 
Hail, glorious light ! I will, I will! 

Pilgrim and Evangelist. 

Farewell, a long farewell to those 
Who seek to stay me as I fly ; 
My ears against their call I close, 
Life, life, eternal life ! my cry. Chorus. 
1 Singing Pilgrim," 1865. 




" TO DEPART, AND TO BE WITH CHRIST, WHICH IS FAR BETTER.'* 



Rev. John Parker. 



"I'm sweeping through the gate, washed in the blood of the 
Lamb." — Dying words of Rev. Alfred Cookman. 



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Philip Phillips. 



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i. I am now a child of God, For I'm wash'd in lesus' blood : I am watching, and I'm longing while I 




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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song Ministry," 1876. 
37 



/ AM SWEEPING THROUGH THE GATES.— Concluded. 



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2 Oh! the blessed Lord of light, 
I have loved Him with my might; 

Now His arms enfold, and comfort while I wait. 
I am leaning on His breast, 
Oh ! the sweetness of His rest, 

And I'm thinking of my sweeping through the gate. 



3 I am sweeping through the gate, 
Where the blessed for me wait ; 

Where the weary workers rest for evermore. 
Where the strife of earth is done, 
And the crown of life is won, 

Oh ! I'm thinking of the city 'while I soar. 



4 Burst are all the prison bars, 

And I soar beyond the stars : 
To my Father's house, the bright and blest estate. 

Lo ! the morn eternal breaks, 

And the song immortal wakes, 
Robed in whiteness, I'm sweeping through the gates. 



THE OLD SEXTON. 



Benjamin. 



Henry Russell. 




i. Nigh to a grave that was new-ly made,Lean'd a sex - ton old on his earth-worn spade ; His 




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THE OLD SEXTON. — Concluded. 



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2 I gather them in, for man and boy, 
Year after year of grief and joy ; 
I've builded the houses that lie around 
In every nook of this burial-ground ; 
Mother and daughter, father and son, 
Come to my solitude, one by one ; 
But come they strangers or come they kin, 
I gather them in, etc. 



I gather them in, and their final rest 
Is here, down here in the earth's dark breast. 
And the sexton ceased, for the funeral train 
Wound mutely o'er that solemn plain ; 
And I said to my heart, wh*»n time is told, 
A mightier voice than that sexton's old, 
Will sound o'er the last trump's dreadful din, 
I <rather them in, etc. 



39 




Out of love and compas-sion for me, for me? Out of love and compas- sion for me? 



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40 



SONG OF SALVATION. Concluded. 



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How he languish'd and died on the tree; 
But, then, is it anywhere said 

That he languish'd and suffer'd for me? 



3 I've been told of a heaven on high, 

Which the children of Jesus shall see; 
But is there a place in the sky, 

Made ready and furnish'd for me? 



4 Lord, answer these questions of mine; 
To whom shall I go but to thee; 
And say by thy Spirit divine, 

There's a Savior and heaven for me ! Chorus. 
41 



WHEN, WHERE, AND HOW SHALL I DIE? 

" IN SUCH AN HOUR AS YE THINK NOT, THE SON OF MAN COMETH." 



Philip Phillips. 



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2 When, where, and how shall I die? 

Will strangers attend me, or kindred be near, 
And voices that love me fall sweet on my ear? 
Or shall I alone through the valley depart, 
With none to support me or comfort my heart? 

When, where, and how shall I die? 
When o'er the dark river I pass from the shore, 

Go with me, dear Jesus, 

I ask for no more. 

3 When, where, and how shall I die? 
By illness protracted or hasty decline? 
Will pain, or tranquil departure, be mine ? 
Will reason forsake me or conscience be clear? 
Will hope or its angel of mercy be near? 

Copyrighted by Philip Phi] 



When, where, and how shall I die? 
Oh, grant that I may pillow my head on thy breast! 
Thou Guide of the faithful, 
And God of the blest. 

4 When, where, and how shall I die? 
Though solemn the question, the time or the place, 
'Twill matter but little, if God, by his grace, 
Will help me to labor, to watch, and to pray, 
And wait for his coming: I know not the day 

When, where, and how I shall die. 
One blessing I crave, 'lis the greatest of all — 
Prepare me for death 
Ere thy summons shall call. 

lips in " Song Ministry," 1873. 
42 




" GOD SO LOVED THE WORLD THAT HE GAVE HIS ONLY BEGOTTEN SON." 

, Voice, mminctandfnll. Philip Phillips. 

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Once was born a Son of Man ; 
He who never knew beginning, 

Here on earth a life began. 
Words of truth and deeds of kindness, 

Miracles of grace and might, 
Scatter fragrance all around him, 

Shine with heaven's most glorious light. 
In Gethsemane behold him, 

In the agony of prayer: 
Kneeling, pleading, groaning, bleeding, 

Soul and body prostrate there. 



Arranged and copyrighted by Philip Philli 
43 



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5 It is finished ! see his body 

Laid alone in Joseph's tomb; 
'Tis for us he lieth yonder, 

Prince of Life, enwrapped in gloom. 

6 But in vain the grave has bound him, 

Death has barred its gates in vain ; 
See, for us the Savior rises, 

Lo ! for us he bursts the chain. 

7 Hear we, then, this grand old story, 

And, in listening, learn to love; 
Flowing through it to the guilty, 
From a pardoning God above. 

Dr. H. Bonar. 

ps in " Song Ministry," 1876. 



THE PILGRIM'S MISSION. 



"LET us not be weary in well-doing.' 
Words by Rev. W. Morlev Punshon, D. D. 



Philip Phillips. 



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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Hallowed Songs," 1872. 

44 



THE PILGRIM'S MISSION. Concluded. 



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Seek those of evil behavior, 

Bid them their live to amend; 
Go point the lost world to the Savior, 

And be to the friendless a friend. 
Still be the lone heart of anguish 

Soothed by the pity of thine; 
By waysides, if wounded ones languish, 

Go pour in the oil and the wine. 
Then work, &c. 



Work, though the enemies laughter 

Over the valleys may sweep — 
For God's patient workers hereafter 

Shall laugh when the enemies weep. 
Ever on Jesus reliant, 

Press on your chivalrous way — 
The mightiest Philistine giant 

His Davids are chartered to slay. 
Then work, &c. 



Work for the good that is nighest; 

Dream not of greatness afar; 
That glory is ever the highest, 

Which shines upon men as they are. 
Work, though the world would defeat you; 

Heed not its slander and scorn ; 
Nor weary till angels shall greet you 

With smiles through the gates of the morn. 
Then work, &c. 



Offer thy life on the altar, 

In the high purpose be strong; 
And if the tired spirit should falter, 

Then sweeten thy labor with song. 
What if the poor heart complaineth, 

Soon shall its wailing be o'er; 
For there, in the rest that remaineth, 

It shall grieve and be weary no more. 
Then work, &c. 



45 



Rev. H. Bonar, D. D. 



OLD TIME IS FLYING. 

'•' COULD YE NOT WATCH WITH ME ONE HOUR ? ' 



Philip Phillips. 



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46 



OLD TIME IS FL YING. Concluded. 



2 Praise, brethren, praise, 

The skies are rending; 
Praise, brethren, praise, 
The fight is ending. 
Behold! the glory draweth near, 
The King himself will soon appear. 
Eternity, etc. 

3 Watch, brethren, watch, 

The year is dying ; 
Watch, brethren, watch. 
Old time is flying. 



Watch as men watch the starting breath, 
Watch as men watch for life or death. 
Eternity, etc. 

4 Look, brethren, look, 
The day is breaking ; 
Hark, brethren, hark! 
The dead are waking. 
With girded loins all ready stand — 
Behold! the Bridegroom is at hand. 
Eternity, etc. 



WATCHMAN ! TELL US OF THE NIGHT. 



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Higher yet that star ascends. 
Trav'ler! blessedness and light, 

Peace and truth its course portends. 
Watchman! will its beams alone 

Gild the spot that gave them birth? 
Trav'ler! ages are its own ; 

See, it bursts o'er all the earth! 



3 Watchman ! tell us of the night, 

For the morning seems to dawn. 
Trav'ler, darkness takes its flight, 

Doubt and terror are withdrawn. 
Watchman ! let thy wanderings cease, 

Hie thee to thy quiet home! 
Trav'ler! lo ! the Prince of peace, 

Lo ! the Son of God is come ! 



47 



JUBILANT SONG OF PRAISE. 



Words written by Mrs. James Havens for Philip Phillips, 
on his return from Singing "Round the World." 



Jas. C, Phillips. 



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I glorify Thee for the work I have wrought, 

In singing Thy love to the souls Thou hast brought; 

To nations benighted I spoke with my songs, 
But the praise and the glory to Jesus belongs. 



And when I have finished my last earthly song, 

When my heart is restrung for the heavenly throng, 

For ever my jubilant anthem shall be, 
My Savior, my Savior, I glorify Thee. 



48 



THE GUIDING HAND. 



"I WILL GUIDE THEE WITH MINE EVE. 



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Philip Phillips. 




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O Father, I am weary! 

Response — Child, lean thine head 
Upon my breast ; it was my love 

that spread 
Thy rugged path ; hope on, 
Till I have said — - 

Rest, rest, for ever rest ; 
Rest, rest, for ever rest. 

^N. B. — The Response and chant would be effective if sung as an echo, or from another room or gallery, just so as to be distinctly heard. 

Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song Sermons," 1877. 



My Father, it is dark. 

Respotue — Child, take my hand; 
Cling close to me, I'll lead thee 

through the land ; 
Trust my all-seeing care 
So shalt thou stand 

Midst glory bright above, 
Midst glory bright above. 



My footsteps seem to slide. 
Response — Child, only raise 

Thine eyes to me, then in these 

slippery ways 
I will hold up thy goings ; 
And thou shalt praise 
Me for each step above, 
Me for each step above. 



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49 



SWEETLY SOLEMN THOUGHT. 



Miss Phcebe Carey. 

Voice. Allegretto. 



" NOW THEY DESIRE A BETTER COUNTRY, THAT IS, AN HEAVENLY. 




Philip Phillips. 



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2 Nearer my Father's house, 
Where many mansions be ; 

Nearer the great white throne to-day, 
Nearer the crystal sea. Chorus. 



3 Nearer the bound of life, 

Where burdens are laid down ;~ 

Nearer to leave the cross to-day, 
And nearer to the crown. Chorus. 



4 Be near me when my feet 
Are slipping o'er the brink; 

For I am nearer home to-day, 
Perhaps, than now I think. Chorus. 



Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song- Sermons," 1877. 
50 




NOR THIEVES, NOR DRUNKARDS, SHALL INHERIT THE KINGDOM OF GOD. 



Recitative. 



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RENOUNCE THE CUP.— Concluded. 



2 And colder still the winds did blow, 

And darker hours of night came on, 
And deeper grew the drifted snow, 

Her limbs were chilled, her strength was gone. 

O God ! she cried, in accents wild, 

If I must perish, save my child. 

3 She stripped the mantle from her breast, 

And bared her bosom to the storm, 
As round the child she wrapped the vest, 

She smiled to think that it was warm. 
With one cold kiss, a tear of grief, 
The broken-hearted found relief. 



4 At morn her cruel husband passed, 

And saw her on her snowy bed ; 
Her tearful eyes were closed at last, 
Her cheek was pale, her spirit fled. 
He raised the mantle from the child, 
The babe looked up and sweetly smiled. 

5 Shall this sad warning plead in vain ? 

Poor thoughtless one, it speaks to yon ; 
Now break the tempter's cruel chain, 

No tnore your dreadful way pursue ; 
Renounce the cup, to Jesus fly — 
Immortal soul, why will you die? 



R. Heber 

, Allesr««to. 



SAVE, LORD, OR WE PERISH! 



Harvey C. Camp. 



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2 O Jesus, once tossed on the breast of the billow, 
Aroused by the shriek of despair from Thy pillow, 
Now seated in glory, the mariner cherish, 

Who cries, in his anguish, "Save, Lord, or we perish!" 

3 And O, when the wirlwind of passion is raging, 
When sin in our hearts its wild warfare is waging, 
Arise in Thy strength, Thy redeemed ones to cherish, 
Rebuke the destroyer — "Save, Lord, or we perish!" 

52 



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Mrs. Albert Smith. " IN H,M THAT soweth righteousness, shall he a sure reward." Written for Mr. Phillips, 

by S. J. Vail. 




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chaff; Let us 



find our sweet - est 



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day, With a pa - tient hand re - mov - ing All the 



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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Singing Annual, No 4," 
53 



1878. 



SCATTER SEED OE KINDNESS. Concluded. 



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Strange, we never prize the music 

Till the sweet voiced bird has flown 
Strange, that we should slight the violets 

Till the lovely flowers are gone! 
Strange, that summer skies and sunshine 

Never seem one-half so fair, 
As when winter's snowy pinions 

Shake the white down in the air. 
Chorus. 



If we knew the baby fingers, 

Pressed against the window pane, 
Would be cold and stiff to-morrow — 

Never trouble us again — ■ 
Would the bright eyes of our darling 

Catch the frown upon our brow? 
Would the print of rosy fingers 

Vex us then as they do now ? 
Chorus. 



Ah! those little ice-cold fingers, 

How they point our memories hack 
To the hasty words and actions 

Strewn along our backward track ! 
How those little hands remind us, 

As in snowy grace they lie, 
Not to scatter thorns— but roses — 

For our reaping by-and-by ! 
Chorus. 



ROCK'D IN THE CRADLE OF THE DEEP. 



WlLLARD. 



Knight. 




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1. Rocked in the era - die of the deep, . I lay me down . . in peace to 

2. And such the trust that still were mine, . Tho' storm-y winds . . swept o'er the 




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sleep; Se - cure I rest up - on the wave, . . . For Thou, O 

brine, Or though the tern - pest's fi - ery breath . . . Rous'd me from 



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''Play first four measures for introduction and interlude. 



54 



KOCK'D IN THE CRADLE OF THE DEEP. Concluded. 



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Lord! 
sleep 



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to wreck and death! 



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55 



THE NINETY AND NINE. 



I WILL HEAL THEIR B ACKSLIDINGS. 



E. C. Clephane. 






















Ira D. Sankey, by per. 


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I. There were mne-ty and nine that sale 



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ly lay In the shel - ter 

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2 "Lord, thou hast here thy ninety and nine: 

Are they not enough for thee?" 
But the Shepherd made answer: "This of mine, 

Has wandered away from me: 
And although the road be rough and steep, 
I go to the desert to find my sheep." 

3 But none of the ransomed ever knew 

How deep were the waters crossed ; 
How dark the night the Lord passed through 

Ere he found his sheep that was lost. 
Out in the desert he heard its cry — 
Sick and helpless, and ready to die 



"Lord, whence are those blood-drops all the way 
That mark out the mountain's track?" 

"They were shed for one who had gone astray 
Ere the Shepherd could bring him back." 

"Lord, whence are thy hands so rent and torn?" 

"They are pierced to-night by many a thorn." 

But all through the mountains, thunder-riven, 

And up from the rocky steep, 
There rose a cry to the gate of heaven, 

" Rejoice! I have found my sheep! " 
And the angels echoed around the throne, 
"Rejoice, for the Lord brings back his own!" 



56 




tm 



"the eternal god is thy refuge, and underneath are the everlasting arms." 

Tune and Fourth Verse and Chorus by Philip Phillips. 



=1=3= 



A 






1^1^ 



1. In some way or oth - er the Lord will pro-vide ; It may not he my way, It may not he 

2. At some time or oth - er the Lord will pro-vide; It may not be my time, It may not he 




IN 



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CHORITS. 



1 — * — * — p — I- 



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thy way; And yet in his own way, "The Lord will provide." Then, we'll trust in the Lord, And 
thy time; And yet in his own time, "The Lord will provide." 



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he will pro- vide; Yes, we'll trust in the Lord, And he will pro - vide. 



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3 Despond, then, no longer, the Lord will provide' 
And this be the token — 
No word he hath spoken 
Was ever yet broken — 
"The Lord will provide." 



4 March on, then, right boldly, the sea shall divide; 
The pathway made glorious 
With shoutings victorious, 
We'll join in the chorus, 
"The Lord will provide." 



Arranged from, and copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Singing Annual, So. 4," 1877. 

57 



CONSIDER THE LILIES. 



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CONSIDER THE LILIES. Continued. 



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CONSIDER THE LILIES. — Concluded. 



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was not arrayed, was not arrayed, was not arrayed like one 




WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO, BROTHER? 

"SAY NOT YE, THERE ARE YET POUR MONTHS, AND THEN COMETH HARVEST." 



ig^y^^g^ 



Philip Phillits. 



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Arranged from, and copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Musical Leave.;,'' 1864. 

60 



WHAT ARE YOU GOIXC TO DO ?— Concluded. 



te ^_j 5_j L_^ 



IIIKIIIS 



tast - ed the spark-ling \va - ter . . That flows from the fount of truth ? 



Is your 




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heart in the Saviour's keeping ? 



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Re-mem-ber He died for you 1 



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what are you go-ing 



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2 Oh, what are you going to do, brother ? 

The morning of youth is past : 
The vigour and strength of manhood, 

My brother, are yours at last ; 
You are rising in worldly prospects, 
And prospered in worldly things ; 
A duty to those less favoured, 

The smile of your fortune brings. 
Chorus. — Go, prove that your heart is grateful — 
The Lord has a work for you ! 
Then what are you going to do, brother? 
Say, what are you going to do ? 

3 Oh, what are you going to do, brother ? 

Your sun at its noon is high ; 
It shines in meridian splendour, 

And rides through a cloudless sky. 
You are holding a high position, 
Of honour, of trust, and fame ; 
Are you willing to give the glory 
And praise to your Saviour's name ? 
Chorus. — The regions that sit in darkness 

Are stretching their hands to you ; 
Oh, what are you going to do, brother? 
Say, what are you going to do ? 



61 



4 Oh, what are you going to do, brother? 

The tempter is near at hand : 
Look not on the wine that sparkles, 

Remember the great command. 
Go, not to the midnight revel, 

Nor join in the careless song; 
Beware of the wine that sparkles, 
'Twill lead thee to ruin and wrong. 
CHORUS. — The eyes of the angels in pity 

Are mournfully turning to you ; 
Then what are you going to do, brother? 
Say, what are you going to do? 

5 Oh, what are you going to do, brother? 

The twilight approaches now ;- 
Already your locks are silvered, 
And winter is on your brow. 
Your talents, your time, your riches, 

To Jesus, your Master, give ; 
Then ask if the world around you 
Is better because you live. 
CHORUS. — You are nearing the brink of Jordan, 
But still there is work for you ; 
Then what are you going to do, brother? 
Say, what are you going to do? 



THERE IS A GREEN HILL FAR AWAY. 



Mrs. C. F. Alexander. 
Andante moderate*. 



Ch. Gounod. 



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died to save us all ; 



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62 



THERE IS A CKEEX HILL FAR A WA Y. Continued. 



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died that we might be forgiven, lie died to make us good, 

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63 



THERE IS A GREEN HILL FAR AWAY. Concluded. 



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Recital Ive. 
|t V oice. 

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"THERE SHALL BE NO MORE DEATH, NEITHER SORROW NOR CRYING." 



William B. Bradbury. 



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have not where to lay my head; O! I am lone and friendless now." "Not friendless, child, a 

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From " Sharon " by Wm. B. Bradbury, by per. of Biglow and Main. 
65 



NO TEARS IN HE A VEN. Concluded. 




Friend on high, For you His pre-cious blood has giv'n; Cheer 



tear be dry, 



There are no tears, no tears in heav'n.' 




2 I saw a man in life's gay noon, 

Stand weeping o'er his young bride's bier; 

"And must we part," he cried, "so soon!" 

As down his cheek there rolled a tear. 

*' Heart-stricken one," said I, " weep not! " 

"Weep not! " in accent wild he cried, 

"But yesterday my loved one died, 

And shall she be so soon forgot ? " 

" Forgotten ? no! still let her love 

Sustain thy heart, with anguish riven; 

Strive thou to meet thy bride above, 

And dry your tears, your tears in heaven." 

3 I saw a gentle mother weep, 

As to her throbbing heart she pressed 

An infant, seemingly asleep 

On its kind mother's sheltering breast. 

" Fair one," said I, " pray weep no more." 

Sobbed she, "The idol of my hope 



I now am called to render up ; 

My babe has reached death's gloomy shore." 

"Young mother, yield no more to grief, 

Nor be by passion's tempest driven, 

But find in these sweet words relief, 

There are no tears, no tears in heaven." 

Poor traveller o'er life's troubled wave — 
Cast down by grief, overwhelmed by care — 
There is an arm above can save, 
Then yield not thou to fell despair. 
Look upward, mourners, look above! 
What though the thunders echo loud, 
The sun shines bright beyond the cloud. 
Then trust to thy Redeemer's love, 
Where'er thy lot in life be cast ; 
Whate'er of toil or woe be given, 
Be firm, remember to the last, 
" There are no tears, no tears in heaven.'' 




SWING LOW, SWEET CHARIOT. 



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Coming for to carry me home? A band of an-gels coming after me, Coming for to carry me home. 
Coming for to carry me home, Tell all my friends I'm com- ing too, Coming for to carry me home. 
Coming for to carry me home, When Jesus wash'd my sins a - way, Coming for to carry me home. 
Coming for to carry me home, But still my soul feels heav-enly bound, Coming for to carry me home. 



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from "Jubilee Songs," by pe:'. 
66 



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' COME UNTO ME, ALL YE THAT ARE WEARY AND HEAVY LADEN, AND I WILL GIVE YOU REST." 

Written and adapted by Mrs. M. S. B. Dana. 



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2. Flee as a bird to your moun - tain, 

3. He will protect thee for ev er. 



Thou who art wea-ry of sin; 
Wipe ev-'ry fall - ing tear ; 



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near thee; Call, and the Saviour will hear thee, lie on His bosom will bear 

fly - ing, Spend not the moments in sigh - ing. Cease from your sorrow and cry 



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67 



FLEE AS A BIRD.— Concluded. 



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Saviour will wipe ev'ry tear, The Saviour will wipe ev'ry tear. 







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REMEMBERED BY WHAT I HAVE DONE. 



Dr. H. Bonar. 



'LET NOT THY HANDS BE SLACK. 



Philip Phillips. 




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2 Shall I be missed if another succed me, 

Reaping the fields I in spring-time have sown ? 
No, for the sower may pass from his labour, 
Only remembered by what he has done. 



3 Only the truth that in life I have spoken, 
Only the seed that on earth I have sown ; 
These shall pass onward when I am forgotten, 
Fruits of the harvest and what I have done. 



4 Oh, when the Saviour shall make up his jewels, 
When the bright crowns of rejoicing are won, 
Then will his faithful and weary disciples 
All be remembered for what they have done. 



Last zierse by Phillips, 



68 



BEYOND THE SMILING AND THE WEEPING. 



Dr. H. Bonar 




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Written for Mr. Phillips, by S. J. Vail. 

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Be-yond the smil-ing and the weeping I shall he soon; Be-yond the wak-ing and the 



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sleep-ing, Be-yond the sow-ing and the reap-ing, I shall be soon. Love, rest, and home. 




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Sweet, sweet home, What joy it will be there to meet The dear ones all at home. 

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2 Beyond the blooming and the fading 

I shall be soon ; 
Beyond the shining and the shading, 
Beyond the hoping and the dreading, 
I shall be soon. 
Love, rest and home, 
Sweet, sweet home, 
What bliss it will be there to meet 
The dear ones all at home. 

3 Beyond the rising and the setting 

I shall be soon ; 
Beyond the calming and the fretting, 
Beyond rememb'ring and forgetting, 
I shall be soon. 
Love, rest and home, 
Sweet, sweet home, 
What bliss it will be there to meet 
The dear ones all at home 



4 Beyond the parting and the meeting 

I shall be soon ; 
Beyond the farewell and the greeting, 
Beyond the pulse's fever beating, 
I shall be soon. 
Love, rest and home, 
Sweet, sweet home, 
What bliss it will be there to meet 
The dear ones all at home. 

5 Beyond the frost-chain and the fever 

I shall be soon ; 
Beyond the rock waste and the river, 
Beyond the ever and the never, 
I shall be soon. 
Love, rest and home. 
Sweet, sweet home. 
What bliss it will be there to meet 
The dear ones all at home. 



69 



THE MARSEILLES HYMN. 



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Th' aveng - ing sword un-sheath! March 

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70 



THE MARSEILLES II V MX. Concluded. 




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2 Now, now the dangerous storm is rolling, 

Which treacherous kings confederate raise; 
The dogs of war, let loose, are howling — 

And lo! our walls and cities blaze! 
And shall we basely view the ruin, 

While lawless force, with guilty stride, 

Spreads desolation far and wide, 
With crimes and blood his hands embruing? 
To arms, &c. 

3 With luxury and pride surrounded, 

The vile insatiate despots dare, 
Their thirst of gold and power unbounded, 
To mete and vend the light and air. 



Like beasts of burden would they load us — 
Like gods would bid their slaves adore — 
But man is man — and who is more ? 

Then shall they longer lash and goad us? 
To arms, &c. 

4 Oh! liberty! can man resign thee, 

Once having felt thy generous flame? 
Can dungeons, bolts, and bars confine thee? 

Or whips thy noble spirit tame ? 
Too long the world has wept, bewailing 
That falsehood's dagger tyrants wield — 
But freedom is our sword and shield, 
And all their arts are unavailing. 
To arms, &c. 



71 




MRS. LOFTY AND I. 



Moderato. 



Asa Hutchinson. By per. 



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1. Mrs. Lof - ty keeps a car-riage, So do 

2. Her fine hus-band has white fin - gers, Mine has 

3. Mrs. Loft - ty has her jew - els, So have 
4 She has those that love her sta - tion, None have 



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I; She has dap - pie grays to draw it, None have I; She's no proud-er with her 

not; He could give his bride a pal - ace, Mine a cot; Her's comes home beneath the 

I; She wears her's up - on her bo - som, In - side I; She will leave her's at death's 

I; But I've one true heart be- side me, Glad am I; I'd not change it for a 



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coachman, Than am I With my blue-eyed laugh-ing ba - by, Trundling by; I 

star - light, Ne'er cares she : Mine comes in the pur - pie twi -light, Kiss - es me, And 

por - tals, By and by; I shall bear the trea - ure with me, When I die; For 

king - dom, No, not I; God will weigh it in his bal- ance, By and by; And 






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his face, lest she should see the cher - rub boy, And en - vy me. 

that He who turns life's sands, Will hold his loved ones in his hands. 

have love and she has gold;' She counts her wealth, mine can't be told, 

the diff'rence 'twill de - fine, 'Twixt Mrs. Lof- ty's wealth and mine. 




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72 



THE SWORD OF BUNKER HILL. 



Wallace. 

llcjrretto 



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1. He lay up - on his dy - ing bed, His eye 

2. The sword was brought, the sol-dier's eye Lit with 
3,"'Twas on that dread, im-mor-tal day, I dared 
4. "Oh, keep the sword ! " his ac-cent broke, A smile, 

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a sud-den flame; And 

the Brit-on's band, A 

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with a fee - ble voice he called His weeping son to him: 
as he grasped the ancient blade, He murmured Warren's name, 
cap-tain raised the blade on me, I tore it from his hand ; 
wrinkled hand still grasped the blade, Up-on that dy - ing bed. 



"Weep not, my boy! "the 
Then said : "My boy, I 
And while the glo - rious 
The son re-mains, the 




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I leave you, mark me, mark me now, 

For, boy, the God of freedom blest 

And twen-ty mill - ions bless the sire 



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sword of Bunker Hill, But quick-ly from yon antlers bring The sword of Bunker Hill, 

sword of Bunker Hill ; I leave you, mark me, mark me now, The sword of Bunker Hill, 

sword of Bunker Hill, For, boy, the God of freedom blest The sword of Bunker Hill, 

sword of Bunker Hill; And twen-ty mill-ions bless the sire And sword of Bunker Hill. 




SONG FOB. THE " GLORIOUS FOUBTH. 



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THE STAR SPAXGLED BAXXER. CoiithmtJ. 



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glare, the bombs bursting in air, Gave proof thro' the night that our flag was still there! 
chained -'ho our birth-right have gained, Wc will keep her bright blazon fur - ev - er unstained! 




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THE STAR SPANGLED BANNER. Concluded. 

On the shore dimly seen through the mist of the deep, 

Where the foe's haughty host in dread silence reposes, 
What is that which the breeze, o'er the towering steep, 

As it fitfully blows, half conceals, half discloses? 
Now it catches the gleam of the morning's first beam, 

In full glory reflected, now shines in the stream : 

And where is that band, who so vauntingly swore, 

'Mid the havoc of war and the battle's confusion, 
A home and a country they'd leave us no more? 

Their blood has washed out their foul footstep's pollution ; 
No refuge could save the hireling and slave 

From the terror of flight or the gloom of the grave. 

Oh! thus be it ever when freemen shall stand 

Between their loved home and the war's desolation; 
Blest with victory and peace, may the heav'n rescued land 

Praise the Pow'r that hath made and preserved us a nation. 
Then conquer we must, when our cause it is just, 

And this be our motto, "In God is our trust." 

Last verse written by Dr. O. W. Holmes. 



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Mrs. H. E. Brown. 



SELF-DECEIVED. 

Written and copyrighted in sheet music by Philip Phillips, 1875. 



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SELF-DECEIVED. Concluded. 




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"LOOK NOT UPON THE WINE WHEN IT IS RED. 

First Degree. 

My heart is light and free ; 

My step is firm and strong; 
I move amid the multitude, 

The happiest of the throne. 
The wine is sparkling red. 

Most beautiful to see ; 
They say it glitters to deceive, 

But what is that to me? 
Oh, I am safe! am safe ! no danger can I see ; 
The wine will ruin you, perhaps, but can not injure me. 

"DO NOT DRINK STRONG DRINK, THOU NOR THY SONS WITH THEE." 

Second Degree. 

I'm older than I was, 

I'm wiser now, to-day, 
Than last year when I danced and sang — 

The happiest of the gay ; 
My limbs are slightly weak, 

I tremble some, you see, 
And brandy need to calm my nerves, 

But what is that to me ? 
Oh, I am safe! am safe, no danger can I see; 
The brandy'll ruin you, perhaps, but cannot injure me. 

"STRONG DRINK SHALL BE BITTER TO THEM THAT DRINK IT." 

Third Degree. 

Carnival joys I prize, 

To drive dull care away ; 
And often quit life's busy round 

To cheer the long dull day. 
My brain is over-taxed 

With grave perplexity, 
A glass of whisky builds me up, 

But what is that to me? 
Oh, 1 am safe! am safe! no danger can I see; 
The whisky'll ruin you, perhaps, but can not injure me. 



"IT BITETH LIKE A SERPENT AND STINGETH LIKE AN ADDER." 

Fozt r lh Degree. 
Ah, nothing harms me now, 

All liquors tempt my thirst — 
Old ale, and gin, and rum alike 

Are good as wine at first; 
For drinking schc.ois a man, 

Sets him from bondage free; 
I'm not fastidious in my taste, 
But what is that to me? 
Oh, I am safe! am safe! no danger can I see ; 
Strong drink will ruin you, perhaps, but can not injure me.'' 

"THE DRUNKARD AND THE GLUTTON SHALL COME TO POVERTY." 

Fifth Degree. 
When I am asked to drink 

I never answer, No ; 
I can not purchase it myself, 

I daily poorer grow. 
My living all is gone, 

My clothes in rags you see ; 
I take whatever I can beg, 
But what is that to me ? 
Oh, I am safe! am safe! no danger can I see; 
The rags might frighten you, perhaps, but can not 
frighten me. 

"NOR DRUNKARDS NOR EXTORTIONERS SHALL INHERIT THE KING- 
DOM OF GOD." 

Sixth Degree. 
I'm safe ! But am I safe ? 
Oh! what is that I see! 
A yawning gulf before me lies, 

A drunkard's grave for me. 
For me! for me! Oh, save! 

Brave comrades, hear my call! 
Stretch out a hand to rescue me; 
I tremble! shiver! fall! 
Not one, alas, is safe! but all who take the glass, 
And drink the brandy, rum, and gin, shall feel its sting 
at last. 



77 



CHRISTIAN'S MISSION. 




T. C. O'Kane. 



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2 Brother, you may pray to Jesus 

In your closet and at home; 
In the village, in the city, 

Or wherever you may roam. 
Pray that God may send the Spirit 

Into some dear sinner's heart, 
And that in his soul's salvation 

||: You may bear some humble part, :|| 

3 Sister, you may "sing for Jesus," 

O, how precious is his love! 
Praise him for his boundless blessings 
Ever coming from above. 

Arranged from, and copyrighted by Philip 

78 



Sing how Jesus died to save you, 
How your sins and guilt He bore; 

How His blood hath sealed your pardon ; 
||: "Sing for Jesus" evermore. :|| 

4 Brother, you may live for Jesus, 
He who died that you may live ; 
O, then all your ransomed powers 

Cheerful to his service give. 
Thus for Jesus you may labor, 

And for Jesus sing and pray; 
Consecrate your life to Jesus; 

||:Love and serve him every day.|] 
Phillips in " Dew Drops," 1874. 




'LET not mine enemies triumph over me. 



James G. Clark. 



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THE PROMISE TIME TO-MORROW. Concluded. 




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Our birds of song are silent now, 
There are no flowers blooming, 

But life beats in the frozen bough, 
And freedom's spring is coming; 

And freedom's tide comes up always, 
Though we may stand in sorrow, 

And our good bark aground to-day, 

||: Shall float again to-morrow. :|| 

3 
Tho' hearts brood o'er the past, our eyes 
With smiling futures glisten ; 



Lo! now the dawn bursts up the skies; 

Lean out your souls and listen. 
The world rolls freedom's radiant way, 

And ripens with our sorrow, 
And 'tis the martydom to-day, 
|| : Brings victory to-morrow. :|| 

4 
Tho' all the long dark night of years, 

The people's cry ascended, 
And earth was wet with blood and tears, 

Ere their meek sufferance ended; 
The few shall not forever sway, 



The many toil in sorrow, 
The bars of hell are strong to-day, 
||: But Christ shall rise to-morrow. :|| 

5 
O youth, flame earnest still inspire 

With energies immortal, 
To many a haven of desire, 

Your yearning opes the portal ; 
And though age wearies by the way, 

And hearts break in the furrow, 
We'll sow the golden grain to-day, 
II: The harvest comes to-morrow. : | 



ERRING ONE AND EVANGEL. 



Bishop I. W. Wiley. "lay up for yourselves treasures in heaven." 

Tenor A Bass. Duett. 



Philip Phillips. 



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80 



ERR/XG ONE AND EVANGEL. Concluded. 



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beauties and glo-ries whose wealth is un-told, That are kept for the saints of His love ? 




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EVANGF.L. 



Erring One. 



Evangel. 



Erring One. 
Evangel. 
Erring One. 
Evangel. 



Erring One. 

Evangel. 
Both. 



16 



I would bnild me a mansion of stone, Evangel, 

Out of gems, clear and polished like glass; 
I'd surround it with lawns, and with trees and with flowers, 
With rich statues, pure streams, and with green rosy bowers, 

Such as nothing on earth could surpass. 

Have you thought of the mansions of God, Erring One, 

Which He builds for His children on high? 
Can you build as can He who hath made the great world? 
Or adorn as can He who the sky hath unfurled, 

And whose bounties all creatures supply? 

I would fill it with pictures, and purchase rare wines; 

I'd surround me with children and friends; 
And with music and song, and with dance would be gay, 
And would fear for no want and would dread no decay, 

And my pleasures would never have end. 

Have you thought how earth's riches take wings, Erring One — 

How our children and friends pass away ; 
How the strong man grows weak, and how pleasures grow stale, 
Or how beauty soon fades, and our senses soon fail, 

As we haste to that infinite day? 

I would seek the world's honors, and make me a name ; 

But your honor and fame would soon die! 
Can I claim nothing, then, Evangel, as my own? 
If you had all the world, nothing's yours, Erring One; 

All is His who doth reign in the sky. 

Can I have, then, these riches of God, Evangel, 

That honor those mansions above? 
God hath made them for you, and for me, and for all. 
Who before Him in faith, love, and duty will fall, 

He will raise to the bliss of His love. 
81 



LANDING OF THE PILGRIM FATHERS. 



Felicia D. Hemans. 



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2 Not as the conqueror comes, 

They, the true-hearted, came ; 
Not with the roll of stirring drums, 

And the trump that sings of fame; 
Not as the flying came, 

In silence and in fear , 
They shook the depths of the desert's gloom 

With their hymns of lofty cheer. 

3 Amidst the storm they sang ; 

And the stars heard, and the sea! 
And the sounding aisles of the dim woods rang 
To the anthem of the free ! 



The ocean eagle soared 

From his nest by the white waves' foam, 
And the rocking pines of the forest roared — 

This was their welcome home ! 

4 What sought they thus afar ? 

Bright jewels of the mine? 
The wealth of seas, the spoils of war? 

They sought a faith's pure shrine ! 
Aye, call it holy ground, 

The soil where first they trod ! 
They have left unstained what here they found 

Freedom to worship God. 



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I AM WAITING FOR THEE. — Concluded. 




2 I remember that voice, as it led our lone way, 

'Midst rocks and through breakers and high-dashing spray; 
How sweet to my heart did it sound from the shore, 
As it echoed so clearly o'er the dark billows' roar: 
2nd Voice. — "Come this way, my father; steer straight for me; 
Here, safe on the shore, I am waiting for thee." 

3 That voice is now hushed, which, then guided my way; 
The form I then pressed is now mingling with clay; 
But the tones of my child still sound in my ear, 

2nd Voice. — " I am calling you, father, oh ! can you not hear 

The voice of your darling, as you toss on life's sea? 
For on a bright shore I am waiting for thee." 

4 I remember that voice in many a lone hour; 

It speaks to my heart in fresh beauty and power, 
And still echoes far out o'er life's troubled wave, 
And sounds from the loved lips that lie in the grave : 
2nd Voice. — "Come this way, my father; oh! steer straight for me! 
Here, safely in heaven, I am waiting for thee.'' 



SINGING FOR JESUS. 



Philip Phillips. 



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84 



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2 Singing for Jesus glad hymns of devotion, 

Lifting the soul on her pinions of love; 
Dropping a word or a thought by the wayside, 

Telling of rest in the mansions above. 
Music may soften where language would fail us, 

Feelings long buried 'twill often restore, 
Tones that were breathed from the lips of departed, 

How we revere them when they are no more. 



3 Singing for Jesus, my blessed Redeemer, 

God of the pilgrims, for Thee I will sing; 
When o'er the billows of time I am wafted. 

Still with Thy praise shall eternity ring. 
Glory to God for the prospect before me, 

Soon shall my spirit transported ascend ; 
Singing for Jesus, O blissful employment, 

Loud hallelujahs that never will end ! 



85 




IT IS WELL WITH THE CHILD." 



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86 



THE DYING CHILD. — Co mimic J. 



2 She'll know me when I come, mother, 

She'll take me by the hand; 
We'll always be together there, 

In yonder peaceful land. 
And, Mother, we shall wear bright crowns, 

We'll be with Jesus too ; 
And then, before God's golden throne, 

We'll stand and wait for you. 

3 I like to feel your hand, mother, 

So soft upon my brow ; 
I always loved its gentle touch, 
'Tis dearer to me now. 



O mother, do not weep for me, 

I'm not afraid to die ; 
Your lip is trembling, and I see 

The tears are in your eye. 

4 Lean closer clown your ear, mother, 

My voice is growing weak; 
You're weeping yet, I felt a tear 

Just fall upon my cheek. 
My eyes grow dim, and, oh ! I hear 

Sweet music from the sky ; 
It is for me, I'm going now — 

Mother, dear mother, Good-bye! 



LEAD, KINDLY LIGHT. 



John H. Newman. 



Arranged from J. B. Dykes. 




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2 I was not ever thus, nor prayed that Thou 

Shouldst lead me on ; 
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Lead Thou me on. 
I loved the garish day; and spite of fears, 
Pride ruled my will ; remember not past years. 



3 So long Thy power has blest me, sure it still 

Will lead me on. 
O'er moor and fen, o'er crag and torrent, till 

The night is gone, 
And with the morn those angel faces smile, 
Which I have loved long since, and lost awhile. Amen. 




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Philip Phillips. 


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scenes that rose before us, Round a world of wonders while we pass a -long. Start-ing on our jour-ney 



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88 



SINGING ROCXD THE WORLD. Concluded. 



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O'er the South we journey, o'er its sunny regions, 
Drinking in its beauties — what delight is ours ! 
With its vernal landscapes Florida beguiles us, 
Florida our fathers called the land of flowers ; 
Stately pines are waving in the laughing breeze, 
Golden fruits are dropping from the orange trees ; 
All around is smiling, all of joy is telling, 
Every thing to charm us, every thing to please. 



O'er the Mississippi and the great Missouri 
We have glided onward 'neath the sky so blue ; 
At the grave of Lincoln, sacred to our nation, 
Saviour of our country, faithful, loyal, true; 
Over California, where for days we journeyed, 
Pleasant were the changes, rich in beauty rare; 
But Yosemite Valley rivals all description, 
With its falls majestic and their rainbows fair. 



Thro' a park we journey, spreading out before us 
Like a panorama — Yellowstone its name; 
See the geyser fountains into air ascending! 
Then again receding quickly as they came. 
Farms of finest culture, fields of growing wheat, 
Orchards, too, and meadows all around we meet; 
While the honest farmer, resting from his labor, 
Smiles upon the children gathered at his feet. 



Australia, England, Scotland, Erin, famed in story, 
Holland, France, Italia, where the poets dwell, 
German state and province, Switzers' Alpine country, 
Each in turn have bound us like a magic spell. 
Gazing on the mountains with the sunset glow 
Resting o'er their summits crowned with white and snow, 
What a sight imposing! what a sea of grandeur! 
With the roses sleeping in the vale below. 



We have been in Asia, through the many countries 
That to every Christian sacred still should be; 
We have stood in reverence where our blessed Saviour 
Taught the crowds that gathered, taught them by the sea. 
India's gentle breezes oft our cheeks have fanned ; 
We have seen the sand-storms in old Afric's land ; 
By the Nile we've wandered, where the rod of Moses 
Brought the plagues of Egypt, at the Lord's command. 



Time would fail to tell you more about our journey, 

We must end our travels woven in a song; 

We shall try to picture scenes the most attractive, 

Round the world of wonders while we passed along. 

Home again and happy, oh, how glad are we 

Those we left behind us once again to see! 

God protect our Union, God preserve our banner, 

Long to wave in triumph o'er the noble free. 



89 



ERE THE SUN GOES DOWN. 



Josephine Pollard. 



J. H. K.IRKPATRICK. 



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2. I must speak the lov-ing word Ere the sun goes down, I must let my voice be heard 

3. As I jour-ney on my way, Ere the sun goes down, God's commands I must o-bey, 

Ere the sun, ere the sun goes down, 






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THE MASTER IS WAITING. 



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Mrs. Annie Wittenmeyer. 



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3 He waits in the homes of the poor and oppressed, 

To lighten the burdens they bear; 
And brings to the weary and fainting ones rest — 
Go quickly, and meet with Him there. Cho. 

Arranged from, and copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song Sermons," 1876. 

91 



4 My sister, the Master is waiting for you ; 

He calls for the reapers to-day. 
There's work for each one of His children to do; 

Oh, haste thee! no longer delay. Cho. 



THE SOUL'S CRY ANSWERED. 



WINDHAM. L. M. 



" COME UNTO ME.'' 



Daniel Read. 



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2. My crimes are great, but don't sur - pass The pow'r and glo - ry 

3. O wash my soul from ev - 'ry sin, And make my guilt - y 

4. My lips with shame my sins con - fess, A - gainst Thy law, a - 



reb - el live ; Are 
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gainst Thy grace; Lord, 



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HOME PATRIOTISM. 



Fanny Crosby. 



" A LAND THAT KLOWETII WITH MII.K AND HONEY." 



Philm Phillips. 







Our country, un-ri-valled in beau - ty, And splendor that can not be 







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Roll on to the arms of the sea. 




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This arrangement copyrighted 1887, by Philip Phillips. 

2 Our country, the birthplace of freedom, 

The land were our forefathers trod, 
And sang in the aisles of the forest 

Their hymns of thanksgiving to God. 
Their bark they had moored in the harbor, 

No more on the ocean to roam ; 
And there, in the wilds of New England, 

They founded a country and home. 






95 



3 Our country, with ardent devotion, 

In God may thy children abide; 
In Him be the strength of our nation, 

His laws and his counsel its guide. 
Our banner — that time-honored banner 

That floats o'er the ocean's bright foam- 
God keep them unsullied forever — 

Our standard, our union, our home. 



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bucket, Sent a thrill no tongue can tell. Hush, my dear, lie still and slumber, Holy angels guard thy bed. 

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Arranged from " Dew Drops" and copyrighted by Philip Phillips, 1874. 
96 



THE CRADLE BED SONG.— Concluded. 



2 Though the house was held by strangers, 

All remained the same within, 
Ju^t as when a child I rambled 

Up and down, and out and in. 
To the garret dark ascending 

(Once a source of childish dread), 
Peering through the misty cobwebs, 

Lo ! I saw my cradle-bed. 

3 Quick I drew it from the rubbish, 

Covered o'er with dust so long ; 
When, behold, I heard in fancy 

Strains of one familiar song, 
Often sung by my dear mother, 

To me in that cradle-bed. 
* "Hush, my dear, lie still and slumber, 

Holy angels guard thy bed." 

4 While I listen to the music 

Stealing on in gentle strain, 
I am carried back to childhood — 

I am now a child again ; 
'Tis the hour for my retiring, 

At the dusky eventide ; 
Near my cradle-bed I'm kneeling, 

As in yore, by mother's side. 



5 Hands are on my head so loving, 

As they were in childhood's days; 
I, with weary tones, am trying 

To repeat the words she says. 
'Tis a prayer in language simple 

As a mother's lips can frame : 
* "Father, Thou who art in heaven, 

Hallowed ever be Thy name." 

6 Prayer is over — to my pillow 

With a good-night kiss I creep, 
Scarcely waking while I whisper, 

"Now I lay me down to sleep." 
Then my mother, o'er me bending, 

Prays in earnest words, but mild, 
-"Hear my prayer, O Heavenly Father, 

Bless, oh, bless my precious child." 

7 Vet I am but only dreaming, 

Ne'er I'll be a child again. 
Many years has that dear mother 

In the quiet graveyard lain. 
But her blessed angel-spirit 

Daily hovers o'er my head, 
Calling me from earth to heaven, 

Even from my cradle-bed. 



"Use the second ending for these two lines. 



Alfred Tavlor 



LET YOUR LIGHT SHINE.* 

"LET YOL'R LIGHT SO SHINE BEFORE MEN." 



Philip Phillips. 




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Burn-ing in the night. In this world of darkness We must shine, You in your small corner, I in mine. 



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Jesus bids us shine 

First of all for Him ; 
Well He sees and knows 

If our light grows dim. 
He looks down from heaven, 

Sees us shine, 
You in your small corner, 

I in mine. 



3 Jesus bids us shine 

Then for all around, 
Many kinds of darkness 

In this world abound — 
Sin and want and sorrow. 

We must shine, 
You in your small corner, 

I in mine. 



* This tune was first sung and taught to 3000 children, in the Town Hall at Melbourne, Australia, by Mr. Phillips. 

17 97 




' COMMIT THY WAY UNTO THE LORD." 



Written for Mr. Phillips by S. J. Vail. 



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FATHER, TAKE MY HA XD. — Concluded. 



2 The day declines, my Father! || and the night 
Is drawing darkly down. My faithless sight 
Sees | ghostly j visions. || Fears of a spectral band 
Encompass me. O Father, | take my | hand, 

And from the night lead up to light, 

Up to light, up to light, 
Lead up to light Thy child. 

3 The way is long, my Father ! || and my soul 
Longs for the rest and quiet | of the | goal ; || 
While yet I journey through this weary land, 
Keep me from wandering. Father, | take my | hand, 

And in the way to endless day, 

Endless day, endless day, 
Lead safely on Thy child. 



4 The path is rough, my Father ! || Many a thorn 
Has pierced me; and my feet, all torn 

And bleeding, | mark the | way. || Yet Thy command 
Bids me press forward. Father, | take my | hand; 

Then safe and blest, O lead to rest, 
Lead to rest, lead to rest, 

O lead to rest Thy child. 

5 The cross is heavy, Father! || I have borne 

It long, and | still do | bear it, || Let my worn 

And fainting spirit rise to that bright land 

Where crowns are given. Father, | take my | hand; 

And, reaching dowji,' lead to the crown, 
To the crown, to the crown, 

Lead to the crown Thy child. 



Phillips. 



I CAN NOT DO WITHOUT THEE. 

"without me ye can do nothing." Words and music by Philip Phillips 
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2 I can not do without Thee, 
Any moment at my side ; 
I can not do without Thee, 

Sweetly, Lord, with me abide. Cho. 



3 I can not do without Thee, 
Any moment of my way; 
I can not do without Thee, 
Lead me on to perfect day. Cho. 



Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song Sermons," 1875. 
99 




" FOR NOW WE SEE THROUGH A GLASS DARKLY, BUT THEN FACE TO FACE." 



Philip Phillips. 




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here we roam ; Life is but a changeful scene, Yonder is the Christian's home. Just beyond the 



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100 



HERE AXD THERE.— Conclmkii. 



2 Here we feel the tempter's power, 

Here we sigh for living-bread ; 
Clouds of gloom and darkness lower, 

While a rugged path we tread. 
There no cruel thorns are found, 

Doubt and fear and storms are o'er; 
There the fruits of joy abound, 

We shall hunger there no more. 

3 Here we breathe the sultry air 

Of a lonely desert plain; 
Trials here the heart must bear 

Worn by sickness, racked with pain. 



There the waves of death are passed, 
There, among the pure and blest, 

Safely anchored home at last, 

There our wandering feet shall rest. 

4 Here our fondest hopes are brief, 

Kindred ties are broken here; 
Morning brings a night of grief, 

Joy is mingled with a tear. 
There shall faith be lost in sight, 

There a long eternal day; 
Christ the Lamb shall be the Light, 

He will wipe our tears away. 



GUARD THY TONGUE. 

'THE TONGUE IS A LITTLE MEMBER, AND BOASTETH GREAT THINGS. 




Philip Phillips 



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Guard the tongue, And guard it wise - ly, Thence a world of e - vil springs; Tho' it 

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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Song Ministry," 1876. 

101 



GUARD THY TONGUE.— Concluded. 



It can cheer the sad and lonely, 

Like a beam of morning light; 
O'er a gentle, loving spirit 

It can throw a cruel blight. 
We have need to guard it wisely, 

And be careful what we say, 
Lest we harm an erring brother, 

Who may stumble by the way. 
Set a watch, &c. 

With the tongue we blend our voices 

In the melody of song; 
With the tongue we utter falsely, 

And we do each other wrong. 
Can a single fountain give us 

Sweet and bitter waters too ? 
Yes ! the tongue speaks good and evil, 

Though it ought not so to do. 
Set a watch, &c. 



4 How a spark of angry feeling 

It will kindle to a flame; 
We can chain the savage lion, 

But the tongue can no man tame. 
With the tongue we bless our Father, 

With the tongue His law profane; 
With the tongue we praise our Maker, 

And we take His Name in vain. 
Coda. — For of every kind of beasts, &c. 

5 Hush that idle whisper, sister, 

Think the Lord is standing near! 
Listening to each word thou speakest 

Of the souls to Him so dear ! 
Tell how firmly walks thy brother; 

All his brave and true deeds tell; 
Speak not of the past's dark errors, 

Tell not that he tripped and fell. 
Set a watch, &c. 



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STONE OF BEAUTY. 



" A NEW STONE WHICH NO MAN KNOWETH SAVING HE THAT RECEIVETH IT." PHILIP PHILLIPS. 



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i. He hnth giv'n me a gem, as a to - ken so rare, In my 
2. And oft when my day-dreams draw nigh to a close. And I 




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calm and so bright — No drift from the mount-ain was ev - er so white. 3. This 

left all a -lone, Which is mine when I gaze on my beau - ti - ful stone. 4. And this 



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em-blem of pu-ri-ty bears my new name, Which no one can read, tho' to me 'tis so plain; And I 
blest bond of union is prom-ised the same To all who will love and be-lieve on His name; Ah! 




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hope to pre-serve it as long as I live, For so pre-cious a gift none but Je - sus 
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can give. 
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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Standard Singer," 1874. 
103 



WE SHALL SLEEP, BUT NOT FOREVER. 



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"SOWN IN CORRUPTION, RAISED IN INCORRUPTION.' 



Arranged from S. J. Vail. 



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be a glorious dawn ; We shall meet to part — no, never, On the res - urrection morn! From the 



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mountain, Countless throngs shall rise a- gain. We shall sleep, but not for - ev - er, There will 



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WE SHALL SLEEP, BUT NOT FOREVER. Concluded. 



2 When we see a precious blossom 

That we tended with such care, 
Rudely taken from our bosom. 

How our aching hearts despair! 
Round its little grave we linger 

Till the setting sun is low, 
Feeling all our hopes have perished 

With the flower we cherished so. 



Cho. 



3 We shall sleep, but not forever, 

In the lone and silent grave; 
Blessed be the Lord that taketh, 

Blessed lie the Lord that gave. 
In the bright, eternal city, 

Death can never, never come! 
In His own good time He'll call us 

From our rest to Home, swset Home. Cho. 



COME UNTO ME. 



'COME UNTO ME 



AND I WILL GIVE VOL' REST. 



Philip Phillips. 



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Come to the mer - cy seat — why wilt thou stay? 



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"Conic, hcav-y la - den one, come un - to me." 



2 Come like the prodigal, He will receive; 
He will forgive thee all: only believe. 
Joy to the mourning heart He will restore; 
Turn from the path of sin, wander no more. 
Refrain. Hark! 'tis, etc. 



Linger not, linger not, come while 'tis day; 
Come ere the shades of night close on thy way. 
Life is a fleeting dream, soon 'twill be o'er; 
Turn from its fading joys, wander no more. 
Refrain. Hark! 'tis, etc. 



Arranged and copyrighted by Philip Phillips, 1SS7. 
105 



CONGREGATIONAL SINGING. (A Dream.) 



Verses to be sung as a Solo. 

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Philip Phillips. 

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— a — 

With - in 
They had 
A - long 



1. I dreamed and io ! 

2. My heart was full, 

3. The scene was changed 



'twas Sab - bath eve ; — 

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and as I passed 



a church I 
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time, The church of God 



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that ho - ly place 

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with mourning souls, The young and old were 

tion deep - ly moved Their ear - nest pray'r re- 

the self same hour, In loft - y strains to 



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in tones subdued, 
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Rearranged as a Solo and Chorus, and copyrighted, by Philip Phillips, 18 

106 



CO A 7 GREG A TIONAL SINGING.— Continued. 






Sing after first Solo verso 



WINDHAM. 




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O for a thousand tongues to sing My great Redeemer's praise ; The glories of my God and King, 

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The tri-umphs of His grace; The glo-ries of my God and King, The triumphs of 

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108 



JAMIE'S ON THE STORMY SEA. 



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2 Curfew bells, remotely ringing, 

Mingled with that sweet voice singing, 
And the last red ray seemed clinging 

Lingeringly to tower and tree. 
Nearer as I came, and nearer, 
Finer rose the notes, and clearer; 
Oh ! 'twas heaven itself to hear her — 

"Jamie's on the stormy sea! " 



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3 How could I but list, but linger, 
To the song, and near the singer, 
Sweetly wooing heaven to bring her 

Jamie from the stormy sea ? 
And while yet her lips did name me, 
Forth I sprang — my heart o'ercame me- 
•' Grieve no more, sweet, I am Jamie, 

Home returned to love and thee ! " 



109 



ANGELS EVER BRIGHT AND FAIR. 



Iistrgbelto. 



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AXGELS EVER BRIGHT AXD FAIR. Concluded. 



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Speed to your own courts my flight, Clad in robes of vir - gin white, Clad in robes of vir - gin 



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112 



MY AIN CO UX TRIE. Concluded. 






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2 I've His gude word of promise, that some gladsome day the King 
To His ain royal palace, His banished hame will bring, 

Wi' een, an' wi' heart running owre we shall see 

"The King in His beauty," an' our ain' countrie. 

My sins hae been mony, an' my sorrows hae been sair ; 

But there they'll never vex me, nor be remembered mair ; 

For His bluid hath made me white, an' His hand shall dry my e'e, 

When He brings me hame at last to my ain countrie. 

3 He is faithfu' that hath promised, an' He'll surely come again, 
He'll keep His tryst wi' me, at what hour I dinna ken; 

But He bids me still to wait, an' ready aye to be, 

To gang at ony moment to my ain countrie. 

So I'm watching aye, an' singing o' my hame as I wait, 

For the soun'ing o' His footfa' this side the gowden gate. 

God gie His grace to ilk ane wha listens noo to me, 

That we a' may gang in gladness to our ain countrie. 



WHILE THE YEARS ARE ROLLING ON. 



Harriet B. McKeever. 
Kecitante. 



Jno. R. Swenev. By per. 




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years are roll-ing on, Christian souls the watch are keeping, While the years are roll - ing on. 
years are roll-ing on; Time is fly - ing, souls are dy-ing, While the years are roll-ing on. 




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WHILE THE YEARS ARE ROLLING ON. Concluded. 




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While our jour-ney we pur-sue. With the ha - ven still in view, There is work for us to do, 
Lov-ing words a soul may win From the wretched paths of sin ; We may bring the wand'rers in, 




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Let us strengthen one another, 

While the years are rolling on ; 
Seek to raise a fallen brother, 

While the years are rolling on. 

This is work for every hand, 

Till, throughout creation's land, 

Armies for the Lord shall stand, 

While the years are rolling on. 

Chorus. 



Friends we love are quickly flying, 
While the years are rolling on ; 

No more parting, no more dying, 
While the years are rolling on. 

In the world beyond the tomb i 

Sorrow never more can come; 

When we meet' in that blest home, 
While the years are rolling on. 

Chorus. 



114 




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"LET EVERY THING THAT HATH BREATH PRAISE THE LORD. 



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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in " Singing Annual," 1874. 
115 



PRAISE THE LORD, O MY SOUL. Concluded. 
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Rev. Dr. H. Bonar. 



* WE'LL MEET AND REST. 

'AT thy right hand there are pleasures evermore. 



Philip Phillips. 



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I. Where the fad - ed fiow'rs shall fresh-en — Fresh - en nev - er more to fade; Where 

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( This arrangement copyrighted, 1887, by Philip Phillips. 
116 



WE'LL MEET AND REST. Concluded. 



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scorch -es; Where the star-beams cease to chill ; Where no temp - est stirs the ech-oes Of the 




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Brother, we 



shall meet and rest, 'Mid the ho - ly and the blest. 




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2 Where no shadow shall bewilder; 

Where life's vain parade is o'er; 

Where the sleep of sin is broken, 

And the dreamer dreams no more ; 
Where the bond is never sever'd — 

Partings, claspings, sob and moan — 
Midnight waking, twilight weeping, 

Heavy noontide — all are done; 
Where the child has found its mother; 

Where the mother finds the child; 
Where dear families are gather'd, 
That were scatter'd on the wild: 
Brother, we shall meet and rest 
'Mid the holv and the blest ! 



Where the blasted world shall brighten 

Underneath the bluer sphere, 
And a softer, gentler sunshine 

Shed its healing splendor here ; 
Where earth's barren vales shall blossom, 

Putting on their robes of green, 
And a purer, fairer Eden 

Be where only wastes have been ; 
Where a King in kingly glory, 

Such as earth has never known, 
Shall assume the righteous sceptre, 

Claim and wear the holy crown : 
Brother, we shall meet and rest 
'Mid the holy and the blest! 



; These beautiful 



were handed to Mu. Phillips by the author, Dr. Bo.nak, while at his home in Edinburgh, Scotland. 

117 




Moderato. 
Voice. 



' ESCAPE FOR THY LIFE. 

Henry Russell (revised and newly arranged by Philip Phillips. 



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LEAP FOR LIFE.— Continued. 



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high: There stood the boy with dizzy brain, Between the sea and sky. No hold had he 



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A LEAP FOR LIFE. Continued. 



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man could speak. The father came on deck, He gasp'd, "O God, Thy will be done ! " Then 







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A LEAP FOR LIFE.— Concluded. 



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Words by Mrs. Hemans. 
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"thy right hand, where there are pleasures for evermore." 

Written by S. J. Vail, for Mr. Phillips. 



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Copyrighted by Philip Phillips in "Song Sermons," 1876. 
122 



THE BETTER LAND.— Concluded. 

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fire-flies glance thro' the myrtle boughs ? Not there, my child, no, not there, Not there, my child, not 
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Adelaide A. Proctor. 
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THE LOST CHORD. 

(ALTO.) 



Arthur Sullivan. 



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I KNOW THAT MY REDEEMER LIVETH. 



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AMERICAN SONG MEDLEY. 



Written and copyrighted by Philip Phillips, 18 



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1. O the mingled strains that greet us As we journey thus along, 

2. We are rid-ing at our leisure, And the sky is ail serene, 

3. In the west the sun has fad-ed, And the bus-y day is o'er, 

4. "Down upon the Swanee river," "Massa's in the cold, cold ground," 

5. In the sil-ver moonlight streaming.O'er agrare where rests a form, 



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Thro' this grand and glorious country, In our char - i - ot of song. Now we hear a veteran's story, 
And we bring to mind the rivers, Lakes and Falls that we have seen. But we start as in the distance 
While a lit - tie group are gathered By a rus - tic cot-tage door ; And the evening star is shining 
"Ju - nia at the gate is waiting," Brings to us a pleas-ant sound. But we now re-sume our journey, 
That has borne her cross with patience, And has braved her latest storm, We behold the children kneeling, 



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And we feel its mag-ic thrill, As we list - en for a moment, To the "Song of Bunker-Hill." 
Comes a voice of freedom true, In a song our fathers cherished, 'Tis the old "Red,White and Blue." 
With its beams so calm and bright, While we hear in ten-der pathos, "Old Kentucky Home, good night ! " 
Till an - oth - er song we hear, That within our hearts will lin-ger, And its memory will be dear. 
And their teardrops fall like rain, But they know their sainted mother They will meet in heaven again. 




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From Sword of Bunker Hill. 
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132 



AMERK A .\ SONG MF.DLE ) '.— Continued. 







antlers bring the sword of Bunker Hill, But quickly from yon antlers bring the sword of Bunker Hill. 







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From Red, White and Blue. 

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Three cheers for the Red, White and Blue ! Three cheers for the Red, White and Blue ! The 






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Army and Na - vy for ev - er, 



Three cheers for the Red, White and Blue ! 



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From Stephen C. Foster's song, " Old Kentucky Home, Good Night.'' 
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"Weep no more, my la - dy, 



O weep no more to 



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sing one song for my old Ken-tuck-y home, For my old Ken-tuck-y home, far a - way. 



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133 



AMERICAN SONG MEDLEY.— Concluded. 

From Jubilee Songs. 

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We shall walk thro' the valley and the shadow of death, We shall walk thro' the valley in 






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peace, If Je - sus him-self shall be our Lead - er, we shall walk thro' the val-ley in peace. 



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Feelings long 



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How we re-vere them when she is no more, When she is no more. 




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'TIS THE LAST ROSE OF SUMMER. 



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i. 'Tis the last rose of sum - mer, Left bloom - ing 
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2. I'll not leave thee, thou lone one, To pine on the stem ; Since the 



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rose - bud is nigh, To re-flect back her blush-es, Or give sigh for sigh. 

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leaves o'er the bed, Where thy mates of the gar-den Lie scent-less and dead. 



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fond ones are flown, Oh! who would in - hab - it This bleak world a - lone? 



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THE IVY GREEN. 



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dain - ly plant is the i - vy green, That creep-eth o'er ru - ins old; 

he steal-eth tho' he wears no wings, And a stanch old heart has he; 

e ages have fled and their works dec.iy'd, And na-tions have scatter'd been: 



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right choice food are his meals I ween, In his cell so lone and cold, 
close -ly he twineth, how closely he clings To his friend, the huge oak tree! 
stout old i - vy shall nev - er fade From its hale and heart - y green. 



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How 
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moul-d'ring dust that years have made Is a mer - ry meal for him. 

joy-ous-ly hugs and crawl - eth round The mould of dead men's graves, 
state-li-est build - ing man can raise Is the i - vy's food at last. 



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136 



THE IVY GREEX. Concluded. 



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Creep - ing where no life is seen, A rare old plant is the i - vy green, 



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R. E. Francillon. 
Andnnte. 



IT WAS A DREAM. 



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2. I saw the wand'ring streamlet 



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sing A-mongthe pop-lar trees, 
flow Down to the cold grey sea, 



I heard the wil-lows whis- per ■ 
I saw the bending wil - low 



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ing 
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Un - to the eve-ning breeze, un - to the eve -ning breeze ; 
In welcome o - ver me, in wel - come o - ver me ; 



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138 



IT WAS A DREAM.— Concluded. 



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139 Petl. 



AGNUS DEI. 



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Philip Phillips, Jr. 



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1. Sweet 

2. The 



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love of 



God, 
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love ex 

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soul! 
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AGXUS DEI. Concluded. 




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hearts — Thou canst — and make 

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AGNUS DEI. 




1. Sweet love 

2. The love 



oth - er love ex - ceed 
dear, but Thou art dear 



Philip Phillips, Jk. 



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pu - ri - fy the sin - stained soul! Hear Thou our prayer while pain - ful - ly 'tis 
sum - mer is the joy of life; And ev - 'ry cross we bear still brings us 



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THE THREE WARNINGS. 



"AWAKE, thou that sleepest." 



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O slum - ber - er, rouse thee, de - spise not the truth, But give thy Cre- 

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tor the days of thy youth! Why stand - est there i - die ? the day breaketh, 



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see! The Lord of the vine - yard is wait - ing for thee. 



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power, Grant me yet an - oth - er hour ; Earth - ly pleasures I would prove, Earth-ly 






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142 



THE THREE WARNINGS. Concluded. 



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joy and earth-ly love; Scarcely yet has dawned the day, Ho-ly Spir - it, wait, I pray. 




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2 O Loiterer, speed thee, the morn wears apace; 
Then squander no longer the moments of grace; 
But haste while there's time, with thy Master agree, 
The Lord of the Vineyard stands waiting for thee. 

Gentle Spirit, stay, oh, stay! 

Brightly beams the early day ; 

Let me linger in these bowers, 

God shall have my noontide hours; 

Chide me not for my delay; 

Gentle Spirit, wait, I pray! 



Eleventh and last hours. 
O Sinner, arouse thee, the morning is past! 
Already the shadows are lengthening fast ; 
Escape for thy life, from the dark mountains flee I 
The Lord of the Vineyard is waiting for thee. 

Spirit, cease thy mournful lay; 

Leave me to myself, I pray. 

Earth hath flung her spell around me; 

Pleasure's silken chain hath bound me. 

When the sun his path hath trod, 

Spirit, then I'll turn to God! Knell. 



143 



CENTENNIAL SONG. 



"A NATION WHOSE COD IS THE LORD." 



Written by Philip Phillips, 1876. 



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hundred years or more, When our pil - grim fa-thers anchor'd on New England's rock-y shore; 
great and glo-rious day, When they stood, a might-y na-tion, and re 



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144 



CENTE VNIAL SONG.— Concluded. 




grandeur, cours'd our riv - cr> to and fro, For the mails were borne on horse-back in those 



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Still ad-vanc - ing and pro-gressing, what a change we now be- 
We can bid the lu - rid lightning, and it an - swers to our 



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1st time. 



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What a wondrous march of science does this mighty age un-fold ! 
But the beams of Christian knowledge shed the . . • . 



pur- est light of all. 






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Lo ! our commerce wide extending, we can traffic where we will, 
And our country's starry banner, see it waving proudly still! 
And our steamships o'er the ocean bring us all our heart's desire, 
And we talk with foreign monarchs by the telegraphic wire. 
While from China, Britain, Europe, we have workmen to employ, 
We extend the hand of kindness, and we welcome them with joy ■ 
We will tell them of the Bible, by its pure and precious word, 
We will teach them how to labour in the vineyard of the Lord. 



To our country's early history now we'll turn our eyes again, 
When the people sang together in a quiet, simple strain, 
In a church of humble structure, on a sloping hill that stood, 
With a grave-yard close beside it, overshadowed by a wood: 
Though the seed was sown in weakness, yet its great results we share, 
For the blessings which surround us, is in answer to their prayer. 
Now with all these vast improvements, and our banner wide unfurled, 
With a zeal that never falters let us Christianize the world ! 

145 



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"LORD, LORD, OPEN UNTO US." 



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1. Late, late, so late! and dark the night, and chill! Late, late, so late! But we can en - ter still. 

2. No light had we; for that we do re-pent, And, learn-ing this, The Bridegroom will relent. 



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D EPA RT FROM ME.— Concluded. 



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Have we not heard the Bride-groom is so sweet ? Oh, let us in, that we may kiss His feet! 



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147 



THE OLD ARM CHAIR. 



Cooke. 



Andante con espressione. 



Henry Russell. By per. 



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balm'd it with sighs ; 'Tis bound by a thou-sand bands to my heart, Not a tie will break, not a 



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link will start. Would ye learn the spell, a mother sat there, And a sacred thing is that old arm chair. 

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THE OLD ARM CHAIR. — Concluded. 



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2. I sat and watch'd her ma - ny a day, When her eve grew dim, and her 

3. 'Tis past! 'tis past! but I gaze on it now With quiv-er-ing breath, and 



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locks were grey, And I al-most worship'd her when she smiled, And turn'd from her Bible to 
throbbing brow,'Twas there she nurs'd me, 'twas there she died ; And mem'ry flows with la - va tide 




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bless her child. Years roll'd on but the last one sped, My i - dol was shatter'd, my earth-star fled ; I 
Say it is fol-ly, and deem me weak, While the scalding drops start down my cheek; But I love it, 



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learnt how much the heart can bear, When I saw her die in that old arm chair. 
I love it, and can not tear My soul from a mother's old arm chair. 



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149 



King's Garden. 



MY MOUNTAIN HOME. 



J. P Webster, by per. 



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O, how I love . . my mountain home, . its woodland hills and murm'ring rills, 'Twas there my 



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a-long its paths and o'er its hills. Ah ! 



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150 



MY MOL'.VTA/.Y HOME. Continued. 



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ill be - fell to shed a tear, . . . and point me to 

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a source of light. 



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were ev - er. ev - er flit-ting gai - ly, gai - ly bye. 

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151 






MY MOUNTAIN HOME.— Continued. 



- £ CHORUS Treble 



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Then give, oh, give me back my moun-tain home, its wood-land hills and 



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152 



MY MOUNTAIN HOME. — Concluded. 



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hills. Give, oh, give me hack my home, My own. my dear, my nn - live 

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153 



HE SHALL FEED HIS FLOCK. 



Ii»rtfliet to. 



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HE SHALL FEED HIS FLOCK'.— Continued. 










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HE SHALL FEED HIS FLOCK.— Continued. 



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HE SHALL FEED HIS FLOCK'. — Concluded. 



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157 



Be Kind to the Loved Ones at Home. 






Music composed by I. B. Woodbury. 






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158 



BE KIND TO THE LOVED ONES AT HOME.—Conduaed. 



2. Be kind to thy mother — for lo ! on her brow 

May traces of sorrow be seen ; 
Oh, well may'st thou cherish and comfort her now, 

For loving and kind hath she been. 
Remember thy mother — for thee will she pray, 

As long as God giveth her breath; 
With accents of kindness then cheer her lone way, 

E'en to the dark valley of death. 



3. lie kind to thy brother — his heart will have dearth, 

If the smile of thy joy be withdrawn; 
The flowers of feeling will fade at their birth, 

If the dew of affection be gone. 
Be kind to thy brother — wherever you are, 

The love of a brother shall be 
An ornament purer and richer by far 

Than pearls from, the depth of the sea. 

4. Be kind to thy sister — not many may know 

The depth of true sisterly love ; 
The wealth of the ocean lies fathoms below 

The surface that sparkles above. 
Be kind to thy father, once fearless and Bold, 

Be kind to thy mother so near; 
Be kind to thy brother, nor show thy heart cold, 

Be kind to thy sister sc dear. 

Comin' Thro' the Rye. 



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the lads they smile on me, When comin' thro' the rye. 
the lads they lo'e me weel, And what the waur am I ? 



I 




INDEX TO MUSIC 



Page 

Agnus Dei 140 

American song medley 132 

Angels ever bright and fair 1 10 

Be kind to the loved ones at home 158 

Beyond the smiling and the weeping 69 

Centennial song 144 

Christian's mission 78 

Come unto me 105 

Comin' Thro' the Rye 1 59 

Congregational singing 106 

Consider the lilies 58 

Coronation 108 

Depart from me 146 

Ere the sun goes down 90 

Erring one and evangel 80 

Eternal life my cry 36 

Father, take my hand 98 

Flee as a bird 67 

God knows it all 23 

Guard thy tongue 101 

He leads us on 24 

He shall feed His flocks. 154 

Here and there 100 

Home patriotism 95 

Home of the soul 19 

I am waiting for thee 83 

I can not do without thee. 99 

I know that my Redeemer liveth 128 

I'll tell them to be true 6 

It was a dream 138 

Jamie 's on the stormy sea 109 

Jehovah is marching along 14 

John Anderson, my Jo 26 

Jubilant song of praise 48 

Killarney 24 

Landing of the Pilgrim fathers 82 

Lead, kindly light 87 

Leap for life 118 

Let us try to make life pleasant 27 

Let your light shine 97 

Mrs. Lofty and 1 72 

My Ain Countrie 112 

My daily wants 31 

My mountain home 150 

Nearer, my God, to thee 34 

No tears in heaven 65 

Oft in the stilly night 18 

Old man in a stylish church 21 

Old time is flying 46 

Power of truth 8 

(160) 



Page 

Praise the Lord, O my soul ,. 115 

Prodigal child, come home 33 

Remembered by what I have done 68 

Renounce the cup 51 

Robin Adair 34 

Rocked in the cradle of the deep 54 

Save, Lord 52 

Scatter seeds of kindness 53 

Self-deceived 76 

Singing for Jesus 84 

Singing round the world 88 

Song of salvation 40 

Steal away 28 

Still I am singing 35 

Stone of beauty 103 

Sweep through the gates 37 

Sweetly solemn thought 50 

Swing low, sweet chariot . 66 

The better land 122 

The children's home 29 

The dying child 86 

The grand old story 43 

The guiding hand 49 

The ivy green 136 

The Lord will provide 57 

The lost chord 1 24 

The Marseillaise Hymn 70 

The Master is Waiting 91 

The model church 20 

The ninety and nine 56 

The old arm chair 148 

The pardon 15 

The pilgrim's mission 44 

The promise time to-morrow 79 

The rose of Sharon 32 

The soul's cry answered 92 

The Star Spangled Banner 74 

The sword of Bunker Hill 73 

There is a green hill far away 62 

The three warnings 142 

'T is the last rose of summer 135 

Twenty years ago 22 

~ Your mission 12 

Watchman, tell us of the night 47 

We shall sleep but not forever 104 

We '11 meet and rest 116 

What are you going to do, brother 60 

When, where, and how shall I die 42 

While the years are rolling on 113 

Windham 107 






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